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Installing uPVC Wellington Windows and Doors in QCon 10 cm Blocks


carlyai

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I have one window installed using 3 inch screws and plastic wall plugs.

I used packing and screws, but Thai friends said to just cement the window into the blocks. Which is correct?

The upvc is about 1-2 mm thick. When you drill through that about 20mm you come to steel reinforce in the window frame.

Do I leave the 3 inch screw head counter sunk into the pvc channel, or continue on and have the screw head in the steel channel.

If I leave the screw head in the steel, I have to fill the hole in the pvc with silicon, but the frame seems more secure into the blocks.

If I leave the screw head counter sunk into the pvc it's not so secure.

Also, there are brackets on the window for mounting, but I took them off as not sure how you could use them with blocks.

I have attached some pics of the screws stopping at the pvc and at the inside steel strip.

Also a pic of the straps removed.

So question is, how do you install upvc products inti QCon blocks?"post-207577-0-78034700-1465528003_thumb.

post-207577-0-81731200-1465527943_thumb.

post-207577-0-88609300-1465528135_thumb.

post-207577-0-35434500-1465528188_thumb.

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Screwing through the frame is perfectly ok; as long as the glazing will hide the screws.

You can also use expanding foam thats a very common uk method.

I prefer the straps.i used these on my windows.

Just bend them and fix them around the window reveals. Three each side one at the bottom is fine.

Often no need to plug but just drive a handful of screws or masonry nails in.

The straps will be hidden with the render.

The strap you have appear to be ok but not as versatile as the QCon Straps here.

post-150623-14655290350385_thumb.jpg

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Thanks heaps eyecatcher. I have those straps that I use to tie in every 2nd course blocks to the piers.

Yeah the render will hid them.

Have to try with the next window.

the reason I said bang in a load of nails or just drive screws in is becasue those white plas-plugs do not work. they will not grip the white blocks......there are special steel serrated edged plugs for qcons but I cant afford them!

the beauty about bending 90 degrees is that even with 1 nail and 7 bent straps you will struggle to actually push the window out....and a rendered reveal will stop it moving t'other way

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You have to drill a whole all through the pvc and steel reinforcement, then lock it with a screw that sits on the top of the pvc profile. No need for silicone or other cover, as the closed window will hide the screw.

You can use a screw that holds only the lower part of the steel profile and uPvc profile, but it will be stronger when you use screws as long as the full size of the frame.

The problem will be to find screws that hold in the q-con. I assume there are special screws for that, same as there are for gypsum.

like in your first picture is the correct way. The spacing between your window frame and the q-con block you fill up with silicone, not cement.

Edited by Berty100
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About the plastic plugs.

I eventually found a thai and english installation guide for the QCon blocks. This was after I watched all the QCon videos. But they don't show window and door installation.

But, the guide does say you can use the normal plugs if the load is not too heavy. Can't find the QCon plugs anywhere.

So I drilled some small holes in the blocks and bangged in the plugs and they seemed strong enough. Can't drill a normal sized hole, but with a small hole Ok.

The QCon installation guide showed banging in the 3 " screws and banging in pieces of 6mm round pieces of reo. From the lintel into the blocks above the windiw openings.

Anyway thanks to eyecatcher I'm going to use the QCon straps and 3 " screws for the next window.

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Well I tried the QCon straps, but was disappointed, as there was too much play in the straps where they were fastened to the QCon and window frame.

Everytime I squared something up, something else would move just a mm.

Think I will now try the Thai way with the white cement in between the window frame and the QCon blocks.

I've used the white cement and it is so strong and workable, but never used it with windows.

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You have to drill a whole all through the pvc and steel reinforcement, then lock it with a screw that sits on the top of the pvc profile. No need for silicone or other cover, as the closed window will hide the screw.

You can use a screw that holds only the lower part of the steel profile and uPvc profile, but it will be stronger when you use screws as long as the full size of the frame.

The problem will be to find screws that hold in the q-con. I assume there are special screws for that, same as there are for gypsum.

like in your first picture is the correct way. The spacing between your window frame and the q-con block you fill up with silicone, not cement.

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Hi berty,

Trying another method.

If i drill thru the upvc and have the screw head inside the channel at the metal frame, and i see on utube there are these plastic but plugs (for small buts) that fit into the hole in the upvc. They are shaped like small mushroomes.

What do you think?

What does anyone think?

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Hi berty,

Trying another method.

If i drill thru the upvc and have the screw head inside the channel at the metal frame, and i see on utube there are these plastic but plugs (for small buts) that fit into the hole in the upvc. They are shaped like small mushroomes.

What do you think?

What does anyone think?

These are the kind of screws you're looking for, but don't hammer them into the block of course.

The bigger the wire the better.

Don't use cement between window frame and block, because uPvc expand at different rates as cement, and in no time the cement will come loose from the window frame. Use a good quality silicone instead.

KBRM_web-630x106.png

Or you can use these kind of plugs, if you can find them

A401%20Aercon%20Anchors.jpgmaxresdefault.jpg

Edited by Berty100
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Hi berty,

Trying another method.

If i drill thru the upvc and have the screw head inside the channel at the metal frame, and i see on utube there are these plastic but plugs (for small buts) that fit into the hole in the upvc. They are shaped like small mushroomes.

What do you think?

What does anyone think?

These are the kind of screws you're looking for, but don't hammer them into the block of course.

The bigger the wire the better.

Don't use cement between window frame and block, because uPvc expand at different rates as cement, and in no time the cement will come loose from the window frame. Use a good quality silicone instead.

KBRM_web-630x106.png

Or you can use these kind of plugs, if you can find them

A401%20Aercon%20Anchors.jpgmaxresdefault.jpg

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Ok i won't use cement between the frsme and the blocks and the QCon straps need the render to stop the window moving, so will go back to 3 " screws in the window frame but flush with the inside metal strengthener, and put upvc plastic plugs in the upvc part to hid the drill holes.

My 3rd window, should have it together.

Might use that expanding foam between window frame and block or silicon.

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All my sliding uPvc windows were installed by a professional team of window installers, and have 3 screws at top and bottom, and 2 screws at the sides.

Be careful with that expanding foam if you're not familiar with the use of it, as it may give you more problems than advantages.

The screws and plugs I pictured should be available at any decent hardware store.

The screws are screwed into the q-con without pre drilling.

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All my sliding uPvc windows were installed by a professional team of window installers, and have 3 screws at top and bottom, and 2 screws at the sides.

Be careful with that expanding foam if you're not familiar with the use of it, as it may give you more problems than advantages.

The screws and plugs I pictured should be available at any decent hardware store.

The screws are screwed into the q-con without pre drilling.

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I too used Wellington windows from Global House however I built using two walls with cavity, I made the hole for the window slightly smaller than the window and slid them in between the cavity which I then poured some concrete down either side .......they are never coming out, then rendered up the outside about 1/2 inch over the plastic............and now 3 years later no movement no cracks no "falling out render"

post-179032-0-83900700-1465709019_thumb.

post-179032-0-99103600-1465709411_thumb.

post-179032-0-36814000-1465709443_thumb.

Edited by kannot
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Hi berty,

Trying another method.

If i drill thru the upvc and have the screw head inside the channel at the metal frame, and i see on utube there are these plastic but plugs (for small buts) that fit into the hole in the upvc. They are shaped like small mushroomes.

What do you think?

What does anyone think?

These are the kind of screws you're looking for, but don't hammer them into the block of course.

The bigger the wire the better.

Don't use cement between window frame and block, because uPvc expand at different rates as cement, and in no time the cement will come loose from the window frame. Use a good quality silicone instead.

KBRM_web-630x106.png

Or you can use these kind of plugs, if you can find them

A401%20Aercon%20Anchors.jpgmaxresdefault.jpg

The bottom photo uses the wrong kind of "head" it needs to be countersunk slightly this "bolt type" will be no good.

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I too used Wellington windows from Global House however I built using two walls with cavity, I made the hole for the window slightly smaller than the window and slid them in between the cavity which I then poured some concrete down either side .......they are never coming out, then rendered up the outside about 1/2 inch over the plastic............and now 3 years later no movement no cracks no "falling out render"

Hinges on the outside ?

I guess burglars like the Wellington windows.

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I too used Wellington windows from Global House however I built using two walls with cavity, I made the hole for the window slightly smaller than the window and slid them in between the cavity which I then poured some concrete down either side .......they are never coming out, then rendered up the outside about 1/2 inch over the plastic............and now 3 years later no movement no cracks no "falling out render"

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I too used Wellington windows from Global House however I built using two walls with cavity, I made the hole for the window slightly smaller than the window and slid them in between the cavity which I then poured some concrete down either side .......they are never coming out, then rendered up the outside about 1/2 inch over the plastic............and now 3 years later no movement no cracks no "falling out render"

Hinges on the outside ?

I guess burglars like the Wellington windows.

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Berty,

Thanks for your replies before, but you don't need to critisize a poster who is trying to give me advice.

If you've lived here on and off for 30 years, you would know that them's thiefs can get in anywhere. ?

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I too used Wellington windows from Global House however I built using two walls with cavity, I made the hole for the window slightly smaller than the window and slid them in between the cavity which I then poured some concrete down either side .......they are never coming out, then rendered up the outside about 1/2 inch over the plastic............and now 3 years later no movement no cracks no "falling out render"

Hinges on the outside ?

I guess burglars like the Wellington windows.

It REALLY doesnt matter when a brick will fix the glass in seconds.......if you think about it

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Berty,

Thanks for your replies before, but you don't need to critisize a poster who is trying to give me advice.

If you've lived here on and off for 30 years, you would know that them's thiefs can get in anywhere. ?

I've lived here permanently for close to 30 years, not on and off, and hinges on the outside is the same a leaving your key outside of the door.

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Berty,

Thanks for your replies before, but you don't need to critisize a poster who is trying to give me advice.

If you've lived here on and off for 30 years, you would know that them's thiefs can get in anywhere. ?

I've lived here permanently for close to 30 years, not on and off, and hinges on the outside is the same a leaving your key outside of the door.

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