mran66

There's a reason I've always declined cable car rides in Thailand as in China...

The beautiful bamboo bridge as of October 2023, pictured from opposite direction..to be replaced by beautiful makeshift concrete bridge?

I have made food for them based on a recipe found in youtube. Include boric acid, oil/fat and flour. They seem to like it a lot but go belly up after eating. Works. Many different tips with boric acid in YouTube

I have made food for them based on a recipe found in youtube. Include boric acid, oil/fat and flour. They seem to like it a lot but go belly up after eating. Works. Many different tips with boric acid in YouTube

went to have a look the other day, and bought a few things, including a kilo of their own brand mayonnaise for my coleslaw. That sucks compared to Makro mayo => everything in the whole Go wholesale must be no good!

... Maybe she was too curious to check what are those open cables at base of many street light poles..

As I already got a replacement bamboo trunk and concrete piece to put under the trunk, I think I will just cut it off and install the bamboo in place of it and fix the shower properly to bamboo. Just wondering if worth treating with some wood stain or something else easy, or just install au naturel and replace either with new bamboo or aluminum profile whenever it gets bad enough

I was also considering to use aluminium profile instead of bamboo, but felt bamboo trunk would kind of look nicer to my eye than sterile white painted aluminium profile (that sure would last forever), knowing that no matter hot to treat it, it would not last as long as the aluminium Many years ago I installed an outdoor shower to a palm tree which at the time was alive and kicking. Few years ago it died and dropped the leafy branches without growing new ones. Now the dead palm tree has rotten (both inside the trunk as well as roots) to the extent that I need to do something about it, otherwise the shower will fall down in not too distant future. Just bought a thick bamboo trunk and few smaller sticks to make some supporting structure around. well, don't really have good place to soak, esp for months as would like to do the job in next few days or so. I read from some page that soaking in boric acid solution would be good, however that would need to be done soon after the bamboo has been cut, not for one that has dried out long time already so presumably not good for me either. Treating with diesel also not really good idea for my application as don't want the everlasting smell...but how is this paraffin, is that something that does not smell like diesel, and could possibly be applied with just a brush? Several years ago I made grilles out of around 1 inch bamboo sticks to hide aircon units from eyes, and just applied some Sadolin wood stain to them and they are all still okay, however they are under the roof so that they never get rain nor direct sunlight.

Any recommendations how should I treat dry bamboo poles/sticks for outdoor installation (will be fully exposed to sun and rain)? Bought some dry bamboo and wondering if should varnish or oil them to increase life before installation. Is it better just let them be as is, or treat with something?

Understand, not counterintuitive to me. My problem is that I want to have high pressure as mostly use the hose to spray or wash something...

Yeah - seems the pressure difference at pump with and without sprayer is fairly small due to size and length of the hose. Actually the problem would be not much less even with the std pressure switch setting as the pressure seems to remain at around 3bar (i.e at cut off level) when using the hose. Might even be worse if the pump would stop and start frequently, causing heat from that start-stop cycle. However, as my watering needs as well as other uses for my garden hose are not too long lasting, I will stick to the 1/2 inch one as the 5/8 is substantially less convenient to handle e.g when washing something etc. But clear, if would need water with extended times, would need to have larger hose to reduce the load to pump/motor

Yes understand. Re 305 pump, seems my 10yrs old works about same as neighbors new one what comes to power use at a certain pressure/volume level. Your 20yrs ago pump may have had different spec esp the pressure switch setting, maybe switch set so that pump can not heat too much even if it could supply water at 3+ bars if swich adjusted so Even today's pumps have default different settings dependent on model (guess smaller ones have lower as they simply can not go higher with any meaningful supply). And as I have done, you can tune up a bit as long as you don't need the pump to run for extended periods.

Both statements probably equally true...sure the 15-20k baht multi-stage Grundfos pumps can move more water at higher pressure than the usual wp-305-405 single stage small-household Mitsus - however makes hardly any difference if you set the pressure switch to 3bar on both, and only use water for ordinary household purpose for 1-2 persons for shower, bathroom sink, kitchen and laundry etc. But if you need more supply (e.g for family of 6 with all taking shower/bath simultaneously, with washing machine, dishwasher and garden watering running at same time) - esp so if you want water to come with higher pressure and set the switch to 4 or 5 bar, you can get that from multi-stage pumps (regardless of brand) by just adjusting the pressure switch as long as you have picked a pump that has enough (and large enough) stages, driven by large enough motor. Limit at the end is your breaker amp size... Alternatively if you install 2 or more of those Mitsus in parallel to cope with the higher usage moments, you are fine as long as you dont need much more than 3bar at pump when tap/shower is open, going higher than that wont work with Mitsus (unless you put two of them in series) But for people like me, with one person household with a random visitor, rarely having more than one tap/valve open simultaneously, such higher capacity pump or multiple single stage ones would be simply waste of money, kind of like installing a 20kw water heater for my shower for which 4.5kw (out of the 6kw adjustable heater) is enough to have nice warm shower... In my home country is usual to have 100-150m deep well, into which you drop a long multi-stage (often Grundfos) pump - in such application the Thai Mitsus would only generate heat, no water! The real learning for me out of this was that the nominal 300w actually does not mean much as in reality the motor uses more than the nominal almost always when it runs, and that if you use the pump in normal use case (shower, bathroom sink, garden watering), the real power is about double. Have not given any thought to the whole issue before actually, but that's how it seems to be

the pump motor nominal power in label is 300w. pressure switch spec for wp-305 is 2.4 start and 3.0 stop, and this is how my neighbor new pump actually works. as said, few years ago I actually tested how much pressure the pump can do, and as result set the cut off to about 3.5. I recall he pump itself can make close to 4 however not obviously with any meaniful flow. With small flow like house tap or shower, it keeps at 3+ But it is obvious that the power motor takes within the switch start-stop range is way more than the 'nominal' - I guess the motor nominal power is defined in state when pump just moves water from inlet to outlet without having any (or at least much) pressure. Maybe can test some day out of curiosity

Took off the cowling and fan to check - it is good, no damage and solid in place. Also, pump/motor rotates easily, only minor friction from seal, no bearing sound/feeling, no issues there. Measured the current of my pump and also measured my neighbor's pump current (same model but newer). I guess I am getting to the tails of the issue. When water flow is low, just below pressure switch cutting off, my pump runs around 2.8-2.9 amps. Same test for my neighbor shows about 2.4-2.5 amps, i.e both about double the 'nominal' level. It appears the nominal value indeed is just nominal, basically pump running without much load, just pumping water out with low pressure and no load for motor to pump against pressure. What is different between my pump as my neighbor's pump though is that I have tuned the pressure switch a bit, basically adjusted the cut-off closer to the max level that the pump can make (to get higher pressure to 3rd floor). I think the std cut-off is 3bar, mine is around 3.5 according to the gauge I have. When tuning it, I recall the pump was able to make close to 4bar, however obviously needed to work hard to get there, so set a bit down from max level. Now, when using my long 1/2 inch garden hose, with or without the sprayer, the pressure remains in 3+ bar range, keeping the pump running at 2+ times current vs the nominal level. I believe this is the explanation for the heating - the motor is simply not designed to run extended times at this load level, and the thermal protection just cuts it off if used like that. The pump does it job OK to deliver water at 3+ bar load level for normal household use though, no cutoffs from that use as usage times are normally fairly short. So I guess nothing can do, it is what it is. Would be interesting to hear if someone is actually using this pump model with long run times at low pressure level without the thermal tripping - or alternatively having the same behavior as I have with higher pressure and extended runtime

Underground tank. The pump actually is cool even when the thermal will trip and stop the motor, only motor is hot. Pump has only weak thermal connection to the motor and thus dont cool the motor much.

Good point, need to check that. That could explain.

Usually using the rotation-adjustable sprayer. Pressure probably remains close to the 3bar cut limit as flow is relatively small. But I recall the heating also happened without the sprayer, just using 1/2 inch garden house with open end

Pump is being supplied from tank, without any direct connection to city water. Tank is filled from city water. No air in system. Connection is properly done, that is not the issue.

I have about 10yrs old Mitsu WP-305 water pump that has been working good feeding water to my house with fairly limited on-time as pump only runs when water used in te house. Due to reduced city water pressure, I have lately I used water supplied by the pump also for watering plants, and noticed that after a while (5-10min or so) of continuous running, the pump stops. It appears that this is due to motor heat protection stopping it. After waiting a while it just starts on its own, and faster if cool it by spraying water on it. The motor actually gets fairly hot, though not sure what exactly the temp is but feels pretty hot by fingers, thus I would guess the temp sensor that cuts the power works at about right temp In my neighbors garden have similar type of pump, though smaller size, used for watering the garden, sometimes running for hours without cutting. And that has the plastic cover on top, limiting airflow Pump does not have the plastic over on rather is in a ventilated cabinet with decent space for air. The fan at the end of the motor is ok, though the airflow produced by it is fairly weak. Turning it from the fan it rotates without any big force, though has some friction (guess due to sealing) and does not run freely like a standalone motor would. Anyone else experienced the same with similar pump? Any idea why like that and especially anything that could be done to keep it running?

For the usual house water pump (like my Mitsubishi WP-305), water for sure flows thru if the water in tank is higher than the outlet of the pump (or if supply pressure is higher than the outlet pressure). If the motor is not running, the pump simply acts as check valve (one directional valve). Water will not flow in reverse direction even if pressure in outlets side is higher than supply side (i.e water fill not flow from 3rd floor of your house to underground tank even if pump is off). The actual valve element and load spring is under the cap on suction side. Actually, if city water pressure is high enough, the pump will not even turn on when you use water in the house (as long as the pressure does not drop below the pressure switch threshold). Where I live, used to be like that at times until couple of years ago (pressure sometimes 4-5bars), though seems the pressure level in the system has been reduced to around 2bars so that pump always kicks in if use water nowadays Then it is a separate question where and why the water flows, esp if it should not flow. If all taps closed on pressure side and water still flowing, there is a leak somewhere. But pump works as it should

If you live in developed world and use pirated content esp torrents, use VPN to hide your ip and avoid lawyers going after you

Which countries you have found to work best for this purpose?

... Okay... So for a single farang without any other local income than interest on local bank account, the filing limit is?

Have a walk around the Arab bars in the area behind marine Plaza hotel. After just walking around all farang focused bars in Pattaya are quiet! And I doubt they serve Guinness, possibly under the counter.