sometimewoodworker

I would use aluminium backed bitumen tape.

The poster I was quoting bought one from shopee, but his SIM came pre-registered. My point thank you. A different situation, different problem. It certainly needs addressing but is not probably not relevant to @Digitalbanana

Did you read the post you quoted? AIS did not sell the SIM

An AppleID locked phone can not be unlocked. You can buy hundreds of AppleID locked motherboards usually for well under $5 each in Shenzhen, you can be sure that if they could be unlocked they would be in iPhones and there would be a thriving trade in stolen iPhones, there is no such trade. The only people who can get useful data from some iPhones are those who can spend tens of thousands or hundreds of thousands on the job. It is not economically viable.

iPhones are not usually bricked, but if (as is almost certain) it is locked to the Apple ID the only value is for scrap as only the AppleID holder can unlock it, this applies to all current iPhones and for several generations before, I don’t recall exactly when this was first introduced but do recall that the incidence of iPhones being stolen dramatically dropped

The information you are quoting is mostly irrelevant in Thailand as Thailand does not use the American Wire Gage and you haven’t given enough details either. If you want comments from the majority of people here you should use the standard messaging system used in the majority of the world which is the metric system. There are a few who know the conversions and will probably comment. You have the conversions in your post, using the standard is polite. There are vanishingly few Thai electricians working on houses so they will use the standard size of 2.5mm unless told otherwise, this is a perfectly sensible approach. You know the loads your system will carry, if you don’t know the sensible wire sizes people will be happily to assist. If you have an actual qualified Thai electrician he will be more than capable of assessing your needs. The wire sizes are dependent on the installation method, that is probably the main reason you see wiring clipped to walls here as that gives the greatest load carrying capacity. Put in conduit and the load limit drops, put in concrete and it drops again. FWIW (not much) I have about 42 9W LEDs on either 0.75mm (or 1mm. IDR)

Are you actually have as much difficulty reading and understanding the points as you appear to? I know that if read as written, rather than as you think it’s written, it is comprehensible. It has been shown that package capping is bypassed for some speed test sites This demonstrates that you actually see the maximum possible speed reported irrespective of the capped speed Naturally this is deceptive and not representative of real usage.

Different providers most commonly have their own equipment so while it is conceivable that both AIS and DTAC are sharing the same cell site and equipment it is unlikely. Even if they are sharing the same cell tower they are not usually sharing the same transmitter, this doesn’t address the point that there are likely to be different numbers of users, not to mention that a few centimetres location change will have an effect. All of this means that a different speed is almost guaranteed doesn’t it?

You should follow your own advice and read the details of how all Thai companies exempt some speed check destinations from the speed caps. The phrase hoist on your own petard seems to be particularly apt doesn’t it?

Different transmitter, different cell tower different location, so why does that look high for max speed?

Well since Sanyo became a subsidiary of Panasonic on December 21, 2009 you are buying stuff owned by Panasonic

We didn’t bother to monitor it other than taking a look once or twice. Since the roof was put on before the water was finished sunshine/ambient temperature made little difference and since it was a 24 hour test the start and finish were roughly the same temperature. you can always put some blue sheet over the roof area as a shade for the workers and pipe work. Actually I hadn't, but I believe you have a D32 PPR water distribution system too don't you? They were posted here recently and in detail on CTH and yes we do, also there are very few 90degree bends in the system, they are 2 x 45 degrees. Whatever global or HomePro was selling, but probably mostly PN20 I think Just a clarification for those who may misunderstand. It is not the wall thickness, except tangentially, that gives the higher friction losses, but the reduced internal diameter.

There is an actual sound resistant board for the ceiling. If you want to do the job properly then you need to use sound isolation mounting clips ( on the existing ceiling then suspend/mount the isolation board (sand filled) to them making sure that the board does not touch the walls the gap between the walls and the board is then calked with special sound isolation calk. https://soundstop.co.uk https://soundstop.co.uk/collections/acoustic-ceiling-products

Have you setup personalise spatial audio and privacy? Have you turned off adaptive transparency? Have you set up your Spatial Audio Profile on your iPhone (I can’t because I don’t have a iPhone that can do this). Have you tried it with noise cancellation turned on? depending on where you are, you can pop into an iCare Apple certified service centre and they will test your AirPods. It will usually take about 10 minutes, this is free.

The brand is blinding obvious, however the maker not so much

Do you have a specific reason for using a mechanical drive rather than an SSD that will be at least 5 x faster and probably 10 x lighter?

You may have come across the tests done to my system, the initial one, for 12 hours was mistakenly set at 28 bar or 380 PSI there was a slight loss of pressure the second more realistic, was at just under 100 PSI or just over 6 bar and maintained for over 24 hours with zero loss of pressure.

No glass is burglar proof but 1.5mm of PVB will need a very determined burglar. That is correct, 4 of my windows have 3 tracks 2 sliding one fixed Absolutely insist on toughened glass on the unlaminated pane. The windows will have to be custom ordered as it is impossible to cut toughened glass. Sliding doors are less secure than swinging doors as the locking mechanism can not be as robust. Glass will be a minor part of the cost. I can’t give you any idea as there are many different thicknesses, tints, heat reduction etc. My criteria were security, sound reduction, heat reduction. If you want only 2 of these they can use thinner glass

Neither does mine. The orange light indicates charging. The green light indicates charged. Neither is illuminated for more than 2~3 seconds after plugging in or opening the case. There is no particular need to fully charge the case due to the time fully charged pods last, the speed at which they will recharge and the number of times it will recharge the pods. I’ve been using mine since the were first released in October, I use them extensively, probably over 6 hours a day, and haven’t had the case battery go flat Go to the Music app settings and take you pick from the EQ or use an EQ app It may depend on the iPhone you are using both my iPhone SE 2 and iPad Pro show on the widget as long as the AirPods are connected they sometimes show the different charge levels if they are significantly different. So because there is no constant charge indicator on the case you are going to return the best ear pods?? This seems bizarre.

It is extremely doable it can also be automated without much problem. You should be looking for a generator transfer switch as they are designed for the job. There is one niggle that will almost certainly come into play and that is that it is very probable that mains powered clocks will be useless as the switch MUST disconnect one supply before connecting the other so they will reset twice a day, so microwave etc won’t show the correct time..

No apology required, for future reference if you give every detail possible it is unlikely to be too much, things that seem obvious and unnecessary to mention probably are relevant. A point to remember is that you probably need to explain it as if the audience is blind, we actually are because we can’t see what you can see and have no knowledge of your intended plans. Since the point at which you intend to join the two poles will be buried my personal choice would be to use a section of concrete pipe (probably a meter or meter and a half) around the two posts and fill that with concrete as well as bolting the posts together, this will provide reinforcement to the original post and the connection along with reducing the bending force on the original posts, I have used this as a decorative accent for some of our building i

You are going the wrong way around the situation. 1) decide the frame and exactly what glass you want. 2) get it measured by the install company. 3) get the overall price from the install company. the price from the installation company will be different from a random bloke asking for the information PrimeAsia will organise everything for you

I just did a test for you, writing to to an external SSD WITH A 411GB set of files took 13 minutes, writing the same 411GB took 9 minutes. However if writing multiple files the times will be significantly longer and I am using an M2 Mac with 2TB SSD so on windows with a less capable IO it’s going to be longer again

The windows were supplied by PrimeAsia the glazing by TGSG but sourced through PrimeAsia. Absolutely there is no point in having high security window glass if you can just kick the frame in. You will need to decide yourself. My choice was IGUs with 4mm plain, 5 x PVB, 4mm heat stop, 8mm argon, 5mm plain glass (the doors have tempered glass). The frames are PVC from Germany note we did not use green glass as I preferred clear

There are amusingly priced SSD drives that will take days to write