sometimewoodworker

Did you actually bother to watch the videos? Because if you did you would know that “thinset” wasn’t used, thinset likely would likely do as bad a job as you suggest. you would also know exactly how the correct fill was established. Just because you are a mechanical engineer doesn’t give you any special qualifications in tile repair also your reading comprehension is rather lacking if you think that I am incapable of addressing 2 different issues and can’t see that I have addressed both in context . So do please try keep on topic as I do.

Your statement that the only way to effectively repair is wrong, just that you don’t know of others. certainly using your methods and and cement caulk to rip out then replace tiles will give a good final result. But the method you suggest is just one and is used by those who haven’t kept updated on modern methods. Just because you have used a method for years doesn’t mean that other equally good or potentially better ones don’t exist. An example of the kind of repair systems I’ve mentioned is Fix-A-Floor. http://tradersnetwork.com.sg/index.php/fix-a-floor/ There are other versions of similar products. If theses don’t work you can go all caveman and use the Dan O method you are just out a bit of time and a small amount of money, if they work as advertised Robert is your mother’s brother!

You certainly could do that without great difficulty, however it’s extremely unlikely that you have a perfectly sealed perimeter with a void in the centre.

becausethey have nothing better to do????

that is an incorrect answer. Certainly some will be unfixable, however there are thin, virtually as thin as cream compounds that are inserted with a syringe that will fill all the voids. The possible problem with these are that they are anything but cheap so pulling out and replacing may be preferable.

Use *121# it will give you the balance and validity

The best product is this one

You should be able to find the total charge capacity of the phone and the original charge capacity of the battery, certainly iPhones can give you this information so I suspect that android ones can do the same, if the capacity is under 80% of new then it is time for a new battery, if you go to a competent repair shop they will be able to get a quality battery, just buying on Lazada you have little knowledge of the quality of the battery.

In general you should not use fast charge unless you really need it. Fast charging will heat the battery much more than slow charging. Heat is the death of batteries. So if you usually fast charge you will need to change the battery much sooner that if you slow charge.

Any friendly specialty AC shop can order the unit for you. The places like HomePro have the two units already ordered together and the don’t want he problems involved in custom ordering an outside unit only. The problem is that you need to know the referent used in your system (likely R22 that is phased out) and a compatible outdoor unit. Matching the new to the old is an easy job for a real AC technician, but if it is actually cost effective is a very different matter.

However entertaining this dialogue has been, though reading comprehension seems to be sadly lacking for one person the time has come to PLONK one participant, so now becoming unread

It's been already posted earlier in this thread. The thinnest Zacs spec is 0.30mm If you would actually read what has been written you would know that since the material in ST-40-760PU is 2.5mm I have already stated that it can neither be colorbond nor ZACS, so banging on that it can’t be ZACS is completely pointless isn’t it? You have completely failed to bother to research that materials supplied by bluescope to discover the range of coated steel they produce Why should I bother? You are the one all fired up about it so I’m not going to waste my time asking questions for your entertainment. Also the chances of them telling you are slim. Do remind me of the actual number of cars being manufactured in Australia, to the nearest 100, and what happened to the industry. Then the number being made in China to the nearest million. After that try to convince anyone that made in Australia is a guarantee of quality. Certainly China will provide c*r*a*p products if that is what they are being paid for conversely the are making the highest quality products worldwide, so take off your chauvinist glasses and look at the real world.

Really!!! You don’t say! Why are you presuming that the reference number I quoted has any significance other than to Sangthai Metalsheet. I certainly never suggested that. Congratulations, you are wrong. Sangthai Metalsheet Certainly references Bluescope as a supplier but nothing I can see specifically states the exact materials used. They may well do so. I never suggested that they don’t. However the details of the agreements are not publicly available so they may be able to source material from other providers. Incidentally or maybe directly to the point you can not get your material from Bluescope you have to use a middleman, as I said. I know that is the case with the 2 main product lines. We have used them extensively and the markings are not subtle I certainly don’t know the details of all Bluescope products, since you are so knowledgeable you can research and discover if they produce a 2.5mm sheet, if they do the name of it and the markings, if any, on it. The material is certainly not colorbond or ZACS as it is too thin. That depends on the design of your roof You are really naive if you believe that the majority of warranties in Thailand have any real meaning. Certainly some do, warrantees are given by the supplier or passed on from a manufacturer in the case of tools, like the big name brands, such as Makita. However, as far as I know, warranties on building material are from the company that supplies it not from the original manufacturer, the company that supplies it may well have an agreement with the original manufacturer, but you have to deal with the supply company, not the OEM. Therefore if your supplying company has gone out of business so has your warranty. You are implying that the material is inferior because it may not be a Bluescope product. You surely realise that there are other companies that produce coated steel don’t you? And that the material can be as good, or better, than Bluescope’s products?

As @Upnotover said the charging cable can limit the speed of charging but not increase it. the charging is a function of 4 things. 1) the charger 2) the cable 3) the cable connection 4) the device number 4 is the most important and most devices will limit the rate of charge. The charger is the next factor, a low power charger won’t allow a high speed but a high speed (high power) charger won’t force a high speed charge, it just allows it. The cable is just rated a the maximum it has siblings have been reliably tested to The USB connector governs the maximum power available AFAIR all versions of USB except USB-C at both ends are limited to 5V 2.1A some less than that USB-C is variable voltage up to 48V and 240W with version 2.1

The material thickness is as you quoted 0.25mm Bluescope Produce a verity of materials with a verity of guarantees The material we are using is ST-40-760PU it certainly is not colorbond since the colorbond material we have is 0.5mm AFAIK it is the thinnest available. The exact material is shown in the photographs above, since the back is coated with foam the identity of it is unknown. how is that not clear!!! (It is a dead parrot “ 'E's not pinin'! 'E's passed on! This parrot is no more! He has ceased to be! 'E's expired and gone to meet 'is maker! 'E's a stiff! Bereft of life, 'e rests in peace! If you hadn't nailed 'im to the perch 'e'd be pushing up the daisies! 'Is metabolic processes are now 'istory! 'E's off the twig! 'E's kicked the bucket, 'e's shuffled off 'is mortal coil, run down the curtain and joined the bleedin' choir invisible!! THIS IS AN EX-PARROT!!) substitute the words referring to parrot with guarantee will that be more clear I am well aware of the data referring to Colorbond, we have about 500 square metres of it on our roofs, these are two of them No domestic install sources from Bluescope, and probably few if any commercial installs will source from them either. However it is very probable that SANGTHAI METALSHEET does indeed source some or possibly all their material from them. The material he referenced is ST-40-760PU it is not clear that he is going to that exact material or some other version. Assuming is a rather poor idea as it should be clear that colorbond is not used in ST-40-760PU neither is ZACS.

You are confusing the signature on the form with the data on the form. Quite a few people print out the forms with their data, probably everyone, though I don’t know for sure, who prints the TM7 uses black. You have heard from some in this thread. It is only a rogue officer/office who will require the complete form be hand written. You are claiming that you have knowledge that virtually every office in the country , when you go there requires hand written TM7s, this is clearly delusional, total misinformation, or you are uniquely singled out, quite possible if you user name is an indicator. The signature on every photo copy and printed page certifies it

Your idea unfortunately has no basis in fact, as you can see the bottom thread can pull a very significant depth past the “tight enough” point. So get a numpty and he or she can drive the ridge down to the level of the valleys.

That is incorrect, as @Elkski said you drill fast not slow, first centre punch for location, a good center punch will actually pierce the top layer leaving an excellent guide divete, then the top layer will be drilled very quickly, using no pressure the screw will almost instantly go through the insulation. You then use pressure and high speed to go through the steel underside and roof purlins The way to stop the screws being over driven is to either use the right hand driver or have an experienced builder with excellent trigger control using the left hand impact set on the lightest setting.

I did make a post that somehow disappeared So this a repeat AFIR of the post. This is just a FWIW. We have received our order of the same material that you are going to use. my observations and no particular order; the metal of the roof covering is very thin compared to the standard BlueScopeSteel roof. The BlueScopeSteel colorbond roof is 0.5 mm is 0.25 mm. This does not mean that it is a bad roof, but it certainly isn’t as robust as a colorbond roof. Our supplier has stated that there is no guarantee this compares to the colorbond 30 year guarantee, I’ll be in Thailand if the company that sells your roof stock trading, then there goes your guarantee, but the fact that they offer a 30 year guarantee suggest that the colorbond material itself is excellent. We are currently fitting the first of seven roof areas, and the observation is that the colour is easy to scratch, so much so that we are going to be buying a colour match cyan paint for touching up the roof. While delivering the first batch of roofing material, one of the panels was dropped, denting it because the metal is quite thin. The delivery driver and his mate were able to repair the roof to an extent that it was acceptable, and since it’s going to be used in the outside kitchen, looking perfect is not really that important, the suppliers offered to replace the roof sheet, we declined, and they have given us a 1% discount on our total order. I think quite possibly because of the delicate nature of the colour coating sheets have been delivered with quite thick plastic sheeting protecting them, so this is a bonus for the supplying company. The fact that the metal is so thin has one unexpected benefit, that is with a centre punch it’s very easy to go through the metal making an excellent guide for the rather long screws that are needed to hold it down. incidentally, also supply the same material with a metallicised plastic coating on the base, if we were going to use this in an area where there was a ceiling, we would almost certainly have opted for that as the coating is quite substantial, and if there are no birds or anything else like that attacking it. I’m sure it will do the job as well as the metal underside coating. There is also quite a significant saving in price. If you get them the metal is plastic or plastic coated metal rather than the actual metal itself. This is the metal base coating and this is the other style available

It would be useful to know which particular rogue office you are forced to attend.

Good we at least agree on one point. However you are still desperately trying to claim that working while you are in Thailand is not work!!! So it does not need a work permit I do know that one needs a work permit to work in Thailand It makes no difference if your work doesn’t involve the Thai labour market it is working in Thailand q.e.d. it is against Thai law that you claim to understand. As I have stated, repeatedly, I know that the authorities in charge of policing, at the moment, are not enforcing the law, this can change at any time but until someone high enough up decides to change the law it is clearly illegal That is what I have been saying all the time. I have taken the liberty of highlighting the point made. Tolerance of a breach of the law doesn’t make it legal, it just means that you are unlikely to have problems. If you want to find out if there will be problems just start a very widely advertised recruitment agency stating that you are going to employ people to work from Thailand stating that working without a work permit is legal because the work doesn’t involve Thailand so tourists are welcome. Make sure that you advertise often and very visibly in the Thai press. Make enough noise and one of two things will happen (I can have a good chance of knowing which one) scenario 1; you will be welcomed by the authorities and the law will have an exception for your idea, scenario 2; after sufficient time has passed you will be shut down hard and everyone else working illegally will have to watch their backs .

As I said I have no interpretation about what the law states. It seams that you have difficulty in understanding the you are not permitted to work without a work permit. It also seams that you are desperately trying to say that working on line is somehow not working when it clearly is. That, for the moment, no official is going to push and bother to enforce the law doesn’t make it legal. TIT so at any time it can change. You also seem to think that there are voluminous lists of what is and isn’t work, there aren’t, TIT officials will interpret in a way that benefits them either financially or in not having to be industrious. Laws are often deliberately written to allow wiggle room. This is not Germany or other Teutonic countries where the law is rigidly defined. Find a law that exempts online workers from requiring a work permit, hint, I will be amazed at the flying porcine’s if you can.

I do not interpret the law, I can understand the law. If you can quote the law that permits working in Thailand without a work permit I would like to be corrected.

You are incorrect. I have printed my TM7 forms using black toner for years, the signature was usually in blue but I have used black. The signature and photograph are original, though quite possibly a printed full colour photo would also be acceptable. Since my forms are all printed is is absolutely clear that they are exact copies. There may be an office or official who has an issue this will be unusual.

There is no official position on that kind of work. That officials have largely ignored it means nothing. At some point it will become something to address, probably because doing so will help a politician. When that time comes it will either be stamped on hard or be made legal, your guess is as good as mine as to when and which way the decision goes. You have probably been hear long enough to know that because something was done before means little to what will happen in the future