Extending DC wire to led strip

[maxpower]

16 hours ago, Polarizing said:

No idea, it's a koogeek dimmer, couldn't find which edge it is.

 

I would not normally get involved with attempts to marry cheap HungLo LED drivers and regular dimmers but in this case I offer a clue as to why your dimmer and driver might not be 100% happy together.

A good dimmable driver with input decode chip and variable constant current output :-

 

 

 

Possibly whats inside your basic 'LED DIMMING ABT-6-XXX' driver :-

 

 

 

There is only one sure way to solve these problems and that's to visit a LED shop or market who can demonstrate LED's, drivers and dimmers living in harmony.

 

 

[Polarizing]

Thanks for all the replies, does anyone know why my philips 6w single color led strip has 4 conductors at the cutting point? I thought that was only for RGB, so how do I connect 2 wires from my dim transformer to the ledstrip? ofcourse I can connect using the original connector and just connect the existing wires, but I wonder how I can do this using my own connector.

[Crossy]

3 minutes ago, Polarizing said:

Thanks for all the replies, does anyone know why my philips 6w single color led strip has 4 conductors at the cutting point? I thought that was only for RGB, so how do I connect 2 wires from my dim transformer to the ledstrip? ofcourse I can connect using the original connector and just connect the existing wires, but I wonder how I can do this using my own connector.

 

Could be for compatability with RGB strips.

 

Post a photo of the existing connector and the end of the strip and we can help.

[Polarizing]

1 hour ago, Crossy said:

 

Could be for compatability with RGB strips.

 

Post a photo of the existing connector and the end of the strip and we can help.

currently On my way to a small homepro, anything i should look out for? Haha

[Polarizing]

bump @Crossy @bankruatsteve @maxpower 
Can someone take a look at my last post please? ????

[Crossy]

Looks like a standard "5050" LED connector which has 4 pins (for RGB strips), for your single colour strip just use two pins. I'm sure it's not beyond you to sort which two pins ???? 

 

You can get the connectors from Lazada.

[Polarizing]

3 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Looks like a standard "5050" LED connector which has 4 pins (for RGB strips), for your single colour strip just use two pins. I'm sure it's not beyond you to sort which two pins ???? 

 

You can get the connectors from Lazada.

Does this mean that the two pins on the sides does not carry any current at all? 

[Crossy]

1 minute ago, Polarizing said:

Does this mean that the two pins on the sides does not carry any current at all? 

 

Possibly, but without the strip in front of me I can't tell.

 

Check how your existing connector is wired and just copy it.

[Crossy]

Make sure you get the correct type of 5050, they should look like this.

 

[Polarizing]

35 minutes ago, Crossy said:

Make sure you get the correct type of 5050, they should look like this.

Thanks, I just hooked up my meter on them and 2 of them are used as + and 2 of them are used as -. I understand how to make connections now between strips, but how do I do that with the first connection?

 

I don't know how to open the original connector to take a peek without completely destroying it, but I guess they just split the 2 stranded wire and insert it to 4 pins?

[Crossy]

13 hours ago, Polarizing said:

I don't know how to open the original connector to take a peek without completely destroying it, but I guess they just split the 2 stranded wire and insert it to 4 pins?

 

I would suggest your guess is spot on ????

 

[Polarizing]

8 hours ago, Crossy said:

 

I would suggest your guess is spot on ????

 

My inner destroyer just couldn't help but confirm it. seems like solder to the pins. I already bought 1 sqmm solid core, not stranded. The connectors in the previous post requires the wire to be unstripped, Stripped wire might make the connection less stable? What shall I do?
a. Learn to solder
b. Just Wago it with a 2x wago 3 conductor
c. I am stupid, and I shoulda just walk around the house to see if there were enough first connectors and connect it.
d. Replace led strip with a 2 conductor and its almost plug and play.
e. just do whatever, as long as it gets the job done, dont spend too much time on this as no one will see it.

[bankruatsteve]

e

[johng]

I vote for  a: learn to solder  its not too difficult , you will get a good secure connection that lasts  and have a new skill  useful in many future D.I.Y projects.

[stouricks]

On 9/11/2020 at 2:15 PM, sometimewoodworker said:

Extending on either side by that short a length makes no difference. If your strip is in a fixed location then probably the thinnest easily available, 1.5mm sq, single core will be OK, unless your LED strip is tens/hundreds of metres long. 
 

There is no such thing as AC wire

See attached photo of ÁNT DC Wire I bought last week

[Polarizing]

On 9/14/2020 at 5:08 AM, Crossy said:

A TE-15 should be able to run two of your 7W down lights in series.

The TE-15's finally arrived and I did a test run and they worked. I hooked up 2 leds on series on the transformer. Then I noticed the dip switches and I played around with it a bit. seems like the dip switch with three up (black means up) is the brightest on all levels and when switched 3 down is the dimmest on all levels, which suits my needs more.

However, I wonder WHY it worked since the old (cheap) transformer that came with the leds were rated 18-23V, 240-280 mA, per led.

Does this mean I can actually hook up 3 led lights in series and put it in the dipswitches in the down up down position?

 

 

@Crossyif you forgot what this is all about, its on the second page of this thread. 

[Crossy]

6 minutes ago, Polarizing said:

However, I wonder WHY it worked since the old (cheap) transformer that came with the leds were rated 18-23V, 240-280 mA, per led.

Does this mean I can actually hook up 3 led lights in series and put it in the dipswitches in the down up down position?

 

Your LED are current operated (not voltage). Your 7W LEDs are expecting a current of around 250mA which would develop about 20V across them. Setting your transformer to down, down, up (200mA) would probably be best, down, up, down (350mA) may over-drive the LEDs. In either case the transformer will max out at around 45V.

 

Putting 3 LEDs in series at any of the available currents would likely be about 60V which is outside what the transformer says it can do, it may light the LEDs but behaviour under dimming could be unpredictable.

 

[Polarizing]

7 minutes ago, Crossy said:

 

Your LED are current operated (not voltage). Your 7W LEDs are expecting a current of around 250mA which would develop about 20V across them. Setting your transformer to down, down, up (200mA) would probably be best, down, up, down (350mA) may over-drive the LEDs. In either case the transformer will max out at around 45V.

 

Putting 3 LEDs in series at any of the available currents would likely be about 60V which is outside what the transformer says it can do, it may light the LEDs but behaviour under dimming could be unpredictable.

 

thanks for your explanation, I thought that the 45v of the transformer would be divided by 3 leds (15v each) and making my Leds max out at around 5W each. Any dangers in trying it out?

[Crossy]

No danger in trying it, it may work but be unpredictable and it's running the transformer outside its ratings.

 

You can't just divide voltage amongst LEDs like you can normal lamps, LEDs are current driven not voltage and my not even start to conduct at less than 20V.

[Polarizing]

On 10/24/2020 at 4:16 PM, Crossy said:

No danger in trying it, it may work but be unpredictable and it's running the transformer outside its ratings.

 

You can't just divide voltage amongst LEDs like you can normal lamps, LEDs are current driven not voltage and my not even start to conduct at less than 20V.

tried it with 3, doesn't work. installed the adaptors the normal way a few days ago and they work flawlessly. Triac is thaaa besttttttt