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Posted

I have the same valve on my Kubota. Gary is right, it's a speed control for the 3-point. When it's fully closed the hitch can stay in the upper position even with engine stop.

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Posted

Thanks for that MaiP,

Sounds like we've nailed it.

I think I've been keeping the valve in the fully closed position.

The rear tool will stay raised with the engine off.

Would this also give the fastest speed for the hitch ?

Posted

See it as a throttle valve. When fully open you should have the fastest speed. When fully closed you shouldn't be able to move the hitch with the lever. I bought mine new two weeks ago and it works, but if it doesn't work for you, maybe you have a leak in the valve or other part of the hydraulic system. I'm a newbie farmer so I don't know so much about this and still in the learning process.

Posted
Thank you

As other people commented, your posts are priceless for us amateurs.

When I get my big tractor the questions will follow

Thanks Maizefarmer

Posted
What model Kubota you got MaiP ?

It's just a small 3408. I don't know if it ia any economic benefit as I'm still a useless tractor driver and think it would be cheaper to hire a skilled drver but it gives me a lot of fun.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hello guys. I want to ask you something. My father had a ford 5000 but unfortunatelly he passed away recently. I want to sell this tractor but i do not know where to place an ad . Can you give me a website that is known among the farmers ? Thank You I tryed on smaler sites but no success.

Is there anyone who can help me with this ? In dept Victor.

Posted
Hello guys. I want to ask you something. My father had a ford 5000 but unfortunatelly he passed away recently. I want to sell this tractor but i do not know where to place an ad . Can you give me a website that is known among the farmers ? Thank You I tryed on smaler sites but no success.

Is there anyone who can help me with this ? In dept Victor.

How much do you want for the tractor? What implements do you have to go with it?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Sounds like what i want to do- what attachments did you get?

What model Kubota you got MaiP ?

It's just a small 3408. I don't know if it ia any economic benefit as I'm still a useless tractor driver and think it would be cheaper to hire a skilled drver but it gives me a lot of fun.

Posted
Hello guys. I want to ask you something. My father had a ford 5000 but unfortunatelly he passed away recently. I want to sell this tractor but i do not know where to place an ad . Can you give me a website that is known among the farmers ? Thank You I tryed on smaler sites but no success.

Is there anyone who can help me with this ? In dept Victor.

- Photos showing condition all round

- Tyre condition (how much tread is left on the rubber)

- Approximation of hours on the block (tractors are measured not against how miles or kilo's done but against hours used) - guess if you don't know.

- Condition of hydraulics (what Thai's look for on hydraulics is the ability to set the rear hitch at any height with some weight on it, and its ability to stay there - not slowly sink down or "twitch".

Condition of battery and starter - does it start "on the key" or does it struggle.

Exhaust smoke is a non-issue (all the old Fords smoke and its usualy because they are running rich, not because the rings are shot).

Comments on all the above written in Thai on a couple A4 sheets stuck up at your local hardware store with a mobile number should see it sold within a month or so. Any implement you are willing to include will go a long way towards closing a sale.

Posted
<br />... sorry, didn't see the picture with your first posting - and I am wrong about your pto speed - your model has a 540/560 pto rpm and now that I have seen the tiller pciture, all is fine because it is also a 540/560 rpm tiller<br /><br /><b>Depth control wheels </b>- put your depth control wheels back on: the horizontal square tube at the rear of the tiller that has a vertically welded tube section at each end – those tubes are there to hold a round bar which drops down to the ground and has a wheel on the end of it – which controls how far down the rear of the rotor will drop into the ground as it breaks the soil up. Probably weren't there when you purchased the tiller - replace them, or make up a pair.<br /><br />Do not use the rear tiller wheels to control the tiller angle – use only the centre hitch of the 3 point hitch<br /><br /><b>H-frame </b>that is located on top of the tiller – the centrally located adjustable support tube (in the photo it looks like half of it is white. The white section should have a thread turned inside it, into/out of which the other half can be screwed. Adjusting this will control the angle (as opposed to depth) at which the tiller drops into the soil. If this can't be adjusted then adjust the centre hitch which is the upper of the 3 point hitch mounting bars/tubes – the one that hold the tiller to the upper 3 point hitch mounting pin – it should also have a thread that allows length adjustment. You want to adjust either of these so that when the tiller drops to the ground it is horizontal with the ground – not tilted downwards from the lower 2 hitch pins, and not tilted up wards from the lower 2 hitch pins – it should be level. If it is not level then the spring loaded rear flaps will drag the soil back into the blades – this is when your fuel consumption will rise.<br /><br /><b>Lower hitch points </b> – ensure these are equal length. If one is longer, then the tiller will pull off its centre axis to one or other side of the tractor, or one side of the tiller will dig deeper into the ground than the other side resulting in a tilled bed that is either not straight or has a top surface that slant downwards to the longer side.<br /><br /><b>Blade Mounting </b>- make sure the blades are mounted symetricaly i.e. from the centre working outwards to each end, each blade on each side of the centre should be facing the same way as its opposite number. There is often a sticker on the tinwork of the tiller which will show you various blade setup patterns i.e. by changing certain blades to face from left to right or right to left, you can create a flat mound, or a rounded mound, or even 2 or 3 separate mounds – great for creating raised vegetable beds.<br /><br /><b>Blade Bolts </b>– on most tillers the bolt that holds the blade to the shaft is designed so that it can only be put on one way, but one some you can put the bolt on from left to right, or from right left. If the latter, ensure the nuts on each bolt are on the oppisite side to which the blade curves. Doing this prevents stones from being thrown against and damaging the exposed thread, so that when it comes to changing blades you do not have to cut the bolts<br /><br />Do not use the same depth year after year – this will result in a hard bedpan below the blade max depth resulting in no drainage – change the depth each year.<br /><br />Other than that, the rest is common sense:<br /><br />- check the ground for big rocks before tilling – big stones chew up blades.<br />- keep the drive chain greased or if belts make sure no tears<br />- make sure there is oil in the right angle gear box on the top of the tiller (any diesel engine oil will be fine).<br />- pick up broken blades – get quite sharp in use and can puncture tractor tyres.<br /><br /><br /><br />
<br /><br /><br />

Maisefarmer, Wow you really know your tractors. All great reading. 1500 Rai wow.

I just bought a rotary tiller for my L3408 Kubota. I would like to add that before you use a newly purchased Tiller you should check all the blades to make sure the bolts are tight. We had lots just fall off before we tightened them all. Also, when working on the tiller attached to the Tractor and lifted by the 3 point hitch, one should make sure it is blocked to it can't drop unexpectedly if the "lower lever" is moved by accident (on our model there is a lock) or if the hydraulic seals leak and it slowly lowers on you. I also use "Loctite" to keep the bolts from loosening. The local Tiller model I bought is a "SBK" that has a center gear box(uses 140 "straight weight" gear oil), left hand side gears(not belt) transfers power to the rotor shaft. The cover in the back does not have a spring as you mentioned, but adjusts to only a fixed position. I have adjusted it fairly high. Also, it does not have wheels on the side to measure the distance to the ground(I think this is what you were talking about the wheels are for) but sort of a "skid bar" on each side that drags along the ground to adjust the depth the tiller cut into the ground. Our tractor runs best at a 2300 RPM, there is even a little line on the RPM meter to indicate this, so I am confused when you all talk about 540 engine RPM. The 2 PTO speeds they are 540 RPM and 780 RPM as Gary A. mentioned earlier. I was not sure which to use and used the 780 for 4+ days. It worked well but because the ground was so wet it bogged down a lot so I had to raise the tiller to get the RPM back up and continue. I did not see anything about the correct PTO speed to use on the sheet metal or any other place. So I am still not sure what speed to use but will test the slower speed as everyone is suggesting. I am new to farming and it's great to find this forum... a wealth of Knowledge.

Jerry

Posted

Jerry, I think you'll find that the 540 RPM setting will more than do the job. The dirt is broken up very well at that speed and at 780 RPM, it turns to dust. It's possible that what you call skid bars are just feet for when you take the tiller off the tractor. They keep it sitting upright and it is much easier to hook it back up with the feet on it. I control the till depth with the three point hitch.

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