Koh Chang - A Paradise Lost

[Sherlocke]

It's buggered.. First time I went there was in 1989.. No road.. you had to catch a longtail along the coast or walk... Bungalows back then went for 30 - 50 baht a night.. Yes.. No A/C just a hammock, and a latern and a fan till the power went off.. It was a wonderful place... Relaxing on the beach, swimming, walking to waterfalls and picking rambutans and mangoes.. Then all the tw*ts that need their city ammenities arrived along with the Italian restos, tailors and other poop that you generally go to island to escape from...

The main attraction of the place was it's unspoilt beauty.. brings to mind a line from an old Joni Mitchell song.. ''They paved paradise and put up a parking lot'' Sooner or later someone in Thailand will realise they are running out of unspoilt beaches.. Then the tourist will head elsewhere.... Plenty of other places already full of condos, resorts, tailors etc why come to Thailand ?

Wishful thinking and dreaming of things that won't happen!

This didn't happen to the Costa Blanca, Costa del Sol in Spain, nor did this happen to Paris, Milan, Rome, Florence, Capri or Rimini, Barcelona, Mallorca, Tenerife, Santorini, Kos, name it, crowds are still flocking to Hikkaduwa, Bentota and Goa... things do change this is the only unchangeable fact - we have to come to grips with it, if we want it or not!

It's just as is... this planet looked a whole lot different only 200 Years ago, think about Europe or southern & northern America, Africa - how many unspoiled places have been flushed down the drain there and anywhere else, say Australia?

We can't fence off the planet and make it a nature reserve, we all and all following generations will have to bear the consequences of our doing, if we want it or not!

How much people, especially those in high places, who could drawn a line for changes, aren't interested at all, defending their sponsors...the latest climate conference has shown all too clear, there is still loads of money to be made....it's all about money, money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

money, money,

Get real!

Australia has now some pretty advanced conservation measures in place after the ravages of development in the 60s 70s and 80s - and has a supply of deserted beaches that has to be almost unrivaled anywhere in the world.

Any development in Oz is carefully scrutinized IN PUBLIC and there are frequent alterations and issues are raised by those concerned - this process barely exists in Thailand - the developer - hand in hand with the govt - gets a free hand - this process will inevitably "eat itself"

that is reality.

[chriswatson]

My great grand dad remembers when there were wild elephants on Koh Chang. He used to swim with them from Trat. Now all the elephants are tame and turned into tourist attractions. My grand dad remembers when there was no electricity. Now they use it in the 7/11's. My Dad remembers when there were no roads. Now the place is full of cars. In these western eyes KC has been going downhill for the last 100 years.

Health care, education and wealth has improved for the locals, but so what. Bring back malaria.

Firstly Eastern Trat province still has malarial problems - whether itis on the island is up for debate.

Are you suggesting that the link between pollution by traffic and the eradication of disease is inevitable or just the result of bad management?

In general western eyes have only been on KC for the last 3 decades - and it was only really under Thaksin that the green light was given for the massive development that has taken place.

I'm not sure there were EVER wild elephants on Koh Chang - I'm told it's named after it's shape - apparently it's meant to look like an elephant from some viewpoint(??).

THere are of course still elephants o the island used for tourist treks - I presume in the past they were used for logging as well. This is now illegal - an improvement?

Well if eastern Trat still has a malarial problem, or KC for that matter, no one's told the doctors in the UK because when I asked if I needed any precautionary medicine for the area, their "medical map" showed them malaria had been eradicated.

You're right there were never wild elephants on KC (as far as anyone knows). Nor did my great grand dad swim with any. I was trying to be funny.

I'm suggesting of course KC as a natural "paradise", has presumably gone "downhill" in terms of what the beach-bum-backpackers want. Have you ever heard of "paradise" improving (is this even possible)? However, it has not run off down the hill in the ways the rest of Thailand have, in fact, it's had the brakes squeezed. Given that Thailand's second largest island has a protection order where still about 85% of the island is national park/jungle is something to be applauded, and just because it now has infrastructure, and you no longer need to pay a local fisherman to get from A to B doesn't mean the place is screwed.

As Samulan points out, to think an island of its size, sovereign to a country whose main industry is tourism, was going to be stuck in some idyllic, subjective "paradise" of yours is just plain silly - and compared to the rest of coastal Thailand, KC is one of the least blighted.

Edited December 21, 2009 by chriswatson

[Sherlocke]

"to think an island of its size, sovereign to a country whose main industry is tourism, was going to be stuck in some idyllic, subjective "paradise" of yours is just plain silly" - this couldn't be wider of the mark - in fact you have the wrong end of the stick on most of it.

THere is no "protection order" - KC is PART of a grossly mis-managed National Park - a few years back the "chief" was sacked or "moved on" due to his resistance to the continual encroachment of his beloved Park.

THere have been demos and arguments with the govt over claiming land from the park and local residents want the park "de-reistered" - the park is actually mostly steep mountain where you aren't allowed to build in thailand anyway - this means that the remaining flat land - especially with a good beach has been developed WITHOUT ANY SERIOUS ENFORCEMENT OF REGULATION - that is my main point -

I have NEVER suggested that tourism be stopped of the clock turned back - what is needed is regulation and infrastructure - if you read about the island - this thread and IAMkohchang.com you'll get some idea how KC IS special.

It was developed much later than the other islands and although Thailand's second largest island it simply does not have the USEABLE LAND that others have hence the appalling crowding in places like Whitesands - an opportunity has ben lost here - it was only in THIS MILLENNIUM that KC was truly opened up and instead of being a modern organized eco-firendly example of how things can be done it has gone the way of every other island in this country.

It is a national disgrace.

Finally - THailand's main industry is NOT tourism - tourism accounts for about 7% of the economy.

[sharecropper]

I have been to KC three times in 2009 - in February, August and at Christmas, and I really was astonished at the rate of building between White Sands Baach and Lonely Beach. Resorts, shophouses and hotels particularly.

Is there no enforcement of the National Park building restrictions, or is it OK to develop alongside the road?

[powderpuff]

Was gonna say "Since when did a protection order stop squatters & illegal logging?"

[Changian]

I have been to KC three times in 2009 - in February, August and at Christmas, and I really was astonished at the rate of building between White Sands Baach and Lonely Beach. Resorts, shophouses and hotels particularly.

Is there no enforcement of the National Park building restrictions, or is it OK to develop alongside the road?

There are no National Park building restrictions in that area is it isn't in the National Park.

If the entire island was NP you'd have to pay an entry fee to get on it. You dont. The land around the fringes of the island is pretty much all outside the park boundary. Developers have to apply for planning permission but for shophouses, crap shop units it is easy to get.

[sharecropper]

I have been to KC three times in 2009 - in February, August and at Christmas, and I really was astonished at the rate of building between White Sands Baach and Lonely Beach. Resorts, shophouses and hotels particularly.

Is there no enforcement of the National Park building restrictions, or is it OK to develop alongside the road?

There are no National Park building restrictions in that area is it isn't in the National Park.

If the entire island was NP you'd have to pay an entry fee to get on it. You dont. The land around the fringes of the island is pretty much all outside the park boundary. Developers have to apply for planning permission but for shophouses, crap shop units it is easy to get.

Thanks for clarifying.

[NALAK]

same happened to Samui, Tsunami damaged this coast as much as the other in its own way. given up in Samui after 10 years moved to Pattaya, if your going to live in a sh*t hole you may as well live for half the price.

[sharecropper]

same happened to Samui, Tsunami damaged this coast as much as the other in its own way. given up in Samui after 10 years moved to Pattaya, if your going to live in a sh*t hole you may as well live for half the price.

Elegantly put!

[Changian]

if your going to live in a sh*t hole you may as well live for half the price.

I think we have a winner in the TAT's new 'Promote Pattaya' slogan competition

[anotheruser]

same happened to Samui, Tsunami damaged this coast as much as the other in its own way. given up in Samui after 10 years moved to Pattaya, if your going to live in a sh*t hole you may as well live for half the price.

That is so true it is funny.

[Deeral]

When you see Australia's efforts at eco-tourism and compare them to the miserable attempts in Thailand it makes you want to cry.

I do have a great idea for something on Koh Chang but Ithink it is unlikely that anyone would ever take it up. If you know of a billionaire with money to burn, send him over to me!

We have to recognise, though, that Thailand has made considerable changes and improvements over a very short period of time in order to develop a westernised eco-conscience and accommodate such high number of tourists. I think we should give it a little more time to get where we western/ised societies are now. I believe that the education and literacy factors are certainly the key to the successful growth of a country, provided that it is achieved in a constructive and sustainable way of course.

I'm sorry but I have to disagree - what evidence do you have for this?

I think that Thailand is making virtually no effort at all in this field - sadly almost a lot of work on wildlife and conservation in Thailand is still instigated by foreigners - quite often it is stopped or balked by officialdom and the developers get their way.leaving them time is the one thing that Thailand hasn't got - as the developers etc won't wait.

In a discussion with some Scuba divers from Koh Chang 2 days ago- I was told - and they were all in agreement - that now all the coral around Koh Chang is damaged or destroyed - those wishing to see pristine or just good examples of coral have to go further afield in the archipelago.

Edited July 31, 2010 by Deeral

[Deeral]

Another interesting article on Koh Chang in the press ( HERE ) on this thread.... Koh Chang under threat

[Hairy]

<br />

same happened to Samui, Tsunami damaged this coast as much as the other in its own way. given up in Samui after 10 years moved to Pattaya, if your going to live in a sh*t hole you may as well live for half the price.

<br /><br />Elegantly put!<br />

Guess I'll set up shop there, then. Better go-go's anyway.

[Deeral]

Samui is not quite the same as KC -

it was developed earlier -and it could be argued before the issues of environment and sustainable tourism were well publicised.furthermore Samui has a much larger area of FLAT land. It is illegal to develop land of over 19degrees gradient.the kinder nature of the topography on Samui has allowed for a little more infrastructure to be created to cope with the massive influx (it was pretty much uninhabited until the 1960s.THey also seem to have enough water.

KC has no excuses - Irt was really not developed until this millennium when it was just handed to developers who were give practically a free rein. Anyone who complained - e.g. National Parks officials - were either sacked or posted elsewhere.Thaksin suggested it would be the "New Phuket" which is a joke as it is a topographical impossibility.The sad thing is now that KC may become deserted and derelict over the next decade as the far more developer-friendly Koh Kud is "raped" by the developers.

the National Park has no legal right of access for visitors and so has no protection against those who do so illegally.It is now run as a personal "fiefdom" by a small squabbling elite who are increasingly seeing their piece of the pie eroded by poor and limited seasons, bad reptutation of hotels and increasing degradation of the scuba sites. - basically they have shat in their own nest.

PS - beware of anyone who makes claims direct or otherwise to being "green" on KC - that is likely as not completely misleading.

[mrtoad]

It is now run as a personal "fiefdom" by a small squabbling elite who are increasingly seeing their piece of the pie eroded by poor and limited seasons, bad reptutation of hotels and increasing degradation of the scuba sites. - basically they have shat in their own nest.

PS - beware of anyone who makes claims direct or otherwise to being "green" on KC - that is likely as not completely misleading.

I'd pretty much agree with that. The "drain squabble" in Whitesands is a prime example. KC IMO is a place that has missed out on the potential that it had, by looking very short term, sadly not uncommon in Land of Somchai.

[Deeral]

It is now run as a personal "fiefdom" by a small squabbling elite who are increasingly seeing their piece of the pie eroded by poor and limited seasons, bad reptutation of hotels and increasing degradation of the scuba sites. - basically they have shat in their own nest.

PS - beware of anyone who makes claims direct or otherwise to being "green" on KC - that is likely as not completely misleading.

I'd pretty much agree with that. The "drain squabble" in Whitesands is a prime example. KC IMO is a place that has missed out on the potential that it had, by looking very short term, sadly not uncommon in Land of Somchai.

You pretty much sum it all up in one sentence!

[doggie888888]

My great grand dad remembers when there were wild elephants on Koh Chang. He used to swim with them from Trat. Now all the elephants are tame and turned into tourist attractions. My grand dad remembers when there was no electricity. Now they use it in the 7/11's. My Dad remembers when there were no roads. Now the place is full of cars. In these western eyes KC has been going downhill for the last 100 years.

Health care, education and wealth has improved for the locals, but so what. Bring back malaria.

Guess what, the locals can have healthcare, education and wealth. They can even have a credible malaria eradcation program plus a few good hospitals. They can have all that without the unbridled (and dare I say, corrupt) development that destroys the very environment that is the envy of others. It's called sustainable development/tourism. Why would you think development and the environment are mutually exclusive?

[Deeral]

THere were never any wild elephants on KC

[Deeral]

My great grand dad remembers when there were wild elephants on Koh Chang. He used to swim with them from Trat. Now all the elephants are tame and turned into tourist attractions. My grand dad remembers when there was no electricity. Now they use it in the 7/11's. My Dad remembers when there were no roads. Now the place is full of cars. In these western eyes KC has been going downhill for the last 100 years.

Health care, education and wealth has improved for the locals, but so what. Bring back malaria.

Guess what, the locals can have healthcare, education and wealth. They can even have a credible malaria eradcation program plus a few good hospitals. They can have all that without the unbridled (and dare I say, corrupt) development that destroys the very environment that is the envy of others. It's called sustainable development/tourism. Why would you think development and the environment are mutually exclusive?

Actually lets adjust your post a bit to make it more like what is actually happening.....

The locals don't have access to the expensive healthcare offered to visitors, they simply can't afford it.

THe education is just as bad as it always was, but now those Thais (and some Cambodians) who have migrated to the island are offered a more stretched and underfunded version.

Virtually none of the wealth that flowed from tourism of increased land value has gone to the locals who either bought or pushed out at a very early stage of the islands development.

Most so called locals are manland folk who either bought early or happened to be landowners that previously was rented out to farmers who are now dispossessed and without land to farm.

KC used to be a MALARIA centre and was famous for being infested with disease. Obviously with the advent of tourism the disease has had to be tackled how well is not known or indicated by local authorities - HOWEVER - there have been several outbreaks of the disease in Trat province and the province itself is still one of the most effected provinces in Thailand. If there was an outbreak on KC itself DO YOU THINK YOU"D BE TOLD???

KC is plagued by unregulated and corrupt development - anyone who opposes it is either moved away, bribed or threatened. There is NO ATTEMPT at sustainable tourism - The National Park and hills that cover most of the island are continually encroached upon by unscrupulous developers, the infrastructure is completely inadequate. THere is actually appears to be no NO CLEAR information as to how rubbish and sewage is disposed of...the increased run-off from the island is decimating the sea around it. The reefs around the island are no longer suitable for scuba tourism they are being destroyed by the effluent from the huge increase in the island's population. Divers now own powerful speed boats to make trips further and further afield to find undamaged coral etc.

Development and environment are NOT mutually exclusive and part of a regulated developmental program would be to protect the very resources that make the island attractive and albeit too late the local economy and the local population. with the current development an implosion is quite likely as the business drifts to Koh Kud - which in turn will be destroyed - but that may take longer as there is a greater area for potential development on that island.

now that's more like it!

[Deeral]

Mudslide on Koh Chang kills one, injures another

Trat - A mudslide on tourist-destination Koh Chang killed a Cambodian worker and injured another Monday morning.

Officials said the mudslide hit Rock Sand Beach Resort at the White Sand Beach.

The mudslide hit four bungalows of the resort. A bungalow collapsed on a Cambodian worker, severely injuring him while another worker was buried by the mud.

-- The Nation 2010-10-11

From the OP.....

" The building over the last 3 years has completely filled the space between hills and shore. The developers have now started to dig away at the hills behind and are erecting buildings wherever they can - between the mudslides. One wonders how long it will be before a cliff collapses and takes a building with it. Look above the buildings to see evidence of land-slip...."

Edited October 11, 2010 by Deeral

[sarahsbloke]

Scuba diving always destroys the dive sites, that's the way it works.

You want pristine coral ....... don't allow scuba diving or dive boats in the area.

Edited October 11, 2010 by sarahsbloke

[Deeral]

Scuba diving always destroys the dive sites, that's the way it works.

You want pristine coral ....... don't allow scuba diving or dive boats in the area.

Whereas irresponsible scuba diving can result in some damage and even theft of corals, the main cause of damage is "run-off"...........

THe population of KC is tens even hundreds of times larger than it was just 20 years.

These new visitors and inhabitants all shower, shit and do all the usual things people do. THis results in a massive increase in "dirty" water entering the sea around the island - it enters at different temperatures and with various undesirable contents, chemicals, pollutants and matter in suspension. This all either is absorbed by or settles on the coral, which is either poisoned or suffocated.

so don't just blame the scuba divers, next time you take a "pooh" or a shower think about where that water is going to end up.

Even if it goes through a filtration plant it can still effect things like water temperature or salinity all of which will damage or kill coral.

just think where all that mud eroded after building work goes too!

Edited October 11, 2010 by Deeral

[mrtoad]

My great grand dad remembers when there were wild elephants on Koh Chang. He used to swim with them from Trat. Now all the elephants are tame and turned into tourist attractions. My grand dad remembers when there was no electricity. Now they use it in the 7/11's. My Dad remembers when there were no roads. Now the place is full of cars. In these western eyes KC has been going downhill for the last 100 years.

Health care, education and wealth has improved for the locals, but so what. Bring back malaria.

Guess what, the locals can have healthcare, education and wealth. They can even have a credible malaria eradcation program plus a few good hospitals. They can have all that without the unbridled (and dare I say, corrupt) development that destroys the very environment that is the envy of others. It's called sustainable development/tourism. Why would you think development and the environment are mutually exclusive?

Yeah right, have you been there recently? The Gov hospital is a joke, there are no schools on the island of any note, and the rst of it is a personal fiefdom ofa bunch of crooks.

As one of the locals told me " Trat is a rich province, there is lots of money, but bit none of us see it".

[Deeral]

having visited the island recently I have to say that it would appear that little or no money has been spent on infrastructure over the last couple of years, just a few more people trying to squeeze in another business here and there.

It also looks like the rate of development has slowed. I'm guessing this is due to reduced or static numbers of visitors as the island is getting a pretty poor reputation as a "paradise" island these days.

it seems to me that many of the visitors to KC now go on to other parts of the archipelago in search of whatever it was they didn't find on KC.

[RickThai]

My wife and I spent a week there last November. I was very disappointed in the island. Although we met a few, friendly Thais, many of the people, (especially the baht bus drivers) were very greedy and unpleasant to deal with.

One day I actually walked from my hotel (Emerald Cove) to the waterfall (can't remember the name), rather than pay an outrageous price to a baht bus driver. (The walk was quite fun actually, I knew enough to get a large and sturdy stick to deter the dogs, and although I got quite a good sweat, since the falls were about 6 km from my hotel, it was enjoyable).

The baht bus drivers also seem to have some kind of co-op or union (read mafia) going whereby only certain drivers would go to certain places.

I would never want to live there (that was one of the purposes of the trip). Everything is too congested along the single road that runs up and down the coast and the competition is too fierce, IMO.

Also the place seemed overrun with Russian tourists, who seem to be the most inconsiderate group of people on the planet (much worse then the French!). Perhaps being a global traveler is new to them.

RickThai

Edited July 15, 2011 by RickThai

[Eff1n2ret]

Went there the weekend before last, and quite enjoyed it for a first visit.. It was pretty quiet, and our beach-front resort at White Sand beach had very few guests. Out of season it's quite a relaxing place for a few days'stay, but I can understand the reservations of those who have posted about the excessive development and commercialisation. This is fully in evidence all the way down the west coast, which contrasted starkly with the other side of the island where there is far less development and seemed much more tranquil under shelter from the stormy westerly winds.

The breakers on White Sand Beach were impressive, and fun to jump about in until I noticed an unpleasant slick turning the white foam to brown. It could only be one thing, and if we go back again I certainly won't be swimming in the sea.

[Deeral]

Went there the weekend before last, and quite enjoyed it for a first visit.. It was pretty quiet, and our beach-front resort at White Sand beach had very few guests. Out of season it's quite a relaxing place for a few days'stay, but I can understand the reservations of those who have posted about the excessive development and commercialisation. This is fully in evidence all the way down the west coast, which contrasted starkly with the other side of the island where there is far less development and seemed much more tranquil under shelter from the stormy westerly winds.

The breakers on White Sand Beach were impressive, and fun to jump about in until I noticed an unpleasant slick turning the white foam to brown. It could only be one thing, and if we go back again I certainly won't be swimming in the sea.

Do you not find it disconcerting that you don't want to swim in the sea off what 15 years ago was a virtually pristine "paradise" island?

The main reason for the "far side" not being developed is that it simply doesn't have the beaches or sufficient flat land for development.

Edited July 31, 2011 by Deeral

[midas]

My wife and I spent a week there last November. I was very disappointed in the island. Although we met a few, friendly Thais, many of the people, (especially the baht bus drivers) were very greedy and unpleasant to deal with.

One day I actually walked from my hotel (Emerald Cove) to the waterfall (can't remember the name), rather than pay an outrageous price to a baht bus driver. (The walk was quite fun actually, I knew enough to get a large and sturdy stick to deter the dogs, and although I got quite a good sweat, since the falls were about 6 km from my hotel, it was enjoyable).

The baht bus drivers also seem to have some kind of co-op or union (read mafia) going whereby only certain drivers would go to certain places.

I would never want to live there (that was one of the purposes of the trip). Everything is too congested along the single road that runs up and down the coast and the competition is too fierce, IMO.

Also the place seemed overrun with Russian tourists, who seem to be the most inconsiderate group of people on the planet (much worse then the French!). Perhaps being a global traveler is new to them.

RickThai

Rick I share your sentiments 100%. Last time I was in Koh Chang was three years ago and I could not believe my eyes as to

how much development has occurred and how they have absolutely ruined what was once a charming island. As far as the Baht bus Mafia they are incredible aren't they?

I was staying in Bang Bao and because of a dearth of taxis running ( because none of the locals seemed to use them )

I decided to walk over the hill down to what used to be the Dusit Princess hotel but is now the Mercure.

When I decided to go back I simply flagged down the white songthaew and hopped on board as the only passenger.

He was going in the direction of Bang Bao anyway but to my utter disgust when we stopped he demanded 80 baht

from me in the most aggressive manner. I told him it was an outrageous amount but he didn't seem to care.

If this is what these people are going to do I think they will drive more and more tourists away from this destination.

I was so insulted by this I decided the only way to get revenge was to boycott using them.

The next day I gladly paid a Cambodian waiter from one of the restaurants where I had eaten the day before

to take me on his motorbike to the pier. If I ever go back to Koh Chang and there is a possibility I never will,

I will go out of my way to avoid using the white mafia taxis

Edited September 17, 2011 by midas

[koknia]

I stayed on Koh Chang for a month in 1992. One of my best Thai beach experiences. There was very little development and I had the best bungalow on the beach. It was 70B/day.

Never been back.