Elkski

He seems to forget that he and his minions couldn't even figure out how to accept a million free quality vaccines

But but it's not a brown envelope that you said we shouldn't take anymore. It was a red ✉️ . Chiland it already is.

Conversation went like this. How can we get more money out of foreigner's and not have those 2019 hordes everywhere? Maybe Iet them buy a Rai in certain areas. Make sure they are rich. Let's try it out for 10 years. Actually I give up. could anyone imagine how this brainstorming session goes.? I bet they eat lots of bananas in that cage. Spider mike summed it up best. Leave home country and move to where my Lambo costs 2x. Roads are scary deadly, low English skills off the top shelf. Build a house on .4 acre in a select community. I imagine they would have to hire foreign trustworthy ex mil security for that prime theft kidnapping spot. Oh yeah the police work for highest bidder until their real boss calls. Your rich so move to where the bad air will take 3 years off your life.

Love the machine translation

8.3 mil kg that's roughly 20 mil pounds. Or 60-80 mil servings. So 1 weeks supply for 70 million people. Sounds like a big stockpile at first but not really if I did my math correctly?

It's the principal and underlying meaning. We just want your money. If they said "we promise to take care of every tourists health equal to if you were our brothers and sisters. And to do that we figure we can if we charge everyone this new fee. And this fee will let us end the insurance requirements that are hard to verify." It sure would go down better than feeling the tug at your shorts trying to depants you.

Many good tile guys on YouTube and great forums. Johnbridge.com is the best place. So many horror stories just like this one. And many tile pros help homeowners fix them. I hate to use the word hate but I hate the old this is how we did it for 30 years line. I disagree that these products are to lower labor costs. They are to improve quality. Tiles are so big now. 2x4' is common now. I hated installing 18-24" ers because they break your back. Now they have suction cups with battery's and vacuum assist. IMHO flooring is the base for everything and I see it as more or less permanent. I used to worry about flooring meeting some height I thought was important. Now I say do it right and deal with step up transitions. You soon become used to transitions to 2 cm. It does require planning to order the right transition's as they target different heights and usually come in 3- 4 meter segments and you may only need 1 meter. If transition is to wood I make them myself. I also know people hate the idea of expansion joints every 7 meters in a big room. But they make some with different colors of plastic expansion filler to match you grout color. Also many tiles have 2 nubs on each face to provide a minimum spacing. I know in Thailand many times the spacing is like 1/2 mm or almost touching. I admit that looks good but makes a membrane even more of a necessity. I use a leveling system and they work well but can't do miracles. To me the laser system is most important tool I use. So much better than any line. A flat floor after SLC is a dream to work on. One thickness of thinset and the tile will level up so easy. Trying to make a floor level with varying thinset thickness is an art and most times there is a max and minimum spec on these thinsets that gets violated. Thinset is not a hole filler. I've had to fire subs before. It's no fun and for sure adds time and expense One time cops were called. Cop told me this happens more than you would think. The main thing is to remove all of the defective work so a good job has a chance going forward. I made that mistake before.

My example of finding day workers you find and hire for 800 baht was fiction. I was basing this off what I sometimes do here in USA. I go to a certain home Depot and pick up day laborors. Many have cars and are in the country legally. I provide all materials and tools and close supervision. Pick up, lunch and drop off at train station with fare if they dont have a pass. I many times work along side them but most work as hard as any worker I've ever worked with. I actually thought about trying to be the schluter distributor in Thailand at one time. It's a German company. I forget the brands of edging I have seen used in Thailand. I see ardex has a Thai website. Ardex is best known for paint on coatings and such. They show a decoupling membrane on the US site but not Thailand. https://www.ardexamericas.com/product/ardex-ui-740-flexbone/ https://ardex.co.th/ The popularity has really been growing in the US but new products are adopted slowly by some trades people who have been doing it the same way for 30 years. Usually water leaking failures in showers don't show up for 20-30 years. Long past home warranty periods. It adds cost and another step that requires following the products lable. Between a membrane and a tile you need to use unmodified thinset. Back to OP. Pile of sand huh. Shounds like they were going to use the dry mud bed method. And worse they probably would have mixed the cement bags and sand right on the floor in a big pile like I witnessed before. Dry mud beds are great to slope shower floors and such and great with membrane on top with integral membrane drain flange. And tied into membrane going up the walls. This is how I do it. But there is a certain ratio of ingredients and complete mixing I did not observe with the 4 guys with shovels and 1 cu m of sand pile method. There are many companies making decoupling membranes as they don't want to be dinosaurs. Look at the cross section of ditra by schluter. It has a trapezoid shape that allows a locked in thinset while allowing lateral movement. The bottom had a fuzzy under surface for adhesion to the substrate via a bonding layer of thinset. It usually come in meter wide rolls. For water proofing a 100mm wife tape is thinset on the Sean's and can go up the walls and hidden behind tile or base moulding.

The construction trades have really been evolving in many areas. Air infiltration, low VOC, ductless mini split heat Aircon ( same look in Thailand but can heat). Some of the products, sticky house wrap, sticky, stretchable window flashings, membrane showers, linear shower drains, curbless showers, etc. When I was redoing the rear of my house for the 2nd time in 20 years due to water leaking. I researched and wanted to use the most modern house wrap and window flashing method as well as using Hardie cement boards rather than stucco. I am on a bluff and get hurricane force winds and sometimes with rain. I found a crew to set up 2.5 stories of scaffolding and demo the old stucco and leave and return later when I had finished the window pulling and new waterproofing. I was lucky and found a window crew that agreed to follow my flashing schedule for the 17 windows and 2 slider doors. I have a demo on one window and off the 6 guys went only needing a bit of advice a few times. All finished in 1 long day. Basically a double window flashing using vycor plastic corners and vycor envy sticky house wrap which has no Staples like tyvex and a much lower air permability. Although there is a newer even lower perm sticky wrap now. The window guys seemed eager to learn a new method. On the tile front. I started using ditra decoupling membrane and metal expansion joints 16 years ago. There are several brands. 2 years ago I attended a 2 day schluter shower class and hands on event. I'm now a shower membrane guy. No painted on water proofing for me. If I was doing a condo in Thailand I would want a decoupling membraneon my floor. You can actually use some tape and go up the walls 3-4" and do the seams and make the room basically waterproof. But mainly the membrane is for separation to allow expansion and movement between the slab and tile mass. What happens when the Tennant below is gone for 2 years with Aircon off. His side of the slab is 35c, if your not always cranking Aircon the swing can go from 22-35c. I also believe tile should go down before any cabinets. Can't wait to hear the outcome of this. I'm the type of guy to tell the crew to stop and to hire my own workers and get down on my knees with them and chip the floor down to substrate and then tell the crew they can come do it right. If they claim it wasn't in the work order? But you have written correspondence. I'm sure 4 guys could finish in 3 days or so. That's what 10,000 baht at 800 day each

There are for sure lots of petite girls, many with tanned looking skin and dark hair. A high % don't need to shave their legs. They don't have any sexual hangups. Checks off quite a few boxes for me. I'm not sure of it all the social media or tv and bill board advertising but many pretty good looking Thai women are insecure about their looks. Nose to big, boobs to small, legs to big, chin to square, cheeks to high, and this eyebrow weird thang, etc. It's also probably party because they see so many beautiful women.

From what I understand the price to get your plans drawn up in virtual reality is very reasonable in Thailand. Maybe a good way to meet some uni students who want to make some extra cash. Also if designing a kitchen research the triangle design rule. Some of these modern kitchens are to big to be convenient. Back to tile and flooring. Using polished stone with no grout lines is the hardest to lay and you do see many mirror flat floors in Thailand so the tradesman do exist. I met a gal who was the lead at a very big commercial flooring company in BKK. She showed me lots of pictures and they looked like a first class company. She was working like a dog and sometimes slept at a room at work. She actually told me what she was seeking. A farang husband to have a condo or house in Hua hin where she could come stay 1-2 nights a week. I moved on but she was an example of a go getter for sure. Making her company owners rich. Had plans to buy or start her own flooring company.

I fell into using the lutron brand here but they are now approaching 25$. They solved a many year issue I had with a high quality dumb outdoor light transformer. For some reason a timer plugged into it changed time but worse is our daylight time change in the season's here. I want lights on 15 mins after sunset and in for a few hours and now I can control this from my phone. I don't really know if I'm using the best zlink or to link for future while house automation as I'm not trying to do that yet if ever.

Thinset is a cementatious product with no organics to mold or VOC's . Mastic has VOCs and organics. There are some very nicely laid tile jobs in high traffic public or mall areas in Thailand. Some companies know how to do it correctly. There is actually more use if the newish metal trims and joints than I see in USA. There are modified and unmodified thinsets. One must learn about the correct use for each and then make sure his installer uses the best thinset for the job. Most grouts and thinsets are permeable but that's not a problem unless there is freezing or some organics under.

1.72$ is 7-11 price for beer it's 3$ or 90 baht at happy hour and can easily be 120-180 baht or 4-6$. No value in Thailand on the beer quality or price. Street food was one of my favorite things to see and experience in 2016. Even 9f I didn't eat s ok me it was fun to see the locals grabbing BF and I did get iced coffee. Lots near Asoke station but that changed and they were gone in the next year. If 8 had read how polluted the ground and air was and how crowded the beaches were and how poor the diving was I would have gone elsewhere. My first trip was a 12 hour rush decision.

Yes SLC is smooth but thinset bonds perfectly to it. It's designed that way. If your substrate is close to flat maybe it's not needed? A diamond floor grinder is amazing but does require some skill to operate. I've seen advertisements for new grinders that use a laser guide line. Probably not available or really needed. Remember that the substrate should be pre wetted to dampness prior to spreading thinset. And SLC requires 2 coats of primer sealer prior.

No tile is flat. Many of the plank tiles have an arch baked in. It is the reason for 1/3 stagger. It can be amazing how repeatable this arc is. It's all part of the manufacturing process. Tile does have a grading system. You don't need top of the line cost wise. Cost not always corresponds to tile rating. Labor is so cheap in Thailand that cleaning up floor shouldn't cost that much labor. I hope they didn't just think SLC in the old wood area rather than entire floor. This isn't rocket science but it's close. Their is chemistry involved in the thinset and SLC. You can lay tile on most SLC within 4 hours but better next day.

Those large format tiles 1.2m have a warp to them. This limits the patterns that can be used and also dictates a thinset thickness. Check tile manufacturer requirements on that specific tile. Usually the joints can't be staggered more than 1/3 or lippage due to tile curve is noticeable. If your condo floor is free of cracks ,and I assume the older condo has settled in, I could go without a membrane. Were there any cracks in the old tile floor or now in the current view? I know how I would do the job if I wanted to make the most money and I know how I would want the job done if it was my place. I worry that unless specific steps were listed in the contract or agreement the tile co was thinking minimum work will do while you were mentioning all these proper things that this company never ever does it considered doing now. What's needed is knee pads and hammers and chisels swinging. Amazing what 4 guys, or maybe better women, can do in 8 hours if they have their heart in it. You will never know how well the whatever mud is adhered to the base substrate unless you hit it with a hammer. I saw tile laid on super wet dry mix mud using a thin slurry of some cement ( no back buttering) mixture and shortly after powder was put in the tight joints and then water poured on the joints. Not to mention 2 days before 1 meter of fill was put down and then flooded and 8 people walking and sinking 30 cm seeping the much was the compaction method. That was Vietnam. Next company is would specify every step of the process. Including back buttering each tile. And pulling every 10-20 tile for inspection. Also no adding water to thinset after initial mixing ratio! EVER! And no using old thinset. And not putting more thinset down than you can cover in 10 mins. They would hate me. But I know there must be quality companies.

DIRTFT do it right the first time. First thing is you must Forget schedule and hall finished height. Showing pictures of the steps in a correct and beautiful tile job will help you sell your condo. A step up may prevent water intrusion someday. Stepping up will add class. Trimming door or raising the sweep or door mod maybe needed.

I always use Ditra mat made by schluter either on top of wood or cement. It is an uncoupling membrane. It will add another 1/4-3/8" but it's best.

I actually enjoyed many hours watching tile crews in Thailand and Vietnam on my 11 trips 2016-2020. I never saw tile laid correctly according to my understanding of US tile standards or as a mechanical engineer.

Like I thought you hoped for a certain level. NO crew can do that and lay tile level. Let that restriction go. A step up transition is no big deal. they make beautiful durable metal transition trim in many colors. Must be ordered and planned for after SLC pour. SLC is very expensive to buy. Did you calculate how many bags required to pour 1/2" minimum ( depending on SLC. it's actually hard to pour or feather out slc to thin. Was this material expense included or do you purchase materials? A condo floor can easily be unlevel by 2-3 cm. Requires some math and topography estimates to calculate bags required. Plus 10% you don't ever want to run out of SLC once you start. Not real hard to pour with the right tools and mixers. But you don't want a crew to learn on your floor.

Don't worry about finished heights. I know one always hopes for a predicted finished height but best to install correctly and level and deal with finished height. I always remove base boards. NO quarter round for me or tile touching wood. Most SLC has a 1/2" minimum thickness requirement. So if it wasn't used before your finished height will be at least 1/2" higher assuming the condo floor is level and all thinset is removed. I suggest you buy a laser level. Should be under 6000 baht. Show us some pictures? How much of old thinset is not adhering? Was there water damage that caused the old thinset to fail? Who wants to trust old thinset in a new expensive floor? Get it all out! The bid should have included a labor figure and several days to get it back to original strong surface. It's good the Jurassic person is on your side so far. Take him to dinner ASAP

Some thinset may be coming off easy and some really being stubborn. It may require a floor grinder that uses water. Or lots of labor but that's is what's needed. Then you need lots of Lazer level marks all over and on the perimeter. Some use plastic pins in the field that are trimed to the laser level line. . seal up every last penetration with caulk as SLC will find its way through small holes and create a disaster. They need spiked shoes and a spiked roller and a few other tools. They probably have never used SLC or proper thinset for that matter. Depending on tile flatness and size is what dictates trowel notch size. All notch lines should run in linear manner under each tile. NO circles that trap air. Every once in a while tiles need to be pulled to check for 90% coverage. Thinset needs to be mixed with exact quantity of water. Maybe this math is above ability. No runny water soupy method allowed. Forget about your 50% because redoing it will cost so much if tiles start popping or are unlevel. Starting in back rooms isn't all bad if they plan expansion joints in the doorways. Tile should have expansion joints every 20feet or so. More if near a sunny window.

Yes best to remove thinset and self leveling is wonderful to lay tile onto if poured correctly. Self leveling an entire condo with many rooms is not an easy job or one for a team with no experience. For a condo assuming 50 M2 or so you should use a mixing machine and pump and hose. Hand mixing in 5 gal buckets won't work very well unless you have 10 drills going. They want to skip to the good part. Payday without doing the hard parts. It sounds like you had a detailed work expectation. I assume these steps were included in the contract? Your just going to have to stop this job before it becomes a disaster.

I too, thought you were asking for a pick up line.