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Lickey
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Posts posted by Lickey
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Jacking up a wheel, holding the top and bottom of the wheel to test the bearing is absolutly useless, unless of course the bearing is shot beyond belief, then you will have play in the bearing,
Best way is jack up the wheel, kick wheel a few times to knock off pad/shoe contact, then spin wheel, put hand on the axle or as close as you can get to the wheel, if you feel any vibration, then the wheel bearing is at fault,
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CQ, check your headlamp bulb, sometimes one filament breaks away and touches the other filament, causing a dim light,
an easy way to check this is test your main and dip beams, if it doesnt change, bulb is at fault.
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Would somebody be kind enough to tell me where they would use Loctite thread lock on a modern motorbike? and a link to the manual for that bike, thanks.
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2long, have you had the car from new? has it banged into a kerb or been regualy driven over a kerbstone for parking ect? you say the noise is from the rear now, ok, a quick way to check for rear wheel alignment is to run your hand across the tyre tread, if its smooth one way and rough when you pull you hand back over the tread, it would suggest that the rear wheel alignment is at fault, perhaps radius arm bushes worn..
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Skorchio, do you think or know you have a problem with the power steering? is the box or rack leaking oil? is the steering notchey at low speed?
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Anybody found/got it yet? i think it starts at 9pm, it was still on at 3.15am when i went to bed this morning..
Watching Giant Slalom live from Vale USA just now, its a pleasant change even from Star sports and ESPN,
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Thats right Soihok,,just read all the 18 pages of the Rossi v Moaner thing, whereas Rossi welcomes the CRT machines, and would ride one if nesasary, Stoner wouldnt,
Im really looking forward to next year with more bikes on the grid, its got to be better for Moto Gp no matter what Stoner says, ..
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Flicking through the channels tonight i found Eurosport on my dreambox, channel 233, it says in the bottom left corner "Test Run" 3480H, 30000, so im really hoping that the test run will last a long time, also, its not internet reliant, there is only 1 other sport channel, all football, and many others that do not need internet,
The on-screen display says its an unknown sattelite, but a bit of searching found it is Asia Sat 2, 78.5e, so happy viewing as long as it lasts,,,
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Just had a look round the net and found this site, seems Toyota common rail diesels use ecess fuel but in a different way to what i descibed in my earlier post,
Seems there is a prelimanary squirt before the main squirt of the injector, thus avoiding "diesel knock"
http://sonimotors.net/Toyota-Hilux-Vigo/toyota-hilux-d4d-engine.php
There is nothing new about the common rail diesel system, 1943-'46: The Common-rail (CRD) system was invented (and patented by) Clessie Cummins Wikipedia, of course its been refined over the years, but the original Cummins CRD held on for many years, Camshaft operated injectors on 10 litre engines upwards, turn the key and they start. some had a fuel pre-heat on the bottom of the fuel filter, but usually mainly discarded.
I would think the trucks TA is on about are the old Bedfords and Perkins engined trucks, you had to open the engine acces flap, hold on full throtle and push in the ecess fuel button, if it didnt start from the cab, try again, and sometime a breath of either would help,
OP, bus boxes were nearly all ZF or Eaton twin splitter, Volvo always had there own, the geartronic, but its all changed now,
http://www.scanianewsroom.com/2009/10/15/fully-automated-gearchanging-no-luxury-in-a-luxury-coach/
http://www.enginesandgearboxes.co.uk/makes/mercedes-gearboxes.aspx is still ZF,
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So what is it then for a vigo start, pre-heat or ecess fuel?
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OP, perhaps the vigo was cold, now, again not familiar with vigo start-up, does it have a pre-heat or just turn key and start?in the case of turn and start the injector pump will deliver excess fuel at starter RPM and wil give the diesel knock noise for a few seconds, whereas the pre-heat method,thats it, engine starts smoothly.
Bus engines, well, normally they come as a rolling chassis, from Merc,Volvo,Scania whoever,,, and the locals build the body on ect, perhaps they dont want to badge it up, who knows??
Around here, the evening 6.30pm BKK bound bus [leaves at 6.15pm] is running at a stand still for many hours to make sure the inside is freezing and that passengers use the blankets and ear plugs against the cold and on-board karaoke,
I think you will find many bus stations dont allow buses to have there engine running because of the fumes, so the engine was probaly hot when it started after running a few hours out of the station somewhere,
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The only way leaking injector seals can gunge up an engine is if the injectors are under the rocker/valve cover, and to block the oil pick up strainer in the sump? it really has to be severe leakage to do this, im not famillair with this engine, is it a 4cyl, 6cyl? but 4/5 hours to change the injectors? I would think they are doing something else, like replacing the valve stem oil seals, which do suffer with high commpression turboed engines. Also, the many large and small diesel engines ive serviced/overhauled/rebuilds ect have always had copper washers, no known problems, i know nowadays they are using ali washers, why? cheap, but the home enthusiast cant aneal ali washers, whereas he can copper,
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The floor is the cleanest part of the house, Mrs salon is swept 3/4/.5 times a day, but there are cobwebs and dust on shelves ect, and before coming in, everybody takes off shoes?
I complained to Mrs about this, she said grit on shoes will mark the ceramic tiles in time, fair enough, and i must add, ive never had atheletes foot,verucas, or any other foot problems associated with regular shoe wearears.
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There are lots of things to think about and consider before you settle in Thailand, if you want your home comforts, eg, mains power,piped water, sewerage, provision shops,cable/sat TV, land line telephone, and internet, life here is so much easier if you have these things, i do, and i live in Namsom, a small town of 8.500, [registed people] who knows when these services will reach out into the small villages and hamlets?
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Quote,
Any useful/reliable information will be very much appreciated
Or suggestions?
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Im with Ksawasaki on this one, usually, well, UK anyway, if you had a new engine, or recon, there would be no guarantee unless you re-newed the radiator, with the extra heat generated by a new engine, it needs all the cooling it can get, some of the older viscous fans had a lock-up plate on them, i think its on the pulley side of the fan, something like, release 3 bolts, move the fan round and the plate will click into place, tighten bolts and the fan will be on engine speed all the time, <BR><BR>Just another point, if the people who changed your engine laid the fan down flat, this will also mess up the viscous coupling quite a lot..
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For me, it has to be the Big A, not really a road vehicle but did have a top speed of 50mph,its a fert spreader, with 3 big wheels, it has a Cummins 6bta engine, 5.9 litre turbo charged, Allison 4 speed auto box and 3speed transfer box, it is mainly used for damp fen like lands in Eastern England, I never drove one on wet land, but did many miles delivering and collecting the machines for service and faults ect, King of the road!!
This link will show you pics of the Big A, and the same firm i used to service these machines for, so there you are, farming and road in one post..
Cheers, Lickey..
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I dont think sonax do a radiator flush product, they do a sealant for leaky radiators which i think by the blue crystals is what is was, these type of sealants solidify when coming into contact with air, so sealing the leak, they can be run indefinitly in a cooling system, so the mrs isnt at fault here, the op did say that the car had overheating problems before adding the stuff,
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CQ, It would have been better for us if you had stated all the problems in your 1st post, your problems seem to mutiply as you wrote, and some before you posted.
I will give my views for what they are worth.
The engine [althougth replaced ] is old, so its probaly breathing a lot, this means the pistons and bores are worn causing blowby, this eccesive blowby goes through the engine breather and then into the airfilter for re-cycling, if this is ecessive, it will play games with the pet/air mixture, and eventually choke the engine to a stop, the warmer the engine, the worse this is,
Diff noise, well, as others have said, you should have noticed a noise, on and off power, it whines both ways, it is strange that it went wrong when somchai drove your car,
Again, perhaps this noise has been with the car since you bought it, and you thought it was normal for an old car? Gearbox and rear axle oil levels should be check at least yearly unless there is signs of a bad leak.
And the Differential is a free agent, it will work normally even if the propshaft is 20degrees out of line, an easy way to explain this is imagine the deflection of the rear suspension, perhaps in your cars case, up to 8inches of rear suspension up and down movement,
Moving on to the judder on take-off, there are a few tests you can do yourself, [all these with handbrake firmly on] start engine, engage 1st, push clutch pedal till you feel a little pressure, is the pedal pumping, ie, you can feel it pushing and re-leasing your foot, if so, the presure cover plate has diaphagm problems, [warped spring disc].
Next to check the engine mounts, lift bonnet so you can see top of engine,put in 1st gear and let up clutch slowly, if the engine kicks over to the right more than 13mm 1/2 inch, then the mounts are worn and need replacing.. if they were broken, it would be apparant in every gear .
Next to check the rear mounts, this does need a bit of expertise, engage 1st, hold engine about 1000/1400 rpm, now you have to lift the clutch quickly and disengage it without stalling, as the clutch takes up under power, the whole drivetrain will jump under power, you might hear a serious knock when doing this, which will point to a worn gearbox mount or center propshaft bearing if it has one..
Theres a few things you can check yourself, if you want more checks, let us know..
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Quite right Soihok, although nothing has been posted in Moto GP or other sites, perhaps it was just a rant [which he is famous for] and exploited like some media people do,
Its taken me a long time to find the following site about next years rules and regs, the following is the best i could find, very interesting,,
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Im beginning to smell a rat with this topic, I dont know what OP hopes to achieve, but please dont prey on those who try to help others..
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As we all know, Marco was a fast and determined rider, RIP Marco..
I do have concerns about Sepangs medical facilities, on the comentators screens and on TV was a messeage that the Moto race was cancelled due to the medical center coudnt cope with another big accident , it didnt say but Axel Pons was also in the center with a nasty bang on the head, im wondering if they had medi-vac airlift to the nearest hospital? even to the close by KL airport which should have a well equipped med-center,
I would have thought a 10 lap dash would have been in order, it wont bring Marco back, but it would have satisfied the fans who travelled a long way, and im pretty sure Marco would have wanted the race to carry on, the noise and the fans cheering he could take to his grave, he lived for racing,and died for it,
Again, RIP Marco,,,,,,,,,,,,
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New carb, same problem, order a new tap as well to be safe.<BR>
Secure Your Own Nuts!
in Motorcycles in Thailand
Posted
ok, clever people, please tell me of a manufactur who uses loctite on an orignal build, and who uses it on an engine re-build? if for eg they use it on big end bolts & nuts, then the nuts are suspect in the first place, as for using it on a wheel axle, that is stupid, better to use coppa-slip, so the axle doesnt seize in the bearing/hub assembly,
1996 i bought a Kawasaki ZZR1100, had it modified with zxr 750 carb tops, this gave it many extra HPs , then a ex kawasaki race man dyno jetted it and tuned the engine, it made 137bhp on the dyno with no ram-air effect, the ram air would make another 10 bhp, and depending on use, a rear tyre would last between 2000 and 4000 miles, and some heavy 2 up with panniers touring in Europe, i live in Thailand now, and have been here 5 years, my son has my Kawasaki in UK its done 67000miles, same rear axle and nut, no loctite,
In all my years in the commercial auto trade as an engineer, only Cummins suggested using theadlock on bolts, and that was on a torque converter to a flex plate,
So come on, post the links where a modern bike manufacture uses threadlock,