bluejets

Banned in some places.

Elcb is an earth leakage circuit breaker, a part component of your rcbo so directly relative. Call it what you will, safety cut, earth leakage, all work the same. No, what I said was , without a low earth loop impedance, no circuit breaker size or type will trip on an earth fault. So if you have a lighting circuit with fittings requiring an earth and are not earthed, and the fitting develops an earth fault, the breaker on its own will never trip. It will simply sit there with a live framework waiting for someone unsuspecting to touch the now live frame and get their <deleted> kicked at best. If there happens to be an earth leakage attached to the circuit, be it in the form of an rcbo or a seperate breaker and elcb unit, the circuit will trip if the imbalance is 30mA or more, depending on the unit and its settings. Maybe you should stick to wood chipping I think.

Could only be assumed, not calculated, and best assumption would be many megohms, in which case, any breaker type is never going to trip. Different story if you use an rcd as it works on imbalance between active and neutral. However, these should never be relied upon as being an alternative to good earthing practices, as the elcb is an electronic device, and electronic devices do fail from time to time. With a good earthing system in place, if the above fails, and the earth loop impedance is at the correct levels, the rated breaker for the job will trip. Note .......it is assumed this instance to be an earth fault.

Another consideration, all_be_it at additional initial setup cost, is to run a storage type hot water system directly off your grid. Isolate the circuit with a timer and relay say from 4 pm to 9am next day so unit only heats during daylight hours, hense using some of your valuable self generated energy and storing that energy in the form of hot water for night time use. Works similar to a storage battery. Only downfall is when it is rainy weather and system uses grid power. There are ways to circumvent this also I might add.

1.5sq mm is fine for lighting. Breaker size , as well as type, is determined by application, not cable size alone. Both are determined by the earth loop impedance measured or calculated. Under the above conditions, a 16A breaker usually fails to meet the requirements and a 10A would be used. Same conditions apply to power circuits where in some cases even a 16A breaker is too large for the conditions to be met. Currently in Aus they are looking at the possible introduction of 12A breakers for 2.5sq mm power circuits. Best approach to avoid possible problems, is keep runs short, use several final sub circuits in place of just one or two, use larger (4sq mm ) earth on the final sub circuit.

Sorry but cannot even remotely imagine flopping out a phone or a card for that matter, to pay for 20baht items at the local market or street food in say Bkk. Worldwide one could imagine many places where this "cashless bulldust" simply will not work. Yuppies gone mad, and most run the countries sadly.

It's a well know, well used method of off the cuff quotation used world wide, so apparently you are not familiar with the building trade and your comment is therefore dismissed as one of the usual know all know nothing yobbos .

Any current cost per sq metre for say 2 bedroom single story concrete block house or a link to the info. Our land is in WangPeam...SiChomPhu. Would prefer to use some UdonThani builder with a reasonable reputation/ ability.

Op definetely needs a professionally designed system here as it is clearly way over the head of the Op and most of the weekend experts putting in their 2 bobs worth here. As already pointed out, a stab in the dark requirement for 400A is a dead give away, as is the zero knowledge of 3 phase requirement. Clearly PEA would never allow such a single phase imbalance on their system. One would also expect an application for supply to the PEA of those numbers.

These days everything should be on an elcb/ safety switch/ safety cut whatever you choose to call it. Make the frig/freezer a dedicated circuit by all means but there is absolutely no reason not to consider safety overa bit of melted ice cream ( maybe). Old wives tale putting frig on a separate unprotected circuit, went out with the dinosaurs....

Come on......do we have to spell it out for you..???....????????????????

Must be a right pain to be on only USD$2500 a month in Thailand.... Have to give uo the Dunkin donuts...????????????

Yessss...!!! That was it...thanks. Must have asked this mob here a dozen times but just a blank look. When I said about your solution, answer comes, yes, of course...you must do. Fug me, never get the guts of Thai reasoning even after all this time. Stupid me had to ask this morning, where are we going...supposed to be shopping for some electric bits.....funny look.....eat of course,....yup, should have known.????????

Clipped in an AIS sim....registered it and put in 100 baht credit to start. This was last week when we first arrived. Didn't use it until about 3 days later, wouldn't work .....all thai notice comes up.....wife said , no credit. Mmmmmm...??? Ok ...put in another 300 baht and left again for 3 days ,....went to use it today...yup...same message..no credit. Been caught with similar before and wondered if there was some so-called "promotion" I need to turn "OFF" not to get credit drained. Asked about it but get the answer yes, .........so how do I do..??? ......yes ....no sense this end so thought I'd ask here. As it stands, I leave the bloody thing off ...stuff the phone...no good to me when I need it anyhow.

This bloke is typical of those like overpaid pollies and executives who loose touch with the price of a pack of butter etc. How they become millionaires has to be sailing close to the wind of most countries taxation laws as it is clear it isn't by any brain cell capacity.

Don't be surprised if you need to provide a full original birth certificate if, at the time of your application, your current passport expires and therefore not a valid document. Good luck expecting the Aus embassy to call you or even email you other than if you are in a "fault" senario.

Bondcrete or lockcrete depending on where you come from. Can be added to any plastering finish or just painted on to the raw block. Usually white like pva glue and dries clear and waterproof. I doubt it would make any difference which way up the block was laid.

There is no "simple electronic" answer or application to this problem. No electronic device on it's own should be placed in a safety system and relied upon 100 percent, the latter of which is what will happen. I doubt this whole idea will ever see the light of day as there are too many variables that would make the system fail.

Don't be such a cheap charlie and expect the Thai system to pick up your tab if you get sick or injured. There may be no requirement but it shows you have little respect for the people/country you plan to holiday. I get mine every time, not used it as yet but it is certainly reassuring to know it is there if and when required.

When you approach the sellers for a quote, might be a good idea to take the room size (L,W and H), which side of the house it will be on (N,S,E,W)and any extra heat loads you might generate. Otherwise, if you ask for a mini split, you might get the "no have" response.

Don't touch those things with a 40ft pole. They brought them in down under about 20 years ago and not worth a cracker. If it breaks down, you first need to contact(not necessarily in this order) a refrigeration mechanic. Then, a plumber, Then a lecky Then a computer programmer If you're lucky, one may be able to find the solution. Most of the info is kept secret by the manufacturers and only released to "service agents". If the night falls below 5 degrees C , they don't work at all. Needless to say all the yuppies bragged about how fantastic they were, and now not one to be seen anywhere, gone the way of the Dodo ( thankfully) I'm wondering why the Op needs a whopping great 3 phase system for a hot water system (no idea why instantaneous also) There are single element single phase storage systems out there that have done the job extremely well for the last 80 years or more, and they would be reasonably efficient. Power requirements perhaps 3600w , (250 litre) can be run off a single solar panel array direct (no inverter required) to boot.

Largely correct. Hotplates must also have isolators (not ovens though) There are alternatives to using RCD's such as the placement and protection of wiring in such a way as to negate the use of any residual current device. Usually with fixed installed devices such as water heaters and electric stoves this normally presents no problem in theory so long as the earthing system is initially in place and tested on occasion. However, the whole exercise was to give an alternative in case anyone was opposed to the extra cost of the RCD BUT as it turned out, guessing by common sense approach, much better to use the RCD to begin with, as the wiring conditions are rather expensive to implement. All lighting and GPO's must be covered by RCD anyhow. So basically everything on RCD, or rather RCBO units preferred. Where any mains enter an installation in out of sight arrangement i.e. inside a wall cavity, the cabling must be protected by an earthed sheet metal cover the entire length. Assumind the distance from the inner wall sheet and the cable is 75mm or less, which is probably 99.9% of buildings in Aus anyhow. So again, just do it they way the SAA rules suggest. The incentive not to take short cuts by the way, is the way the authorities can come back at a lecky up to some 7 years later, even if retired and business is closed. Hence many lecky's have found, by others bad misfortune not to realise, insurance cover needs to extend 7 years into retirement. Just a by-the-way bit of dribbling on.........????

I would like to see a reference to this .....either your explanation is out of wack or the way you read the data is incorrect. There is no way bare resistance wire would be placed directly in the water for instance. What was a common arrangement some 40 odd years ago, was to have a heater tube fitted into the water chamber. Inside this was the heater wire wound on a ceramic insulated bobbin. No idea what you are on about with your upstream and downstream protection devices.

For final sub-circuit wiring size one needs to know both the current draw and the length of the run from the main board. As quoted above, 4sqmm may be sufficient up to approx. 25 metres.(assuming copper) Installs also would normally require a lockable isolator, (lock in off position naturally) in this instance 3 phase, located right beside the heater unit for maintenance purposes.

https://www.worksafe.qld.gov.au/news-and-events/newsletters/esafe-newsletters/esafe-editions/esafe-electrical/2021-bulletins/september-2021/beware-of-switched-main-neutral-conductors