sometimewoodworker

Just a FYI £5,000 from RBS to SCB January 20, 2025 21:04:00 ICT Time taken less than 60 seconds from authorising at RBS.

To get a reasonable quality one you need to start at something like the HT-19 Handheld IR Digital Thermal Imager, I paid a little over ฿12,000 you can pay a little as ⅓ the price or upwards from 3 times the price. The reviews I read said that for a non professional or semiprofessional that the HT-19 was the best value for money.

Only 8 months 😉

The reason for not using a random circuit neutral is that the recommended practice is to use an RCBO for each circuit and grabbing a neutral from a wall socket will virtually guarantee that at least 2 of your RCBO’s will instantly trip. That Thailand is just getting round to a single house RCBO doesn’t change the recommendation for multiple RCBOs just that few do it

The factory is near/just off the main R4 road and is where the make all the wood frames and benches for the tools on the main page of the site, the shop is close to/in the town centre not far from the Chedi and is quite small. I got my router table from the factory.

It is certainly possible that the OP has no knowledge of the normal terms, it is equally possible that Charlie doesn’t either. However nobody who is involved in woodworking will use the word jointer to mean a biscuit jointer. The OP doesn’t visit the forum on any regular basis, is in an area with excellent tool shops and hasn’t contributed anything to clarify what was meant, so it’s just speculation. BTW which of the premises did you visit? The shop or the production warehouse/workshop?

There are a few things, apart from the CPU, that the MbP can do that the MbA can not, or does better. So the benefits and value for money depends on your need, or want, for those. But of course the same is true for the Air. So only you can know which is best overall for you.

True. However it also has problems with UV damage and can become rather brittle. My preferred material is PP-R as I have had leaks with PVC. With PP-R once welded there is no possibility of a leak. I now only use PVC for waste water which means that any leak will cause virtually no problem .

Though I don’t know the meaning of SPA, I would be interested to know why exactly would paying for years between 2006 and 2016 (assuming that you would need some of those years to get the required number for a full pension) would not increase your entitlement. Again why do you say that. I certainly needed 35 years according to the DWP to qualify for a full pension and I can assure you I started working in the last century. This is of course a minimum and contracted out years will be excluded or extend the number required as in your case.

People generally have a reasonable idea of their health, while I certainly can’t predict the future I ams planning projects and activities for quite a number of years and have been a pensioner for coming up on a decade. I can’t predict my life expectancy but barring accidents and medical issues I will probably have 2+ decades of pension before starring at the local temple

It rather depends on when the option to take a lump sum arrives. It is extremely likely to be at the point you can claim the pension. Thus at that point you don’t have a pension far less a frozen one. If that option were available from April this year it represents just over six and a half years of pension payments. Given that the U.K. life expectancy is a bit over 82 years you would be throwing away about £100k, (if the pension age were 70) much more than that if you exceed the average lifespan by a number of years and it will take quite a few years to raise the pension age to 70. It is irrelevant if you have other income you will be loosing over ฿500,000 per year. I don’t know anyone who has the slightest grasp of math, however much income they may have, who would think that doing that is a good idea. Also if they are independently wealthy then the £80k will be insignificant and they certainly didn’t become independently wealthy by having no math ability or being unable to employ those who are not mathematically challenged. The only people for whom it could make sense are those who are virtually certain that they will die in less than 6 years from being able to claim their pension

For the majority of recipients a lump some equal to about 9 years is probably a bad deal

The state pension is an incredibly generous (for the amount you pay and get) investment usually you break even with 4 years of pension. Is the general guidance from gov.uk However you maybe able to top up previous years that are incomplete DWP will be able to advise. You need 35 years of contributions to get a full pension. you haven’t mentioned how many years you currently have but from the information in your post it is only 5! Is that correct? you should get a written statement from the pensions office, that will give you your exact position and the years that you can top up or pay in full. The online statement is only an approximate one and you need the written one to be sure despite the naysayers you would be incredibly badly advised not to make sure you have 35 years of contributions before you retire. I was able to pay incomplete and missing years, I have already got back 2½ times the amount I paid

Your suspicion is wrong. The check to see if the batteries are dead is simple. Touch both ends of the tool and you will get a green light. Touch just the line conductor (but not the end of the tool) and you will also get a green light. While, or before, touching the line connection you will get both green and red Touch only the neutral conductor (but not the end of the tool) and you will nothing Touch the end of the tool while, or before, touching the neutral connection you will only a green light So you require a light to show to know that the battery’s have sufficient charge. No light means dead, or no, batteries it is possible, I don’t know because my batteries are charged, that with dead batteries you will get a green from the line connection without touching the back of the tool. With dead batteries you will get nothing from the neutral connection.

RCBO’s come in types A AC F and B AC are in general in other countries are not permitted as the do not deal with D/C So for general use type A or type F are best FWIW I have 2 x AC’s and 1 x A MCB’s come in B, C and D tripping curves this is domestic and ignores those above D Tripping characteristics: Type B devices are designed to trip at fault currents of 3-5 times rated current (In). For example a 10A device will trip at 30-50A. Type C devices are designed to trip at 5-10 times In (50-100A for a 10A device). Type D devices are designed to trip at 10-20 times In (100-200A for a 10A device). So looking at my post above which was not very clear I was talking about MCB’s not RCBO’s