kitjohnson Posted January 31, 2018 Posted January 31, 2018 My house walls are made of aerated autoclaved concrete blocks, aka AAC, superblocks, thermalite, etc. Most people I've asked are like "any old anchor will do", but for more heavy-duty fixures, let's say hanging a hammock, for example, I want to make sure I don't accidentally rip a hole in the wall. At Homepro I found these hooks, but I'm not sure if they will be any good or not. Hook 1 and 2 both have some kind of anchor: hook one hook two Hook 3 doesn't have any kind of anchor, so I'm wondering how it would every get anchored to anything. hook three
bankruatsteve Posted January 31, 2018 Posted January 31, 2018 I've put 100's of anchors into AAC with no problem. But, a hammock? Hmm. Maybe put up a steel plate with eyelet just to have more (like 4) places of anchor. 2
grollies Posted January 31, 2018 Posted January 31, 2018 19 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said: I've put 100's of anchors into AAC with no problem. But, a hammock? Hmm. Maybe put up a steel plate with eyelet just to have more (like 4) places of anchor. Yep, I wouldn't hang a hammock on thermalite blocks without putting a steel plate on either side of the block and bolt right through at at least two points. Depends on how heavy the OP is.
Pogust Posted February 1, 2018 Posted February 1, 2018 Special screws available but doubt that you can find it here. I bought in Sweden and took with me. Works very well and holds a heavy weight.
kitjohnson Posted February 3, 2018 Author Posted February 3, 2018 A steel plate with an eyelet sounds like a great idea. I'll have a look to see what I can find. @Pogust That screw looks like magic. Did I understand it right: self-tapping into wood, and self-anchoring into AAC? How expensive are they?
cooked Posted February 3, 2018 Posted February 3, 2018 1 hour ago, kitjohnson said: A steel plate with an eyelet sounds like a great idea. I'll have a look to see what I can find. @Pogust That screw looks like magic. Did I understand it right: self-tapping into wood, and self-anchoring into AAC? How expensive are they? Back home we had special plastic anchors that self tapped into a pre-drilled hole, normal wood screws could then be used. https://www.rakuten.de/produkt/ytong-duebel-gasbetonduebel-porenbetonduebel-fuer-leichtbeton-kunststoffduebel-871764056.html Failing this I would cement any fixtures into a hole if I didn't want stuff to fall. Especially the non-load bearing, very light quality of AAC blocks that generally get used here need attention.
Pogust Posted February 3, 2018 Posted February 3, 2018 11 hours ago, kitjohnson said: @Pogust That screw looks like magic. Did I understand it right: self-tapping into wood, and self-anchoring into AAC? How expensive are they? That is right, but you would have to pre-drill the wood here as it is too hard to force a 8mm screw through it. 8 x 120mm is 30 baht each. They hold 100-150kg pulling force each. I use them for door frames and hanging cupboard on walls.
Popular Post sometimewoodworker Posted May 12, 2018 Popular Post Posted May 12, 2018 The fixings designed for AAC blocks are these With the correct size drill and enough of them you will be able to anchor your steel plate to the wall. They will hold against a large shear force. However a hammock will put an enormous pulling force ( as much as several hundred Kg) on any fitting if you attach it the wrong way. The navies and merchant marine for hundreds of years knew that and so never rigged hammocks to the overhead beams using a pulling force always with a shear force 3
mogandave Posted May 13, 2018 Posted May 13, 2018 Were it me, for a hammock I would drill through and put a nut and washer on the backside. I would also be more concerned about a broken back than a hole in the wall. 2
kitjohnson Posted May 17, 2018 Author Posted May 17, 2018 Excellent points about there being a strong pulling force, not just shear force, and also about the broken back. I'll think about this carefully before attaching the thing, but a plate on both sides of the block sounds like a good start. At this part of the house there are structural columns. I don't like the idea of drilling lots of holes into a column, as I feel it could weaken the integrity of the column itself, but I could be quite mistaken here.
bankruatsteve Posted May 17, 2018 Posted May 17, 2018 8 minutes ago, kitjohnson said: Excellent points about there being a strong pulling force, not just shear force, and also about the broken back. I'll think about this carefully before attaching the thing, but a plate on both sides of the block sounds like a good start. At this part of the house there are structural columns. I don't like the idea of drilling lots of holes into a column, as I feel it could weaken the integrity of the column itself, but I could be quite mistaken here. A few holes in a support column would not be an issue but the likelihood of running into steel would. I'd go somewhere else, if possible, with plates to spread out the load.
kitjohnson Posted May 17, 2018 Author Posted May 17, 2018 7 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said: A few holes in a support column would not be an issue but the likelihood of running into steel would. I appreciate your advice. When you say steel, do you mean the rebar inside the concrete column? (Sorry to sound like such a construction noob)
bankruatsteve Posted May 17, 2018 Posted May 17, 2018 Just now, kitjohnson said: I appreciate your advice. When you say steel, do you mean the rebar inside the concrete column? (Sorry to sound like such a construction noob) Ya. It obviously does not occupy the entire space but seems like it if attempting to drill a hole.
mogandave Posted May 17, 2018 Posted May 17, 2018 Ya. It obviously does not occupy the entire space but seems like it if attempting to drill a hole.The first 3 on the plate go perfect, it’s that last one that always ends up a direct hit! 1
kitjohnson Posted May 17, 2018 Author Posted May 17, 2018 8 minutes ago, mogandave said: The first 3 on the plate go perfect, it’s that last one that always ends up a direct hit! I can totally visualise this now!
mogandave Posted May 17, 2018 Posted May 17, 2018 I think if you drill through the wall and use a backing plate you’ll be okay. Don’t pull it too tight. The straighter the hammock hangs, the greater the force pulling on the wall when you get in...
grollies Posted May 17, 2018 Posted May 17, 2018 Why on earth do you want a hammock indoors anyway. If you have a garden stick up a couple of 3m concrete posts and sling it up in the shade.
kitjohnson Posted May 18, 2018 Author Posted May 18, 2018 19 hours ago, grollies said: Why on earth do you want a hammock indoors anyway. If you have a garden stick up a couple of 3m concrete posts and sling it up in the shade. Just realised the OP was a bit ambiguous. I wanted to hang it outside the house, but it's actually under an overhang of the second floor so it would be nicely shaded. Also quite near the kitchen for beers etc.
oldwelshman Posted May 30, 2018 Posted May 30, 2018 Check Hilti site for best, expansion bolts not used as they crack the block, best is chemical resin anchors we use them a lot in hospital installations they can be used in cracked or aerated concrete and bricks with frog. They also do screw and plug type which works in plaster board and concrete block. 1 1
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