Thai term for fuel filter?

[lostinisaan]

Every mechanic (and I use that term generously) that I've come across understands the Thai loan word "fil-der". Rising tone at the end, as in "eli-cop-der"

And your diagnosis of the problem could be a number of things so don't assume it's just the fuel filter. Could also be attributable to a clogged air filter, dirty/blocked injectors, worn out plugs, poor tuning/mapping, air leak in the injector rail.

+1. if they can't understand "filter" you probably don't want them working on your car.

Haven't found anyone out here who understands the word "filter" no matter how I try to sound it, and that includes the auto parts store and the (experience-tested) good mechanic. They do understand "krong/khlong" (pronounced somewhere between the 2).

I always say "Saghong nam Man Khuang" for oil filter and Saighong nam man Benzine ( Diesel) for gasoline will be understood by almost all.

Approved by my son.

[Gsxrnz]

Now, now.....be nice.

But it does remind me of a joke I heard as a kid back in the 70's.

Woman drives her car (a 1967 Ford Anglia) to the garage and tells the mechanic that the car runs atrociously and has done for the three weeks she's owned it. It jumps and leaps everywhere and also she says the fuel consumption is ridiculously high.

Mechanic hops in, goes for a spin, and the car performs beautifully. He tells the woman there's nothing wrong with the car at all.

Woman get's hopping mad and insists he checks again....so off he goes for a longer drive and comes back with the same report - the car is perfect.

This sends the woman into a frenzy, so to appease her the mechanic says "Ok Lady, you drive the car and I'll ride passenger to see what is happening".

He gets in the passenger seat, the woman gets in the driver's seat, she pulls out the choke knob on the dashboard and hangs her handbag on it.......

[seedy]

Nonsense posts Removed

the OP asked a question. If you can provide an answer, by all means do so and try and help her out.

any more posts which are Derogatory to the Gender, Age, etc of any poster on this thread will result in Suspension

[Ace of Pop]

Every mechanic (and I use that term generously) that I've come across understands the Thai loan word "fil-der". Rising tone at the end, as in "eli-cop-der"

And your diagnosis of the problem could be a number of things so don't assume it's just the fuel filter. Could also be attributable to a clogged air filter, dirty/blocked injectors, worn out plugs, poor tuning/mapping, air leak in the injector rail.

+1. if they can't understand "filter" you probably don't want them working on your car.

For fs sake dont mention Orange Peel

[Sheryl]

So Sheryl, I'm curious.

You mentioned in your OP that your car was slow to accellerate. But if you have a slipping clutch that is so worn that increased pressure on the gas pedal doesn't result in appropriately increased speed, then the engine should be revving its nuts off and the rev counter would be heading out the drivers door when you tried to accellerate normally.

And if you continually tried to increase the speed and the clutch kept slipping, there would be a noticeable aroma coming through the air vents. Ahhhhh, the delicious aroma of a burnt out clutch. Nearly as aromatic as an old two-smoker from the 70's.

Is this happening or did you fail to notice this symptom? Because if you had, we could have told you the Thai words for "clutch" instead of fil-der.

On the other hand, if you didn't hear noticably increased engine noise and a climbing rev counter (and the smell), then your mechanic's diagnosis is wrong.

It's been said by others but here's a short rundown to test the clutch your self.

Engine running on a level surface, handbrake off, engage 3rd gear, try to cautiously move forward by slipping the clutch moderately. If you are able to fully engage the clutch and the engine revs its nuts off and the car hardly moves and doesn't judder or stall - clutch buggered, plus it will smell sickly sweet.. If it stalls easily or judders forward and stalls, clutch ok. Repeat the experiment several times to get the feel of it.

Anyway, i'd like to know if you had incresed revs as i described earlier, because that will be the clincher for the diagnosis.

I can't do any tests now as left it at the mechanic's.

There was very noticeable engine noise but of course I was revving it as hard as I could in an effort to get it to accelerate.

Car does not have a rev counter. Only dials are the speedometer, the gas gauge and the engine temperature.

No obvious smell that I could detect and I think clutch not obviously burnt out as mechanic was unsure whether he needs to replace it altogether or not . Replace it as opposed to doing what to it, I am not sure, but he has always delivered the goods for me-- through a series of very old used cars -- at very reasonable cost so I have reason to trust him.

I did notice that it seemed to behave pretty much the same no matter what gear I used, as I tried staying in first gear vs. upshifting in an effort to find an approach that helped (I had to drive 3 hours, at night, home from Bangkok with the car in this state last night so got pretty desperate).

[1BADDAT]

So Sheryl, I'm curious.

You mentioned in your OP that your car was slow to accellerate. But if you have a slipping clutch that is so worn that increased pressure on the gas pedal doesn't result in appropriately increased speed, then the engine should be revving its nuts off and the rev counter would be heading out the drivers door when you tried to accellerate normally.

And if you continually tried to increase the speed and the clutch kept slipping, there would be a noticeable aroma coming through the air vents. Ahhhhh, the delicious aroma of a burnt out clutch. Nearly as aromatic as an old two-smoker from the 70's.

Is this happening or did you fail to notice this symptom? Because if you had, we could have told you the Thai words for "clutch" instead of fil-der.

On the other hand, if you didn't hear noticably increased engine noise and a climbing rev counter (and the smell), then your mechanic's diagnosis is wrong.

It's been said by others but here's a short rundown to test the clutch your self.

Engine running on a level surface, handbrake off, engage 3rd gear, try to cautiously move forward by slipping the clutch moderately. If you are able to fully engage the clutch and the engine revs its nuts off and the car hardly moves and doesn't judder or stall - clutch buggered, plus it will smell sickly sweet.. If it stalls easily or judders forward and stalls, clutch ok. Repeat the experiment several times to get the feel of it.

Anyway, i'd like to know if you had incresed revs as i described earlier, because that will be the clincher for the diagnosis.

I can't do any tests now as left it at the mechanic's.

There was very noticeable engine noise but of course I was revving it as hard as I could in an effort to get it to accelerate.

Car does not have a rev counter. Only dials are the speedometer, the gas gauge and the engine temperature.

No obvious smell that I could detect and I think clutch not obviously burnt out as mechanic was unsure whether he needs to replace it altogether or not . Replace it as opposed to doing what to it, I am not sure, but he has always delivered the goods for me-- through a series of very old used cars -- at very reasonable cost so I have reason to trust him.

I did notice that it seemed to behave pretty much the same no matter what gear I used, as I tried staying in first gear vs. upshifting in an effort to find an approach that helped (I had to drive 3 hours, at night, home from Bangkok with the car in this state last night so got pretty desperate).

a manual transmission car with out a rev counter? My automatic Honda Jazz has one.

[Sheryl]

Well, this one (2001 Honda City Type Z) doesn't. Neither did the car I had before it, a Nissan Sunny. Went through this with advice in this forum before and really, really looked. Not there.

But from the sound of the engine, definitely a lot of revs.

[cumgranosalum]

there is a huge difference between a slipping clutch and fuel starvation....I had a problem with my turbo a while back - loss of power, my usual chap drove the car and came back telling me it was the clutch.......that's the last time I used him.....I can't understand what he thought he was doing......the clutch needed replacing, we both knew that - but the difference between loss of power and a worn or slipping clutch is just so different as to be unmistakable....

I got the turbo fixed and changed the clutch about a month later...... I just couldn't believe that a guy who'd done such good work on my car before could make such a fundamentally flawed diagnosis.

[DavisH]

So Sheryl, I'm curious.

You mentioned in your OP that your car was slow to accellerate. But if you have a slipping clutch that is so worn that increased pressure on the gas pedal doesn't result in appropriately increased speed, then the engine should be revving its nuts off and the rev counter would be heading out the drivers door when you tried to accellerate normally.

And if you continually tried to increase the speed and the clutch kept slipping, there would be a noticeable aroma coming through the air vents. Ahhhhh, the delicious aroma of a burnt out clutch. Nearly as aromatic as an old two-smoker from the 70's.

Is this happening or did you fail to notice this symptom? Because if you had, we could have told you the Thai words for "clutch" instead of fil-der.

On the other hand, if you didn't hear noticably increased engine noise and a climbing rev counter (and the smell), then your mechanic's diagnosis is wrong.

It's been said by others but here's a short rundown to test the clutch your self.

Engine running on a level surface, handbrake off, engage 3rd gear, try to cautiously move forward by slipping the clutch moderately. If you are able to fully engage the clutch and the engine revs its nuts off and the car hardly moves and doesn't judder or stall - clutch buggered, plus it will smell sickly sweet.. If it stalls easily or judders forward and stalls, clutch ok. Repeat the experiment several times to get the feel of it.

Anyway, i'd like to know if you had incresed revs as i described earlier, because that will be the clincher for the diagnosis.

I can't do any tests now as left it at the mechanic's.

There was very noticeable engine noise but of course I was revving it as hard as I could in an effort to get it to accelerate.

Car does not have a rev counter. Only dials are the speedometer, the gas gauge and the engine temperature.

No obvious smell that I could detect and I think clutch not obviously burnt out as mechanic was unsure whether he needs to replace it altogether or not . Replace it as opposed to doing what to it, I am not sure, but he has always delivered the goods for me-- through a series of very old used cars -- at very reasonable cost so I have reason to trust him.

I did notice that it seemed to behave pretty much the same no matter what gear I used, as I tried staying in first gear vs. upshifting in an effort to find an approach that helped (I had to drive 3 hours, at night, home from Bangkok with the car in this state last night so got pretty desperate).

Hi Sheryl, I'm pretty sure your car has a rev counter. I had a 1998 honda city and it had one (the large dial on the left numbered 1 to 8). The problem does sound like the clutch slipping. I also had a manual but never had a problem with it as I sold it at 88K kms. It shouldn't be too expensive to fix and you can feel relief its not an auto now. They cost more to repair.

[IMHO]

Every mechanic (and I use that term generously) that I've come across understands the Thai loan word "fil-der". Rising tone at the end, as in "eli-cop-der"

And your diagnosis of the problem could be a number of things so don't assume it's just the fuel filter. Could also be attributable to a clogged air filter, dirty/blocked injectors, worn out plugs, poor tuning/mapping, air leak in the injector rail.

+1. if they can't understand "filter" you probably don't want them working on your car.

Haven't found anyone out here who understands the word "filter" no matter how I try to sound it, and that includes the auto parts store and the (experience-tested) good mechanic. They do understand "krong/khlong" (pronounced somewhere between the 2).

Unlucky - they are definitely taught the word in technical college.

[SantiSuk]

If you had it since new and its done 178k then you should probably change it anyway!

My Toyota Fortuner has a light that comes on after about 80k saying it's time for a new filter. Presumably the Japs don't rely on their customers taking their cars to an official dealer for service (as presumably the works manual would tell then to schedule it in at the right time). They must regard replacement of the fuel filter - and the cam drive belt (may have got the term not quite right), the light for which comes on at 100k as two sufficiently important pices of kit to price in a device to flag their renewal up. Both could leave you stranded somewhere if they failed due to ignoring the light forever.

My first filter change was when the car ran rough just shy of 80k. At the time I put it down to using cheap petrol/gas stations, but then a warning light that I had been blissfully unaware of (the petrol pump light for low fuel, only with a few dots underneath to depict $hit in the filter presumably!) came on for a second replacement at about 170k. Cost at Toyota the first time, when it was a standalone task was about 700 baht.

So why not use a main Honda dealer Sheryl? I know they can be a little more expensive since my wife has a Jazz and her service costs seem to be a bit more than mine, but it won't break the bank!

[Sheryl]

....So why not use a main Honda dealer Sheryl? I know they can be a little more expensive since my wife has a Jazz and her service costs seem to be a bit more than mine, but it won't break the bank!

Explained this in prior post. Nothing to do with money - it is the 3-4 day wait to even get the car looked at and problem diagnosed followed by as much as a week delay to get the work done. Always a huge backlog. I live out in the boonies and cannot go more than 1-2 days without a car as not even a 7-11 in walking distance here. In this instance, I have a trip to Rayong planned and paid for, nonrefundable. So have to get it done fast and the Honda dealer is the slowest option going. (In fact with Songkran would likely take as much as a month).

Just called mechanic - will not be ready tonight as hoped but he promises tomorrow AM. Says clutch was burned out & needed replacement but also 2 other problems. One was a leak in the radiator, which I believe as it kept running low on water,(though I never saw any puddles of water under the car, oddly). I could not tell what the second one was on the phone, sounded like "look ma" but obviously is not a baby dog or horse, so I don't know what it could be. Face to face I have him point out words on a list of Thai-English auto parts but on the phone, no way to figure out. Anyone have an idea what might sound like "ma" and be part of a car engine?

[canthai55]

How often do you have to top up the water ? If weekly and no signs of leakage around the engine, or hoses, or radiator, might be a head gasket starting to go. The water will seep from the coolant passages in the block and/or head, go into the cylinder or cylinders, and be burnt with the fuel. A leak down test will determine if it is leaking, and from where. But from your prior posts, from the back of beyond, finding someone who can do this may be a problem. Look Ma - no clue - sorry.

[Sheryl]

It is just recently that twice I found it to be almost empty. Unfortunately the gauge showing engine temp is broken so until car overheated I had no clue.

[1BADDAT]

It is just recently that twice I found it to be almost empty. Unfortunately the gauge showing engine temp is broken so until car overheated I had no clue.

it sounds like the fuel filter might be the last of your concerns...you may have completely cooked your engine.

[cmsally]

"Luk maak" should be part of the front axle . It normally seems to refer to the joints where the wheels attach.

Probably the most often heard word when a vehicle needs to be fixed in our household!

[Sheryl]

a manual transmission car with out a rev counter? My automatic Honda Jazz has one.

[canthai55]

Nice one Sheryl - to include your one satangs worth to the posters who doubted that you, the owner of the car, does not know what a tach is. Or does that coin live on the dash ! ?

[Sheryl]

Well "look ma" turns out to be "look mat" and as far as I can gather, is something under the car perhaps related to wheel alignment. (It's not on my list of Thai-English automative terms). Needed replacement but not, however, related to the acceleration issue which according to the mechanic was totally due to clutch.

This was the old clutch

With new clutch, acceleration problem totally resolved. However the clutch pedal feels odd to me, there is no resistance until it is about 2/3 the way depressed (at which point feels normal). Brake pedal feels normal and brake fluid level checked and full. It works fine, no problem changing gears (once I adjusted to the amount of foot pressure needed, which is much less than before)

What I get from Dr. google is that the parts replacement may have introduced air into the system and that the cylinder ior "cylinder slave" need to be bled which I gather involves jacking up the car and getting under it so will take back to the mechanic unless folks here think no need? There is normal resistance once the clutch is 2/3 depressed, it's the first 2/3 that feel like no resistance. Also that last 1/3 needs only very light push compared to what I had gotten used to, though what i had been used to may have been a clutch ion its way out.

If there is anything I can do myself on this, please advise as I really need to get going and will take time to go by the mechanic's.

[Sheryl]

Nice one Sheryl - to include your one satangs worth to the posters who doubted that you, the owner of the car, does not know what a tach is. Or does that coin live on the dash ! ?

Actually the coin was completely inadvertent, didn't even notice it was there.

But I think I would have noticed a tach, had there been one

[sotsira]

In reply to your clutch pedal query since the replacement clutch.

It's normal for the pedal to feel much lighter than before, due to the new clutch pressure plate.

The pedal travel will feel strange at first also due to the new friction plate being much thicker than before,

as long as the biting point (the point at which the clutch starts to take up drive) in the pedal travel

starts to engage about 2-3inches up from the fully depressed position (the floor) then everything is fine.

It wouldn't hurt though to have the clutch slave cylinder oil replaced and bleed out though in future, due

to the fact of the age and mileage of your car and piece of mind.

[cumgranosalum]

A new clutch will feel quite different and any subsequent changes are very gradual, which is probably why you didn't notice how bad the old clutch had got.

To make sure it is OK, you can do the handbrake test described above......and to check for clutch drag the car should engage gear when stationary with the clutch depressed without any clunk or crunch.

[Sheryl]

Thanks sotsira and cumgran.

There is about 2 1/2 inches of free play and then it starts to engage about 2-3 inches from the floor (a little hard to measure as it's on a slant, but seems to be about this). It does fully engage, just the first half of depressing the clutch meets 0 resistance.

Did the test of engine running with car still, put into 3rd gear and release clutch ---> it goes forward a slight distance then a little shudder and stalls. Which I gather is what it should do.

SO this means all good and I just need to get used to the new feel? It just seems so strange to have so much free play.

I gather it is possible to get the clutch adjusted to be a little tighter/start to engage sooner.. Is there any advantage to doing this?

[sotsira]

Adjustments can only be done to clutch pedals that have a cable connection to the pedal.

If it's connected hydraulically with master and slave cylinders then all that can be done is oil

replacement and a bleed out of air.

This is why i suggested previously, if your car has a hydraulic system for connection then it

would be a good idea to do, this mainly due to it's age and mileage.

[canthai55]

Adjustments can only be done to clutch pedals that have a cable connection to the pedal.

If it's connected hydraulically with master and slave cylinders then all that can be done is oil

replacement and a bleed out of air.

This is why i suggested previously, if your car has a hydraulic system for connection then it

would be a good idea to do, this mainly due to it's age and mileage.

The linkage which connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder can be adjusted. Had a new pressure plate, clutch disc, and throwout bearing installed. Clutch pedal had no free play when released at all. There is a threaded rod, with two jam nuts, under the dash where you can set where in the pedal travel the rod entering the master cylinder starts to move. This will ensure that you have 100% release when the pedal is out, and 100% disengagement when the pedal is depressed.

[sotsira]

canthai55, if your make and model is the same as the OP, then i stand corrected,

but i'm not aware of what system the OP's car has.

So generally speaking i would first replace the oil and bleed if the OP's system is hydraulic

before looking in to any adjustments, as that would usually rectify any excessive free play.

[1BADDAT]

canthai55, if your make and model is the same as the OP, then i stand corrected,

but i'm not aware of what system the OP's car has.

So generally speaking i would first replace the oil and bleed if the OP's system is hydraulic

before looking in to any adjustments, as that would usually rectify any excessive free play.

the hydraulic clutch system (master and slave cylinder) should not need to be bled during a clutch change. It's a closed system and air should not be permitted to enter. Only when replacing either cylinder should you need to bleed it.

[Sheryl]

It is cable, not hydrolyic.

I adjusted by turning this nut (instructions courtesy of EricThe CarGuy.com)

It now has about 1" free play which feels much better to me. Is this about optimum? Or does it matter? Seems to drive fine but I've only tested it for short distances. Have a long inter-provincial trip ahead so want to be sure.

[canthai55]

One inch is fine. Just as long as the clutch is fully engaged and the pedal has free play when released, and the clutch is fully released and the pedal has free play when depressed. Where it engages or disengages is up to you with this caveat.

[seedy]

Pic OK now ?