nJust to clarify here, and regular posters to this forum already know.

 

I am not in need of any advice on how to hang a picture and what tools I need and if you read the op that should be clear.

 

The point is, what is regarded as the simplest diy task ever due to hooks available in the west is not so simple here because they dont sell them.

 

I actually prefer not to drill the wall, and i am sure others do, especially if they have no tools.

 

If a non markable self adhesive can do the job, and from replies it seems they have multi uses then thats a solution for small pictures.

 

And to the person giving advice on an unbranded Chinese Tesco drill, I think a good hammer would trump it.

Thanks for the replies, I think this has been thrashed to death already.

Ask yourself; Is he joking; being sarcastic or being serious?

 

At the great risk of offending many of your admirers I have to ask the question you ask ( above )

 

15 hours ago, eyecatcher said:

aha, I have 4 spirit levels, a cheap laser level and a dumpy level on a tripod.....oh and a 10m water level.

I am a surveyor, but thanks anyway

 And you cannot drill 2 holes to hang a picture ??    

 

personally,  I would not use tape.....  .  Maybe Colin's wife is free this weekend to drill the holes for you

1 minute ago, rumak said:

Ask yourself; Is he joking; being sarcastic or being serious?

 

At the great risk of offending many of your admirers I have to ask the question you ask ( above )

 

 And you cannot drill 2 holes to hang a picture ??    

 

personally,  I would not use tape.....  .  Maybe Colin's wife is free this weekend to drill the holes for you

You are one of many I refer to in my last post.

I dont need help or advice on how to put a screw in a wall.

But hey after spending three years almost single handedly building my house, .....the irony.

Who cares, keep going, I am sure someone has never hung a picture.

16 hours ago, eyecatcher said:

Haha, I have 4 spirit levels, a cheap laser level and a dumpy level on a tripod.....oh and a 10m water level.

I am a surveyor, but thanks anyway

So was I. I could use your dumpy level around here but Chiang Mai is too far away.

1 hour ago, eyecatcher said:

You are one of many I refer to in my last post.

I dont need help or advice on how to put a screw in a wall.

But hey after spending three years almost single handedly building my house, .....the irony.

Who cares, keep going, I am sure someone has never hung a picture.

noting that you are a self proclaimed "flippant member"  I humbly accept your reply.   But surely you can

take a jest as well as give them ?    or not ?

maybe you can take a "shot" at my name.  ( which happens to be short for rumakovich) ????

Edited December 24, 20187 yr by rumak

Problem I always find is when they have used concrete blocks to build is they lay them upside down so there is no cement in them and when u drill it to them they are hollow 

24 minutes ago, Mooner said:

Problem I always find is when they have used concrete blocks to build is they lay them upside down so there is no cement in them and when u drill it to them they are hollow 

similar to the problem i faced in my profession as a brain surgeon....

20 hours ago, flbkk said:

This is a hammer drill at Tesco, the ฿990 is better, out of stock. Better ones at HomePro. Get 1/4” bits and plastic anchors. Better quality drill may be worth it for hard concrete here. Do be mindful of pipes and wires in wall, but in my unity that’s all on surface. Drill the holes, put the anchors in, then screws or hooks. Wood plugs will do in a pinch. 

 

 

 

A heavier duty one here 

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/26mm-900w-3-i162572014-s195927027.html

SDS plus 900W  hammer only ,drill only and drill/hammer   with free  old school chuck and assortment of bits   1650 baht

 

cheaper one same shop   1200W !!!

https://www.lazada.co.th/products/1200-3-i205512762-s310154807.html

Edited December 24, 20187 yr by johng

Do you think a 900w hammer drill should be able to get through my QCon blocks?

A bit concerned now as I only have a makita dhr24 sds 18v.

7 hours ago, rumak said:

noting that you are a self proclaimed "flippant member"  I humbly accept your reply.   But surely you can

take a jest as well as give them ?    or not ?

maybe you can take a "shot" at my name.  ( which happens to be short for rumakovich) ????

I rarely jest on this forum as I leave the flippancy for the CM forum.

 

And why would I take a shot at your name, yet another irony here. I was married to a S---kova for several years, rescued the girl from the Siberian tundra.That was drasstwuitye and das verdanya to comrade wife no2......onto no 3 already.

Good DIY advice on coolthaihouse if I'm allowed to mention it.

32 minutes ago, eyecatcher said:

Do you think a 900w hammer drill should be able to get through my QCon blocks?

A bit concerned now as I only have a makita dhr24 sds 18v.

Absolutely - a feather can get through those blocks - any hammer drill will go through red brick which are much harder.  You have to hold back drilling aerated blocks.  

19 minutes ago, Denim said:

Good DIY advice on coolthaihouse if I'm allowed to mention it.

I will check it out.....I believe theres some brilliant building stories on there, inparticular Eyecatcher but he hasnt got to the hanging picture stage (but will)

10 minutes ago, eyecatcher said:

I will check it out.....I believe theres some brilliant building stories on there, inparticular Eyecatcher but he hasnt got to the hanging picture stage (but will)

I also think that there is someone there who sometimes works with wood who will be getting round to updating his story in the near future???? though I think that Eyecatcher's threads should probably be called a saga rather than story

47 minutes ago, eyecatcher said:

comrade wife no2......onto no 3 already.

i dare not say what number I am on .  I go by that old saying  " if at first you don't succeed....."

Good thing I finally got a keeper ( cross fingers)........cause I truly am getting past the use by date.

 

I work for 3M in the states...if you can find the command product which has the hooks (not the Velcro) for pictures they work the best..two of them on a picture top frame will hold it very well and can do 5-7 pounds. The foam tape which I think is what others have mentioned is very good however it will stick like no tomorrow and removing it from a wooden frame could be difficult. And over time the adhesive will migrate into the wood fiber. Which ever is better the connnand product (easily to remove ) or the foam mounting tape is easier than screws in concrete. Sounds like when I retire there I should bring plenty of command hooks and mounting tape

I work for 3M in the states...if you can find the command product which has the hooks (not the Velcro) for pictures they work the best..two of them on a picture top frame will hold it very well and can do 5-7 pounds. The foam tape which I think is what others have mentioned is very good however it will stick like no tomorrow and removing it from a wooden frame could be difficult. And over time the adhesive will migrate into the wood fiber. Which ever is better the connnand product (easily to remove ) or the foam mounting tape is easier than screws in concrete. Sounds like when I retire there I should bring plenty of command hooks and mounting tape

I just bought some of the Scotch clear mounting tape and although it’s very good I find the red backing very difficult to remove without damaging the tape.
Do you have any miracle fix for this ?

It's the day after Christmas!  Just take that new hammer drill that you got yesterday and put a long 3/8 concrete bit in it . Mark the place on the wall and drill completely through the wall.  Go to the other side and drive a long 3/8 bolt through it, secure it with a nut and washer and you can hang anything on it that you want.  After you are finished ask the "wifie" where she wants the next picture hung.  I imagine that that will be the last tine she asks you to hang a picture.  But be careful though it might be you that is hanging when the dust settles!                !

Double post!    !

Edited December 26, 20187 yr by wayned

20 hours ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

I just bought some of the Scotch clear mounting tape and although it’s very good I find the red backing very difficult to remove without damaging the tape.
Do you have any miracle fix for this ?

The liner can be difficult to remove and the best tool is good nails actually..another tip..assuming the tape is applied to the surface when you start to remove the liner do not pull it at 90 degrees to the surface,,,pull it at a low angle away from the tape like 30 degrees. 

 

20 hours ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

I just bought some of the Scotch clear mounting tape and although it’s very good I find the red backing very difficult to remove without damaging the tape.
Do you have any miracle fix for this ?

Andrew, I think you might be using this tape (picture) versus the thicker mounting tape? If I am right the best way I have found is to firmly press the tape onto the surface very well, especially the edge where you will try and remove the liner, then take an Xacto knive or corner of singe edge razo to start and lift the line at the edge. if the tape is securely applied the force to release the liner will be very easy and it will lift.

 

Andrew, I think you might be using this tape (picture) versus the thicker mounting tape? If I am right the best way I have found is to firmly press the tape onto the surface very well, especially the edge where you will try and remove the liner, then take an Xacto knive or corner of singe edge razo to start and lift the line at the edge. if the tape is securely applied the force to release the liner will be very easy and it will lift.

 

Thanks for the tips Bernie , actually it’s this one I’m using.

48 minutes ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

Thanks for the tips Bernie , actually it’s this one I’m using.

That tape is designed never to come off and is similar to, if not the same, as tape used to permanently fix glass panes in highrise buildings and join aircraft parts together. The VHB stands for Very High Bond. And it's not the Scotch range it's much stronger.

 

The best way to get the backing off is to fit it to one surface then using a sharp pointed knife (box cutter, Stanley etc) a little way from a corner go through the backing toward the corner using the point to lift not cut. And yes it is more difficult to get off than any other double sided tape.

 

Be carful with that tape as once stuck it isn't coming of and isn't moving, the bond gets stronger over a few hours.

 

I'm going to be using it to add mosquito netting to some windows soon. 

Edited December 27, 20187 yr by sometimewoodworker

This video will make clear what I was talking about

3M VHB backing removed  though I suggest you don't do it on the roll as I demonstrated, I didn't have a project complete to use it on assembled and ready now.

Edited December 27, 20187 yr by sometimewoodworker

We told you using this was overkill.

16 hours ago, Andrew Dwyer said:

Thanks for the tips Bernie , actually it’s this one I’m using.

 

Andrew as mentioned in the recent post you are using a very high tech tape that is used in automotive assembly, aircraft etc. It is great for bonding and the bonding strength will improve over time to the maximum. if the items you are bonding are desired to stay together this is the very best product on the market...but if you want to remove amd separate them will be very difficult. I have used this VHB and as mentioned the easy way to remove the liner is with an exacto knife or similar to lift the liner edge and pull it off. 

 

 

 

 

 

A troll post containing an inappropriate photo has been removed.  

Could try one of these but doubt the wall would stand it 

 

1 hour ago, Daffy D said:

Could try one of these but doubt the wall would stand it 

 

Actually had a tech try out one of those on wall of Adamjee Court in Bangladesh some 46 years ago and nail traveled through the wall and into the next wall 15 feet away - lucky nobody in room.