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Posted

post-140969-13594630349142_thumb.jpgpost-140969-13594630512447_thumb.jpg

I bought a comic, cut out the pages, and glued the pages.

What do you guys think? I did it to change the look for BMF.

I normally wouldn't say anything, but as you've asked for opinions, I have to ask, 'what were you thinking?'
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Posted

I bought a comic, cut out the pages, and glued the pages.

What do you guys think? I did it to change the look for BMF.

Its different smile.png

You know I saw a Ducati disguise a new bike while street testing it

doing something similar but I don't remember what website it was on

I have also seen some killer wraps being done these days in all kinds of colors.

Cool you did it on your own.

Yea I did it on my own. I got the idea from a YouTube video. It was actually pretty fun to do.

Posted

post-140969-13594630349142_thumb.jpgpost-140969-13594630512447_thumb.jpg

I bought a comic, cut out the pages, and glued the pages.

What do you guys think? I did it to change the look for BMF.

I normally wouldn't say anything, but as you've asked for opinions, I have to ask, 'what were you thinking?'

I was just thinking I had a full set of extra fairing the my CBR just siting at home not doing anything. I figured why not do something with it. I liked how it looked so I tried it on.

I think I'll just use it until I get tired of t then switch back to the painted side later.

For now it's something new and I just sometimes get bored of the same old thing.

Posted

I think the comic wrap looks great.

Good on ya.

As far as the chain etc, what's the point on spending loads of money on it when you have to change the whole thing every 10,000kms.

:huh:

I changed the chain and sprokets on my CBR250 after 40k+ km. And that was purely preventive maintenance.

I buy 3 cans of Veloil lube, sent to my house for 350b. I lube it probably twice a week. The 3 cans will last about 10,000km.

What on Earth are you on about?

Posted

As far as the chain etc, what's the point on spending loads of money on it when you have to change the whole thing every 10,000kms.

imagine the sitaution

your cruising between two cars at 150

your chain snaps and you get squashed like a bug because the guy behind didnt see your brake lights or any indication you were slowing down

also snapped chains have been known to tangle around and lock up the back wheel which usually causes a catastropic crash

ps .your chain would last much longer than 10,000km if you bothered to lubricate it

Posted

I think the comic wrap looks great.

Good on ya.

As far as the chain etc, what's the point on spending loads of money on it when you have to change the whole thing every 10,000kms.

huh.png

I changed the chain and sprokets on my CBR250 after 40k+ km. And that was purely preventive maintenance.

I buy 3 cans of Veloil lube, sent to my house for 350b. I lube it probably twice a week. The 3 cans will last about 10,000km.

What on Earth are you on about?

Well, I have a CBR150, everytime the chain got a bit slack I took it to Honda and they adjusted and oiled it. I'm no mechanic but I could see they adjust the bolts and the rear wheel moves back a bit to tighten the chain. I was about 10-12000kms before the wheel couldnt be moved back anymore as it was at the limit. I was told I needed to change the chain and sprockets and that this was normal for this mileage. I thought that seemed a bit soon so I carried on riding it. Eventually the chain got very slack again until it actually came off twice. I went to another Honda dealer and was told again that the chain and sprokets needed to be changed and that was normal for this mileage.

So you tell me because I don't know. Even I could see the wheel couldn't be pulled back anymore.

Posted

I think the comic wrap looks great.

Good on ya.

As far as the chain etc, what's the point on spending loads of money on it when you have to change the whole thing every 10,000kms.

huh.png

I changed the chain and sprokets on my CBR250 after 40k+ km. And that was purely preventive maintenance.

I buy 3 cans of Veloil lube, sent to my house for 350b. I lube it probably twice a week. The 3 cans will last about 10,000km.

What on Earth are you on about?

Well, I have a CBR150, everytime the chain got a bit slack I took it to Honda and they adjusted and oiled it. I'm no mechanic but I could see they adjust the bolts and the rear wheel moves back a bit to tighten the chain. I was about 10-12000kms before the wheel couldnt be moved back anymore as it was at the limit. I was told I needed to change the chain and sprockets and that this was normal for this mileage. I thought that seemed a bit soon so I carried on riding it. Eventually the chain got very slack again until it actually came off twice. I went to another Honda dealer and was told again that the chain and sprokets needed to be changed and that was normal for this mileage.

So you tell me because I don't know. Even I could see the wheel couldn't be pulled back anymore.

You should lube the chain every 500km. Thats what Honda recommends in the user manual. While doing the lubrication you should check if the slack of the chain is more than 40mm. if it is you should adjust it to 30-40mm. There is a english user manual. I guess the link is somewhere in this thread.

You should not wait with lubrication till the chain slack needs to be adjusted blink.png

Posted

I think the comic wrap looks great.

Good on ya.

As far as the chain etc, what's the point on spending loads of money on it when you have to change the whole thing every 10,000kms.

huh.png

I changed the chain and sprokets on my CBR250 after 40k+ km. And that was purely preventive maintenance.

I buy 3 cans of Veloil lube, sent to my house for 350b. I lube it probably twice a week. The 3 cans will last about 10,000km.

What on Earth are you on about?

Well, I have a CBR150, everytime the chain got a bit slack I took it to Honda and they adjusted and oiled it. I'm no mechanic but I could see they adjust the bolts and the rear wheel moves back a bit to tighten the chain. I was about 10-12000kms before the wheel couldnt be moved back anymore as it was at the limit. I was told I needed to change the chain and sprockets and that this was normal for this mileage. I thought that seemed a bit soon so I carried on riding it. Eventually the chain got very slack again until it actually came off twice. I went to another Honda dealer and was told again that the chain and sprokets needed to be changed and that was normal for this mileage.

So you tell me because I don't know. Even I could see the wheel couldn't be pulled back anymore.

You should lube the chain every 500km. Thats what Honda recommends in the user manual. While doing the lubrication you should check if the slack of the chain is more than 40mm. if it is you should adjust it to 30-40mm. There is a english user manual. I guess the link is somewhere in this thread.

You should not wait with lubrication till the chain slack needs to be adjusted blink.png

It was lubed every 500km.

Posted

The 150 has the crap Thai made DID chain.

The 250 has the good Japanese made chain.

sizes are 480 and 520, respectively, I think.

A good upgrade after the first chain is done would be to buy a good one. Perhaps the Jap made DID chains also come in 480, but cost a bit more than the local made crap.

Posted

post-153149-0-68896200-1359534402_thumb.

I think the comic wrap looks great.

Good on ya.

As far as the chain etc, what's the point on spending loads of money on it when you have to change the whole thing every 10,000kms.

huh.png

I changed the chain and sprokets on my CBR250 after 40k+ km. And that was purely preventive maintenance.

I buy 3 cans of Veloil lube, sent to my house for 350b. I lube it probably twice a week. The 3 cans will last about 10,000km.

What on Earth are you on about?

Well, I have a CBR150, everytime the chain got a bit slack I took it to Honda and they adjusted and oiled it. I'm no mechanic but I could see they adjust the bolts and the rear wheel moves back a bit to tighten the chain. I was about 10-12000kms before the wheel couldnt be moved back anymore as it was at the limit. I was told I needed to change the chain and sprockets and that this was normal for this mileage. I thought that seemed a bit soon so I carried on riding it. Eventually the chain got very slack again until it actually came off twice. I went to another Honda dealer and was told again that the chain and sprokets needed to be changed and that was normal for this mileage.

So you tell me because I don't know. Even I could see the wheel couldn't be pulled back anymore.

Mac, the reason your chain wore so quickly might actually be down to the `mechanics` who adjusted it. I`ve seen them here adjust every single millimetre of slack out of a chain, without even rotating it to find the tightest spot before beginning, and then not bother to align it. A chain needs a bit of slack and also to run true. 10-12000kms chain life on an engine with low torque like the CBR150R does seem short. The best thing is to learn how to do it yourself, it`s simple even if you have limited or no mechanical knowledge. I use an alignment tool that I bought in the UK (see photo) for a tenner; it clamps to the swingarm. You`ll lose power through a poorly adjusted and lubricated chain, so it`s worth maintaining it; it doesn`t take long.
Posted

Just some numbers.

My CBR 150 R i is now just started out on its third chain at 30,000 km. So I am going through chain and sprocket sets at the rate of one per 15,000 km.

Posted
Just some numbers.

My CBR 150 R i is now just started out on its third chain at 30,000 km. So I am going through chain and sprocket sets at the rate of one per 15,000 km.

When the chain can't be tighten any more I have the guys at Honda cut the chain to use the chain a little longer. After the first cut I change both chain and sprockets. My bikes on its 3rd. Chain at 23K.

I get me chain and sprockets for under 500 baht. From a local bike shop. 428 chain and 15 tooth/ 42 tooth sprockets. OEM would be 15/43. Bit for the Honda sprockets and chain it's about 1k baht.

Posted

bearing grease on the chain

Got a name and where you buy it?

I'll post a photo when I get it back from a buddy that borrowed it. A small plastic jar of it is cheap as anything and it lasts forever. The stuff I use is red by the way and very sticky so not much fling as long as you don't leave large gobs of it on the chain when you put it on. You can buy it at any hardware or auto parts store.
Posted (edited)

Yes as others said chains should be tightened till the right amount of slack remains.

If tightened full tight they will have to stretch when the bikes suspension is compressed.

As to the whole lube debate

You know I have to admit that when I look closely at the O-Ring type chains I sometimes wonder

if they need lube at all

I guess something to keep the O-rings from drying out is good measure but other than that

I am not sure we need anything other than a soap & water wash to get the grit off.

My main concern with chains has always been the spot between the outer & inner plates to

prevent binding or a stuck link. But that was the old technology & when you look at the O-ring

chains there really is nothing to lube. Except again to keep that rubber supple

Unless your chain is filthy it is not going to rust the plates or rollers for a very long time

& before that happens I would imagine you might be stretched past the limit & need a new chain anyway.

But again that O-ring can use something surely. Especially if anyone uses any fuel like cleaners that may dry the rubber.

I note companies that endorse DID like a synthetic spray. Again probably because of those rubber O or X rings

I tend to think the only thing these modern chains now need is to stay clean & keep the rubber from drying out.

The problem with grease is unless it really seals the parts I would be more worried it acts like a dirt/dust magnet

because for any rust to start or take hold it need that dirt/grit & some moisture.

I don't know & am just thinking out loud wink.png

Here is an exploded view of a modern chain

Edited by mania
Posted

Yes as others said chains should be tightened till the right amount of slack remains.

If tightened full tight they will have to stretch when the bikes suspension is compressed.

As to the whole lube debate

You know I have to admit that when I look closely at the O-Ring type chains I sometimes wonder

if they need lube at all

I guess something to keep the O-rings from drying out is good measure but other than that

I am not sure we need anything other than a soap & water wash to get the grit off.

My main concern with chains has always been the spot between the outer & inner plates to

prevent binding or a stuck link. But that was the old technology & when you look at the O-ring

chains there really is nothing to lube. Except again to keep that rubber supple

Unless your chain is filthy it is not going to rust the plates or rollers for a very long time

& before that happens I would imagine you might be stretched past the limit & need a new chain anyway.

But again that O-ring can use something surely. Especially if anyone uses any fuel like cleaners that may dry the rubber.

I note companies that endorse DID like a synthetic spray. Again probably because of those rubber O or X rings

I tend to think the only thing these modern chains now need is to stay clean & keep the rubber from drying out.

The problem with grease is unless it really seals the parts I would be more worried it acts like a dirt/dust magnet

because for any rust to start or take hold it need that dirt/grit & some moisture.

I don't know & am just thinking out loud wink.png

Here is an exploded view of a modern chain

One of the best products to preserve rubber is glycerine based liquid soap as sold in hand dispensers in the supermarket. Voila, a lubricated and clean chain in one smile.png . Could be worth a try on an O or X ring.
Posted

Yes as others said chains should be tightened till the right amount of slack remains.

If tightened full tight they will have to stretch when the bikes suspension is compressed.

As to the whole lube debate

You know I have to admit that when I look closely at the O-Ring type chains I sometimes wonder

if they need lube at all

I guess something to keep the O-rings from drying out is good measure but other than that

I am not sure we need anything other than a soap & water wash to get the grit off.

My main concern with chains has always been the spot between the outer & inner plates to

prevent binding or a stuck link. But that was the old technology & when you look at the O-ring

chains there really is nothing to lube. Except again to keep that rubber supple

Unless your chain is filthy it is not going to rust the plates or rollers for a very long time

& before that happens I would imagine you might be stretched past the limit & need a new chain anyway.

But again that O-ring can use something surely. Especially if anyone uses any fuel like cleaners that may dry the rubber.

I note companies that endorse DID like a synthetic spray. Again probably because of those rubber O or X rings

I tend to think the only thing these modern chains now need is to stay clean & keep the rubber from drying out.

The problem with grease is unless it really seals the parts I would be more worried it acts like a dirt/dust magnet

because for any rust to start or take hold it need that dirt/grit & some moisture.

I don't know & am just thinking out loud wink.png

Here is an exploded view of a modern chain

But the "all new" CBR150R has no O- or X-Ring chain, or am i wrong? I guess they need some lubrication sometimes smile.png

Posted (edited)

i use chain wax as shown below ,not the cheapest at 600+ thb for a big can but i spray it on top of the original manufacturers lubrication that comes on 0-ring chains and that gives me some peace of mind that my chain is lubricated and rain will not wash off the wax coating so easily like it does to thin oils such as transmission oil that many people including some bike manufacturers recommend

https://www.google.c...4Do_PrQeaq4G4DA

ps : dont allow anyone to blast your chain with a high pressure washer such as most car washes use ,a bikes drive chain and electricals is not protected as well as a car so pressure not much stronger than a garden hose is a good idea when washing

Edited by YipYipYa123
Posted

With Black Panda and Briggsy, it seems I'm not the only one then who's having to change the chain and sprockets around 12,000kms. If the 250s last 40Kms seems like the 150s got a bum deal in this respect.

Which brings me back to my first point of why spend lots of money on lube when you have to change the the whole thing after just a few months?

Posted
With Black Panda and Briggsy, it seems I'm not the only one then who's having to change the chain and sprockets around 12,000kms. If the 250s last 40Kms seems like the 150s got a bum deal in this respect.

Which brings me back to my first point of why spend lots of money on lube when you have to change the the whole thing after just a few months?

I know some people that have changed the 150 chain 428 to a 250 chain 520. They said they never I had to tighten there chain in a year. But then I didn't really believe them.

If you ride 10k-15k in a few months you should probably keep an eye on that chain on a day basis. Plus with the rain coming soon it a good idea to lube the chain so that it doesn't snap or screeches out.

There is also something I've heard of

It's called a Scott oiler

Posted

But the "all new" CBR150R has no O- or X-Ring chain, or am i wrong? I guess they need some lubrication sometimes smile.png

I did not know any of the big 4 brands still used the old style chains.

If so, for sure lube would be important.

But also one wonders if they are cutting costs that way, how poor the quality of that chain might be.

On another thought & not that I like the enclosed look ;)

But scooters like the Honda Wave with their enclosed chain

I wonder how well they do?

Posted

With Black Panda and Briggsy, it seems I'm not the only one then who's having to change the chain and sprockets around 12,000kms. If the 250s last 40Kms seems like the 150s got a bum deal in this respect.

Which brings me back to my first point of why spend lots of money on lube when you have to change the the whole thing after just a few months?

because if a chain snaps in traffic it could cost you your life .......

not to mention it could saw through your leg like a chainsaw...(expensive )

or smash the engine case and gearbox to bits (expensive )

bottle of oil (cheap )

Posted

Why not paying double/triple and buying a good quality chain? Not available?

I remember end of buying an expensive chain coming from japan for my cbr150 old model and had no problems.

If chain snaps, you are in biker hell directly if you are lucky!

Posted

Why not paying double/triple and buying a good quality chain? Not available?

I remember end of buying an expensive chain coming from japan for my cbr150 old model and had no problems.

If chain snaps, you are in biker hell directly if you are lucky!

I have no problems with my chain. I lube and clean it often and adjust the slack often. No problem for me. We will see how long it will last :)

I like using the original parts on my bikes. But if others want a chain that needs less attention i understand that.

Posted

post-140969-13594630349142_thumb.jpgpost-140969-13594630512447_thumb.jpg

I bought a comic, cut out the pages, and glued the pages.

What do you guys think? I did it to change the look for BMF.

I normally wouldn't say anything, but as you've asked for opinions, I have to ask, 'what were you thinking?'

I was just thinking I had a full set of extra fairing the my CBR just siting at home not doing anything. I figured why not do something with it. I liked how it looked so I tried it on.

I think I'll just use it until I get tired of t then switch back to the painted side later.

For now it's something new and I just sometimes get bored of the same old thing.

Blackpanda, do you still keep these extra fairings for cbr150? If yes, do yoy consider selling them?

I m definitely interested to buy and refurbish my old cbr150.

Posted

Yea I pretty much have all of it except for an extra tank.

PM an offer and I'll take out the fairing and take pictures of it.

Right side now because I'm using the left one.

Both rear sides

Both right and left front crow but no extra from wind screen.

I also have the plastics top and middle. But I don't have the plastic tail.

Posted

With Black Panda and Briggsy, it seems I'm not the only one then who's having to change the chain and sprockets around 12,000kms. If the 250s last 40Kms seems like the 150s got a bum deal in this respect.

Which brings me back to my first point of why spend lots of money on lube when you have to change the the whole thing after just a few months?

because if a chain snaps in traffic it could cost you your life .......

not to mention it could saw through your leg like a chainsaw...(expensive )

or smash the engine case and gearbox to bits (expensive )

bottle of oil (cheap )

I didn't say not oil it. If the chain life is only about 15,000kms then surely the oil they use at the honda dealers is sufficient? (as long as it is applied regularly)
Posted

With Black Panda and Briggsy, it seems I'm not the only one then who's having to change the chain and sprockets around 12,000kms. If the 250s last 40Kms seems like the 150s got a bum deal in this respect.

Which brings me back to my first point of why spend lots of money on lube when you have to change the the whole thing after just a few months?

because if a chain snaps in traffic it could cost you your life .......

not to mention it could saw through your leg like a chainsaw...(expensive )

or smash the engine case and gearbox to bits (expensive )

bottle of oil (cheap )

I didn't say not oil it. If the chain life is only about 15,000kms then surely the oil they use at the honda dealers is sufficient? (as long as it is applied regularly)

honda service interval is every 6000km if i recall

chain should be checked and oiled every 400-500km in dry weather

(more often in rainy weather or after a visit to the carwash etc )

waiting until every honda service is neglecting it

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