sometimewoodworker

iPad mini’s from version 4 are 802.11ac

3 and 5G are phone connections Wi-Fi is 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz. Don’t get an Ipad mini or Ipad mini 2 the software is too limited, minimum is Ipad mini 3, 2014 (Maximum OS is iOS 12.5.5) Or Ipad mini 4, 2015 (Maximum OS is Latest release of iPadOS) The 5th gen is 2019 Every iPad will work on your Wi-Fi, the older ones will have problems with some software

I wondered why I bought this small container, possibly 5 gallons (US) 555555 ????????

Though I find some of first sentence meaning impenetrable, I accept the apology

They are Thai termites so they get a diet of hardwood since there is very little softwood in Thailand/

My answers would vary between I have the time If it isn’t done right I can only blame myself If it isn’t done right I am not paying someone else for the screw ups Good exercise for me A new experience. etc

If you are trying to strip the grooves back to sound material then the flap wheel sander recommended in the other thread will do a better job

I can’t see any adhesive there. I would be inclined to try a heat gun and scraper if you are trying to strip the insulation.

That is certainly one of the last tools I would use unless the adhesive is as hard as a rock. The problem is that even if the adhesive is as hard as a rock the sander generates heat so softening the glue that then melts onto the sanding disks this causes the paper to grab onto the adhesive more than the hooks. More information (as well as pictures) will help in trouble shooting. It is also quite possible that the hook material on the sander is cheap and nasty (you haven’t given specs yet) there are replacement hook pads available.

What purpose did you buy it for? Also exactly what model did you buy? I’ve been using a verity of sanders for about 50 years so may be able to be of some help.

I certainly hope that it doesn’t vibrate very much, though cheap ones do. It also seems that you may have a faulty unit. It also isn’t clear exactly what you have. I have a tool that is both an orbital sander and a random orbital sander, in the (geared) orbital mode it runs at 320~660 revolutions per minute and 3,300 to 6,800 orbits per minute, in the random orbital mode the speeds are the same with no load but reduced if you put pressure on it So in summary the paper orbits very fast but rotates 10 times slower. If you have a disk sander it will spin fast and create sanding tracks very easily

I certainly don’t claim to be anything like Clausius, so yes that is true. I never suggested you did. However you did say that insulation was not needed if you have high ceilings as they substitute for insulation, faulty logic. Your memory seems to be even less good than your simple reading skills as the statement under is clearly incorrect as you can see from your statement above The statement under is far too simplistic and takes little account of different methods of insulation while ignoring the fact that the reflective sheet will only function well while it is clean, a condition that will not last long in most roof areas in the tropics. That a reflective barrier is an inexpensive and extremely effective way to reduce heat gain it only works if installed correctly and is easy to screw up. Absolutely. It is interesting that you see being corrected in your incorrect statements as being “unpleasantness” so it seems that you find difficulty in accepting that you are mistaken or just wrong.

That is incorrect logic. You have forgotten that there is a very intense heat source sitting over your roof and that insulation works both to stop cool escaping and heat ingress. So insulate your roof if you don’t want your ceiling producing a nice warm amount of radiant heat

You have to factor in the cost of the frames, the structure of the openings and fitting as well, just putting in good quality glass isn’t going to do much good if they can be yanked out by any one with a chain and pickup. The actual structure of the IGUs are Laminate C4+1.52+LowEC4+Ars8+C5 they have 5 layers of PVB making up the 1.52mm thickness. FWIW 1 single IGU is about 45kg, the doors use this on the inner pane The windows and doors came from Prime Asia in Bangkok the glass is from one of the major companies who make custom IGUs

That is why we have laminated (1.5mm PVB) glass in the outer skins and a different thickness on the inner of our double glazing. Our windows & doors give the opposite of a closed In felling

It certainly would make sense, I don’t have the 2 types so can’t comment, however as you are burying it you probably want the thicker one.

No. Why? It’s just black and blue not black and red. ????

You do the best you can with what you have. If it later turns out there is a problem then you can deal with it then. Bury 300mm apart as much as possible, ignore the end points closeness. Have a beer.

There are a lot of people on the forum who would not know exactly how dangerous cheap sunglasses can be if used in place of an equally inexpensive pair of safety glasses if the glasses suffer an impact Thought provocation is a good thing but starting from the right place is equally, or more, important. If you know that your audience is sufficiently well versed then no problem, however I know from experience that though people on the board may be highly educated expecting the knowledge that they need glasses with a polycarbonate or NXT/Trivex lens material is less common knowledge.

Easy and cheap to buy if he doesn’t and a versatile tool to boot ????

Don’t do that if you have any thoughts of your eyesight surviving stuff hitting your face. safety glasses are cheap enough and won’t shatter or let bits damage your corneas

You want one of these flap wheels FWIW the warranty means nothing once you have started using it

The ideal is a 300 mm separation as BJ said above so if you are going to the trouble of separating then that’s what you need. A cable fault is highly unlikely to actually “blow” though it could. It’s much more likely for the insulation to deteriorate with potentially arcing between conductors. For your CT (I’m not really clear on the use of that) certainly if it’s designed for 12V and you stick 220v down it there is a good chance of damage even more so if you shove some significant amount of amps via a fault. It is certainly possible to design for the 12V equipment to be tolerant of high voltage and current, the problem is that nobody does that as it costs money. Though is quite possible that military equipment might be designed for that at a unit cost of 100 times the civilian stuff.

@MJCM That helps for this post, but filling in your profile will help for all of them. I did specifically exclude the chain shops these include dohome, global house, HomePro, Thai Watsadu, equally of no use are any shop that is NOT a specialist electrical supply shop and a reasonably sized one at that, naturally this includes builders merchants. I do know of one, but that is hardly helpful as they are in Udon Thani. Personally I doubt that the kind of shop you need will have a significant online presence and they are unlikely to sell indirectly. It is also unlikely that the suppliers on the various online platforms will cut to length in my experience.

@MJCM I am virtually certain that a really good electrical supply shop will be able to supply one if not both. A competent quality supply shop will be holding stocks of the more common cables, NYY is one of those, and they will cut to length. You have chosen to limit the information in your profile so I don’t know if I can give relevant information, AFIR you may have given it in one of your posts. Note I am talking about a specialist electrical supply shop not one of the big chain stores.