Vitara 1999 can I swap manual to automatic?

[cheeryble]

Hi

 

Suzuki Vitara 1999 1.6 litre 16 valve LWB.

 

I'm suffering from some sort of physical muscle weakness and having a lot of trouble with depressing the clutch fully on my dear Vitara which has served me well for fourteen years.

The gearbox and stick linkages are tight and noiseless, and the clutch is not old, a year or two.

Because the pedal feels so stiff to me I have asked a couple of people to try pressing the pedal.

They both seem to think the pedal's fine, whereas to me it's an uneven push down, feels very stiff, and I'm often trying to change gear when the clutch turns out to be not fully disengaged.

 

This is bad news for me as it means it's my foot strength, but i'm seeing the doc about that, don't need any diagnoses thank you and no prob with brake.

 

The wife has been suggesting to buy an automatic of some sort.

As I am very tall and have good leg and headroom in the Vitara, it occurred to me to ask if I can change out the transmission.......I believe the newer generations are mostly automatic and I wondered if they might fit.

I have heard the Japanese secondhand engines and parts are very cheap.

As the car's 18yo, although the engine runs fine and smokeless, it's done 420k km, so at the right price a full swap of engine and gearbox would give me a car to last a long time, and maybe a newer model engine might add fuel efficiency.

 

But transmission alone might be satisfactory.

 

I was going to put this on Suzuki forums and may do, but it's mostly for Americans and I thought it might be more likely there'd be knowledge about Japanese parts here on TV.

 

Any comments welcome.

 

 

[cheeryble]

Hmmm....

 

maybe as a start I could ask if anyone's used secondhand Japanese parts and what they cost.

[Just Weird]

The answer to your question is yes, the conversion can be done.  It a common job to do the auto-to-manual swap so doing it the other way around is not impossible either.  But there's more to it than just swapping the units over, there are other fiddly jobs like installing the new pedal box and the auto gearshift mechanism, for instance.

[Just Weird]

On ‎3‎/‎29‎/‎2018 at 12:31 AM, cheeryble said:

Hmmm....

 

maybe as a start I could ask if anyone's used secondhand Japanese parts and what they cost.

I've used many secondhand Japanese parts on projects here, as have friends of mine, there's a big market for them, prices are reasonable and most of the big suppliers will guarantee the parts. 

 

One conversion I had done was to put the H22A engine/transmission form a Honda Prelude into an Accord I had at the time.  It was a few years ago, the entire front clip including the suspension and brakes was B50,000 with a guarantee to exchange it if it wasn't up to scratch.  It was.

[cheeryble]

Thanks JW sorry for tardy reply.

 

Been using the wife's elderly corolla while she's on a trip abroad and the Vitara in the body shop, and noted I can use the corolla clutch easily, so I'm going to have one more attempt to make sure the Vitara's clutch is pukka.

 

SO you're pretty convinced I could do a swap eh?

I'd note the newer generations of Vitara/Grand Vitara are two inches longer overall, but I guess may have the same sized engine have to look it up.

I think they may have a 2 litre engine too which may cancel out any added fuel efficiency?

The 1.6 is more than enough and I do a lot of miles so would love better efficiency.

 

There is the original idea of just changing the box to auto.......but have previously had a bit of trouble with air sensor channels for fuel injection system getting blocked causing fast idle, and was just thinking if I splashed out for engine too and a drivers seat renovation and one or two other bits there would be nothing too expensive that would be likely to go wrong.......so for a total spend of say ballpark 70kbaht I'd have a car I could run nicely for many years.

Yes it would be nice if the auto stick fitted nicely not an amateur looking mess......who knows.

 

Thanks for input......more welcome!

 

ps:If anyone can suggest an alternative car more fuel efficient but with plenty of head and legroom and some good storage space like the vitara please do.

I'd also note I have a home welded bracket which goes on the rear door mounted backdoor spare wheel been there for years the bike goes everywhere no prob. A big plus.

 

Edited March 31, 2018 by cheeryble

[jay1980]

check out SRD motor, I think they could handle the engine/gearbox swap you are looking to do:

 

call (or get a Thai speaker to call) 08-6074-0073

 

http://www.yellowpages.co.th/en/profile/522909982040001

 

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100009902989136

 

they used to have a website with pictures of all the engine swaps they had done at:

 

www.srd-motor.com

 

but it seems to be down now

 

hope that helps

 

 

[Lancashirelad]

Or you could just buy this

 

https://www.thaivisa.com/forum/topic/1003404-2011-suzuki-grand-vitara-auto-450000bht-bangkok/

[Sapporillo]

If the car was available with an automatic gearbox at the time (mated to the same engine), it can be done “relatively easy”, otherwise the shop would need to fabricate special adaptor plates and whatnot...  I still wouldn’t recommend it, even with the low labor costs in Thailand. It’s quite a big job, maybe you even need a different ECU, and an automatic transmission costs several thousand $, unless you get a used one, in which case you don’t know if you can trust it, since used parts never have a service history. For the price of all that, plus the resale value of your car, you’re better off with a used car with a service history. 

[Just Weird]

On ‎3‎/‎31‎/‎2018 at 1:17 PM, cheeryble said:

Thanks JW sorry for tardy reply.

 

Been using the wife's elderly corolla while she's on a trip abroad and the Vitara in the body shop, and noted I can use the corolla clutch easily, so I'm going to have one more attempt to make sure the Vitara's clutch is pukka.

 

SO you're pretty convinced I could do a swap eh?

I'd note the newer generations of Vitara/Grand Vitara are two inches longer overall, but I guess may have the same sized engine have to look it up.

I think they may have a 2 litre engine too which may cancel out any added fuel efficiency?

The 1.6 is more than enough and I do a lot of miles so would love better efficiency.

 

There is the original idea of just changing the box to auto.......but have previously had a bit of trouble with air sensor channels for fuel injection system getting blocked causing fast idle, and was just thinking if I splashed out for engine too and a drivers seat renovation and one or two other bits there would be nothing too expensive that would be likely to go wrong.......so for a total spend of say ballpark 70kbaht I'd have a car I could run nicely for many years.

Yes it would be nice if the auto stick fitted nicely not an amateur looking mess......who knows.

 

Thanks for input......more welcome!

 

ps:If anyone can suggest an alternative car more fuel efficient but with plenty of head and legroom and some good storage space like the vitara please do.

I'd also note I have a home welded bracket which goes on the rear door mounted backdoor spare wheel been there for years the bike goes everywhere no prob. A big plus.

 

"SO you're pretty convinced I could do a swap eh?"

Not at all, I didn't say that!   I said it was possible but it is not as straightforward as may be thought.   I don't know anything about your mechanical ability but, with respect, the fact that you had to ask the question suggests that you may not be  transplant expert!  Good luck.

[cheeryble]

21 hours ago, Just Weird said:

"SO you're pretty convinced I could do a swap eh?"

Not at all, I didn't say that!   I said it was possible but it is not as straightforward as may be thought.   I don't know anything about your mechanical ability but, with respect, the fact that you had to ask the question suggests that you may not be  transplant expert!  Good luck.

 

Haha believe me I wouldn't think of doing my self haha

 

A couple of friends agreed the clutch became stiffer half way down then even worse and one of them took me down the road to his favourite mechanic (and this guy knows cars, has built many himself.)

I drove there.

I think he adjusted the cable which was good by me as a starter as I had to push to the limit for disengagement..

When I cam to drive off the clutch would not even begin to disengage.

It's in the shop right now!

As the cable has been previously adjusted at least a couple of times I suspect it or part of the mechanism is US.

If I can get this fixed it may still be a fairly stiff clutch but should be perfectly usable.

 

Edited April 4, 2018 by cheeryble

[Sapporillo]

1 hour ago, cheeryble said:

 

Haha believe me I wouldn't think of doing my self haha

 

A couple of friends agreed the clutch became stiffer half way down then even worse and one of them took me down the road to his favourite mechanic (and this guy knows cars, has built many himself.)

I drove there.

I think he adjusted the cable which was good by me as a starter as I had to push to the limit for disengagement..

When I cam to drive off the clutch would not even begin to disengage.

It's in the shop right now!

As the cable has been previously adjusted at least a couple of times I suspect it or part of the mechanism is US.

If I can get this fixed it may still be a fairly stiff clutch but should be perfectly usable.

 

If it really is a cable operated clutch, maybe you just need a new cable, that should be quite cheap and quick to install. If it's a hydraulically operated clutch, you might be in for a  bigger bill....

[jay1980]

24 minutes ago, Sapporillo said:

If it really is a cable operated clutch, maybe you just need a new cable, that should be quite cheap and quick to install. If it's a hydraulically operated clutch, you might be in for a  bigger bill....

OP mentioned a clutch cable so must be cable operated, but even if it a hydraulic clutch the cost to repair it is not scary.

 

I had the hydraulic clutch master cylinder rebuilt on my manual Lancer once and got change out of 1000 baht for the job

[Sapporillo]

25 minutes ago, jay1980 said:

OP mentioned a clutch cable so must be cable operated, but even if it a hydraulic clutch the cost to repair it is not scary.

 

I had the hydraulic clutch master cylinder rebuilt on my manual Lancer once and got change out of 1000 baht for the job

Wow, that’s really cheap. I just remembered something: i had a Hyundai with a similar problem (pedal had to be pressed hard to the floor to disengage the clutch), and it turned out that this was the symptom of a worn clutch. It started slipping soon after and needed replacement. Very counterintuitive, I know, but the mechanic could explain it (but unfortunately I mostly forgot, I think there is a mechanism inside the clutch which compensates for the wear, and it can have that effect).

Since the OPs car has a lot of miles, I’d ask the shop the check the clutch (or do it yourself if you know how). 

[cheeryble]

Cycled to the shop this afternoon to check what was happening.

They were most of the way through installing a new clutch (and i hope, cable) and it would be ready by evening (Wednesday).

 

So I'll pick up tomorrow and we'll see.

[Lancashirelad]

Seems like it will be irrelevant to this thread now, but a few things to think about for anyone else who thinks about converting a manual car to automatic.

 

If the engine (motor) is also changed for one from a different manufacturer and an auto box mated to the replacement engine is used, new engine and gearbox mountings will need to be fabricated. All the electrical connections will be different and in different places on the new engine meaning the wiring loom has to be adapted to suit. As Just Weird mentioned the pedal box (the bracket that holds the pedals in place on the bulkhead/firewall) has to be changed.

In some car bodies the shape of the aperture where the gear shift is mounted is different between manual and auto, so a  change over can end up looking like a bodged up mess. 

Then there's electrics to think about, more connections are needed for an auto that probably aren't there in a manual wiring loom. Such as TCM (transmission control module), kick down switch, inhibitor switch (stops the engine from being accidentally started in gear) and gear selector illumination. It's a big job, not worth it in my opinion. Better off to sell and buy a used vehicle with the desired transmission type.

 

There is an easy way to check if a clutch is worn, but a bit difficult to describe in print. Often the biting point will have become close to the top of the pedal travel. (though in this instance it sounds like it may have been a release bearing issue or failed pressure plate rather than a worn drive plate).

With the engine at operating temperature and the car parked on level ground, apply the handbrake hard-on as if parking on a steep hill. Engage top gear, give it some revs as if doing a hill start.  Let the clutch pedal up slowly. If the engine stalls the clutch is ok.

However if the pedal comes almost to the top before the engine stalls, or all the way up and the clutch slips without stalling the engine, then it is worn. (very worn if the latter)

Some cable operated clutches have manual adjusters and sometimes the height of the biting point can be adjusted.

 

 

Edited April 4, 2018 by Lancashirelad
typos

[cheeryble]

10 hours ago, Lancashirelad said:

Seems like it will be irrelevant to this thread now, but a few things to think about for anyone else who thinks about converting a manual car to automatic.

 

If the engine (motor) is also changed for one from a different manufacturer and an auto box mated to the replacement engine is used, new engine and gearbox mountings will need to be fabricated. All the electrical connections will be different and in different places on the new engine meaning the wiring loom has to be adapted to suit. As Just Weird mentioned the pedal box (the bracket that holds the pedals in place on the bulkhead/firewall) has to be changed.

In some car bodies the shape of the aperture where the gear shift is mounted is different between manual and auto, so a  change over can end up looking like a bodged up mess. 

Then there's electrics to think about, more connections are needed for an auto that probably aren't there in a manual wiring loom. Such as TCM (transmission control module), kick down switch, inhibitor switch (stops the engine from being accidentally started in gear) and gear selector illumination. It's a big job, not worth it in my opinion. Better off to sell and buy a used vehicle with the desired transmission type.

 

There is an easy way to check if a clutch is worn, but a bit difficult to describe in print. Often the biting point will have become close to the top of the pedal travel. (though in this instance it sounds like it may have been a release bearing issue or failed pressure plate rather than a worn drive plate).

With the engine at operating temperature and the car parked on level ground, apply the handbrake hard-on as if parking on a steep hill. Engage top gear, give it some revs as if doing a hill start.  Let the clutch pedal up slowly. If the engine stalls the clutch is ok.

However if the pedal comes almost to the top before the engine stalls, or all the way up and the clutch slips without stalling the engine, then it is worn. (very worn if the latter)

Some cable operated clutches have manual adjusters and sometimes the height of the biting point can be adjusted.

 

 

What a fantastic post.

 

The clutch pedal want' near the top of it's travel......the opposite.

If I remember right it's a fairly new clutch. I've had it adjusted for a higher engagement point on the pedal but it seems to have been getting lower again.

When I looked at the one they'd taken out yesterday there was a ring worn near the inside ends of the diaphragm spring leafs (leafs?). Thrust bearing trouble?

Anyway I'll post a pic when i get it back.

 

Apparently the car is done and they will drop it off a bit later.

 

Yes this was taken out of my hands somewhat when i left it with them to take a look at.......expecting a problem clutch cable.....and next thing I knew they were changing the clutch and maybe more.......without giving a call first to get the go-ahead.

Whilst i was pleased they cracked on I should have been asked for the OK and was a bit peeved.

Then my brain started thinking what did the wife say.

I asked and she said she just said get it done even before they even knew the problem. So I don't blame them. (And I daren't blame her).

 

I would have liked the choice to think about automatic (not now I've read Lancashire Lad's brilliant post) or to send it to back to the last (renowned) shop as it if I remember right it's not old and may be faulty and worthy of a replacement and also as I found it almost impossible to communicate with this shop even though he's recommended you gotta be able to ask details.

 

I believe the price is 6600bt. I had been told he's cheap and this doesn't sound so cheap. Can't remember the brand of clutch but it sure was a cheap cardboard box.

Is it OK?

Maybe it includes a cable etc? 

Edited April 5, 2018 by cheeryble

[jay1980]

36 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

 

I believe the price is 6600bt. I had been told he's cheap and this doesn't sound so cheap. Can't remember the brand of clutch but it sure was a cheap cardboard box.

Is it OK?

Maybe it includes a cable etc? 

6600 baht is not bad for a clutch replacement, last time I had a clutch changed was in the UK at a mates garage so labour was 'mates rates', even with the discount on labour that the cost was over 20,000baht over in the west

 

https://www2.zukiworld.com/wp-content/tech-library/FSM - Vitara 1999-2005 Chassis Electrical Body Manual .pdf

 

https://www2.zukiworld.com/wp-content/tech-library/FSM - Vitara 1999-2005 Engine Drivetrain Manual.pdf

 

https://www2.zukiworld.com/wp-content/tech-library/FSM - Vitara 1999-2005 Full Service Manual.pdf

 

https://www2.zukiworld.com/wp-content/tech-library/FSM - Vitara 1999-2005 Transmission Transfer Case Differential Manual .pdf

 

found some pdf of workshop manuals for your car, maybe good for future reference

 

[Sapporillo]

45 minutes ago, cheeryble said:

What a fantastic post.

 

The clutch pedal want' near the top of it's travel......the opposite.

If I remember right it's a fairly new clutch. I've had it adjusted for a higher engagement point on the pedal but it seems to have been getting lower again.

When I looked at the one they'd taken out yesterday there was a ring worn near the inside ends of the diaphragm spring leafs (leafs?). Thrust bearing trouble?

Anyway I'll post a pic when i get it back.

 

Apparently the car is done and they will drop it off a bit later.

 

Yes this was taken out of my hands somewhat when i left it with them to take a look at.......expecting a problem clutch cable.....and next thing I knew they were changing the clutch and maybe more.......without giving a call first to get the go-ahead.

Whilst i was pleased they cracked on I should have been asked for the OK and was a bit peeved.

Then my brain started thinking what did the wife say.

I asked and she said she just said get it done even before they even knew the problem. So I don't blame them. (And I daren't blame her).

 

I would have liked the choice to think about automatic (not now I've read Lancashire Lad's brilliant post) or to send it to back to the last (renowned) shop as it if I remember right it's not old and may be faulty and worthy of a replacement and also as I found it almost impossible to communicate with this shop even though he's recommended you gotta be able to ask details.

 

I believe the price is 6600bt. I had been told he's cheap and this doesn't sound so cheap. Can't remember the brand of clutch but it sure was a cheap cardboard box.

Is it OK?

Maybe it includes a cable etc? 

Just as jay said, a clutch replacement is a lot more expensive in Europe, so you’re probably not getting ripped off. They need to drop the gearbox (or in some cars, the engine) to do the job, it’s quite a lot of work, plus the parts. If you had it done only a year ago or two (that’s what you wrote in your OP), there’s something wrong, unless you’re a really bad driver or you did a lot of miles during that time. A clutch “should” last about 150’00 km at least. Either the parts they’re using are a lot less durable than the parts we get in Europe, or the last shop installed a used part from a wrecked car, or they billed you for something else. 

[cheeryble]

14 minutes ago, jay1980 said:

6600 baht is not bad for a clutch replacement, last time I had a clutch changed was in the UK at a mates garage so labour was 'mates rates', even with the discount on labour that the cost was over 20,000baht over in the west

 

https://www2.zukiworld.com/wp-content/tech-library/FSM - Vitara 1999-2005 Chassis Electrical Body Manual .pdf

 

https://www2.zukiworld.com/wp-content/tech-library/FSM - Vitara 1999-2005 Engine Drivetrain Manual.pdf

 

https://www2.zukiworld.com/wp-content/tech-library/FSM - Vitara 1999-2005 Full Service Manual.pdf

 

https://www2.zukiworld.com/wp-content/tech-library/FSM - Vitara 1999-2005 Transmission Transfer Case Differential Manual .pdf

 

found some pdf of workshop manuals for your car, maybe good for future reference

 

Hey Jay

 

how kind of you to put the links up. 

I hadn't come across zukiworld.

If my weak muscle and the new clutch can get along together I'd thought of pimping the car up a bit (well tasteful upgrade like new driver's seat, rear camera etc) and zukiworld looks like a place to look.

[cheeryble]

13 minutes ago, Sapporillo said:

Just as jay said, a clutch replacement is a lot more expensive in Europe, so you’re probably not getting ripped off. They need to drop the gearbox (or in some cars, the engine) to do the job, it’s quite a lot of work, plus the parts. If you had it done only a year ago or two (that’s what you wrote in your OP), there’s something wrong, unless you’re a really bad driver or you did a lot of miles during that time. A clutch “should” last about 150’00 km at least. Either the parts they’re using are a lot less durable than the parts we get in Europe, or the last shop installed a used part from a wrecked car, or they billed you for something else. 

I'm going to check at my regular shop if my memory serves right about last replacing the clutch.

Only prob is it'll be too late to get a replacement done free or on discount.

 

When i think, a strange thing:

Just rarely the engine revs would go high in gear as if for a worn clutch.

But other factors (including my fallible memory, also the low pedal depression and good acceleration with no over revving) suggest the clutch wasn't worn at all.

[cheeryble]

Got the car back.

Clutch feels beautifully soft compared to the old one, though they have set the pedal low for my big feet and I will get it adjusted up a bit tomorrow. SO think it wasn't my leg I hope, I'll give it a drive soon.

No cable needed he said.

I repeatedly tried to find out the problem and repeatedly got back "plian clut". I gave up

 

I'm not a clutch expert never done one myself, from the photo does the clutch look worn out. I don't think so.

 

Price 5660

 

 

 

Edited April 5, 2018 by cheeryble

[Lancashirelad]

That's very cheap for a 3 part clutch. I can't read Thai, maybe they only replaced the cover plate?

Its possible they have used cheap remanufactured parts.

 

The clutch pedal want' near the top of it's travel......the opposite.

 

I read that and hence why I wrote:

 

(though in this instance it sounds like it may have been a release bearing issue or failed pressure plate rather than a worn drive plate).

 

What we can't see from here is; do you clutch ride? i.e. keep your foot rested on the pedal much of the time when driving?

Edited April 5, 2018 by Lancashirelad

[cheeryble]

That's very cheap for a 3 part clutch. I can't read Thai, maybe they only replaced the cover plate? Its possible they have used cheap remanufactured parts.  

The clutch pedal want' near the top of it's travel......the opposite.

 

I read that and hence why I wrote:

 

(though in this instance it sounds like it may have been a release bearing issue or failed pressure plate rather than a worn drive plate).

 

What we can't see from here is; do you clutch ride? i.e. keep your foot rested on the pedal much of the time when driving?

 

 

Hi LL and all   I can read enough Thai to see the first item is a "wee" which term is used for a bunch of bananas and I think will be the spring plate as the springs are like fingers.

The second speaks of a "pan" which is more like a sheet or a plate I think so it'll be the clutch disc.

The last item is "ka rang" which is labor cost.

In any case I have been given these two parts from the car along with a release bearing and another smaller bearing.

 

Both the bearings work smoothly and look undamaged.

 

I may be overthinking this but I'm beginning to wonder:

When i asked him what was the problem with the old parts I couldn't get an answer though when I asked about a new cable he said it was OK don't need doing.

Is there anything i should look for as damaged on the plates or the bearings? (Well the bearings are fine.)

There seems to be plenty of wear left on the friction plate.

 

When they first had a go at tightening up the cable to make the pedal action higher it came back so much lower it wasn't possible to go into gear. Surely it's not possible they adjusted it the wrong way?

 

I know.....whats done is done but it's a bit of a detective story for me.

 

 

 

 

[jay1980]

23 hours ago, cheeryble said:

well tasteful upgrade like new driver's seat, rear camera etc

 

I bought a set of really smart sport seats for my Lancer here:

 

https://www.facebook.com/Bypassseat/

 

I choose a set of seats originally from a Mazda RX8, the cost was 8,900 baht including fitting.

 

Far from you in Changmai but should give an idea of the costs

 

I would avoid the copy Recaro or Bride seats (and original Recaro's and Bride seats are a fortune) and go for something that suits the interior that was a OEM seat on a higher spec car.

 

[cheeryble]

  I bought a set of really smart sport seats for my Lancer here:

 

https://www.facebook.com/Bypassseat/

 

I choose a set of seats originally from a Mazda RX8, the cost was 8,900 baht including fitting.

 

Far from you in Changmai but should give an idea of the costs

 

I would avoid the copy Recaro or Bride seats (and original Recaro's and Bride seats are a fortune) and go for something that suits the interior that was a OEM seat on a higher spec car.

 

 

Some very nice seats there Jay....  

It's only the driver seat needs doing the others are as firm as new but the driver's has some sag to the left not so good .

My wife had the front seats recovered in her ageing toyota and the guy did a really good job with a plasticated fabric for 2000 per seat. Fact is theyre pretty comfortable.

I would certainly like to have the kind of posture seats on your link but I think I'll go the simple way and just get the one covered.

It means I won't have to match up the slider base and I can hold fabric samples against the passenger seat to get something to match well. I thin it's important not to get a NEAR match, that always looks failure to me. Better to find something that;s not a match but which SUITS or GOES TOGETHER well with the other seats even if it's quite different.

 

Thanks again for thinking of me.

 

ps I had all the panels with their dings and worse done last week.

Was so proud how nice the old girl looked. 

Next day a big wind in CM something came down on a door just hard enough to scratch to the metal. Not possible to rub out I think though there may be some clever trick.

Maybe with rubbing it will reduce to a much less noticeable size.

When u look at the way the plastic was cut into I think the paint got off lightly

 

 

Edited April 6, 2018 by cheeryble

[Lancashirelad]

Well it looks like they have put a full clutch in it, that's good. 

The cover/pressure/spring plate is very worn and certainly should not have that circular groove in it. I notice you didn't comment on if you clutch ride or not.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 6, 2018 by Lancashirelad

[Sapporillo]

9 hours ago, cheeryble said:

Hi LL and all   I can read enough Thai to see the first item is a "wee" which term is used for a bunch of bananas and I think will be the spring plate as the springs are like fingers.

The second speaks of a "pan" which is more like a sheet or a plate I think so it'll be the clutch disc.

The last item is "ka rang" which is labor cost.

In any case I have been given these two parts from the car along with a release bearing and another smaller bearing.

 

Both the bearings work smoothly and look undamaged.

 

I may be overthinking this but I'm beginning to wonder:

When i asked him what was the problem with the old parts I couldn't get an answer though when I asked about a new cable he said it was OK don't need doing.

Is there anything i should look for as damaged on the plates or the bearings? (Well the bearings are fine.)

There seems to be plenty of wear left on the friction plate.

 

When they first had a go at tightening up the cable to make the pedal action higher it came back so much lower it wasn't possible to go into gear. Surely it's not possible they adjusted it the wrong way?

 

I know.....whats done is done but it's a bit of a detective story for me.

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately I haven’t seen a lot of used clutches to make an assessment, it certainly looks used, but I can’t tell you how much. But please read one of my earlier posts again, I had had a similar problem with a car in the past, and what you described was a symptom of a worn clutch. So I’m not surprised that they installed a new one, plus you said the car drives fine and the pedal feel and everything is ok now,  it certainly seems that they have solved the problem. As for the bearings and the other parts: it is absolutely normal to replace this parts at the same time, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace them at the same time, and I have never met a mechanic who does a clutch job without changing these other parts too. 

To summarise, your problem is fixed, you have a new clutch for, what seems, quite a good price, why do you want them to change the cable as well?

 

Edit: they didn’t change they the cable because if it snaps one day, they don’t have to drop the gearbox to install a new one. If they would have left your old throwout bearing in there and it started seizing in a year, they would need to drop the gearbox to change it. 

Edited April 6, 2018 by Sapporillo

[HauptmannUK]

That pressure plate has seen a lot of use - maybe the original. Whereas the centre plate doesn't look too worn (maybe replaced in the recent past?).

Old pressure plates tend to get work hardened and stiff. The clutch becomes heavy.  Eventually the diaphragm spring can crack.

[Lancashirelad]

Sapporillo said: it is absolutely normal to replace this parts at the same time, it is recommended by the manufacturer to replace them at the same time, and I have never met a mechanic who does a clutch job without changing these other parts too. 

 

It also recommended by the manufacturer to change the brake fluid, diff & gearbox oil from time to time. Very few people do it  ....unless you're paying thru' the nose to take a newer motor to a main stealer dealer. 

 

I agree that any mechanic worth his salt would want fo fit a full clutch kit, but many people on a tight budget only replace the drive plate. I've seen many farmers in the uk do it in the past.

Edited April 7, 2018 by Lancashirelad
typo

[cheeryble]

13 hours ago, HauptmannUK said:

That pressure plate has seen a lot of use - maybe the original. Whereas the centre plate doesn't look too worn (maybe replaced in the recent past?).

Old pressure plates tend to get work hardened and stiff. The clutch becomes heavy.  Eventually the diaphragm spring can crack.

Interesting what you say about the leaves getting hardened and stiff......that could be v relevant.

The clutch sure got heavy.