Crossy

The thread title says it all. https://www.lazada.co.th//products/i4684244186-s19289758695.html

Very possibly. An easy test would be to simply open the breaker that controls the outside lights. It's not foolproof but could be guiding you in the right direction.

I can just about cope with pineapple on pizza, but Thousand Island? ???????? I thought it was only on the seafood pizzas (which I don't like anyway) but I will observe carefully when ordering. EDIT It's the Spicy Grilled Chicken that has Thousand Island, I also note that the Cheese and Bacon has the potential abomination of Sour Cream sauce ????

Only if you eat at Milliways!

ChatGPT is hedging its bets: -

Leaving aside the common/owned part for now, you obviously want to get your juice back on ASAP. I would ask the condo juristic if they have a recommended sparks who can come and investigate the issue and provide a quote to fix it. Based on said quote you can decide if it's a "just get it fixed" job or a "let's talk about this issue" job. Cables don't often just fail; it could have been damaged by other works (that contractor is responsible) or badly installed in the first place.

I think he's some sort of case-moth.

I'd give it a go. Over the years I've had loads of vegetarian and even vegan fare, it was universally pretty good, so long as it didn't pretend to be what it wasn't! The "plant-based meat substitutes" are not universally bad (although some were diabolical) so long as you don't expect them to feel and taste like actual meat. To (nearly) quote Douglas Adams they are "something almost, but not quite entirely unlike tea meat". Lab grown meat is actually meat (or at least animal protein), it "should" be pretty realistic. But, if it's twice the price of animal grown meat ...

I would agree ^^^, it's common area, condo issue! Is there another breaker/fuse in the line, possibly in a utilities room on your floor?

Erase those second thoughts! The risk from a fire is far greater than the risk from your extinguisher. You would not be installing a CO2 extinguisher like the one that blew up. The red ABC ones you get from HomePro etc. use far lower pressures and don't usually get refilled. Wise not to install them in the sun of course.

It was a while back but I think it came from MegaHome, it was an impulse purchase, saw them, thought it was a good idea, bought one. Plenty on Lazada.

We replace ours after 5 years or so, buy a couple of new ones then move the older ones to the "less flammable" locations. The oldest ones I let the grandkids use to put out a couple of "fires" (smash a couple of pallets with half a litre of diesel to help things along). We have a large garden so the mess isn't an issue but it teaches them (and the Missus) what these things sound and feel like. It's also enormous fun! EDIT Even the oldest ones have never failed to function as expected, so they're probably good for 10+ years provided the pressure gauge is still in the green. But at a grand or so a pop ... EDIT 2 I would also recommend a fire-blanket for the kitchen too, better than the classic damp-towel and doesn't make to remains of the food inedible.

We had one, the front wheel fell off! Same design as the Minor which had the same issue

Yeah, the ones we used in drills (long ago) were water type, no mess.

CO2 extinguishers wouldn't normally be used for homes they are a bit specialist and can't fight all types of fire, I'm most surprised they were being used during a student fire exercise. The ones in HomePro etc. are ABC dry-powder, easy to use, messy, safe. We have half a dozen of various ages scattered around along with a fire-blanket in the kitchen (put the food out and still have it edible)

And this dear reader, is why it's called "Trial Running". The aim being to iron out the major bugs before passengers have to pay for the service.

I'm not a plumber, nor do I play one on TV. But that looks a nightmare. How would the pipe have been routed if the support wasn't there? If it was a sensible route then I'd have modified the ceiling supports. 90o bends are a problem when it comes to stoppages, and you will get stoppages ???? Your 2 x 45o bends would be a sensible solution. Of course, now it's glued it's going to be less than easy to change ????

There's no easy way to add a limiter to an existing GTI system, either replace your GTI with a unit that has a limiter (there are some low-cost units available) or DIY some way of using/dumping excess energy. Hybrids work well but you have the additional cost of the energy storage system (batteries). Do be aware that there have been (unconfirmed) reports of electronic meters counting UP if a user should export. Obviously, this is not something you want to happen.

Just to add to what @sometimewoodworkerhas noted. The "30-30-30 rule" (30 Volts, 30 milliamps, 30 milliseconds) is a necessary compromise between having "nuisance trips" and not killing the vast majority of healthy adults. The old, young or infirm may well have a lower tolerance to electric shock. Hence the use of 10mA or even lower RCBO tripping currents in medical or similar situations. @ubonr1971 don't worry about the technicalities, you need to replace that RCBO module, then if you continue to get tripping you need to investigate the root cause. Note that most sparkies would test the RCBO unit by substitution, put a new one in and see if the problem goes away.

The over-current protection is there to protect your wiring against overload (and potential fire). The RCBO is there to protect humans against death from an accidental shock, from either faulty appliances or touching a live wire. You need both for maximum safety. Note that we don't know what other protection is in place, do your rooms have individual breakers or breaker boxes? Show us some photos there may be sufficient protection there.

With the RCBO module missing you have NO earth leakage protection. A faulty water heater or other appliance could kill. The shunt-release is simply the actuator for the MCBs, it is controlled by the RCBO module when it is fitted. You need to obtain a replacement RCBO module of the correct type and install it. If you still have tripping you need to do some further fault-finding.

If you don't score here in the local forum, drop me a PM and we can move to the Alternative Energy forum where more solar users will see the thread. Have you done any consumption measurements to determine just how much solar and how much storage you would need? Useful as a baseline, even if you intend getting your contractor to size the system. As a starting point I suggest reading your meter at 9AM and 5PM every day for a week or two. That would give you a day/night consumption figure. The night consumption will allow you to size your batteries.

The missing unit is actually just the trigger electronics for the shunt-release (the small blue device on the right) that opens the main MCB. Without it you lose the RCD functionality but retain the MCB over-current protection.

Yup, it's a shunt release which is supposed to be operated by the absent RCBO sensing module.

As above, with the RCBO module removed you have no earth-leakage protection. Any indication where the unit went? It may well be faulty but having the old one would make life far easier when sourcing a replacement. Of course, when you fit the new one you will still have the tripping issue. Then it's time to start looking for the real problem.