bluejets

Largely correct. Hotplates must also have isolators (not ovens though) There are alternatives to using RCD's such as the placement and protection of wiring in such a way as to negate the use of any residual current device. Usually with fixed installed devices such as water heaters and electric stoves this normally presents no problem in theory so long as the earthing system is initially in place and tested on occasion. However, the whole exercise was to give an alternative in case anyone was opposed to the extra cost of the RCD BUT as it turned out, guessing by common sense approach, much better to use the RCD to begin with, as the wiring conditions are rather expensive to implement. All lighting and GPO's must be covered by RCD anyhow. So basically everything on RCD, or rather RCBO units preferred. Where any mains enter an installation in out of sight arrangement i.e. inside a wall cavity, the cabling must be protected by an earthed sheet metal cover the entire length. Assumind the distance from the inner wall sheet and the cable is 75mm or less, which is probably 99.9% of buildings in Aus anyhow. So again, just do it they way the SAA rules suggest. The incentive not to take short cuts by the way, is the way the authorities can come back at a lecky up to some 7 years later, even if retired and business is closed. Hence many lecky's have found, by others bad misfortune not to realise, insurance cover needs to extend 7 years into retirement. Just a by-the-way bit of dribbling on.........????

I would like to see a reference to this .....either your explanation is out of wack or the way you read the data is incorrect. There is no way bare resistance wire would be placed directly in the water for instance. What was a common arrangement some 40 odd years ago, was to have a heater tube fitted into the water chamber. Inside this was the heater wire wound on a ceramic insulated bobbin. No idea what you are on about with your upstream and downstream protection devices.

For final sub-circuit wiring size one needs to know both the current draw and the length of the run from the main board. As quoted above, 4sqmm may be sufficient up to approx. 25 metres.(assuming copper) Installs also would normally require a lockable isolator, (lock in off position naturally) in this instance 3 phase, located right beside the heater unit for maintenance purposes.

https://www.worksafe.qld.gov.au/news-and-events/newsletters/esafe-newsletters/esafe-editions/esafe-electrical/2021-bulletins/september-2021/beware-of-switched-main-neutral-conductors

Have to take a closer look at the complete arrangement ( couple of minutes spare ) However my first concern is the switched neutrals, depending on the rest of the earthing system not shown naturally.

I'll bet they put you on their "watch list".........???? Nothing like "doing it live".......tip(it's only on at night).......DOHHHHH!!! cut wire....mmmm...might have been more believable if you pulled the twist and tape joint apart, now you'll have the PEA out looking for an owl with a pair of side cutters.

Many countries use a primary fuse and/or disconnect link for such purposes but rarely ever seen one in Thailand. Same as for a cover or a seal to begin with as Crossy says. Why don't you simply go and ask them or are you Thai..?? Reason being in my experience Thai seldom ever want to ask, be it directions or whatever, no idea why. As for cutting the seal, do it down under and you are dead meat so-to-speak.......possibly if you are a Thai local you might get away with it, but if farang, then the two rule system most likely applies..????

Response from a dilutie as they always know best, mainly as they don't know any better.

As quoted. it's not the voltage that is the problem, it's the current. As for 41A, dream on.

Try searching for the particular brand.

Genuine or not, commonly known in electrical trade as "telephone connectors"...as that is about all they are good for.

There is a minimum separation of 100mm there as well if you want to follow recommendations. Hope is that you don't intend to include them both in the one mounting block or fitting.

It has that property but the separation also covers against underground blow ups. The last thing one wants is mains supply down a comms cable and worse yet, injected into comms company gear as they WILL track you and hold you responsible for any damage to their gear.

Real builders work in mm. Uni students, amateurs and TV shows work in cm.????

At a guess I'd say he has to determine if the existing are PAL or NTSC system. One will not work on the other............

In all my years as a lecky, I have never used building cable (single insulated) underground. Reason being, I have seen too many blow up as the insulation deteriorates (especially the red insulated) and as water creep in. Insulation goes like that of a dry clay creek bed. Most that do use it are simply trying to save some bucks without considering the long term effect. Double insulated (TPS) best approach if you want it to last. If any low voltage cabling is run in the same conduit, it to should be mains rated insulated and sheathed cable. Any comms should be a separate conduit entirely and spaced some 300mm horizontally away from mains conduits.

I'd like to bet 2 cents in the dollar one could fit a lead and plug to the internal connections and plug the thing in higher up. Won't be anything that will save your drive unit not matter how much "grease" you spread around.

Also not to forget to switch the front panel rocker switch to "240V" before use.

Well the bucket idea comes from a commly used principle in pump stations but the drawback is ( as there always is at least one) one has to pressurise the bucket with (ideally) nitrogen during high water conditions. Cannot see why moving it up would be a problem that cannot be overcome.

Something about the "cheap" would be of concern I'd imagine. Plenty of insurance....??? mmm...maybe of no help considering the use of possible non-compliant equipment. As they say, the bitter taste of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of cheap price is forgotten.

Good luck with keeping flood water out.???? Even with a bucket strapped up side down over it, it would be subject to water entry via cable entry or damage from condensation. Best suggestion, move it up out of harms way.

That's probably because you have no info on the situation. Fact is, everything was fine, bookings done, plenty of time. Then Thai Airways decide to shift the flight times for the flight which leaves no options open. If not enough, then the connecting flight did the same. Managed to find a solution by contacting wife's brother who will buy a couple of sims and send them over donkey express to Aus, maybe 10 days. Plug in, activate. Call wife's brother to add some credit, done.

If they keep changing flight times like they did to us the other day, just when we had everything booked including connecting flights and hotels, they'll be less a couple of travellers each year from this end. Cost enough as it is having to now transit bruddy Sydney, now extra flights, extra hotel stays.

Never ceases to amaze me how some cannot read and understand written English. I did say .............. I am already aware one CAN purchase a sim in Aus for Thailand BUT they are largely only loaded with data access, very few with phone credit and those that are, only a few baht which is essentially useless.

Coming over next month and time between arrival at Suvarnabhumi and our departure on a domestic flight is rather short. Won't have time to "go shopping" for a sim card and wondered if anyone knows where I can get one here in Aus before I leave. Saw a couple when I Googled the subject but just get flooded with offers of mostly "data offers like 30 gig for 15 days" but with <deleted> all, if any, credit for phone calls. 15 baht was the best I saw. Family are on AIS mainly but any of the main one would be ok.