ktm jeff

1 hour ago, thaiguzzi said:

Electrex World Ltd.

UK company, most of their stuff is UK made.

Fireblade stators, rotors, reg rectifiers, cdi units, race ignition systems, IN STOCK, all new, no S/H.

Not cheap, but quality never is.

This is what i would buy , instead of suspect quality genuine Honda parts.

9 hours ago, canthai55 said:

Replaced the complete electrics in my BSA with Honda ...

No issue

Banished the Prince of Darkness

Its not high praise , saying Honda electrics are better than a 50 year old BSA with Lucas. I have seen adverts for better quality regulators/rectifiers . I would start with these.  The goo on the ECU may be a reaction to some chemical spilt on there years ago. ECU may be fine. Need fully working electrics to find out.  I had a 96 blade , in maybe 98. Nice bikes , apart from the 16" front wheel.

^ Maybe old / stale / contaminated fuel. Either find a Benzine station with more turnover , so fresher fuel , or use E10 95/91. Or Shall V=Power.  

Kwasaki , I believe E20 has 95 RON octane rating , same same as E10 95 , just with 20% Ethanol. E85 may (?) have a higher RON rating , but can only be used in "Dual fuel" vehicles. There are RON , MON and AKI ratings. Thailand uses RON and Ethanol.   The OP,s bike , if used regular , will be fine with E10 91 or E10 95.  If there is a Shell garage nearby , i would use Shell V-power , which is said to maybe contain just 7 % Ethanol , and is RON rated at 95 octane.  Thank you (danke) eisfeld for the information. Every day is a school day. 

6 hours ago, alx123 said:

Hey guys, So I want to buy a Click any thoughts? Btw, Yamaha's are trash

 

Imagine trolling your own thread ????

My thoughts are , the Honda will serve your needs very well for a number of years. It wont be your biggest  financial disaster. You will be fine on it for years.  ABS will improve your chances.  However , I believe , as do many within the motor industry , that Yamaha build quality and value overtook Honda around 6/8 years ago.  

You do know there is an elephant in the background , yes ?.

23 hours ago, JimmyTheMook said:

 

Yeah coz Yamaha are trash compared to Honda.

And herein lies your problem.  You need to get out more , and take a honest look at the Yamahas.

14 hours ago, thaiguzzi said:

Concur,

if it was'nt painted green, i'd swear it was a 47k Lifan 200.

Hideous.

Stick with the water cooled (can't believe i'm saying this!) established KLX250

Just a few more years lads , and thaiguzzi will come over to the darkside.  Watercooled , EFI , ABS.  Come on tg , you know you want too.  

I thought these were available in Australia. Maybe not. They will compete with the Honda CRF 230 that in built in India/Brazil (?). Not much cheaper than the KLX 250 , but lower and lighter. This will appeal to many new riders. Im still hoping for a KLX 450.   ????

Ive only ever done it on my own bikes , when i have been late renewing the tax.  If the greenbook , and your paperwork is in order , i believe its just a matter of going to a main DLT depot , and paying the tax / government insurance that is owed from the previous years. On a 250 cc bike , this is about 600 Baht per year.

1 hour ago, nahkit said:

I've had a 150i click for almost a year now and whilst I quite like it, I'm not sure I would buy another one. I find it fun to ride but I'm not sure about the overall quality. To me it has a plastic feel to it and within the first three months I had rust showing on one of the bolts and the area around the on/off dial became scratched and worn looking very quickly. I think I've only ever managed to get the seat to close about three times in the year that I've had it and the wife absolutely refuses to use it as she can't get used to the remote fob system. She's not alone in this, twice I've loaned the bike to friends to pop down the shops having shown them how to use the remote only to get a phone call to say they can't get it to start again.

 

I've had a couple of rides on the Aerox 155 and to me that feels more sturdy and is noticeably quicker when accelerating. If I was in the market for a new bike then I think I would chose the 155 Aerox over the 150i Click.

As thailand49 has noticed , because of the poor design and build quality of the Honda Click , they bend in the middle. This is why you cant always shut your seat , the catch wont line up. This also contributes to the poor handling.  With their better design and build quality , and quality suspension , the Yamaha is a much safer bike. You cam also have the Aerox with a true ABS system , unlike the awful CBS system of Honda. And ABS is not available on the PCX. With Yamahas holding their re-sale value better than Honda , and often being cheaper to buy in the first place , its a no brainer.

The orange one reminds me of a Laverda 750s Formula.  Wonderful bikes.

3 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

I guess it depends on the bike. In my case, KTM, there is nothing the mechanics can do. The ECU has it's fixed maps and that's it. It seems until now nobody in the world found a way to hack that ECU (except physically breaking it open and then messing around with it). 3rd party additional components are connected in between like i.e. the real air sensor measures 30 degrees but the manipulated signal shows 20 degrees to the ECU so that the ECU adds more fuel. And other "tricks" like that.

Personally I think emission controls are a good idea - but sometimes it just goes too far.

And it seems for the future mechanics (or even electronic specialist) can't do anything anymore on engine settings for many bikes.

Did you solder in a reister into the circuit , fooling the ECU into running a colder map.  Not many KTM experts in Thailand. KTM factory do sell performance parts. 

There is a AXA insurance shop on the outside of Tha Phae gate , near Mc Donalds. Insurance first class will be around 8-10 K.

thaiguzzi , nice to see a stock of TY engines. What engine is the rather large piston out of. I seem to recall you mentioned it in a long past post. Marine ?.

A machinist near KK. Only 1 person came to mind. TG. I also know of another good lathe guy in Chiang Mai.

Good idea to check the valves and ensure the carb is "in-tune".   Next , check the tires , VERY carefully , for de-lamination , bulges etc , including inside the tread pattern , for cracks. Then have the wheels balanced.  Check for cables ( throttle / clutch ) and wires , that could be vibrating against the plastic headlamp surround / casing. Are these secure .  Rubber mounting the engine may require new brackets , but if easy enough , may be worth a try.  Also check bars , mirrors , control switches and levers. The levers can wear on their pivots - grease them.  You wont be able to increase the power , so going down 2 or 3 teeth on the rear sprocket wont improve top speed ( as you suspected ) but will lower the revs at a given cruising speed. Out of curiosity , what is the bike and its price. Good luck.

Thank you for the information. I will look into this oil.

2 hours ago, samuttodd said:

https://www.lazada.co.th/-i345444304-s673978992.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1

 

Amsoil 20w50 100% SYNTHETIC and a filter to boot!bl

On 6/23/2019 at 1:40 AM, jackdd said:

Motul is just way over priced. They have to get the money back which they spend on all the advertising

 

You understood something wrong

So here in Thailand it's completely irrelevant if it's 10w-50, 15w-50 or 20w-50, because it won't be below -20 degrees celsius.

But as mentioned before, sometimes it's above 40 degrees celsius, so using an engine oil which is good up to 50 degrees makes sense

What i meant was , as your chart shows , the blue numbers are 0 degree centigrade numbers. Not much use in Thailand. the important figures are the red ones. As it gets over 40 degrees , you want an oil to have a higher  VI grade than 40. A 15/50 will cover between  - 25 and + 50. I have yet to find a fully synthetic , or a 100% synthetic oil , of the grade 20/50. Motrex does a 10/60 - at a price.

There should be another engine code other than JS150. Maybe something like 156 FML. Check near the oil drain plug. Your engine seems to be based on the Suzuki GS 125. Many of these "type" of engines are based on either Suzuki or Yamaha.  Valve clearances ; (OHV - IN = 0.06 mm. EX = 0.08 mm).  (OHC - IN = 0.08 mm. EX = 0.10 mm). These are good base figures. Set on compression stroke.  These engines run hot , use 10/50 or 15/50 oil. The carbs dont like too much ethanol , so use E10 rather than E20.

I also use Elf ( Total ) Moto 4 Tech 10/50 Fully Synthetic , from the Honda shop , near the bus station in Chiang Mai. The first viscosity number ( 10 or 15 ) isnt really important here. Your engine oil will rarely be below 15 degrees Celsius. I believe Shell Rimula is a "EF" energy efficient / "EC" energy conservation oil. Rotella was not. So it could effect wet clutches. Rotella t6  is a 5/40.