Crossy

A lot of generalisations there. How did you calculate the 18,000 BTU size?

Shading your outdoor unit will help, make sure you don't restrict its airflow. Any shading you can give your walls will help too. We've had to shade our water tank as the "cold" water got too hot to shower

We've used several flavours of similar stuff both with and without the "decor". This one happens to be in-stock (it's actually conwood, same-same). For a shelf install it with the decorative side down so you get a nice flat surface.

220V +- 10% (which is sort of guaranteed) is 198V to 242V. In reality, even your non-inverter A/C should be fine down to 185V (-16%). Small AVR (automatic voltage regulator) are readily available which will magic 220V out of 150V, cover just one or two items or your whole house. Pretty well every A/C in Delhi has an AVR next to the indoor unit, power there can be somewhat "variable".

Go on the first day they re-open and you'll be fine, it will be BUSY. In future don't leave it to the last minute, your extension will start from the current permit to stay end date.

Thaiwatsadu, Global house, MegaHome have air-terminals, rods and copper strip in varying combinations, you'll likely end up visiting all three to get what you want. As to whether they actually work? Even now the jury is out on just how to protect your installation. Peruse the many manufacturer's websites and advice notes and make an informed decision. Not long after we moved in, we took a direct hit to the roof of our steel and concrete home. Frightened the willies out of the wife. Physical damage was a chunk out of one of our teak barge-boards and a couple of ridge tiles. Easy fix. Our roof steel is (fortuitously) connected all the way down to the steel in the piles which doubtless limited the damage. Electrical damage. Pretty much everything outside the faraday-cage of the house got zapped, satellite LNB, WiMax router, electric gate controller etc. Inside damage was limited to PC UPSs. Lights and TVs etc. lived to tell the tale and at the time we had no surge suppression. We still haven't installed any air-terminals although we have surge arrestors everywhere. No issue in 10 years (looking for wood to touch!).

Also, put heat shrink on your spanners, socket ratchet etc. We all drop stuff and it gets very hot very fast even on one 280Ah cell!!

Yeah, I think the ceiling stuff will be too compressible. Foam should be fine, but don't use it as insulation that's in contact with live parts. I've seen some foams that are slightly conductive and can actually get hot at 48V!

Looking good. I would have some sort of plate on top of the steel shelf elements. You need to ensure the weight is evenly spread on the batteries. Also insulate, insulate, insulate, the outer case of the cells are connected to one terminal of the battery and the blue insulation is very thin. The shelves our packs are on are faced with 10mm Shera board, it's cheap, spreads the load and is insulating.

Generally, all the metallic bits of your structure (including the panel frames) should be electrically bonded together and then grounded. That's why you see all those little bits of green/yellow linking the panels (and cable tray, trunking etc.) together on a "pro" installation. In reality, the fixings themselves will provide an adequate bond and the bonding wires are the insurance. Your building steel may be an adequate ground already. Our house roof steel measures better than our 2.5m copper-clad rod ???? But it's the rod that makes it all "to code".

Lower voltage will need THICKER wire for the same power (higher current). You need to match the string voltage to the operating point of your MPPT controller without going over the maximum. Why would high voltage be unsafe on a solidly grounded (via the building steel) metal roof? Solar strings tend not to be ground-referenced anyway.

I just went and checked my latest renewal from Ivacy, still 42 USD for TWO years.

Are they actually taxing the sun? I know the power companies are providing "free" off-grid systems to remote locations, then billing the power at normal network rates. This is because it's cheaper than maintaining the SWER lines that currently provide grid-power.

There is no "if" about grounding your water heater, currently the only approved grounding method for a domestic installation is a 2.4 metre rod. It looks like your sparks has already pulled suitable cables for the heater ???? So, he should also know how to correctly earth your system in order to pass the MEA/PEA inspection for a permanent supply which will include installing a copper-clad ground rod (solid copper would be $$$). This is a good PEA document (in Thai of course) Groundwire Mk2 book-Manual.pdf The relevant page with my translations.

Google "Operation mincemeat"

A wife was making a breakfast of fried eggs for her husband. Suddenly, her husband burst into the kitchen. "Careful," he said, "CAREFUL! Put in some more butter! Oh my gosh! You're cooking too many at once. TOO MANY! Turn them! TURN THEM NOW! We need more butter. Oh my gosh! WHERE are we going to get MORE BUTTER? They're going to STICK! Careful. CAREFUL! I said be CAREFUL! You NEVER listen to me when you're cooking! Never! Turn them! Hurry up! Are you CRAZY? Have you LOST your mind? Don't forget to salt them. You know you always forget to salt them. Use the Salt. USE THE SALT! THE SALT!" The wife stared at him. "What in the world is wrong with you?! You think I don't know how to fry a couple of eggs?" The husband calmly replied, "I just wanted to show you what it feels like when I'm driving."

Shhh, you never know who's what's listening! It's just waiting for the most inopportune moment to strike!

And for those who don't know ... I always thought it was a Hamlet commercial ????

OK, it looks like the actual outlet valve is the one of those on the vertical pipes going to the filters. Try turning them both off to see if the cycling stops. If it does, you're still looking for a leak in the house. If it doesn't stop cycling then I would suspect a leaky foot-valve (non-return valve) somewhere between the tanks and the pump. I hope it's accessible ????

Interesting. OK try this. Turn off the pump power and turn off that red valve. Run a tap in the house. Do you get a decent amount of water out before the flow stops, or very little? A little would suggest that the valve is on the outlet side of the pump, I would have expected it to pump up the tank and then stop. Where is the pump getting its water from? A tank or are you pumping from the supply (naughty). I wonder if there's a bypass valve that's gone dribbly. It very difficult to see from photos, maybe you could try sketching out what you have?

OK. A couple of questions: - What model is your existing router? What model do you want to replace it with? Are you on ADSL, fibre or cable internet? (or something else) Do you have access to your existing router's configuration pages? (We would need this to extract your current connection credentials)

What are you actually trying to achieve? There are a number of ways to set up your new router without actually removing the supplied one (and losing the technical support that comes with it).

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that's the outlet side of the pump. If it stops cycling, start looking for a leak. As others have noted a dribbly float valve is a common culprit. If it doesn't stop cycling then you likely have a leaky check (non-return) valve on the inlet side of the pump (you may even be able to hear the pressure bleeding off).

Definitely sounds like a leak ???? If you close the outlet-side valve does it stop cycling?