cliveshep Posted November 23, 2022 Share Posted November 23, 2022 Has anybody in Thailand owning an older Carry managed to access the OBD1 codes? I understand you put a fuse in the left-hand empty spot in the fuse panel and count the flashes on the instrument cluster - so 5 flashes followed by a 1 second pause and 4 more, then a 3 second pause before the next series would indicate code 54. Downloaded a list from a web-site but have not as yet tried it. Shame the car never had OBD2 as I have a OBD2 scanner. I have had a check engine light on for the last 3 years - the original owner told me it came on when he added the LPG system and it made sense. Got rid of the LPG when the tank etc needed expensive replacement - the code remains. Would have cleared it by removing the negative battery connection for 3 minutes as according to Google that clears all stored codes but now got some nasty running problems so need to read the codes. The car misfires badly once it warms up, one cylinder drops out completely it seems when accelerating, coming back in if I reduce throttle, thereafter top end revs don't hesitate and the truck goes as fast as it ever did - not saying a lot I know as fast is never a word to apply to the geared-down Carry which is pretty nippy up to max engine-howling 90km/hr. So it has a nisfire and mega-flat spot. My thoughts - it has over 325k km on the clock so the likelihood of all sorts of failures are on the cards. On the Suzuki Forum the suggestion was fuel pump - low fuel pressure which I cannot check anyway, My own thoughts ran to failure of ignition coils. I've given it an oil and filter change, new iridium spark plugs and a replacement Chinese airfilter that is an exact mirror of the original so didn't fit (warning - don't buy after-market air filters from Lazada.) I wound up heating the plastic filter housing box to just under melting point and forcing in the new filter to make the air-filter box shape conform - I'm a tight-wad! It works anyway! Anyone done the codes on one of these lovely little trucks or got any ideas on the problems with mine? It has been a good little truck, all I've done is change the stupid low-profile wheels and tyres - instant ride improvement - fitted a new radiator cap (thank you for that diagnosis lads as it no longer over-heats), new brake pads, new battery, and plugs and filters. Not bad for a well-worked cheap truck I'd say. That's in 3 years! My UK- owned BMW and Jaguar couldn't go 3 months without issues! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seedy Posted November 23, 2022 Share Posted November 23, 2022 Carb or FI ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seedy Posted November 23, 2022 Share Posted November 23, 2022 2 hours ago, cliveshep said: Got rid of the LPG when the tank etc needed expensive replacement Our new tank was only 5K - a deal what with the fuel savings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
In the jungle Posted November 23, 2022 Share Posted November 23, 2022 I had a 2013 Carry which I think is the same as yours (a GC416). The 2013 certainly did have an OBD2 port which was roughly in front of the gear lever under the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliveshep Posted November 23, 2022 Author Share Posted November 23, 2022 Mine is fuel Injected Seedy, and it is OBD1 for the 2007 model for some reason In the jungle. Suzuki were very slow to install OBD2 into the Carry models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seedy Posted November 24, 2022 Share Posted November 24, 2022 9 hours ago, cliveshep said: Mine is fuel Injected Seedy, and it is OBD1 for the 2007 model for some reason In the jungle. Suzuki were very slow to install OBD2 into the Carry models. 555 - our NV the same ! Check out online for OBD1 code readers. Cheap. Say the first listing from Amazon - $32 - 1100 THB - plus whatever shipping . Well worth it - then no more guesswork. Classic sign of an ignition coil going out is what you describe - fails when hot. Had to wrap a towel around mine in the 57 Chevy and soak with water to get home once. As far as the low fuel pressure most decent shops have a pressure gauge and adapters to connect into the line and can check it. If auto shops you check come up empty, go to any HD truck shop - the will have all the pressure tools. At that mileage it may be a good investment - if you plan on keeping it - to replace coils, wires, distributor cap and rotor (if it has one) Smart move re: Iridium plugs. They're great ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliveshep Posted December 11, 2022 Author Share Posted December 11, 2022 (edited) Update on mis-fire etc engine problems - changed the coils and leads on a "sh%t or bust" basis and problem cured - runs like a (noisy rattling) top. Seriously, sounds like ball-bearings rattling in a can. Really must sort that valve lash issue as the tappets are off in a in a world on their own! Still, thanks for that advice Seedy. BUT the OBD codes are a real problem. This truck has a 1.6 fuel injected 16 valve engine and runs under an OBD1 system. It actually does have a 16-way OBD socket under the dash in front of the gear lever position - thanks for that heads up "In the Jungle" but only 3 pins are connected, ground pin 5, pin 7 and always live Pin 16. I have yet to check if pin 5 is actually grounded or if pin 16 actually has 12 volts on it but my 16 pin OBD2 scan tool does not recognise anything plugged in to the socket of course. Anyone got a working hack to read the codes on one of these trucks please? Edited December 11, 2022 by cliveshep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seedy Posted December 11, 2022 Share Posted December 11, 2022 https://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/learn/read-obd1-codes/ Will need a VPN from USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliveshep Posted December 11, 2022 Author Share Posted December 11, 2022 Thanks Seedy but sadly it is of little help. I do have the TOAD scan tool but of course it is OBD2. The article you linked talks about using a scanner or a paper clip to check the flashes, but does not say which in places to put the paper clip to start things off. My car has the same connector as the 16 pin OBD 2, but only 3 pins are used, ground on 4 and 5, 7 to the computer I assume and 16 permanently live. It is mosquito alley and dark here now and only an idiot risks going outside so I won't be checking anything now until Monday. Picture below is what I was sent, if you know what pins to link I'd be happy to hear, I'm not going to link random two out of the4 3 incase I melt something vital. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliveshep Posted December 11, 2022 Author Share Posted December 11, 2022 Possible correction to my post as I have not as yet verified the pin connections (it's dark and mosquitoes are out in force and we avoid those biting buggers because of the real risk of dengue fever or malaria so stay indoors at night with screens firmly closed!) I am reliably informed that Suzuki are in a world of their own with older models and use their own SDL system of OBD connections. I have sourced a UK company who claim to sell a (out of stock until Dec. 15) 16 pin to USB tool that uses the SDL system of Suzuki. Company is called Rhino Power, (www.rhinopower.org) and I have written to them via email. They say the SDL connection is as this image: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliveshep Posted December 12, 2022 Author Share Posted December 12, 2022 (edited) Right, got out this morning and in spite of chronic arthritis managed to unhook the socket behind the dash. I cannot get it back so I'll have to zip-tie it somewhere. Anyway, good ground on pins 4 & 5, but nothing on pin 16 with ignition or engine on or off. Configuration is in fact as someone else suggested as OBD1 and not Suzuki's SDL arrangement. So - now need to find (a) where the hell pin 16 goes to and why it has no voltage or can I jumper it from another 12v under the dash somewhere? And (b) I need a suitable OBD1 interface and software unless the reason my TOAD doesn't see it is because of that missing 12volt on pin 16? Anyone know? Picture and modified image attached show what I actually have. Edited December 12, 2022 by cliveshep stuck key error Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seedy Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 This might help - 1999 - 2013 - PDF available for download 7.95 GBP https://www.downloadworkshopmanuals.com/index.php/8-workshop-manuals/756-suzuki-carry-workshop-repair-manual-download Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliveshep Posted December 12, 2022 Author Share Posted December 12, 2022 Thanks for that but the English ones are the mini-trucks 1.3 litre, not my 1-tonne dropside Carry in Thailand. I did get one from the Rhino site but again it bears little or no resemblance to my own. My head hurts lol. Got a feeling I'll have to take it into a garage in the New Year and get them to identify the stored codes and if not sorted already just clear them. Need some front bushes replaced anyway - not sure I want to tackle that myself at my age. It's a <deleted> not being able to find a scan-tool to connect to my lap top so I can scan and check what's going on nalthough with no voltage on pin 16 it might not work anyway! I need to hibernate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seedy Posted December 12, 2022 Share Posted December 12, 2022 Wonder if Suzuki dealers still have an OBD1 reader ? Let us know here how you get on. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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