Honda Cbr150

[thaicbr]

Also most Thai boy racers are only interested in straight line drag racing, they have no idea about going round corners and effective braking.

[phobic]

Hey ppl,

I have encountered a problem with my CBR in the last week or actually two.

1. The bike have started to vibrate ALOT at ~7.5k rpm and up.. i cant drive it without getting the needle feeling in my hands right now. I recently had the piston, crank and valves changed ( dunno if it has to do with that ). Like i said, it vibrates in the handlebars and making a aweful vibrating sound from the front when i sit on the motorbike at the rpm's i mentioned.

2. When i engine brake and let the clutch go out slowly it makes this sound like the chain aint biting the teeth on the sprockets ( it cant be that though, have new sprockets installed 1 week ago ), and i can feel a shaking at my left rearset.. and the bike isnt engine braking at this point. When i let the clutch go out all the way it disepears and its engine braking again.

I have been to a few Honda shops, and a local mech ( suppose to be a good one according to the locals ).. they all are clueless and say the bike is old and thats why it vibrates, the clutch/gear problem they all start to play with the clutch wire ( not helping ). The thing is, the bike didnt vibrate at this rate before i had the engine parts replaced ( genuine honda parts ). The honda shop said it was the tank that vibrates and making the noise and that i needed a new rubber thingy that hold the tank to the frame.. got me a new one, didnt help for a second.. then they said .. mai roo.

*edit* I bought alot of new parts for the engine since its an old cbr ( 2549 ), so i replaced alot of things inside.. like i mention piston set, crank, valve sleeve, sprockets, chain, brakes, throttle wire etc. etc. I spent about 16.000 bht on new stuff to improve my bike, but all its done really is making it worse

So im hoping someone here could help me out with this.

Thanks

Andreas

Edited July 14, 2009 by phobic

[dave_boo]

Sounds like your clutch might be going out.

[phobic]

Sounds like your clutch might be going out.

Could that cause the vibration too?

[T_Dog]

I had an old bike that did that.. just before the camchain gave out. Have you checked or serviced your cam chain tensioning bits or maybe installed them incorrectly?

[dave_boo]

Sounds like your clutch might be going out.

Could that cause the vibration too?

Yes.

Have you noticed what could be called 'clutch slippage'? I.e., under acceleration does it not get up and go like it used to, especially in lower gears?

[phobic]

I had an old bike that did that.. just before the camchain gave out. Have you checked or serviced your cam chain tensioning bits or maybe installed them incorrectly?

Nope, not serviced that. I have had a pain getting the people in the honda shops to actually do some work.. they all seem to be clueless or just blame it on something else or just lazy.

I guess this would cause the problems i mentioned?

But I will look into that, thanks.

[phobic]

Sounds like your clutch might be going out.

Could that cause the vibration too?

Yes.

Have you noticed what could be called 'clutch slippage'? I.e., under acceleration does it not get up and go like it used to, especially in lower gears?

Yeah, its like it looses power for a millisecond or so.. then regains it. and the tachometer is bouncing at those moments..

**edit** have to add, i replaced the clutch housing too ( dunno is its called that, the round metal thing that hold the clutch plates )

Edited July 14, 2009 by phobic

[T_Dog]

I had an old bike that did that.. just before the camchain gave out. Have you checked or serviced your cam chain tensioning bits or maybe installed them incorrectly?

Nope, not serviced that. I have had a pain getting the people in the honda shops to actually do some work.. they all seem to be clueless or just blame it on something else or just lazy.

I guess this would cause the problems i mentioned?

But I will look into that, thanks.

If your tensioning shoe is worn or cracked, it could allow your cam chain to slap around, causing all kinds of strange vibrations until it fails in some way. You can pull off the spring tensioner fairly easily to get a little bit of a look, and you can see if that part is working correctly. Getting a look at the shoes in more difficult I think. Might not be the cause of your vibration but it is worth a look. Let us know what you find.....

[dave_boo]

Sounds like your clutch might be going out.

Could that cause the vibration too?

Yes.

Have you noticed what could be called 'clutch slippage'? I.e., under acceleration does it not get up and go like it used to, especially in lower gears?

Yeah, its like it looses power for a millisecond or so.. then regains it. and the tachometer is bouncing at those moments..

Might have found a culprit, but check out T-dog's recommendation also.

[phobic]

What would you recommend me buy for this? What parts are needed for fixing this with the clutch ( i dont know if you saw my edit but i replaced the clutch housing ) If you know the names in thai that would be awesome

Yes i will look into both matters hopefully this will ix my bikes issues, thanks for the help as always guys!

[dave_boo]

Clutch plates, possibly the metal plates in between, and perhaps the springs. In fact you could just have a broken/missing spring in there! The parts are going to be cheap as anything else in LOS, and labour shouldn't be a concern since there's just the few bolts on the housing to take off and then the clutch spring bolts....shouldn't be out of comission more than a couple of hours at max. If you have the tools, you can even do it yourself. Just take a couple of pictures to make sure that when you put it back together the plates are in the same order and tighten everything down to specs.

[thaicbr]

Sounds more like what T-dog sez. Why dont you take it back to the Engine rebuilder cos thats what it sounds like. it could also be the main bearings are shot.

[phobic]

Sounds more like what T-dog sez. Why dont you take it back to the Engine rebuilder cos thats what it sounds like. it could also be the main bearings are shot.

Checking both issues that was mentioned, I have been to the mech but like i said, either they dont know or just to lazy to open the engine and look.. so i came here to get possible wrongs so i can tell the mech exactly what i want him to do. Will look into the head bearings also, thanks.

[taichiplanet]

I think the hub width would need remain the same as standard otherwise it wouldnt fit in the swing arm, so then the chain alignment wouldnt change......only the actual rim width needs to be wider.

I was in the Honda dealership today.....I knew the answer I would get...but asked if it was possible to get wider rims......They thought I was from mars I think hehe....well maybe I am.

But when I asked about changing to better tyres, again they thought I was stupid......"but the tyres you have are new, why u want change?" (which they are as its a new bike) I didnt bother to try explain why.

Michelin Pilot Sporty only go up to 100/80/17 from what I can find out...but the International brochure goes up to 130/80/17 anyone have any experience about buying the 130 tyre here in Thailand?

The problem you're going to have is that even if the hubs are the same width, an increase in rim size, and resulting wider tyres being used, could cause the sidewall of the tyre to rub against your chain.

Seems to be room for a wider tyre and rim. If you find the 130/80 Pilot Sport get a measurement of the tyre width. On page 34 of this forum mickba put up a Dunlop tyre link that showed that a 110/80 is the biggest you can put on a standard rear CBR150 rim (2.15’”), while the biggest on the front is 100/80 (1.85”) I’d also like to see if it was possible to get bigger rims to put a 130/80 on the back and maybe a 110/80 on the front. Anyone experimented with wider rims yet? http://www.dunloptyres.com.hk/e/tyres-bike-tt900gp.html

[dave_boo]

Seems to be room for a wider tyre and rim. If you find the 130/80 Pilot Sport get a measurement of the tyre width. On page 34 of this forum mickba put up a Dunlop tyre link that showed that a 110/80 is the biggest you can put on a standard rear CBR150 rim (2.15'"), while the biggest on the front is 100/80 (1.85") I'd also like to see if it was possible to get bigger rims to put a 130/80 on the back and maybe a 110/80 on the front. Anyone experimented with wider rims yet? http://www.dunloptyres.com.hk/e/tyres-bike-tt900gp.html

If I was home, I'd get out a tape measure and stick the hook on the centre of the hub and measure out to the chain itself. Take off 5mm or so for any squatting or deflection of the tyre and double it. Whatever that results in is most likely the absolutely maximum width tyre you can shoe in there without modification of engine mounting.

I was actually talking to mbox about this today, has anyone checked out www.daiichialloy.com? I wonder if it would be possible to get them to go wider, assuming they have a flow jet that cuts blanks, or if they order them from China...I suppose if we got a big enough group they'd have incentive (I like style #52).

[dave_boo]

And back at phobic;

If I'm right about the clutch, than there's 4 clutch springs. Each has a bolt passing through and if any of those bolts sheared, you'd hear a nasty racket in the clutch housing, especially when first started. If just the spring(s) broke, there wouldn't be a noise that a lay person would likely recognise, but there would be clutch chatter when engaged. These noises will be to some extent attunated due to the oil bath the clutch is in.

There's only a handful of clutch plates in the basket; they should be dirt cheap. Faddy carrys replacement clutch friction plates/clutch springs.

จานหรือแผ่นอัดคลัทช์, แผ่นความฝืดของคลัทช์ is clutch friction plate

จานวงแหวนอัดแผ่นคลัทช์ is clutch pressure plate

สปริงดึงกลับของแป้นเหยียบคลัทช์ is clutch pedal return spring (same-same as the main clutch springs?)

แบริ่งหลัก is main bearing

แบริ่งหรือลูกปืนเพลาลูกเบี้ยว หรือฐานรองรับการเสียดสีระหว่างเพลากับการหมุนของลูกเบี้ยวเครื่องยนต์ is camshaft bearings.

เครื่องปรับโซ่หมุนเฟืองแบบอัตโนมัติ ของเครื่องยนต์ชนิดที่ใช้โซ่ประสานเฟืองต่อเฟือง is automatic chain tensioner

[phobic]

And back at phobic;

If I'm right about the clutch, than there's 4 clutch springs. Each has a bolt passing through and if any of those bolts sheared, you'd hear a nasty racket in the clutch housing, especially when first started. If just the spring(s) broke, there wouldn't be a noise that a lay person would likely recognise, but there would be clutch chatter when engaged. These noises will be to some extent attunated due to the oil bath the clutch is in.

There's only a handful of clutch plates in the basket; they should be dirt cheap. Faddy carrys replacement clutch friction plates/clutch springs.

จานหรือแผ่นอัดคลัทช์, แผ่นความฝืดของคลัทช์ is clutch friction plate

จานวงแหวนอัดแผ่นคลัทช์ is clutch pressure plate

สปริงดึงกลับของแป้นเหยียบคลัทช์ is clutch pedal return spring (same-same as the main clutch springs?)

แบริ่งหลัก is main bearing

แบริ่งหรือลูกปืนเพลาลูกเบี้ยว หรือฐานรองรับการเสียดสีระหว่างเพลากับการหมุนของลูกเบี้ยวเครื่องยนต์ is camshaft bearings.

เครื่องปรับโซ่หมุนเฟืองแบบอัตโนมัติ ของเครื่องยนต์ชนิดที่ใช้โซ่ประสานเฟืองต่อเฟือง is automatic chain tensioner

A small update, i went to the honda shop were i bought my cz-i because they are supposed to have mech's that are trained in bkk. And they would not touch the bike, just a outright NO.. and said its suppose to be like this... right. So i will have to go a bit further to Trang and visit a bigger honda shop for this i guess. Good thing though is i got my hands on a service parts manual so now i have the pictures and names in thai for all parts.

Thanks for the update Dave_boo, I will keep you guys updated.

[roadsaints]

hello all, my first post here. currently riding a cbr150 and i'm getting really tired of looking at the original rims. does anybody here know of a shop that sells nice "racing" rims in bangkok at affordable prices? a website for me to have a look will be great too! thanks... cheers

[dave_boo]

hello all, my first post here. currently riding a cbr150 and i'm getting really tired of looking at the original rims. does anybody here know of a shop that sells nice "racing" rims in bangkok at affordable prices? a website for me to have a look will be great too! thanks... cheers

Look up at post 1156 (3 posts before yours). I mention one website; but I can't tell you the prices. I'm also concerned about width; they mention 1.4" which is ridiculously small unless you're a douche bag who's only interested in straight-line drag racing and don't care about the (not)infrequent blowouts that are bound to happen. For instance, Dunlop recommends at least a 1.6" wide rim for a tyre that's only 80/90. You can imagine how much the tyre would 'bloom' over the edge of the rim on a wheel narrower than that.

However, I've contacted the company and inquired about getting wider rims; will let you know the result.

[roadsaints]

hello all, my first post here. currently riding a cbr150 and i'm getting really tired of looking at the original rims. does anybody here know of a shop that sells nice "racing" rims in bangkok at affordable prices? a website for me to have a look will be great too! thanks... cheers

Look up at post 1156 (3 posts before yours). I mention one website; but I can't tell you the prices. I'm also concerned about width; they mention 1.4" which is ridiculously small unless you're a douche bag who's only interested in straight-line drag racing and don't care about the (not)infrequent blowouts that are bound to happen. For instance, Dunlop recommends at least a 1.6" wide rim for a tyre that's only 80/90. You can imagine how much the tyre would 'bloom' over the edge of the rim on a wheel narrower than that.

However, I've contacted the company and inquired about getting wider rims; will let you know the result.

thanks so much for the reply. yeah i did check that webby out and some of the rims look pretty appealing. was checking out the motor shops around my area and they only sold rims that were made for the thai scooters on a variety of colours. but like you mentioned above, i aint gonna become one of them thai racer boys. my safety is more important. and the lady insist that i should use them on my cbr as it'll look better! one consolation though, the rims are dirt cheap! hope to hear from you soon... cheers

[taichiplanet]

Seems to be room for a wider tyre and rim. If you find the 130/80 Pilot Sport get a measurement of the tyre width. On page 34 of this forum mickba put up a Dunlop tyre link that showed that a 110/80 is the biggest you can put on a standard rear CBR150 rim (2.15'"), while the biggest on the front is 100/80 (1.85") I'd also like to see if it was possible to get bigger rims to put a 130/80 on the back and maybe a 110/80 on the front. Anyone experimented with wider rims yet? http://www.dunloptyres.com.hk/e/tyres-bike-tt900gp.html

If I was home, I'd get out a tape measure and stick the hook on the centre of the hub and measure out to the chain itself. Take off 5mm or so for any squatting or deflection of the tyre and double it. Whatever that results in is most likely the absolutely maximum width tyre you can shoe in there without modification of engine mounting.

I was actually talking to mbox about this today, has anyone checked out www.daiichialloy.com? I wonder if it would be possible to get them to go wider, assuming they have a flow jet that cuts blanks, or if they order them from China...I suppose if we got a big enough group they'd have incentive (I like style #52).

The 52 is a bit wild for me! I was thinking that if it was possible to put the stock rear rim on the front and then getting a 3”rim (maybe rim 61 or 65) for the rear. I’m not able to get to my bike for a week or so, and if it is possible I will get my mechanic to see if the rear rim will fit on the front with the 100/80 tyre. I assume there will be a problem with the hub.

If we have a 2.15 front and 3.00 rear then we could aim for a 110/80-17 front and 130/70-17 rear or is that a bit optimistic? The Kwaka Ninja 250 runs 110/70-17 & 130/70-17 as stock.

On the daiichialloy website the racing55 seems the only wide rim, 2.75”, which at least they can do something around the size needed if we special order.

If we do get new rims made is it worthwhile to go down to 16” to get the rolling diameter back near original? Though there seems to be fewer tyres to choose from. At least with the 17” and higher rolling diameter the speedo should be closer to being accurate!!

I have sent an email to Michelin Thailand asking for dimensions of the 130 tyres, so I hope to get a reply sometime never! I’ve also sent emails to other countries.

Akunar are bringing out a new clutch plate so that heavier springs aren't needed, i've ordered one for when i do the engine rebuild.

[dave_boo]

The 52 is a bit wild for me! I was thinking that if it was possible to put the stock rear rim on the front and then getting a 3"rim (maybe rim 61 or 65) for the rear. I'm not able to get to my bike for a week or so, and if it is possible I will get my mechanic to see if the rear rim will fit on the front with the 100/80 tyre. I assume there will be a problem with the hub.

You wouldn't want the stock rear rim on the front. The added mass from the hub would numb your steering amongst other things. If the rims were spoked it'd be easy to swap.

If we have a 2.15 front and 3.00 rear then we could aim for a 110/80-17 front and 130/70-17 rear or is that a bit optimistic? The Kwaka Ninja 250 runs 110/70-17 & 130/70-17 as stock.

I don't think I'd want a 110 on the front; would defeat the purpose of having a CBR. A Ninja is not as nimble, but the power is up enough to overlook that fact. If we get too big we're going to end up just as ponderous and way behind on power due to losses from unsprung weight.

On the daiichialloy website the racing55 seems the only wide rim, 2.75", which at least they can do something around the size needed if we special order.

I'm hoping so; but I've had problems getting Thai companies to respond to emails from me before. With all the English on their website you'd think it wouldn't be an issue...we'll see.

If we do get new rims made is it worthwhile to go down to 16" to get the rolling diameter back near original? Though there seems to be fewer tyres to choose from. At least with the 17" and higher rolling diameter the speedo should be closer to being accurate!!

NO! 16" only introduces a whole 'nother range of problems. Don't believe me? Look at some old model Ninja 250 boards and the issues they had with trying to get proper tyres for their 16" rims. The stock front tyre is 80/90 which means that it's 72mm. Going 110/70 is 77mm. That's an increase of only 7%.

I have sent an email to Michelin Thailand asking for dimensions of the 130 tyres, so I hope to get a reply sometime never! I've also sent emails to other countries.

Pirelli also has a website in Thailand. Apparently there's someone by the name of Charley who works there and I can provide a mobile number for.

Akunar are bringing out a new clutch plate so that heavier springs aren't needed, i've ordered one for when i do the engine rebuild.

[thaicbr]

the 100 on the front is great with the stock rim. you do not need to change the front.

[taichiplanet]

The 52 is a bit wild for me! I was thinking that if it was possible to put the stock rear rim on the front and then getting a 3"rim (maybe rim 61 or 65) for the rear. I'm not able to get to my bike for a week or so, and if it is possible I will get my mechanic to see if the rear rim will fit on the front with the 100/80 tyre. I assume there will be a problem with the hub.

You wouldn't want the stock rear rim on the front. The added mass from the hub would numb your steering amongst other things. If the rims were spoked it'd be easy to swap.

If we have a 2.15 front and 3.00 rear then we could aim for a 110/80-17 front and 130/70-17 rear or is that a bit optimistic? The Kwaka Ninja 250 runs 110/70-17 & 130/70-17 as stock.

I don't think I'd want a 110 on the front; would defeat the purpose of having a CBR. A Ninja is not as nimble, but the power is up enough to overlook that fact. If we get too big we're going to end up just as ponderous and way behind on power due to losses from unsprung weight.

On the daiichialloy website the racing55 seems the only wide rim, 2.75", which at least they can do something around the size needed if we special order.

I'm hoping so; but I've had problems getting Thai companies to respond to emails from me before. With all the English on their website you'd think it wouldn't be an issue...we'll see.

If we do get new rims made is it worthwhile to go down to 16" to get the rolling diameter back near original? Though there seems to be fewer tyres to choose from. At least with the 17" and higher rolling diameter the speedo should be closer to being accurate!!

NO! 16" only introduces a whole 'nother range of problems. Don't believe me? Look at some old model Ninja 250 boards and the issues they had with trying to get proper tyres for their 16" rims. The stock front tyre is 80/90 which means that it's 72mm. Going 110/70 is 77mm. That's an increase of only 7%.

I have sent an email to Michelin Thailand asking for dimensions of the 130 tyres, so I hope to get a reply sometime never! I've also sent emails to other countries.

Pirelli also has a website in Thailand. Apparently there's someone by the name of Charley who works there and I can provide a mobile number for.

Akunar are bringing out a new clutch plate so that heavier springs aren't needed, i've ordered one for when i do the engine rebuild.

Okay, sounds good - 100/80 on the front. What do you reckon about the rear tyre; 130/80 or 130/70? Just checked out Pirelli site, the Sport Demon range have the same as the Michellin Pilot sporty; anyone tried these tyres? Just checked the dealer list, High Side Tours at Pattaya is listed, i think the Ninja 250 guys were buying tyres from them. I still have to get of my arrsse and do a day on the track with them. I'll email and see if i can get some specs from them.

A general (and possible silly) question; why are some tyres specifically designated for front or rear? On a light bike like the 150 could you put a 'front' tyre on the rear?

I've photoshopped the 52 rim that dave_boo likes onto my bike, it looks good! Hopefully with daiichialloy we can either just get a rear or go for a complete new set!

Edited July 16, 2009 by taichiplanet

[thaicbr]

Taichi. I have read about many people putting fronts on the back (you reverse the tyre it seems) not sure myself. from experience the 130 Michelin pilot sporty works on the back but it is to large and rounds up a lot, also leaks air (did not try with bead sealer). I think a 120 would be ok but not tried it.

Personally i think the 110 on the back would be great (not available yet). But if i had another Cbr150 i think i would just run the Michelin sportys 100 front and back. The michelins are just SOOOOO much better than the stock Irc (teflon) tyres.

Edited July 16, 2009 by thaicbr

[dave_boo]

Okay, sounds good - 100/80 on the front. What do you reckon about the rear tyre; 130/80 or 130/70? Just checked out Pirelli site, the Sport Demon range have the same as the Michellin Pilot sporty; anyone tried these tyres? Just checked the dealer list, High Side Tours at Pattaya is listed, i think the Ninja 250 guys were buying tyres from them. I still have to get of my arrsse and do a day on the track with them. I'll email and see if i can get some specs from them.

For my own bike, I'd rather get the 130/70. Reasoning being that they are less prone to flex. This is of course assuming that the rims are wide enough for a 130 section tyre; if the rims were on the smaller side of recommended fitting, going with a 'taller' tyre would allow more flex which should help prevent slow links.

A general (and possible silly) question; why are some tyres specifically designated for front or rear? On a light bike like the 150 could you put a 'front' tyre on the rear?

Tyre squirm. Notice how on the rear designated tyres they usually have more shoulder blocks? Great for traction, but if you're trying to guide something those can wiggle and not have optimum feedback. The rear tyre is for putting that power down, so if the tyre does flex a bit, it can actually help since more contact surface is brought into play. Nobody wants their front tyre to feel like it's wandering around, so that's why they either have fewer horizontal cuts or fewer blocks. Take a look at Pirelli's rain tyres to get an idea of what I'm talking about.

I've photoshopped the 52 rim that dave_boo likes onto my bike, it looks good! Hopefully with daiichialloy we can either just get a rear or go for a complete new set!

[taichiplanet]

Okay, sounds good - 100/80 on the front. What do you reckon about the rear tyre; 130/80 or 130/70? Just checked out Pirelli site, the Sport Demon range have the same as the Michellin Pilot sporty; anyone tried these tyres? Just checked the dealer list, High Side Tours at Pattaya is listed, i think the Ninja 250 guys were buying tyres from them. I still have to get of my arrsse and do a day on the track with them. I'll email and see if i can get some specs from them.

For my own bike, I'd rather get the 130/70. Reasoning being that they are less prone to flex. This is of course assuming that the rims are wide enough for a 130 section tyre; if the rims were on the smaller side of recommended fitting, going with a 'taller' tyre would allow more flex which should help prevent slow links.

A general (and possible silly) question; why are some tyres specifically designated for front or rear? On a light bike like the 150 could you put a 'front' tyre on the rear?

Tyre squirm. Notice how on the rear designated tyres they usually have more shoulder blocks? Great for traction, but if you're trying to guide something those can wiggle and not have optimum feedback. The rear tyre is for putting that power down, so if the tyre does flex a bit, it can actually help since more contact surface is brought into play. Nobody wants their front tyre to feel like it's wandering around, so that's why they either have fewer horizontal cuts or fewer blocks. Take a look at Pirelli's rain tyres to get an idea of what I'm talking about.

]

ahhh, makes a lot of sense, thanks for clearing that up! Graham from High Side will get back to me in a day or so with the Pirelli info. I did get a response from Michellin UK but no dimensions, so i've asked again. Their reply 'The largest section crossply tyre that can be fitted to a 2.15" rim is a 120/80 or a 120/90. Neither the 130/80 or 130/70 are suitable for this rim. The smallest rim for the 130/80-17 is 2.50". The smallest rim for the 130/70-17 is 2.75".' I am not sure why they are saying crossply as the Pilot Sporty is radial, unless they mean cross section which still doesn't make sense!

I've also emailed daiichialloy but only to ask about the 55 rim; if it would fit the CBR and how much. I don't like the style of that rim much but at least it will get us a base to work off as the front is 1.85 and rear 2.75. Hopefully they will also answer your email about making something for us.

I agree with you thaicbr about Michs being much much better than the plastic IRC. Would the Pirellis be about the same or better? I've asked Graham at High Side whether the 120 front can go on the rear. Personally i think putting a 120 or 130 on a rim where it's about maxxed out is not worth compromising the safety. I like the style of the CBR150, just that the wheels are too skinny, so going slightly wider will make it look great, as well as handling better! Besides, once i bore out to 180cc then i'll need more grip for the massive loads of extra power i will get!!

[taichiplanet]

dave_boo (or anyone else) please get out your measuring stick! Mich Uk says 'The maximum section width in service of the 130/80-17 fitted to its measuring rim of 3.0" is 142mm. The 130/70-17 fitted to its measuring rim of 3.5" is 142mm.' 142mm is about 5 3/4" if you have an old stick.

Looking at the Dunlop chart the 130/70-17 will fit on a 3.00" rim, i can't imagine it'll push the sidewall out too far.

I'd measure up but don't have my bike at the moment.

[dave_boo]

dave_boo (or anyone else) please get out your measuring stick! Mich Uk says 'The maximum section width in service of the 130/80-17 fitted to its measuring rim of 3.0" is 142mm. The 130/70-17 fitted to its measuring rim of 3.5" is 142mm.' 142mm is about 5 3/4" if you have an old stick.

Looking at the Dunlop chart the 130/70-17 will fit on a 3.00" rim, i can't imagine it'll push the sidewall out too far.

I'd measure up but don't have my bike at the moment.

Unfortunately I'm 7 hours away (working in the Gulf) from my bike right now...