mran66

Think twice and inspect/review both the item as well as the household where it comes from before you bring 2nd hand sofas, mattresses, carpets etc items that can act as a residence for various kinds of bugs and infest your whole home. Cost of getting rid of them might be multiple times of a new piece of furniture. For basic furniture items for farangs it is hard to beat IKEA, and they deliver for reasoble fee. I've bought various kinds of items as 2nd hand over the years, and it really seems to be hit and miss. Often sellers have out of whack expectations for the price, but every now and then can find a good deal as well. Overall, seems the farang market has largely moved from bahtsold to FB marketplace. Local people still use Kaidee I guess, but it is only in Thai, but if use with browser, can manage with translated pages.

Sure, was using the term to refer to geography rather than culture. Anyway the point was that there are many ways to point to other people to blame for a problem rather than deal with a self-caused problem themselves. Part of culture throughout the country regardless of previous kingdoms or cultures I guess.

Hmmm...seems Lanna people are about as good in taking responsibility for their actions as Thai...kind of of like a court in Beijing would decide to tell United Nations to take action to stop people of Beijing to stop burning stuff that makes their air not good🤔

Contact him for details and contact info for the provider if interested. he also in fb. Loucous McCain

Rides 4 Kickz had a video in youtube about a year back, have a look. I recall live in nurse was around 20k+ a month or something like that. Rented from a service provider, not hired I think.

Check the aluminum brackets in thai watsadu.

There's a reason I've always declined cable car rides in Thailand as in China...

The beautiful bamboo bridge as of October 2023, pictured from opposite direction..to be replaced by beautiful makeshift concrete bridge?

I have made food for them based on a recipe found in youtube. Include boric acid, oil/fat and flour. They seem to like it a lot but go belly up after eating. Works. Many different tips with boric acid in YouTube

I have made food for them based on a recipe found in youtube. Include boric acid, oil/fat and flour. They seem to like it a lot but go belly up after eating. Works. Many different tips with boric acid in YouTube

went to have a look the other day, and bought a few things, including a kilo of their own brand mayonnaise for my coleslaw. That sucks compared to Makro mayo => everything in the whole Go wholesale must be no good!

... Maybe she was too curious to check what are those open cables at base of many street light poles..

As I already got a replacement bamboo trunk and concrete piece to put under the trunk, I think I will just cut it off and install the bamboo in place of it and fix the shower properly to bamboo. Just wondering if worth treating with some wood stain or something else easy, or just install au naturel and replace either with new bamboo or aluminum profile whenever it gets bad enough

I was also considering to use aluminium profile instead of bamboo, but felt bamboo trunk would kind of look nicer to my eye than sterile white painted aluminium profile (that sure would last forever), knowing that no matter hot to treat it, it would not last as long as the aluminium Many years ago I installed an outdoor shower to a palm tree which at the time was alive and kicking. Few years ago it died and dropped the leafy branches without growing new ones. Now the dead palm tree has rotten (both inside the trunk as well as roots) to the extent that I need to do something about it, otherwise the shower will fall down in not too distant future. Just bought a thick bamboo trunk and few smaller sticks to make some supporting structure around. well, don't really have good place to soak, esp for months as would like to do the job in next few days or so. I read from some page that soaking in boric acid solution would be good, however that would need to be done soon after the bamboo has been cut, not for one that has dried out long time already so presumably not good for me either. Treating with diesel also not really good idea for my application as don't want the everlasting smell...but how is this paraffin, is that something that does not smell like diesel, and could possibly be applied with just a brush? Several years ago I made grilles out of around 1 inch bamboo sticks to hide aircon units from eyes, and just applied some Sadolin wood stain to them and they are all still okay, however they are under the roof so that they never get rain nor direct sunlight.

Any recommendations how should I treat dry bamboo poles/sticks for outdoor installation (will be fully exposed to sun and rain)? Bought some dry bamboo and wondering if should varnish or oil them to increase life before installation. Is it better just let them be as is, or treat with something?

Understand, not counterintuitive to me. My problem is that I want to have high pressure as mostly use the hose to spray or wash something...

Yeah - seems the pressure difference at pump with and without sprayer is fairly small due to size and length of the hose. Actually the problem would be not much less even with the std pressure switch setting as the pressure seems to remain at around 3bar (i.e at cut off level) when using the hose. Might even be worse if the pump would stop and start frequently, causing heat from that start-stop cycle. However, as my watering needs as well as other uses for my garden hose are not too long lasting, I will stick to the 1/2 inch one as the 5/8 is substantially less convenient to handle e.g when washing something etc. But clear, if would need water with extended times, would need to have larger hose to reduce the load to pump/motor

Yes understand. Re 305 pump, seems my 10yrs old works about same as neighbors new one what comes to power use at a certain pressure/volume level. Your 20yrs ago pump may have had different spec esp the pressure switch setting, maybe switch set so that pump can not heat too much even if it could supply water at 3+ bars if swich adjusted so Even today's pumps have default different settings dependent on model (guess smaller ones have lower as they simply can not go higher with any meaningful supply). And as I have done, you can tune up a bit as long as you don't need the pump to run for extended periods.

Both statements probably equally true...sure the 15-20k baht multi-stage Grundfos pumps can move more water at higher pressure than the usual wp-305-405 single stage small-household Mitsus - however makes hardly any difference if you set the pressure switch to 3bar on both, and only use water for ordinary household purpose for 1-2 persons for shower, bathroom sink, kitchen and laundry etc. But if you need more supply (e.g for family of 6 with all taking shower/bath simultaneously, with washing machine, dishwasher and garden watering running at same time) - esp so if you want water to come with higher pressure and set the switch to 4 or 5 bar, you can get that from multi-stage pumps (regardless of brand) by just adjusting the pressure switch as long as you have picked a pump that has enough (and large enough) stages, driven by large enough motor. Limit at the end is your breaker amp size... Alternatively if you install 2 or more of those Mitsus in parallel to cope with the higher usage moments, you are fine as long as you dont need much more than 3bar at pump when tap/shower is open, going higher than that wont work with Mitsus (unless you put two of them in series) But for people like me, with one person household with a random visitor, rarely having more than one tap/valve open simultaneously, such higher capacity pump or multiple single stage ones would be simply waste of money, kind of like installing a 20kw water heater for my shower for which 4.5kw (out of the 6kw adjustable heater) is enough to have nice warm shower... In my home country is usual to have 100-150m deep well, into which you drop a long multi-stage (often Grundfos) pump - in such application the Thai Mitsus would only generate heat, no water! The real learning for me out of this was that the nominal 300w actually does not mean much as in reality the motor uses more than the nominal almost always when it runs, and that if you use the pump in normal use case (shower, bathroom sink, garden watering), the real power is about double. Have not given any thought to the whole issue before actually, but that's how it seems to be

the pump motor nominal power in label is 300w. pressure switch spec for wp-305 is 2.4 start and 3.0 stop, and this is how my neighbor new pump actually works. as said, few years ago I actually tested how much pressure the pump can do, and as result set the cut off to about 3.5. I recall he pump itself can make close to 4 however not obviously with any meaniful flow. With small flow like house tap or shower, it keeps at 3+ But it is obvious that the power motor takes within the switch start-stop range is way more than the 'nominal' - I guess the motor nominal power is defined in state when pump just moves water from inlet to outlet without having any (or at least much) pressure. Maybe can test some day out of curiosity

Took off the cowling and fan to check - it is good, no damage and solid in place. Also, pump/motor rotates easily, only minor friction from seal, no bearing sound/feeling, no issues there. Measured the current of my pump and also measured my neighbor's pump current (same model but newer). I guess I am getting to the tails of the issue. When water flow is low, just below pressure switch cutting off, my pump runs around 2.8-2.9 amps. Same test for my neighbor shows about 2.4-2.5 amps, i.e both about double the 'nominal' level. It appears the nominal value indeed is just nominal, basically pump running without much load, just pumping water out with low pressure and no load for motor to pump against pressure. What is different between my pump as my neighbor's pump though is that I have tuned the pressure switch a bit, basically adjusted the cut-off closer to the max level that the pump can make (to get higher pressure to 3rd floor). I think the std cut-off is 3bar, mine is around 3.5 according to the gauge I have. When tuning it, I recall the pump was able to make close to 4bar, however obviously needed to work hard to get there, so set a bit down from max level. Now, when using my long 1/2 inch garden hose, with or without the sprayer, the pressure remains in 3+ bar range, keeping the pump running at 2+ times current vs the nominal level. I believe this is the explanation for the heating - the motor is simply not designed to run extended times at this load level, and the thermal protection just cuts it off if used like that. The pump does it job OK to deliver water at 3+ bar load level for normal household use though, no cutoffs from that use as usage times are normally fairly short. So I guess nothing can do, it is what it is. Would be interesting to hear if someone is actually using this pump model with long run times at low pressure level without the thermal tripping - or alternatively having the same behavior as I have with higher pressure and extended runtime

Underground tank. The pump actually is cool even when the thermal will trip and stop the motor, only motor is hot. Pump has only weak thermal connection to the motor and thus dont cool the motor much.

Good point, need to check that. That could explain.

Usually using the rotation-adjustable sprayer. Pressure probably remains close to the 3bar cut limit as flow is relatively small. But I recall the heating also happened without the sprayer, just using 1/2 inch garden house with open end

Pump is being supplied from tank, without any direct connection to city water. Tank is filled from city water. No air in system. Connection is properly done, that is not the issue.