Our Man in the Tropics Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Dear Fellow Thaivisa.com Posters, I would be grateful for all yer constructive relevant input to the following proposal ; "System of "cheap type" 25mm thick Plywood Sheets [ perhaps costing some THB 500 in main hardware chain stores ] that are then covered in "rubbery" Mastic [ for elastic response, & ease of removal -- if wanted later -- by solvent & scraper ], & then butted edge-to-edge according to area to be covered, & then surfaced with suitable floor tiles, is "feasible" option as top floor supporting the comings & goins of a pickup truck motorized vehicle ? Thanking yee all, in advance, for yer most helpful kind relevant replies. Regards, Our Man in the Tropics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VocalNeal Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Might be easier if you described your problem rather than asking for opinions on your solution? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Man in the Tropics Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 (edited) Hi VocalNeal, That approach which u propose is very worthy in itself often ; However : 1_ the main problem, or rather the main challenge, is already implicit in what I wrote, viz. support the comings, & goings, of a pickup motorized vehicle ultimately supported on hard earth ground 2_ the proposal's problem, or rather the proposal's challenge, is whether ipso-facto it is feasible to be successful >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>. Worthy as ur proposed approach to arriving at feasible solution is in many situations,- I am confident that u would accede to Henry Ford's statement ; "If I had performed Market Research,- the market would have only informed me to get a faster horse." [ or words similar ] >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> By the way,- I should have mentioned that the sheet of plywood is meant to be completely covered in rubbery-mastic for more than 1 reason, incl. prevent the sheet from decay by microbes prevent the sheet from decay by pests Edited May 13, 2020 by Our Man in the Tropics 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sometimewoodworker Posted May 13, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted May 13, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Our Man in the Tropics said: "System of "cheap type" 25mm thick Plywood Sheets [ perhaps costing some THB 500 in main hardware chain stores ] that are then covered in "rubbery" Mastic [ for elastic response, & ease of removal -- if wanted later -- by solvent & scraper ], & then butted edge-to-edge according to area to be covered, & then surfaced with suitable floor tiles, is "feasible" option as top floor supporting the comings & goins of a pickup truck motorized vehicle ? The local termites will be extremely happy. You will very shortly have crazy paving as the substrate flexes and many tiles break. so if feeding local wildlife and breaking tiles is something you consider feasible then yes ???? PS The only prevention against termite attack is wood treatment, mastic does nothing. Edited May 13, 2020 by sometimewoodworker 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornishcarlos Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Why don't you just do it and then report back with the outcome, as Henry Ford would have done. Otherwise you'll just be told to use concrete !! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 I doubt you would get more than 1 coming-and-going before breaking tile on plywood. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwasaki Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 OP I have no idea what you propose, pix diagram something. Anyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Man in the Tropics Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, sometimewoodworker said: The local termites will be extremely happy. You will very shortly have crazy paving as the substrate flexes and many tiles break. so if feeding local wildlife and breaking tiles is something you consider feasible then yes ???? PS The only prevention against termite attack is wood treatment, mastic does nothing. Well, sometimewoodworker, ur answer is very convincing ; Is / Are there some good & cheap & relatively safe effective wood-treatment that will result in a durable substrate ? e.g.s 1_ wood product substrate pre-treated by its manufacturer ? 2_ wood product substrate post-treated by customer >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Perhaps,- I should consider the option of using "hot-dipped galvanized checkered-plate of 10 mm thickness" ? Would this be a hazard for lightening strikes or mains electricity shorting ? Should it be earthed to a properly buried copper rod ? Addendum ; Think of this floor as a moveable floor as would suit a Falang who may have to relocate with this floor transported by truck & re-laid & added to according to new location. Edited May 13, 2020 by Our Man in the Tropics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VocalNeal Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 3 hours ago, Our Man in the Tropics said: 1_ the main problem, or rather the main challenge, is already implicit in what I wrote, viz. support the comings, & goings, of a pickup motorized vehicle ultimately supported on hard earth ground If the ground is hard compacted earth why will it not support a pickup? So do you wish to stop the pickup leaving tire tracks or do you wish to stop alighting passengers from getting said earth on their shoes or...do you not want to lie one bare earth while changing the oil or... Put plywood on bare earth if you wish but there maybe (sic) a better way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 Plywood on the ground, in the weather, is not going to last long no matter what you do to it. And gluing tile to it will break the first time you put the pickup on top of it. Get enough bricks to handle the area of your PU and then throw them in the back when you move. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VocalNeal Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 (edited) Ah now it has to be transportable in a truck maybe the same pickup to a new location. Edited May 13, 2020 by VocalNeal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bankruatsteve Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 31 minutes ago, Our Man in the Tropics said: Perhaps,- I should consider the option of using "hot-dipped galvanized checkered-plate of 10 mm thickness" ? Would this be a hazard for lightening strikes or mains electricity shorting ? Should it be earthed to a properly buried copper rod ? That would probably do it but you would never be able to lift it out without heavy equipment. No need to worry about lightning or earthing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Man in the Tropics Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 Further to latest helpful replies, viz. from VocalNeal & Bankruatsteve,- I realise that I need to clarify about the so-called hard-ground surface that I refer to ; compacted earth visually level covered by adjoining roofs but open to elements at opposite ends unattractive non-uniform surface soiling as mud when wet ; Yes,- prone to being muddy with water spillages, or heavy rain intrusion soiling as dust when dry I now convinced that my initial proposal -- even with flexible rubbery mastic bonding suitable ceramic tiling for comings, & goings, of pickup motorized vehicle, is NOT a feasible solution for my problem / challenge Even if this proposal was optimized for to succeed,- I dare-say that it would prove to be : difficult for to source satisfactory substrate expensive on substrate, & tiles And, so, further to this brain-storming session,- I now hope to get yer assistance as to the prices for : 10 mm Hot-dipped Galvanised Plate 12 mm Hot-dipped Galvanised Plate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 2 hours ago, Our Man in the Tropics said: 10 mm Hot-dipped Galvanised Plate Probably not easy to find, weight 78.5kg/m2 if you can you need a crane as it’s going to be about 1.2 tons and that is without the brick/blocks. You then need to find a way of stopping the blocks moving. abandon the idea. Put down shade cloth or blue plastic sheet then a few cubic metres of crushed stone, job done probably costing about 5,000 baht. we did this as a temporary drive 5 years ago 5 years later Does it look beautiful? No. Is it practical? Absolutely. Will we ever make it into a conventional drive? Probably no. We may get round to killing the grass sometime but we don’t notice it . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northsouthdevide Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 I think you're better just dropping the wood idea, as it would be about as useful as a glass hammer. If you want to do cheap, just order a truck load of black stone chippings from your local building supplier, and lay it over your hard soil, then you can come and go as much as you want. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 7 hours ago, northsouthdevide said: I think you're better just dropping the wood idea, as it would be about as useful as a glass hammer. If you want to do cheap, just order a truck load of black stone chippings from your local building supplier, and lay it over your hard soil, then you can come and go as much as you want. If you do that they will disappear within a year or 2, you need something under the stone as I show above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 12 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said: If you do that they will disappear within a year or 2, you need something under the stone as I show above. We just top up with more stone every now and then to fill in the low bits. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacessit Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Unless one can find plywood that has been treated with CCA here ( unlikely ) , that solution is not practical. Perhaps the OP is overthinking the situation, I've found cement driveways here are very cheap to have done. A few thousand baht. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornishcarlos Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Geo fabrics, with stone chippings on top... ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 3 hours ago, Crossy said: We just top up with more stone every now and then to fill in the low bits. We found that putting shade cloth or blue sheet under we don’t have to top up, only redistribute each year or so. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 26 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said: We found that putting shade cloth or blue sheet under we don’t have to top up, only redistribute each year or so. I agree, but our drive was never really intended to become permanent, it just ended up that way ???? In reality I don't think we've actually added more than a load or two of gravel since 2012, it's reached equilibrium with the minimal traffic it sees. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 13 minutes ago, Crossy said: I agree, but our drive was never really intended to become permanent, it just ended up that way ???? That was exactly the intention with ours but since we had both the shade cloth and blue sheet here our temporary had that under it. FWIW the picture above is SWMBO’s new iPhone night mode I think that mode is impressive. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMartinHandyman Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 Reinventing the wheel should never be abandoned. Post some pictures of the process should you actually do this. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodga Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 5 hours ago, Lacessit said: Unless one can find plywood that has been treated with CCA here ( unlikely ) , that solution is not practical. Perhaps the OP is overthinking the situation, I've found cement driveways here are very cheap to have done. A few thousand baht. 1700 baht a cube 10cm thick = 10m2 plus 2 men and long board/steel to level, also some steel mesh inside ok for small trucks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Mega Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 17 hours ago, Our Man in the Tropics said: 10 mm Hot-dipped Galvanised Plate Good luck with that, a few issues though. 1. Nice and slippery when wet. 2. Weight, a 2400 x 1200 sheet will weigh 226kg. 3. you will be hard pressed to find a company in Thailand to hot dip gal the plate and not warp it badly... we gave up and send all our hot dip work off shore. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirineou Posted May 14, 2020 Share Posted May 14, 2020 As a professional with 30 years of experience in the fabrication of concrete forms I have probably used millions of dollars of 5/8s thick plywood. Both BB for one time use and plastic face for Typical. WHAT TYPE OF SURFACE will the plywood be laid on? regardless of the surface Using plywood for exterior use , as a driving surface is a terrible idea!!! _First you have the termite problem that you might or might not be able to defeat with chemical treatments _Second, depending on the quality and quantity of the fungicides ( mostly formalgahide) used in the manufacture of plywood, you have mold and mildew that will start to consume your plywood as soon as it gets wet. -Then you have delamination. Plywood, as the word implies , is several layers of wood veneer glued together. It is only a matter of time before the glue starts to fail , as it is attacked by mold. (starting with the edges) Them you have warping . water infiltration will increase the thickness of the ply by a significant amount. I have seen 5/8s plywood look like 3/4 after getting wet. If the surface is uneven the plywood will conform to the surface and since the tiles are not pliable you can imagine what will happen, All these will happen with the plywood just laying there, Then start driving a car over it........... 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Man in the Tropics Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 (edited) After replying to another thread which I started around same time as this one,- I also was hindered by my computer & / or internet connection from replying earlier to the most recent posts following my mine in this very thread. Anyway,- many thanks for very useful info. & opinions in what is a brain-storming type of thread. CLARIFICATION [ & APOLOGY FOR OMITTING IT IN PROPOSITION FOR USE OF "SHEET" METAL ] ; 1_ "Sheet" Metal should be termed as "Plate" Metal in this context ; Because of the thicknesses considered ; 6 mm or 8 mm or 10 mm 2_ Surface of the Plate Metal should be : 2_1_ Checkered [ hence "Checkered Plate" ] or 2_2_ 2_2_1_ Perforated "Pre"-perforated or 2_2_2_ "Post"-perforated [ subsequent to purchase as material from metal supplier ] ; Perforations preferably are "flared-upwards" AND "without" burrs ; or 2_3_ Grating 2_3_1_ "Pre"-formed [ Mesh ] ; 6 mm gauge min. or 2_3_2_ "Post"-formed Rod welded together ; 6 mm gauge min. Re ; 2_2_ & 2_3_ above Thus,- facilitated are : anti-slip for user drainage However,- this design feature may be a mistake versus safety against snakes ; "Snake in the Grass" as concern then expanding to "Snake in the Car-Port Decking" ... ???? 3_ Metallurgical Quality of the material must be : 3_1_ "Hot-dipped Galvanised" Steel or 3_2_ Aluminum Edited May 18, 2020 by Our Man in the Tropics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sometimewoodworker Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 (edited) 11 hours ago, Our Man in the Tropics said: CLARIFICATION [ & APOLOGY FOR OMITTING IT IN PROPOSITION FOR USE OF "SHEET" METAL ] ; The intention of your post above is not at all clear. The consensus is that using metal in the way you suggest with the intention of being able to move it is an expensive poor idea that probably has little chance of working and would probably need heavy machines to place and move. Edited May 18, 2020 by sometimewoodworker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Man in the Tropics Posted May 20, 2020 Author Share Posted May 20, 2020 Hi sometimewoodworker, I would include ur latest post as a quote ; But,- my computer / internet is again acting-up. I appreciate that which u say ; Indeed,- I now agree with it except that the following options are worthy of pursuit : 1_ "Aluminum Chequered Plate of 6mm or 8 mm or 10 mm : should fulfill : functionally criterium 1 person man-handling criterium durability criterium [ some 10 years ] may [ guessing only ] be too expensive for my budget 2_ Stainless Steel Checquered Plate of 5 mm ; should fulfill : functional criterium 1 person man-handling durability criterium [ some 15 years ] may [ guessing only ] be too expensive for my budget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossy Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 You may find this site handy http://www.aalco.co.uk/online-tools/weight-calculator/ A 2m x 1m piece of 10mm aluminium will weigh about 55kg. A 2m x 1m piece of 5mm steel will weigh about 80kg. Placing either on your levelled and compacted sand base is not going to be a 1 person task. How are you going to stop the plate tipping when the vehicle is driven over the edge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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