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canthai55

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Posts posted by canthai55

  1. If the displacement - bore and stroke - stock, then the stock pipe dimensions are probably as good as it gets. Increase diameter of exp. chamb. to move peak power up the RPM band, narrow and lengthen to provide more of a 'torque' type powerband. If you use the stock pipe, might be a good idea to cut it in half lengthwise, remove the accumulated carbon sure to be there, and reweld back together. If the pipe is not so thin with use over the years that it is hard to butt weld. In that case get a strip of thin flat bar and weld that to the EC, keeping the original cut line in the middle of the new flatbar. This will keep you away from the edge and allow for enuf heat to be used. Hopefully.

  2. If you want a road bike, do you mean hiway ? City ?  I spent many hours welding expansion chambers in my 2 stroke racing days, never had a power valve motor, but understand for a street bike they are the way to go, as you vary the exhaust timing but for a bike for the hiway, where you run 100K plus more or less constant, a properly designed and built exhaust will get you by. Did Yamaha ever import RD's here ?  Never seen one. Or Suzuki had the ATC (?) system, never seen one of them here neither.

  3. I rest my case ...

    The clutch allows the scooter to idle with the engine running by isolating the rear wheel from the transmission. It operates in much the same way as the variator, being of a centrifugal design. As you twist the throttle, the engine increases its speed and the belt drive spins the clutch. As the rotational speed increases, centrifugal force causes the clutch inner to expand, and begin driving the clutch outer, which is connected to the rear wheel

    Correct info is essential for those not conversant on the subject.

  4. True. I should have quantified - when I had my H1 and my Norton drag racing was my thing. This is what I was referring to as fast. On the handling part - the H1 had a hinge under the seat somewhere. Scary to ride that thing quickly around corners. Panic stop from 70 mph and the front brake lever came back to the grip when you were still going 30-40. Learned then why they do not put buttons on motorcycle seats - you would bite them off.

  5. Don't care what the Chinese - who made the product in your link - call it. That is not a torque converter.

    What is the torque converter?
    In brief, the torque converter is a type of fluid coupling, which allows the engine to spin somewhat independently of the transmission. It is responsible for pressurizing automatic transmission fluid, a pressurization that supplies the force necessary to shift transmission gears.
     
  6. Try it. Just a little drag is all you need - not enuf to slow you down, close as I can describe it is it seems to 'stretch' the bike, almost making it seem longer, which in turn makes it more stable. I realize this makes no sense, but is as close as I can to describing it. And when/if you see the Twit described above, jam that rear on and the bike will tend to oversteer, especially leaned over. You for sure do not want the understeer which will happen if the bike stands up, or you will be eating Mr. Twits grill. Same as if you snap the throttle closed mid-corner - bike stands up. Always best I have found to ride the bike with the throttle.

  7. Try it. Just a little drag is all you need - not enuf to slow you down, close as I can describe it is it seems to 'stretch' the bike, almost making it seem longer, which in turn makes it more stable. I realize this makes no sense, but is as close as I can to describing it. And when/if you see the Twit described above, jam that rear on and the bike will tend to oversteer, especially leaned over. You for sure do not want the understeer which will happen if the bike stands up, or you will be eating Mr. Twits grill.

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