Recommended Roofing & Insulation Contractor Bangkok?

[Bluedipper]

Hello,

 

The search function doesn't work well on this forum so apologies if this has been asked before, but can anyone recommend a reliable and experienced Roofing & Insulation contractor in Bangkok?

 

Our house is almost 40 years old and we have combination of old thick tiles (see photo) and areas of exposed flat concrete roof above sitting room and bathrooms. The roof has sprung 4 major leaks due to old tiles, cracked concrete, bad joins, etc. and the water is pouring into the house past electric old wiring and switches which is very alarming. Looks like there is no insulation under the roof tiles - just the roof tiles on a frame above the concrete ceiling (which seems to be covered in very thin layer of old, worn metallic foil in some parts). The house is an absolute OVEN and usually hotter inside than out, so would be good to get the leaks fixed and get advice/costs on what insulation they can do at the same time! 

 

Thank you ???? 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[sometimewoodworker]

47 minutes ago, Bluedipper said:

The search function doesn't work well on this forum 

A google site search is what you need to use. The built in search hasn’t worked remotely well for a long time.

 

if you don’t know the syntax for the site search then DAGS it.

Edited September 7, 2020 by sometimewoodworker

[Bluedipper]

9 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

A google site search is what you need to use. The built in search hasn’t worked remotely well for a long time.

 

if you don’t know the syntax for the site search then DAGS it.

Thank you @sometimewoodworker No sure what a syntax or DAGS is ???? But I have googled a lot and read many posts about insulation to the point I'm more confused than ever, lol. Am hoping that someone has used a trustworthy, knowledgeable company they can recommend that can come and take a look and give us some recommendations based on the old house and budgets! 

 

The leaks are the main priority, but if we can make any modest changes to help with the insulation that would be a bonus. 

Edited September 7, 2020 by Bluedipper

[sometimewoodworker]

3 minutes ago, Bluedipper said:

Thank you @sometimewoodworker No sure what a syntax or DAGS is ???? 

Syntax, is how to format a search correctly. In this case to only search the forums, but doing it via the google site.

DAGS= Do A Google Search

[Yellowtail]

You might try an SCG Home Center. 

[shaemus]

On 9/7/2020 at 2:29 PM, Bluedipper said:

Thank you @sometimewoodworker No sure what a syntax or DAGS is ???? But I have googled a lot and read many posts about insulation to the point I'm more confused than ever, lol. Am hoping that someone has used a trustworthy, knowledgeable company they can recommend that can come and take a look and give us some recommendations based on the old house and budgets! 

 

The leaks are the main priority, but if we can make any modest changes to help with the insulation that would be a bonus. 

Do you want metal or tile? And what size in M2 is your roof? 

 

SHAEMUS 

[lopburi3]

You are asking about sealing tile leaks or replacement of roof?  Is there access holes in ceiling for workers to enter?  Often found in bathroom.  At 40 years may be wood frame for tiles and need to check for termites?  

If not full replacement a local work crew most likely and they best found by contacts having worked for others in the area.  

[Bluedipper]

23 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

You might try an SCG Home Center. 

Thank you. My cousin apparently arranged someone from SCG to come today, but it was just one old man (and his wife) who's one of their contractors, so now I'm not so sure. ????

 

 

[Yellowtail]

34 minutes ago, Bluedipper said:

Thank you. My cousin apparently arranged someone from SCG to come today, but it was just one old man (and his wife) who's one of their contractors, so now I'm not so sure. ????

 

 

 

The nice think about SCG is they sell a full range of products for a complete roof. The also often have nice showrooms that display and explain entire roofing systems, including vents and insulation. Take some photos of the house/roof and basic dimensions with you.

[Bluedipper]

1 hour ago, lopburi3 said:

You are asking about sealing tile leaks or replacement of roof?  Is there access holes in ceiling for workers to enter?  Often found in bathroom.  At 40 years may be wood frame for tiles and need to check for termites?  

If not full replacement a local work crew most likely and they best found by contacts having worked for others in the area.  

 

Thanks @shaemus and @lopburi3 Main priority is to fix the leaks (not replace the roof) and get advice on insulation options at the same time if possible. It is indeed a wood frame, with tiles and nothing else between that and the ceiling. But we also have exposed areas of flat concrete roof which look cracked too. Have had 2 contractors come out and say different things, the latter of which didn't know anything about insulation. Just wondered if anyone could recommend a good outfit we could trust with being thorough and knowledgeable on both points? Maybe too much to ask ???? 

 

[Bluedipper]

1 hour ago, Yellowtail said:

 

The nice think about SCG is they sell a full range of products for a complete roof. The also often have nice showrooms that display and explain entire roofing systems, including vents and insulation. Take some photos of the house/roof and basic dimensions with you.

I will do that, thank you for the suggestion. 

[GlennSN20U5]

IMO, you could attach new insulated roof without removing existing roof but you need contractor/civil engineer to check on the existing roof structure strength or from wear & tear. That could solve the heat(insulation) & existing leaking part. 

Many type of insulation available such as EPS, PU & Rockwool. 

Basically, the contractor will put new insulated roof on top of existing tile roof. You can look into it. Best of luck.

[Yellowtail]

The spray-on foam roofs are getting popular in the California dessert cities, there are sprayed on over the existing as well. 

[GlennSN20U5]

1 hour ago, Yellowtail said:

The spray-on foam roofs are getting popular in the California dessert cities, there are sprayed on over the existing as well. 

If your house has ceiling access, can consider to spray PU foam under the existing roof. At least can maintain the aesthetic of existing tile roof. 

[Yellowtail]

16 hours ago, GlennSN20U5 said:

If your house has ceiling access, can consider to spray PU foam under the existing roof. At least can maintain the aesthetic of existing tile roof. 

Spraying foam under the and existing leaking roof would not end well. 

 

I was talking about spraying on a new roof.

[sometimewoodworker]

5 hours ago, Yellowtail said:

Spraying foam under the and existing leaking roof would not end well. 

Why not? If the structure is sound and not wood.

Edited September 11, 2020 by sometimewoodworker

[Yellowtail]

4 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Why not? If the structure is sound and not wood.

How do you know the structure is sound and not wood?

 

Spraying foam on the underside of a leaking roof will only either move the leak or store the water.

 

My post was poorly worded, the foam I was referring to is sprayed on as a new roof, not sprayed on a new roof.

[sometimewoodworker]

12 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

22 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Why not? If the structure is sound and not wood.

How do you know the structure is sound and not wood?

 

Spraying foam on the underside of a leaking roof will only either move the leak or store the water.

I don’t know which is why I put that in.

 

The PU spraying information claims that it waterproofs leaks in a roof so moving the leak to the gutter.

[Yellowtail]

1 hour ago, sometimewoodworker said:

I don’t know which is why I put that in.

 

The PU spraying information claims that it waterproofs leaks in a roof so moving the leak to the gutter.

 

It seems unlikely to me that except under the strictest of circumstances that it would make it al the way into the gutter, but I guess one can always hope. I'm sure water draining down between the foam and the roof would have no negative effect on the adhesive and that it drains really fast as well so as not to overload the the sound, non-wood structure or pull the foam down.  It's also not likely that any water will get trapped on or in the not wood structure and cause corrosion. 

 

 

[sometimewoodworker]

22 minutes ago, Yellowtail said:

I'm sure water draining down between the foam and the roof

Why would water penetrate tiles that it has waterproofed?
 

As the foam adheres to the material it’s sprayed onto there is no route between the foam and roof. 

[Yellowtail]

18 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

Why would water penetrate tiles that it has waterproofed?
 

As the foam adheres to the material it’s sprayed onto there is no route between the foam and roof. 

You're right, of course. 

[bankruatsteve]

Didn't the OP say he had wood support structure for the roof? And I think he said looking to fix leaks not replace roof. IMO spraying foam is not much good for anything. I think the OP needs to continue calling in contractors for quotes and select one that makes the most sense coupled with the opinions offered. 

[Yellowtail]

15 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Didn't the OP say he had wood support structure for the roof? And I think he said looking to fix leaks not replace roof. IMO spraying foam is not much good for anything. I think the OP needs to continue calling in contractors for quotes and select one that makes the most sense coupled with the opinions offered. 

No, it doesn't matter if the roof leaks, just spray the underside with foam and it will seal it up perfect and it will all drain into the gutters.

[Bluedipper]

4 hours ago, bankruatsteve said:

Didn't the OP say he had wood support structure for the roof? And I think he said looking to fix leaks not replace roof. IMO spraying foam is not much good for anything. I think the OP needs to continue calling in contractors for quotes and select one that makes the most sense coupled with the opinions offered. 

 

It is an old wood structure, can’t confirm how sound. Turns out we don’t even have gulleys (last guy taped over the joints with a dodgy silver tape). So that will probably be on the to-do list. 
 

Will wait to get the first two quotations and see what they recommend (one from an outfit and other from a solo old roofer and his wife who turns out knew nothing about insulation ????). Will also visit SCG this weekend for their input! 

[bankruatsteve]

Regarding insulation... in your case, it will probably be most effective to lay reflective bats on the ceiling (floor of the attic space).  The purpose is to reflect radiant heat (up to about 95%).  Some will say the thicker the insulation the better but insulation is for convected heat and if most of the heat is being reflected 30cm or more of insulation is superfluous, IMO.  The reflective bats must have air gap though which is normally done with 3-5cm of insulation.  

[sometimewoodworker]

50 minutes ago, bankruatsteve said:

Regarding insulation... in your case, it will probably be most effective to lay reflective bats on the ceiling (floor of the attic space).  The purpose is to reflect radiant heat (up to about 95%).  Some will say the thicker the insulation the better but insulation is for convected heat and if most of the heat is being reflected 30cm or more of insulation is superfluous, IMO.  The reflective bats must have air gap though which is normally done with 3-5cm of insulation.  

There are a few problems in the longer term and a piece of faulty logic there.

 

Yes clean reflective bats are reasonable, but unless the roof is sealed (this one isn’t) they will get dusty so drastically reducing the reflecting ability.

 

To reflect heat the material  needs no air gap under for it to function.

 

As it seems that the structure is wood the PU foam is unlikely to be a cost effective solution (it would probably still work but be more difficult as you probably don’t want to encapsulate the wood)

 

If as part of the repair you have easy access to the underside of the roof then stapling a double sided radiant barrier film will give the highest heat reduction for the lowest cost, the price is about 3,000 for 70 metres 

or you can get one with PU foam MPE 1.2X20M ALUMAX PE FOAM INSULATION At about 4,550

Edited September 12, 2020 by sometimewoodworker

[bankruatsteve]

5 minutes ago, sometimewoodworker said:

To reflect heat the material  needs no air gap under for it to function.

Yes it does.  Especially important for reflective barrier under the roof tiles.

[Yellowtail]

1 hour ago, sometimewoodworker said:

There are a few problems in the longer term and a piece of faulty logic there.

 

Yes clean reflective bats are reasonable, but unless the roof is sealed (this one isn’t) they will get dusty so drastically reducing the reflecting ability.

 

To reflect heat the material  needs no air gap under for it to function.

 

As it seems that the structure is wood the PU foam is unlikely to be a cost effective solution (it would probably still work but be more difficult as you probably don’t want to encapsulate the wood)

 

If as part of the repair you have easy access to the underside of the roof then stapling a double sided radiant barrier film will give the highest heat reduction for the lowest cost, the price is about 3,000 for 70 metres 

or you can get one with PU foam MPE 1.2X20M ALUMAX PE FOAM INSULATION At about 4,550

Why will the spray on PU foam not work with wood?

[lopburi3]

1 minute ago, Yellowtail said:

Why will the spray on PU foam not work with wood?

For one it would not fully enclose the wood so in effect keep water from leaks in contact with the wood making it rot out even faster?  We are talking wood beams with tile attached to it (not a good or flat seal).  And tile like that shown is very heavy so any rotting could be a major issue.  And if termites have had a bite even easier for water to rot it.  

[Yellowtail]

Just now, lopburi3 said:

For one it would not fully enclose the wood so in effect keep water from leaks in contact with the wood making it rot out even faster?  We are talking wood beams with tile attached to it (not a good or flat seal).  And tile like that shown is very heavy so any rotting could be a major issue.  And if termites have had a bite even easier for water to rot it.  

 

But would it not also hasten the corrosion corrosion of steel as well? 

 

Are steel beams with tile attached to them a good, flat seal?

 

Remember, all the water will drain down into the gutters perfectly so this would not be an issue.

 

It's like paying for insulation and getting a new roof free!