sometimewoodworker

The majority of older AC units use R22, R22 is extremely harmful to the environment, it is 1810 times more harmful than CO2 and is an ozone depleting product . So while they may not be directly harmful if you breathe it they are dangerous to the environment. Just because the local shops are environmental cretinous does not give you a pass to emulate them. Refrigerant should be collected unless it is a HC one then you should be careful of flame or sparks. The HC ones include R50 (methane) R290 (propane) R600 (butane) R600a (isobutane) R1270 (propylene).

So I am guessing that you did not, as is the usual requirement, recover the refrigerant? The point is not the time taken for removal, you are paying for the time taken to travel to you along with the training and professional tools, along with insurance, you are also paying for HomePro taking the responsibility. It is certain that it can be done more cheaply but the actual time taken often has no bearing on the price charged.

My security gates are rather less visible and probably a little more secure, though only used when we are not at home for an extended period.

That should not cause them to be unable to be wiped but two tools, SYSGeeker NTFS for mac and Mounty for NTFS for mac maybe useful https://www.sysgeeker.com/best-free-ntfs-for-mac-reviews.html

If those are new disks, since you have tried everything possible, my next step would be to return them as defective. I am not sure if you have tried a different machine likely a windows one.

That is slightly confusing as our roof was put on long before the rendering was started, in fact some of the walls had not even been completed. Is there any special reason for waiting?

That is why we have laminated glass IGUs that have 5 layers of PVB 2 X 4MM glass making the outer sheet with a 5mm inner. It certainly is no unbreakable but it is the same thickness as several diplomats use including the British ambassador in Laos so if it’s good enough for them it’s certainly OK for me

Did you try the Initialise option? And how about the other questions?

Have you changed the cable to the disk? Is it a short cable, under 50cm, preferably under 10cm? Do the disks have external power? Have you swapped the power bricks? Have you changed the mains cable? what OS are you running? Is it up to date? Have you got someone else with a Mac who can check. 1 bad disk is a very unusual anomaly, 2 strongly suggests that it is your system that is the problem

Not just in Isaan but the majority of Thailand as well, certainly in the less densely populated areas.

Those places do not do their own installs either though HomePro is better than some. My suggestion is to go to an actual AC shop.

You probably need to order from an actual AC company, shopee is only an agent. A real AC company will actually inspect the location that you want the AC installed, We have a company that send round the actual install technicians then quotes a price, at the moment we are waiting for the unit we decided on to arrive, it is due any day now then the install will take place.

Did you notice the thread title? AIS daily internet on Android?

This is very helpful for those who have a good AIS connection (the majority) and a much less good (if any) DTAC signal!

It seems that there has been significant miscommunication. If Disk utility can see a drive (it can the drive is TOSHIBA External…) it can usually act on it Disk utility has no need to mount a disk to act on it The partition on the drive has the Linux name disk3s1 Disk utility is able to check that partition and the root drive. Disk utility is probably able to erase the TOSHIBA External… root. Disk utility is probably able to Change the file mapping of TOSHIBA External… root so should be able to partition Disk utility may not be able to act on the disk3s1 partition, this doesn’t matter since any partition is going to be in the TOSHIBA External… root and will automatically wipe the disk3s1 partition There are some (very few) disks with software mapping that requires a pure Linux system or windows system to rewrite

Keeping the relevant details to yourself when asking questions is rather bad form, to say the least, it means that the answers cannot actually address the situation You haven’t given any information about the current poles. If they are the standard precast poles then the reinforcement is likely 3mm, if so then they can hold up on compression but are useless against a bending force of any reasonable amount. So however you join the poles they have a good chance of snapping the shorter ones, this will be even more likely if the shorter ones are using the minimum cement and the concrete has been mixed with too much water (this is extremely likely as you can get a smoother look, but only ¼ or less of the possible strength) TLDR only you know the details so advise given has not got enough detail. Best advice is bite the bullet and dig the old posts out.

That is a rather ridiculous suggestion. The OP has a Mac not a Windows machine

There is one fun thing that I don’t think anyone has pointed out. Just because you have done everything right and all the circuits have breaker’s on the correct live line so that when off no circuits has a live line doesn’t stop the PEA switching the line and neutral connections before you supply. It has happened and enough times for it to be a standard check. Bottom line. NEVER work on electrics without checking that they are completely dead and don’t assume that another house may not suddenly have a fault that energies the neutral.

The offer of a free installation is standard. There is no need to say that removal of an existing AC unit is not included as it isn’t installing its removing. There was no bait and switch. The only genuine complaint was the that the free pipe cover wasn’t free. It is disingenuous to try to compare replacement tyres with an AC installation, as you can’t get to the store if you don’t have old tyres. With an AC there is no expectation (except for you) that a new AC will replace an existing one at no extra cost. None of the AC units I’ve purchased have been replacing an existing one. Remember nothing is free, it is just included in the price, I would certainly be unhappy if I had to pay an inflated price for taking an existing AC unit for the 5 units I’ve bought in the last few years just so you could have a free (but actually paid for in the price) removal.

That is the only way to do the job apart from replacing the posts with taller ones.

You have a USB A charger, so the maximum voltage is limited, you have a cheap cable, so the quality may not be great you have a long charging lead (2 meters for a cheap cable = probable voltage drop) the quality of the cable is not as good as the brands I listed earlier

My opinion on that is to buy directly from Reolink on https://store.reolink.com/th/poe-ip-cameras/ they have PoE cameras at a reasonable price for 4K 8MP versions at bit over $100 and an 8-Channel 2TB HDD PoE NVR, for about $230

The cable is absolutely not a fake. It is a real cable with real USB-C ends, however the soldering or just possibly crimping are not necessary correct and the cable itself might rival spider silk for fineness of strands and could be coppered aluminium, the electronics in the cable could be substandard. How much were you charged? and how long is the cable? What brand is the cable? to answer the question, any good quality cable will work perfectly with any good quality charger, so you could use a good 240W cable and it will work, it won’t charge any faster but it will function. Quality makes include; ESSAGER, Baseus, NOHON, Anker, ORICO, Aukey. They all make high quality cables and cheaper ones. My preference is to use AliExpress for electronics.

I was just checking and a very good battery for one of my iPads was ฿2,000 and for my Samsung A5 was ฿700, they took about an hour for both to be fitted

Your total inability to understand that their is not one “correct” way to solve a problem is typical of the blinkered thinking displayed be some members of your professed profession. That you have not kept up with modern material science just demonstrates the above. Your repair is invasive time consuming probably impossible to do without having a supply of the same batch number of the tile’s in stock. My suggested repair is likely to to solve the issue with very little damage to any existing tiles virtually no mess or fuss. The great thing is that if it doesn’t @Bday Prang can then use your method. FYI a good fix is one that solves a problem in the simplest fastest way possible. It is not “do it this way because it’s the only correct way. Your ‘FIX’ has a potential of repeating the problem, mine does not.