Nirmal Purja The avalanche that tore across Pakistan's Broad Peak did more than claim six lives. It wiped out some of the world's most accomplished Nepali mountain guides, including legendary British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja, leaving Nepal's mountaineering community reeling from a loss many believe will be felt for years. Together, the six guides had reached the summit of Mount Everest dozens of times and achieved feats once considered impossible. They helped redefine what Nepali guides, often known as Sherpas, could accomplish, transforming their image from support staff into world-class mountaineers in their own right. Broad Peak avalanche Among the dead was Purja, 43, widely known as Nims, who became globally famous after climbing all 14 of the world's peaks above 8,000 metres in just over six months. He was leading a 10-member international expedition on Broad Peak, the world's 12th-highest mountain, when the avalanche struck last week. "Nims of course was iconic and undisputedly amongst the best of his generation," said Ben Ayers, a long-time Everest reporter for Outside Magazine. His death has become the defining tragedy of a disaster that also claimed five other elite Nepali climbers. Kili Pemba Sherpa, 46, had only weeks earlier completed the coveted mountaineering Grand Slam by summiting all 14 eight-thousanders. He had already secured his place in climbing history after joining Purja's Nepali team that completed the first winter ascent of K2 in January 2021, ending the last great winter challenge among the world's highest mountains. Friends and colleagues described Kili Pemba as humble and deeply committed to his clients. He had guided two double-leg amputees, on separate expeditions, to the summits of Everest and Manaslu, a feat government official Gyanendra Shrestha described as one of the toughest assignments any guide could face. Pur Bahadur Gurung, 37, had climbed 12 of the world's 14 highest peaks and was one of only around 100 Nepali guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA). Nepal tourism spokesman Himal Gautam said earning that qualification demanded exceptional dedication, adding that it highlighted the scale of the loss suffered on Broad Peak. Pur Bahadur had also helped make headlines in 2024 after joining the team that discovered a century-old boot on Everest believed to belong to British climber Andrew Irvine, who disappeared in 1924. The other victims were equally respected. Gyaljen Sherpa became renowned for climbing Kanchenjunga three times in a single season, a feat colleagues believe deserves Guinness World Records recognition. Nima Sherpa, 36, had already summited four eight-thousanders during 2026, while Nawang Thindu Sherpa was regarded as one of Nepal's brightest young guides. the Karakoram range Every spring, many Nepali guides lead climbers across Nepal's Himalayan peaks. During the summer monsoon, some move to Pakistan's remote Karakoram range, home to five mountains above 8,000 metres but attracting only around 15,000 hikers each year compared with more than one million adventure travellers who visit the Himalayas annually. Many credit Purja with helping put Pakistan firmly on the global climbing map. His record-breaking ascent of all 14 highest peaks, later documented in a Netflix film, inspired both foreign climbers and fellow Nepali guides to tackle the country's formidable mountains. "Nims' success gave many guides and foreigners the courage to believe that this mountaineering crown was truly possible," said Nepal Mountaineering Association acting president Iswari Paudel. Ben Ayers added that Purja helped usher in "a new era of mountaineering", while also accelerating commercialisation and increasing risk. Pakistan's peaks remain among the world's toughest climbing environments. Unlike Nepal, where trekking routes, lodges and rescue networks are well established, expeditions in the Karakoram require guides to fix ropes, carve steps into ice and establish camps with limited helicopter access in emergencies. Twenty-year-old record-holder Nima Rinji Sherpa said only the most experienced guides usually operate there because of the pressure and technical demands. Climbers often attempt multiple mountains during one expedition because of the region's remoteness, making schedules especially demanding. Despite the Broad Peak disaster, experts believe the tragedy is unlikely to fundamentally change high-altitude climbing. Ayers said fatal accidents often trigger concern before the sport returns to normal, while researcher Medhavi Gulati argued that the danger itself remains part of mountaineering's attraction. Veteran climber and writer Alan Arnette pointed to previous disasters, including the 2014 Everest ice avalanche that killed 16 Sherpas and the 2008 K2 tragedy that claimed 11 climbers, saying history suggests little will change. "I doubt the Broad Peak incident will have a significant impact, given history. I hope I'm wrong," he said. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/cm2ge4dnj80o
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