Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just bought a big breaker box.

The best big boxes which I could find online were all out of stock. So now I ordered a big box which can be uses as a breaker box but was not specifically designed to be one.

 

What my box doesn't have but what it should optimally have is some support for all the cables which go out of that box.

This is an example of metal which is formed in a way to easily fix cables with cable ties.

Does anybody of you know if this cable support has an official name?

And is it possible just to order cable support rails like that?

 

I mark what I want in red in below pictures:

1219125915_UnterverteilermitReihenklemmen-4.png.613097264527f4c54f8f4106e7fe7a9f.png

 

2052717118_UnterverteilermitReihenklemmen-5.png.49c43f787bb543ace6c250cbb0aec388.png

 

Thanks

Posted (edited)

I dont know the name either.  I wan't to say grommit strip? But you can buy the rubbery plastic strips at homepro or thaiwatsadu.  That looks like a hardcore box mate. What are you up to?

Edited by Simple Jack
  • Haha 2
Posted
11 minutes ago, Simple Jack said:

That looks like a hardcore box mate. What are you up to?

Only one condominium. With (possible, planned) 100% home automation.

 

The above pictures are from a video, just examples.

I want a big box for two reasons:

In many small boxes all cables are cramped next to each other. It's difficult to get an overview and even more difficult to add or change anything.

I prefer a big box which is half empty compared to a cramped smaller box.

 

And maybe I will use a couple of current transformers similar to this to monitor which devices (i.e. which AC) uses how much power. They also need space.

thumb_master.jpg

 

  • Like 2
Posted

https://www.monotaro.co.th/p/50611128.html?experiment_1804=1&utm_id=google_pla_th&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIscbC8srp-QIVjwByCh3Nlw6PEAQYAyABEgInr_D_BwE

 

This might be a better option mate. Called slotted duct and available cheaply in Thailand. I'm an Electrician. I dont like zip tying single insulated cables to steel and those lugs look sharp. The duct is super neat and will do the job you need. Available in many sizes

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, Kenny202 said:

https://www.monotaro.co.th/p/50611128.html?experiment_1804=1&utm_id=google_pla_th&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIscbC8srp-QIVjwByCh3Nlw6PEAQYAyABEgInr_D_BwE

 

This might be a better option mate. Called slotted duct and available cheaply in Thailand. I'm an Electrician. I dont like zip tying single insulated cables to steel and those lugs look sharp. The duct is super neat and will do the job you need. Available in many sizes

Thanks, I am aware of these ducts.

And you inspire me to misuse them in the way that I will tie single isolated cables to these plastic parts.

But I don't think that is what you had in mind.

 

To be sure let me describe why I have this cable clap rail in my mind - now I know the name ???? 

The cables come from cable trays and trunks in the condominium into the breaker box. And in the breaker box I connect the cables to terminal blocks (from Phoenix Contact) like in the pictures.

I want to physically fix the cables to the box so that if someone (or gravity) would pull on those cables that the cables can't move much. So there won't be any strains on the connection between the individual wires and the terminal blocks.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, xtrnuno41 said:

Thanks

I shortened the link for you, often you can delete everything after the "?" in the original link.

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005003982971400.html

I don't want to have just one meter like that. I will maybe have 10 of them on everything that uses significant power (including multiple ACs, oven, hobs, water heater, etc.). And, maybe after some ESP32s, I will see the detailed power consumption in Home Assistant. 

Posted

If all you are dealing with is low voltage wiring (<25 vdc) all you may need is a rod secured across the box or a bracket within. Zip tie the cables to that to provide strain relief. If you are working with power cables, then drilled, deburred holes in the box and fitted with electrical strain relief grommets are typical. Just get the right size hole saw and leave about a radius between each hole edge for structural support. 
 

or get a box with prepunched hole positions.

Posted
6 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

Only one condominium. With (possible, planned) 100% home automation.

 

The above pictures are from a video, just examples.

I want a big box for two reasons:

In many small boxes all cables are cramped next to each other. It's difficult to get an overview and even more difficult to add or change anything.

I prefer a big box which is half empty compared to a cramped smaller box.

 

And maybe I will use a couple of current transformers similar to this to monitor which devices (i.e. which AC) uses how much power. They also need space.

thumb_master.jpg

 

Sounds sweet bro! I wish you much success. ????

Posted
19 hours ago, OneMoreFarang said:

Thanks

I shortened the link for you, often you can delete everything after the "?" in the original link.

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005003982971400.html

I don't want to have just one meter like that. I will maybe have 10 of them on everything that uses significant power (including multiple ACs, oven, hobs, water heater, etc.). And, maybe after some ESP32s, I will see the detailed power consumption in Home Assistant. 

I just gave it for an example, didnt know how far you are in investigating, though you showed a pic of a transducer.

Of course if you want more groups to explore, then you need more. So for 10 groups, 10 of them, 40 cm total. But ok just showed and these ones have some additional safety settings , you might could use.

Besides this one uses the wiring in your box, no separate transducer. It is integrated.

And i couldnt tell if they just make all connection on wife or just one at the time.

 

But OK, I understand, you want to use the transducers and leading those to one central processing unit, which will be working then with home assistant?

Of course the input of the processing unit can handle the input signals of the transducers. You already find something like that?

Dont get me wrong , im trying to think with you.????

 

Your wiring coming in the box, you wanted a cable clamp rail.

You can also make the rail just out of a solid piece (rectangle bar) of plastic (PVC or whatever) you fix it to the box on screws with spacers (bushes) or there are even like these spacers

Perfect positioning with threaded spacers and standoffs | Fastener ...

image.png.fe17c6a451d74d357b841118cac39d8f.png

 

When i have the space, patience and long enough wrap, I fit the wrap like this, making more use of the wrap and its tight. Used to do it a lot. But it is just a suggestion.

  • Like 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, xtrnuno41 said:

I just gave it for an example, didnt know how far you are in investigating, though you showed a pic of a transducer.

Of course if you want more groups to explore, then you need more. So for 10 groups, 10 of them, 40 cm total. But ok just showed and these ones have some additional safety settings , you might could use.

Besides this one uses the wiring in your box, no separate transducer. It is integrated.

And i couldnt tell if they just make all connection on wife or just one at the time.

 

But OK, I understand, you want to use the transducers and leading those to one central processing unit, which will be working then with home assistant?

Of course the input of the processing unit can handle the input signals of the transducers. You already find something like that?

Dont get me wrong , im trying to think with you.????

 

Your wiring coming in the box, you wanted a cable clamp rail.

You can also make the rail just out of a solid piece (rectangle bar) of plastic (PVC or whatever) you fix it to the box on screws with spacers (bushes) or there are even like these spacers

Perfect positioning with threaded spacers and standoffs | Fastener ...

image.png.fe17c6a451d74d357b841118cac39d8f.png

 

When i have the space, patience and long enough wrap, I fit the wrap like this, making more use of the wrap and its tight. Used to do it a lot. But it is just a suggestion.

Thanks, I ordered the big box a couple of days ago. I have already the DIN rails and terminal blocks and some sample currency transformers and breakers. Let's look how it all fits into the box.

I played with Arduinos and ESP32 etc. before and I am sure I will be able to put things together with Home Assistant.

 

At the beginning I will just make sure that all works and is secure. Then, probably months in the future, I will work on measuring the current. 

In the moment it is important for me to prepare as much as possible for home automation. I will work on the details later. Computer programming is part of my job, and I am confident I will get it running at some time.

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
On 8/29/2022 at 11:00 PM, OneMoreFarang said:

Then, probably months in the future, I will work on measuring the current. 

I imagine you are aware that you must short the output of your current transformers if they are not connected to any circuit or metering device,......

Posted
31 minutes ago, bluejets said:

I imagine you are aware that you must short the output of your current transformers if they are not connected to any circuit or metering device,......

No, I am not aware of that.

 

I think in a way it's like a transformer which is plugged into mains. If current flows on the secondary winding, then current flows on the primary side. And if not, then not.

But I am open minded, why do you think I should short the output?

Posted
1 hour ago, OneMoreFarang said:

No, I am not aware of that.

 

I think in a way it's like a transformer which is plugged into mains. If current flows on the secondary winding, then current flows on the primary side. And if not, then not.

But I am open minded, why do you think I should short the output?

 

Because any current in the "primary" (the wire through the hole) will try to create a current in the secondary (the winding) of 1/1000 (or whatever the ratio is) of the primary current. With an open (infinite resistance) secondary that would mean "infinite" voltage!

 

Hence either short the winding or leave the shipping short installed.

 

Whilst big CTs are perfectly capable of killing if left open the baby ones we see on our domestic energy monitors rarely generate much over a few tens of volts.

 

AC Current Transformer: solid core, 150A primary (PN# CTF-5SFT-0150) |  AutomationDirect

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...