Sound Systems

[ahddub]

I've been disappointed with the sound of the "off the shelf" stereo systems (Sony, Panasonic, etc.), and I'm strictly a "user", not a hi-fi engineer. Back home, I could look at the "User Reviews" magazines, but here in Thailand I'm at a loss as to how to go about putting together a decent sounding system from locally (outside BKK) available components. I've seen the name "Magnet" mentioned, but that's as far as I've gotten. Clues to "white box", as well as brand names, would be appreciated.

[elkangorito]

I've been disappointed with the sound of the "off the shelf" stereo systems (Sony, Panasonic, etc.), and I'm strictly a "user", not a hi-fi engineer. Back home, I could look at the "User Reviews" magazines, but here in Thailand I'm at a loss as to how to go about putting together a decent sounding system from locally (outside BKK) available components. I've seen the name "Magnet" mentioned, but that's as far as I've gotten. Clues to "white box", as well as brand names, would be appreciated.

I think that it's always a mistake to just buy a "brand" without actually knowing if its' pieces are compatible or not.

For example, too much power into your speakers will blow the crap out of 'em...so how much is too much?

Very easy. First, 40 Watts RMS per channel is enough to blow the windows & doors off your house, so don't fall for the '200 Watts per channel' unit. Your eardrums wouldn't last 2 seconds at full volume...IF the speakers COULD cope.

When selecting speakers, the impedance MUST be matched to that of the output of the amplifier (ie 4 ohms to 4 ohms). Next, find out the maximum RMS output (per channel) of the amplifier (measured in Watts). Words such as 'nominal' & 'average' don't mean much in the audio world. If the RMS value is not available but a 'Peak' value is, multiply the peak value by 0.707 to obtain the RMS value.

After finding out the maximum per channel RMS output of the amplifier, select a speaker that is approx. 20% higher in power consumption. Example - max. RMS amplifier output (per channel) = 50 Watts. 20% of 50 = 10. 50 Watts + 10 Watts = 60 Watts RMS maximum speaker input power.

The "latest" is not necessarily the greatest. If you just want a good sound without paying an arm & a leg, stick with a standard MOSFET amp. These amps have very low distortion characteristics (0.05% THD) & are quite cheap. If you want better quality than this, a DC to DC converter (power supply) will virtually eliminate all noise from the electricity supply.

Try to buy amplifiers that are enclosed in a metal case (shielding), & then ensure that the case is earthed.

[pumper]

Angelic Audio on Sukhumvet near Soi 30, 2 blocks down from the Emporium, has equipment to dream of.

need directions? (02) 661-2853 -4

speakers & amps, stereo & 5 channel.

take a favorite CD in for an audition.

I auditioned the new Mark Knophler, (sp? dire straits), CD on their equipment ..

they give you the remote control & you sit on a comfy couch ..

they also have some demo CDs if you do not want to carry 1 in.

they have a 5 channel DVD movie audition room w/ large screen TV also, I did not try

[astral]

First, 40 Watts RMS per channel is enough to blow the windows & doors off your house, so don't fall for the '200 Watts per channel' unit. Your eardrums wouldn't last 2 seconds at full volume...IF the speakers COULD cope.

I disagree with that statement.

If you want to want to listen to Classical Music , or watch a film with a good dynamic range then you need

an amplifier that can deliver the current for those peaks. My 100W Audiolab monoblocks will give 40A at peak.

Without the power capacity the amp will be overdriven on the peaks and start cutting, with resultant distortion.

If you do cut corners on the power, then you need to make it up with very efficient speakers.

[pumper]

the most critical part of the sound per watt is speaker efficiency.

3db = 100% louder / more efficient

85 DB 1 watt per meter = 50% loudness of 88 DB @ 1 watt 1 meter .. 25% 91 DB 1w 1m .. 12% 94 db 1w 1m

a speaker w/ 85 DB 1 w 1 m will produce a very small fraction the sound level a speaker w/ 94 db 1w 1m.

in the '80s I had a 15" JBL pro system in my living room that was 100 db 1 watt 1 m .. 20 watts would blow you out of the room, literally .. at 35 watts would be clear far down the block

my current system is 87 db 1w 1m & 100 watts RMS is tolerable, unfortunately 100w is all I have .. I throw / blow the (JUNK) Pioneer amps internal circuit breaker on a regular basis

the speaker is the critical component to sound quality & DB levels.

why worry about .5% THD in the amp with less than the best speakers?

IMHO a 'cheap amp' w/ good speakers is better than an esoteric amp w/ low end speakers.

a 21 st century 'watt rating' is very different from a 20th century 'watt rating'.

new amps are circuit board intensive & light compared to the old / heavy amps.

why, power supplies are large & heavy .. a light amp cannot produce sustained high RMS watts.

my 100 w per channel pioneer will play loud for 3 - 5 minutes, then 'pop' / silence / reboot..

power supply cannot handle sustained high watt output.

[Fun2Fun]

I've been disappointed with the sound of the "off the shelf" stereo systems (Sony, Panasonic, etc.), and I'm strictly a "user", not a hi-fi engineer. Back home, I could look at the "User Reviews" magazines, but here in Thailand I'm at a loss as to how to go about putting together a decent sounding system from locally (outside BKK) available components. I've seen the name "Magnet" mentioned, but that's as far as I've gotten. Clues to "white box", as well as brand names, would be appreciated.

You can still use those magazines , the same brands are available at shops here in Bangkok.

Try in Fortune Town (Din Dang) or in the hi-fi mall behind the Big-C across the street from World Trade Center/Isetan or in PowerBuy in World Trade or Powerbuy Siam Paragon.

Edited December 29, 2006 by Fun2Fun

[ltdknowledge]

It's all to do with heat. The more heat the device produces (devices being the Amp, spk etc) the less efficient the system will be. Some of the above is correct analytically but audibly it can be a totaly different matter. Take some valve amplifier for instance. They can have plenty of distortion analytically, but audibly can sound superb with very efficient speakers. The old rule still applies and that is to just listen.

I have owned many esoteric hifi system from mid priced Audio alchemy & Audiolab to my current system which is Chord Electronics with Wilson Benech speakers. This system to me sounds fantastic but my friend who has a Audio Note system finds it to revealing.

One thing i will say is the system i own would cost you around £40,000 fortunately i was in the trade and didn't pay that and wouldn't have been able to afford it, but technology has moved on and i have heard budget system than makes you wonder why this stuff can be so expensive.

At the end of the day it all comes down to enjoying the music instead of thinking about the hifi. I dealt with hifi freaks that needed putting down, some were even worried that there left speaker cable were a few mms longer than the right. I also have a multi-room audio sytem distributed around my home with ceiling and wall speakers. Hifi snobbs will turn thier noses up at this idea but i enjoy the music through this far more than any of the high end hifi i had, including the Chord System

Simple, let your ears be the judge, not the brand, or the spec. If you start to worry about spec, you will forget about the music.

Edited December 29, 2006 by ltdknowledge

[elkangorito]

First, 40 Watts RMS per channel is enough to blow the windows & doors off your house, so don't fall for the '200 Watts per channel' unit. Your eardrums wouldn't last 2 seconds at full volume...IF the speakers COULD cope.

I disagree with that statement.

If you want to want to listen to Classical Music , or watch a film with a good dynamic range then you need

an amplifier that can deliver the current for those peaks. My 100W Audiolab monoblocks will give 40A at peak. When a power rating is stated, it is related to impedance, voltage & current. If this figure of 40 amps is true, the coil wire in your speakers & to your speakers from your amplifier, would need to be at least 4 millimetres squared (assuming that you have "moving coil" speakers). This sounds like one of those "manipulated" figures to make the equipment seem better than what it really is....a marketing ploy.

Without the power capacity the amp will be overdriven on the peaks and start cutting, with resultant distortion. Without the power capacity of what? If the speakers are too small for the output of the amp, you will most likely blow the speakers. If the speakers have a higher "input power rating" compared to the "output power rating" of the amp, NOTHING will happen to the speakers. As a matter of fact, they will lead a long & easy life.

If you do cut corners on the power, then you need to make it up with very efficient speakers. Complete humbug.

the most critical part of the sound per watt is speaker efficiency.

3db = 100% louder / more efficient

85 DB 1 watt per meter = 50% loudness of 88 DB @ 1 watt 1 meter .. 25% 91 DB 1w 1m .. 12% 94 db 1w 1m

a speaker w/ 85 DB 1 w 1 m will produce a very small fraction the sound level a speaker w/ 94 db 1w 1m.

in the '80s I had a 15" JBL pro system in my living room that was 100 db 1 watt 1 m .. 20 watts would blow you out of the room, literally .. at 35 watts would be clear far down the block

my current system is 87 db 1w 1m & 100 watts RMS is tolerable, unfortunately 100w is all I have .. I throw / blow the (JUNK) Pioneer amps internal circuit breaker on a regular basis

the speaker is the critical component to sound quality & DB levels.

why worry about .5% THD in the amp with less than the best speakers? This figure (0.05%) just happens to be a "standard" performance specification for most MOSFET amps. You don't request it...it is "standard".

IMHO a 'cheap amp' w/ good speakers is better than an esoteric amp w/ low end speakers.

a 21 st century 'watt rating' is very different from a 20th century 'watt rating'.

new amps are circuit board intensive & light compared to the old / heavy amps.

why, power supplies are large & heavy .. a light amp cannot produce sustained high RMS watts. Is power supply performance directly related to weight? If this is the case, how will my 2.25 kg power supply perform? Or will I need a 3.5 kg supply?

my 100 w per channel pioneer will play loud for 3 - 5 minutes, then 'pop' / silence / reboot..

power supply cannot handle sustained high watt output. Clearly, there is a problem with your system...a fault. Maybe fatter electricity will help to increase the weight of your power supply & then all this "popping" might stop?

[redwood13]

I've been disappointed with the sound of the "off the shelf" stereo systems (Sony, Panasonic, etc.), and I'm strictly a "user", not a hi-fi engineer. Back home, I could look at the "User Reviews" magazines, but here in Thailand I'm at a loss as to how to go about putting together a decent sounding system from locally (outside BKK) available components. I've seen the name "Magnet" mentioned, but that's as far as I've gotten. Clues to "white box", as well as brand names, would be appreciated.

Outside Bangkok, good luck! I live in Pattaya and there's nothing here beyond the usual consumer brands. You're really going to have make a trip to Bangkok.

Re brands, you can search manufacturer's websites and look for Bangkok dealers – this doesn’t of course mean the dealer actually has anything in stock. And you can search for reviews of specific items on the net. Many of the brands here, especially on the lower end of the price scale, are going to be sourced from the UK or Europe rather than the US.

NAD, Denon, Rega, Onkyo, Rotel, JBL, Paradigm, Marantz, Epos, Mission, AE, B&W, Triangle, Nakamichi, Rotel, etc. are just some of brands that I’ve seen here.

The Emporium and Central Dept. Store are both worth a look. Also have a look at: http://www.norh.com

-redwood

[ltdknowledge]

If you do decide you want a brand such as the above, let me know as i deal in the above plus many more, Lexicon, Revel, Primare, REL, Myriad to mention a few.

[CarlBkk]

If you do decide you want a brand such as the above, let me know as i deal in the above plus many more, Lexicon, Revel, Primare, REL, Myriad to mention a few.

Do you live in BKK ltdknowledge? If so, I'm after some Martin Logans and a few other items. I normally buy second-hand when it comes to the more esoteric equipment to get better value for money.

To the OP, decide on a budget and how important features, size and sound really are to you. Under 50,000 baht go for an all-in-one such as TEAC, Denon, Marantz. If you think you'd prefer separates go to the centre behind Big C as another posted suggested, but you really need to make a trip to BKK. There's only one other good hi-fi stockist around and I think they are in Khon Kaen. If you want to audition the equipment and would consider buying second hand, there are two very good places to start in BKK too. Very good prices for Japanese/American brands whereas European brands are in line with European second-hand prices.

[pumper]

I guess I posted over my head.

I have 40k Thb speakers, ineffecient French Focals w/ kevlar cones, rated at 250w & a 12k Thb Pioneer 7x 100w receiver .. I have 6 1/2 carbon fiber cone German MB Quarts for my rears & a dual 6 1/2 center .. spent 3x on the front speakers as the amp , total 5 speaker cost 6x the receiver.

my Focal speaker vendor reported that his amp has done the same thing as mine 100s of times.

A case of more speaker than amp.

Brit KEFs are well know for classical music reproduction and are extremely inefficient .. 84bd 1w 1m.

my system will play loud & undistorted for a period .. then (me thinks) a bass peak overloads the amp.

& a zen like quite fills my room .. Johnny Winter & Jon Paris are quited for a time.

not really a pop .. more like a poof .. no pop, just quiet.

reboot, = turn back on .. & lower the attenuation .. & all is well, not as loud but well.

my 15 year old Sony 100w receiver (used with my computer & 5 1/4 Polks) is 3x as heavy as my 4 YO pioneer (w/ 75% less total output) & my old 35w Sansui, (1976) was heavier than a stack of these new printed circuit board amplifiers.

the Sansui's power supply had 'large heat dissipation fins', inside the case .. it had replaceable fuses inside the case!

I've never opened the new receivers.

i do believe in my heart that the key to good sound is the speaker not the amp

the owner of Angelic Audio Sukhumvet @ Soi 30, Khun Kris, contends he can hear the difference in CD players ... he has a German 40K Thb CD player that he contends is head & shoulders above the Japanese 10K Thb CD player sitting next to it.

He has a variety of tube amps to audition .. huge GE tubes & massive chromed power supplies w/ machined / finned heat dissipation in those units.

his 5 channel tube amp is HUGE! .. perhaps 1m x .4m x .2m .. the entire custom machined case is finned.

[ltdknowledge]

If you do decide you want a brand such as the above, let me know as i deal in the above plus many more, Lexicon, Revel, Primare, REL, Myriad to mention a few.

Do you live in BKK ltdknowledge? If so, I'm after some Martin Logans and a few other items. I normally buy second-hand when it comes to the more esoteric equipment to get better value for money.

To the OP, decide on a budget and how important features, size and sound really are to you. Under 50,000 baht go for an all-in-one such as TEAC, Denon, Marantz. If you think you'd prefer separates go to the centre behind Big C as another posted suggested, but you really need to make a trip to BKK. There's only one other good hi-fi stockist around and I think they are in Khon Kaen. If you want to audition the equipment and would consider buying second hand, there are two very good places to start in BKK too. Very good prices for Japanese/American brands whereas European brands are in line with European second-hand prices.

Yes i do live in Bangkok however my business is in the Uk although i'm planning on setting up here mainly for multi-room, lighting and home cinema. I can get Martin Logans but i'm sure they would be cheaper to ship over from the US. I used to own a pair of SL3's but sold them only a few months ago.

[Clipped]

the music is only as good as its source....(meaning the cd/tuner, etc...)

the power suppy ratings should exceed the 'peak' rating...of the amplfier section

this will assure that the transient peaks in your music will be able to be fully played do to a healthy power supply , which "feeds" the output section.

a heavy power suppy is a good thing, this indicates the use of a heavy torroid, one that has windings thick enough to support the current required by transient peaks...bass requires the most current....sometimes oems have 2coils in series or parrallel to provide the current ...but most often they use dual coils because the sourcing of 'big' coils(cores) is not feasible.

capacitors in the power supply are there to provide a reservoir of power when the transisistors/mosfets,etc...need them during peaks and times of high power demand....to drive the output section..the capacitors are also there to filter the incoming ac voltage...

...a low 'ESR' capacitor is desireble as this is a measurment of quickness at how fast the energy from the capacitor can feed the transistors/fets...

a heavier power supply should also indicate the use of larger/heavier ground planes in the pcb...which means more current will be able to pass...but it wont be noticeble because copper trace is light in weight.

the op-amp, is the chip used to drive the input signal from the source to the drive/bias, then output section of the amplifier...the opamp is a crucial chain in the process of the reproduction of sound....as well as the transistors in the output section....and i mean transistors, not mosfets..mosfets are good at loud music, but not a detailed reproduction.

when a speaker plays... the impedence(ohm) does not stay constant..it swings up and down...only at rest does it remain constant ....this is why a good power supply is important, so it can keep up..AND, also provide enough power for the drive, bias, output section...

distortion, a 200 watt amp will only be playing at 35-60 % at normal listening levels....this means youd be getting around 100watts .... over powering speakers is not neccessarily a bad thing, unless you are not cautious and dont look for the signs of a stressed speaker....if it starts to distort or smell funny, the speaker is at its limits , it is over excurting (excursion) or the magnetic gap is over saturated...the magnetic gap is the area where the coil moves.

excursion is a major factor of power handling, if the speakers movement exceeds what it was designed for, the speaker , will fail....it is also the movement of the voice coil, which helps to dissipate heat.

excursion is determined by frequency and input power....and in the case of subwoofers, the box design and tuning frequency

but for the common department store setup....multiply the fuse rating by 1.25 and you have a good estimate of what the real power should be...

pmpo and the ceas ratings are bunk and there to hype up products...

i could go on and on...but im kinda drunk right now...so just trust your ears after a very demanding soundcheck....and check to see what the eq is adjusted at !

[Clipped]

correction, the fuse should be multiplied by 10.25 not 1.25...

[elkangorito]

the music is only as good as its source....(meaning the cd/tuner, etc...)

the power suppy ratings should exceed the 'peak' rating...of the amplfier section

this will assure that the transient peaks in your music will be able to be fully played do to a healthy power supply , which "feeds" the output section.

a heavy power suppy is a good thing, this indicates the use of a heavy torroid, one that has windings thick enough to support the current required by transient peaks...bass requires the most current....sometimes oems have 2coils in series or parrallel to provide the current ...but most often they use dual coils because the sourcing of 'big' coils(cores) is not feasible.

capacitors in the power supply are there to provide a reservoir of power when the transisistors/mosfets,etc...need them during peaks and times of high power demand....to drive the output section..the capacitors are also there to filter the incoming ac voltage...

...a low 'ESR' capacitor is desireble as this is a measurment of quickness at how fast the energy from the capacitor can feed the transistors/fets...

a heavier power supply should also indicate the use of larger/heavier ground planes in the pcb...which means more current will be able to pass...but it wont be noticeble because copper trace is light in weight.

the op-amp, is the chip used to drive the input signal from the source to the drive/bias, then output section of the amplifier...the opamp is a crucial chain in the process of the reproduction of sound....as well as the transistors in the output section....and i mean transistors, not mosfets..mosfets are good at loud music, but not a detailed reproduction.

when a speaker plays... the impedence(ohm) does not stay constant..it swings up and down...only at rest does it remain constant ....this is why a good power supply is important, so it can keep up..AND, also provide enough power for the drive, bias, output section...

distortion, a 200 watt amp will only be playing at 35-60 % at normal listening levels....this means youd be getting around 100watts .... over powering speakers is not neccessarily a bad thing, unless you are not cautious and dont look for the signs of a stressed speaker....if it starts to distort or smell funny, the speaker is at its limits , it is over excurting (excursion) or the magnetic gap is over saturated...the magnetic gap is the area where the coil moves.

excursion is a major factor of power handling, if the speakers movement exceeds what it was designed for, the speaker , will fail....it is also the movement of the voice coil, which helps to dissipate heat.

excursion is determined by frequency and input power....and in the case of subwoofers, the box design and tuning frequency

but for the common department store setup....multiply the fuse rating by 1.25 and you have a good estimate of what the real power should be...

pmpo and the ceas ratings are bunk and there to hype up products...

i could go on and on...but im kinda drunk right now...so just trust your ears after a very demanding soundcheck....and check to see what the eq is adjusted at !

What "class" of final amplifier should be used? Is it better to use a pre-driver stage not parasitically coupled to the final stage?

[Clipped]

class A if possible, but true class A amplifier stages are hard to come across...most are class A/B biased..meaning that it will be class A for the first (approx) 25% then will switch over to class B....just stick with class A or A/B....stay away from classD....class D technology is not yet to the point where the interference from the switching frequency can be overcome completely.

A class A amp always has the transistors switched on full tilt, pulling constant current...the variation in input signal strength is what dictates the output.

the bias circuit is coupled into the output stage, this is where the op-amps come in, they take the amplified signal of the output stage and compare it to the original input signal and tries as best as it can to match them...so the output stays close to the source.

a pre driver stage not coupled to the output stage isnt neccesarily going to give you better sound....its how well the transistors can switch on and off that is going to give you better sound....if the transistors are fed well, they will play well....

there will always be an op-amp somewhere in the stages, the way it is coupled to provide feedback...is what is important...some designs use opto couplers to avoid distorting circuit feedback.

saying which design is better is always looking for trouble as there are so many different designs and more important so many different types of ears.

power supply design can be recommended, but the final amplifier stage is reliant on the listener.

remember the music is only as good as the source...and the speakers...the amplifier plays the smallest role....just make sure it is really powerful....not so you can crank it...but so it doesnt distort.

[ltdknowledge]

the music is only as good as its source....(meaning the cd/tuner, etc...)

the power suppy ratings should exceed the 'peak' rating...of the amplfier section

this will assure that the transient peaks in your music will be able to be fully played do to a healthy power supply , which "feeds" the output section.

a heavy power suppy is a good thing, this indicates the use of a heavy torroid, one that has windings thick enough to support the current required by transient peaks...bass requires the most current....sometimes oems have 2coils in series or parrallel to provide the current ...but most often they use dual coils because the sourcing of 'big' coils(cores) is not feasible.

capacitors in the power supply are there to provide a reservoir of power when the transisistors/mosfets,etc...need them during peaks and times of high power demand....to drive the output section..the capacitors are also there to filter the incoming ac voltage...

...a low 'ESR' capacitor is desireble as this is a measurment of quickness at how fast the energy from the capacitor can feed the transistors/fets...

a heavier power supply should also indicate the use of larger/heavier ground planes in the pcb...which means more current will be able to pass...but it wont be noticeble because copper trace is light in weight.

the op-amp, is the chip used to drive the input signal from the source to the drive/bias, then output section of the amplifier...the opamp is a crucial chain in the process of the reproduction of sound....as well as the transistors in the output section....and i mean transistors, not mosfets..mosfets are good at loud music, but not a detailed reproduction.

when a speaker plays... the impedence(ohm) does not stay constant..it swings up and down...only at rest does it remain constant ....this is why a good power supply is important, so it can keep up..AND, also provide enough power for the drive, bias, output section...

distortion, a 200 watt amp will only be playing at 35-60 % at normal listening levels....this means youd be getting around 100watts .... over powering speakers is not neccessarily a bad thing, unless you are not cautious and dont look for the signs of a stressed speaker....if it starts to distort or smell funny, the speaker is at its limits , it is over excurting (excursion) or the magnetic gap is over saturated...the magnetic gap is the area where the coil moves.

excursion is a major factor of power handling, if the speakers movement exceeds what it was designed for, the speaker , will fail....it is also the movement of the voice coil, which helps to dissipate heat.

excursion is determined by frequency and input power....and in the case of subwoofers, the box design and tuning frequency

but for the common department store setup....multiply the fuse rating by 1.25 and you have a good estimate of what the real power should be...

pmpo and the ceas ratings are bunk and there to hype up products...

i could go on and on...but im kinda drunk right now...so just trust your ears after a very demanding soundcheck....and check to see what the eq is adjusted at !

I heavy PSU is not a sign of a good amplifier or device. The 90s What Hi-fi poor reveiws have changed, and the description of weight meaning a good device is wrong. Thats not to say all however. A bad amplifier is one that produces to much heat, in otherwords poor efficiancy, just as with a speaker. Although terrodials are better than most basic PSU's, Split mode transofmers are the best and are very light, and produce very little heat, making the amplifier very efficient.

The heart of any amplifier is the power supply unit (PSU) which changes the mains voltage to safe voltages that the amplifier can use.

Most of the highest quality amplifiers use very large and heavy 50 or 60Hz mains transformers depending on the country. These along with rectifiers and reservoir capacitors go to make up the usual type of power supply generally in use today. This standard style of PSU has been designed to absorb and store energy or charge at a rate of 120 times per second. Unfortunately the demands for reproducing most types of music are much greater and sometimes this means that conventional amplifiers are not good at delivering their energy at audio frequencies.

In order to cope with these musical demands the conventional amplifiers often use components that are unnecessarily large and this factor dictates the size of the amplifier. The normal use of linear voltage regulators associated with this type of power supply makes the situation worse still. Requiring the amplifier to dissipate much more power in the form of heat - the more power the amp has to dissipate as heat, the larger the heat sinks, the larger the design, the less compact the audio signal. Thus this type of amplifier is bulky, heavy, sometimes slow to respond, generally inefficient, causes high mains power distortion, can cause electrical and acoustic noise and requires a relatively long and exposed audio path.

Forget specs, just listen.

Edited January 9, 2007 by ltdknowledge

[Clipped]

using unneccassarily large components, adds to the durability and longevity.

id rather do 100 mph at 3000 rpm with a 6 cylinder than 100 mph at 7000 rpm with a 4 cylinder.

[astral]

I think there is a shop with quality items in Naklua, by the traffic lights on the beach road.

If not there is a shop on the second floor of Tukkom in Sri Racha,

and also on the 2nd floor of the Pacific Mall in Sri Racha.