Crossy

This is a very good question of course as the current can flow in either direction. You need to find a DC MCB that's not directional, there are plenty around. Generally if it doesn't actually say line/load it's good in either direction. In the past I've found far more DC MCBs that are polarity sensitive than I have that are direction sensitive.

DC MCBs (like you show in your diagram) are often polarity (+/-) and direction (line/load) sensitive, it's all to do with the special arc-suppression/quenching arrangements needed for DC that AC units don't require. AC MCBs tend not to bother with polarity or direction, but be aware RCDs and RCBOs are direction sensitive.

Actually on topic:- Madam cooks well and doesn't use excessive salt, sugar or (any) MSG, we make our own burgers, sausages, bacon and ham so we know what's in them, we really don't do processed food (ok the grandkids like chicken nuggets and pizza but that's a pretty rare treat). I don't exercise nearly as much as I should and I'm definitely in the "overweight" bracket, I try to swim several times a week but that's really more because I like it than serious cardio. Today's workout, cutting the grass, trimming the hedges, a bit cloudy so not too hot.

and sex, don't forget sex

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An off-topic attempt to derail the thread has gone walkabout along with the eminently sensible replies.

It means my "C" key is erratic, should read "DC" ???? But the DC side needs DC arrestors and DC rated breakers. Please don't be tempted to use AC breakers on the DC lines.

Yeah, you could do that, it might be wise to do anyway with your off-grid hybrids so you can bypass the inverters if something goes wrong.

With a 50m gap you can safely run the remote stuff as a TT island with just a local ground rod and no N-E bond. Definitely tie all your structure to the rod, our inverters etc are actually connected to the structure, there is a rod too (also connected to the structural steel) but in reality the structure is already a better ground than the rod. Nice meaty surge arrestors at least 40/80kA preferably 60/100kA and don't forget the DC side if you have string inverters (micro inverters I wouldn't bother with DC arrestors).

3,500W at 220V is 15.9A, Thai outlets / plugs are theoretically 16A! Something is going to melt. You could install a Schuko outlet / plug which are rather more realistically 16A but I wouldn't. I'd be looking at something like this 8L tanked heater, only uses 1,500W https://www.lazada.co.th/products/dszf-a8-108l-i4023020373-s15624743811.html

Yeah, I see the problem now.

Yeah, I reckon the fire had been simmering away in the roof space for some time with no outward signs. Then the lot reaches a critical temperature and it all flashes-over, hence the almost instantaneous spread and "explosions".

Yup, because I already knew what they were for but couldn't be a***d to type it out. This site is definitely not Quora.com (anyone who's been there will know what I mean).

Here you go https://facts.net/why-do-electrical-plugs-have-holes/

Many if not all off-grid hybrids can top-up the solar by using grid energy. BUT I'm not aware of an off-grid hybrid that can go over rated capacity when topping up from the grid (we are entering the realm of the on-grid hybrid here), of course they may or even probably do exist. Many have a "bypass" facility but this completely bypasses the inverter so no energy is taken from the solar or batteries. In order to avoid future issues I would bite the bullet and get enough inverters to parallel for your prospective load now. One never knows if the same model will be available when you need to expand, or, for that matter, even if one is available will it be compatible with your older version. In reality, I'd be tempted to go on-grid hybrid and adjust your house wiring to split off your "essential loads", it's not such a major task. When you get your EV just add another on-grid hybrid or even a pure grid-tie if you are only going to charge during the day. An on-grid hybrid plus a grid-tie is what we have and they play remarkably well together, even charging the batteries from their combined outputs which is something I didn't expect as there's no comms between them.

I assume you also remember the delightful Mary Millington ???? John died in 1988, he was only 43, probably got an erection and died of lack of blood to the brain! We are both showing our age!!

I know not these "inches" of which you speak!

That 3rd picture is either a huge panel or a little guy ????

In my professional life I would never consider anything other than Fluke! But of course my employer paid back then. Now as a lowly consultant I'm not allowed to touch the tools let alone have them bought for me ???? https://www.lazada.co.th/products/fluke-376-fc-true-rms-1000a-acdc-iflex-2500a-ac-nist-traceable-calibration-certificate-f376fc-i2389524585-s8130685560.html

A handy-dandy trick for clamp meter users is to make yourself one of these:- That's just 10 turns of equipment wire, pass your current through that and clamp the coil through the hole and you magically multiply your reading by 10, so your 0.5A reads as 5A. Great for smallish currents on a 60A range ????

@MJCM be aware that many of the cheaper clamp meters only do AC current.

I would get one with a current clamp that does DC since you're looking at solar ???? EDIT - I have one of these https://www.lazada.co.th/products/uni-t-ut204-600aac-600adc-uni-t-ut204-mini-digital-clamp-meter-i1971178318-s15109530046.html

Yeah, I've got a couple of mates looking at doing just this coz they're at home during the heat of the day.