Crossy

We all know, electricity and water don't mix!

They are hiding in plain-sight.

Making everything 2-pole (or 1P+N) is going to confuse the heck out of the inspector (not to mention your sparking contractor). A diagram may help but if you get a mean inspector ... Personally, I'd stick to the standard Thai kit, single pole MCBs and multiple small ground bars for each RCD.

This PEA document explains the minimum requirements, the OP seems to meet it. Groundwire Mk2 book-Manual.pdf BUT as @bluejetssuggests a diagram would be most useful. Switching the N on a 3-phase supply is not usually recommended, you need a specific 4-pole breaker which connects N first and disconnects it last. Just use a 3-pole, it's easier and cheaper. The important diagram, my translation.

Meanwhile ... https://www.dailymail.co.uk/galleries/article-12559387/New-Act-force-governments-disclose-UFO-evidence-public.html

You can also get an adaptor to use with those "Picnic Gas" canisters which are available everywhere. https://www.lazada.co.th/products/1-i4305958682-s17131457226.html

Yes. I got this from our local Mom-n-Pop hardware outlet. EDIT https://www.lazada.co.th/products/buga-i4771784017-s19897436300.html

The C-curve only affects the magnetic switch-on surge protection, in reality no hazard. The Type-AC RCBO section can be "blinded" by pulsating DC faults, since pretty well everything these days has switching power supplies these days you should really avoid Type-AC (although better than nothing) use Type-A if at all possible.

Related quote from Mock the Week - "I thought PPI was what you got from swimming without goggles" Fetching my coat!

Leaked image of one of the test samples.

Check, check and check again before actually connecting the BMS. You don't want to let out the Magic-Smoke! The result of not RTFM! No, not mine!!

BUT Your RCD/RCBO is an electro-mechanical device, they can and do fail (when did you last test yours?). Also, the 30mA trip current was chosen as a reasonable balance between having nuisance trips and not killing healthy adults. The elderly, infirm or very young could still die. Earthing of Class-1 appliances is the number one safety precaution. It's also worth noting that many modern appliances (like your desktop PC) also require the earth in order for the power-supply interference suppression components to work correctly (it's these components that cause the "tingle" you sometimes get from an un-earthed PC).

Our extinguishers are all hanging on the brackets they came with, big, red and visible. We also have a fire blanket in the kitchen so that once extinguished the food could still be edible. As I've noted before, when I rotate our units (buy a new one) I let the family set off the one that's being "retired". Putting out piles of pallets is great fun and educational too. Considering how long it took the local brigade to arrive and extinguish the fire at a nearby resort I think I may get a couple more

That's not a UFO - THIS is a UFO ...

I'd go for the 1mm2 cable. Even at 100A the current in the loop would only be 30mA or so but you want to minimise any volt drop. With a CT volt-drop isn't really a concern but ...

Yeah, Type-AC are the lowest of the low, being phased out in several countries Aus being one IIRC @bluejets? Type-AC units can be "blinded" by pulsating DC which is a by-product of switching power supplies. Type-A are recommended as a minimum now. Type-B for your EV. Important Note - we are talking about RCD/RCBO types here https://www.electrical-installation.org/enwiki/Types_of_RCDs#: not MCB tripping curves which are related to start-up surge characteristics.

Our big white rooster "Bruiser" died a while back (old age and over exertion with some new ladies I think). I rather miss his morning (actually any time of day or night) greeting, the replacement doesn't seem to crow at all.

A post which breaches the Asean Now Community Standards has been removed.

Seriously, chooks are a fact of life in Thailand, take steps to keep the beast out of your home.

Nah, can't have been brake failure. From the position of the tree, it looks like it stepped out in front of the bus and the driver made a valiant attempt to avoid hitting it.

It's definitely going to get pretty warm under there with or without clear sheets, the clear will make it get even warmer. It's also worth considering just how UV resistant your chosen sheeting is. A lot of the "clear" stuff goes cloudy in pretty short order.

RCDs or RCBOs (RCDs with over-current protection) will work just fine with multiple earths or even with no earth. If you are re-wiring it would be wise to wire to the current Thai standard of a central rod and a N-E (MEN) link in the consumer unit (this assumes that your local distribution system has the neutral earthed every 3rd pole or so).

Yeah, you can then paste directly into an AN post: - Like that (<Ctrl V>) ????

I now identify as a microwave meal: - I look pretty good on the outside. I'm often disappointing. and I'm done in about 5 minutes.

OK, I get what you are talking about now. I'm not sure it makes much difference to performance, but the presence of a smaller lug on top of the main battery connection may reduce the effectiveness. Commercial packs vary, but many use laser-welded cell connections meaning they have to connect to the cell interconnect. Of the three packs I've built all have the BMS sense leads on the interconnect bars. The first I actually soldered the wires on (you need a BIG soldering iron) the other two are drilled and tapped M4 with crimped lugs on the sense wires.