Canon 70-200mm F4 IS USM

[astral]

I have just purchased the lens to use with my 40D.

What is the best way to set the camera with this lens mounted.

Normally I use aperture priority, just keeping an eye on the shutter speed

to make sure it does not get too slow.

It seems that it would be to use shutter priority with the longer lens

to avoid shake, even with IS turned on.

What settings do you use?

What is the lowest shutter speed that is practical with the lens?

Bear in mind that I have reached 60 and my hands are not as steady as they were at 20.

Any advice welcome.

Thanks

[The Vulcan]

The accepted rule of thumb is to set a shutter speed equal to the lens focal length i.e. 1/200th. The fact that this is also an IS lens purportedly giving an additional 3 stops should assure a sharp image.

I would set program mode, as indeed I nearly always do myself. The camera will set the correct EV and then you can simply adjust this value by rotating the control dial until you have achieved the desired exposure setting. Alternatively, shutter priority at 1/250th.

I'm not familiar with this particular lens but I have the 70-200 f2.8L and find it very contrasty. As such I invariably shoot as ISO 200 to smooth out the tonal range. If your lens has this attribute and you adopt this ISO then I would guess you'd be shooting at something like 1/250th @ f8 on the average day (over here)

Enjoy your new lens - maybe we'll get to see some shots eh?

[hughden]

I had the 70-200 non IS lens and could not get consistently good results with it, probably something to do with my advancing years; although I am much younger than Astral at 59!

I traded-in for the F4 IS and what a difference. Much sharper pictures and the IS on this new design lens is amazing. At 200mm I can use 1/125th with no problem.

The panda was in bad light and it managed a sharp enough image at 1/50th (at 200mm). The option to set the IS for panning is also extremely effective, the bike was at 1/100th at 200mm and the IS really locks it in.

It's a great lens. I normally use it for sports and use shutter priority. Just depends on what you are shooting. As The Vulcan suggests, stick it in program mode and try some different combinations. Have fun!

[Nordlys]

It seems that it would be to use shutter priority with the longer lens

to avoid shake, even with IS turned on.

Normally I use aperture priority and set the F stop at the maximum aperture (F2.8 for me as I have faster zoom) and if maximum aperture yields too soft image images then the next fastest F stop at F3.5 (although my EF70-200mm F2.8 is sharp enough for me from maximum aperture). That would automatically set the fastest possible shutter speed under available light condition. And if that's not good enough I'll just raise ISO value. I have used monopod with my 70-200 (non-IS) when shooting at 1/60 sec but it turned out to be useless as all of them came out blurred. For this reason I'm contemplating trading my 70-200 with IS version (F2.8). Hefty price aside, I just wonder if nice bokeh of F2.8 is worthy of extra weight and size over F4 model.

Here's an interesting test on EF70-200mm IS (but F2.8 model) just released on the dpreview.com that shows how many % of the times the images came out blurred both with ISO on and off, at 70mm focal legnth and 200mm. Interestingly, IS is more effective at longer focal length (where you need the stabilization most) than at 70mm when IS is on.

http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/canon_...m_c16/page5.asp

Edited May 17, 2008 by Nordlys

[The Vulcan]

It seems that it would be to use shutter priority with the longer lens

to avoid shake, even with IS turned on.

Normally I use aperture priority and set the F stop at the maximum aperture (F2.8 for me as I have faster zoom) and if maximum aperture yields too soft image images then the next fastest F stop at F3.5 (although my EF70-200mm F2.8 is sharp enough for me from maximum aperture). That would automatically set the fastest possible shutter speed under available light condition. And if that's not good enough I'll just raise ISO value. I have used monopod with my 70-200 (non-IS) when shooting at 1/60 sec but it turned out to be useless as all of them came out blurred. For this reason I'm contemplating trading my 70-200 with IS version (F2.8). Hefty price aside, I just wonder if nice bokeh of F2.8 is worthy of extra weight and size over F4 model.

Here's an interesting test on EF70-200mm IS (but F2.8 model) just released on the dpreview.com that shows how many % of the times the images came out blurred both with ISO on and off, at 70mm focal legnth and 200mm. Interestingly, IS is more effective at longer focal length (where you need the stabilization most) than at 70mm when IS is on.

http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/canon_...m_c16/page5.asp

Blurred images and IS are not connected. If it's not in focus at the point of shutter release all you'll achieve is a stabilised out of focus image. If a moving subject is out of focus the IS will NOT snap focus. To achieve continuous focus whilst tracking a moving subject you need to switch to predictive focus i.e. A1 Servo. The camera will then lock in on the subject and track it. The IS will kick in and stabilise to prevent CAMERA SHAKE - which is what it's for.

btw Using the above config I often shoot at 1/60th handheld without problems on my very weighty 70-200 non IS

Edited May 17, 2008 by The Vulcan

[Nordlys]

Blurred images and IS are not connected. If it's not in focus at the point of shutter release all you'll achieve is a stabilised out of focus image. If a moving subject is out of focus the IS will NOT snap focus. To achieve continuous focus whilst tracking a moving subject you need to switch to predictive focus i.e. A1 Servo. The camera will then lock in on the subject and track it. The IS will kick in and stabilise to prevent CAMERA SHAKE - which is what it's for.

Yes I know. I meant motion blur. Or if blur only implies out of focus is there any terminology for unsharp image caused by camera shake?

[The Vulcan]

Blurred images and IS are not connected. If it's not in focus at the point of shutter release all you'll achieve is a stabilised out of focus image. If a moving subject is out of focus the IS will NOT snap focus. To achieve continuous focus whilst tracking a moving subject you need to switch to predictive focus i.e. A1 Servo. The camera will then lock in on the subject and track it. The IS will kick in and stabilise to prevent CAMERA SHAKE - which is what it's for.

Yes I know. I meant motion blur. Or if blur only implies out of focus is there any terminology for unsharp image caused by camera shake?

Yea - camera shake!

Seriously, blur on the locked in subject is usually attributable to failing to track accurately. Now, if your using A1 servo, and getting sharp images with motion blur then there's something amiss with the camera/lens - might be worth getting them checked over

[astral]

Thanks for that input.

I will have to experiment.

BTW in programme mode (P) the camera chose 1/500th at F11 with the 70-200 mounted

and a few minutes later 1/250 at F16 with the 17/85.

Looks like the processor chooses based on light and lens.

Bright sun here in India, before the monsoon hits.

[The Vulcan]

Thanks for that input.

I will have to experiment.

BTW in programme mode (P) the camera chose 1/500th at F11 with the 70-200 mounted

and a few minutes later 1/250 at F16 with the 17/85.

Looks like the processor chooses based on light and lens.

Bright sun here in India, before the monsoon hits.

Same EV but adjusting as per fitted lens as you say

[Nordlys]

Seriously, blur on the locked in subject is usually attributable to failing to track accurately. Now, if your using A1 servo, and getting sharp images with motion blur then there's something amiss with the camera/lens - might be worth getting them checked over

I usually don't shoot any moving subjects like Formula 1 car or athletes. Faraway subject in the photos that turned out to appear shaky that I shot with 5D + monopod was stationary (I'm guessting you thought I was shooting moving subjects as you'd probably use a tripod to shoot stationary subject and monopod for moving subject). I thought 1/60 sec would freeze the image as the monopod would sufficiently stabilize the camera from vertical motion shake, even at 200mm focal length. It didn't.

[The Vulcan]

Seriously, blur on the locked in subject is usually attributable to failing to track accurately. Now, if your using A1 servo, and getting sharp images with motion blur then there's something amiss with the camera/lens - might be worth getting them checked over

I usually don't shoot any moving subjects like Formula 1 car or athletes. Faraway subject in the photos that turned out to appear shaky that I shot with 5D + monopod was stationary (I'm guessting you thought I was shooting moving subjects as you'd probably use a tripod to shoot stationary subject and monopod for moving subject). I thought 1/60 sec would freeze the image as the monopod would sufficiently stabilize the camera from vertical motion shake, even at 200mm focal length. It didn't.

A monopod isn't really that steady to be honest. It doesn't eliminate "user shake/movement" like a tripod would. I use my monopod as a "leveler" rather than a stabiliser i.e. keeping the moving subject on a level plan whilst I'm shooting. And it's also quite nice to lean on until the next shot appears!

Maybe you should try mirror-up, remote release and a tripod to see if it's sharp. If the problem still exists then a trip to the service centre seems in order

[Nordlys]

I know I shouldn't be so lazy to use a tripod. Although I'm quite a bit younger than Astral and hughden , I find the weight of 5D (with battery grip), two lenses and speedlite 430EX alone to be too much that it takes so much strain out of me when out in the field. I actually barely even take my 70-200 F2.8 out with me except on road trips. I would like a good, solid tripod for my 5D. But going out on the field with 2kg tripod (if it's carbon fiber made) with 5D makes it out of question for me unless I have a specific subject in mind that absolutely requires that set up (like shooting sunset or moon rise). I had good resluts with my 24-105mm F4 with IS that I can freeze the image at shutter speed as slow as 1/2 second (but not always the case). I'd just replace my 70-200 F2.8 with IS.

Edited May 17, 2008 by Nordlys

[The Vulcan]

I know I shouldn't be so lazy to use a tripod. Although I'm quite a bit younger than Astral and hughden , I find the weight of 5D (with battery grip), two lenses and speedlite 430EX alone to be too much that it takes so much strain out of me when out in the field. I actually barely even take my 70-200 F2.8 out with me except on road trips. I would like a good, solid tripod for my 5D. But going out on the field with 2kg tripod (if it's carbon fiber made) with 5D makes it out of question for me unless I have a specific subject in mind that absolutely requires that set up (like shooting sunset or moon rise). I had good resluts with my 24-105mm F4 with IS that I can freeze the image at shutter speed as slow as 1/2 second (but not always the case). I'd just replace my 70-200 F2.8 with IS.

Just digging up this topic again - here's a little evidence that hand holding non-IS zooms does produce sharp images. I guess had I been using an IS lens it would be even sharper.

Canon 5D - 70-200 f2.8L@200mm - ISO500 - hand held at 1/60th!

I focused (manually) on the microphone and metered (manually set) from the song sheet.

No USM applied which will of course enhance the sharpness

[Nordlys]

So I guess this concludes hughden got a duff copy?

Anybody knows if IS version is better than non-IS?

I hear there's more to IS than IS, that its glasses are actually better than non-IS (and IS comes with O-rings, weather proof). Can anyone confirm that?

I brought my EF70-200mm F2.8L to fotofile last week to have them assess how much they'd take it for trade-in with IS version. They offered 27,000 Baht for my mint condition non-IS. Another 35,000 Baht for trade in with IS. Thought I can buy a nice L prime for that price (aiming for EF135mm F2L) so came with the same zoom (but with Speedlite EX5802).

Edited June 17, 2008 by Nordlys

[hughden]

Either a duff copy or a duff photographer; either are possible!

[The Vulcan]

A link to pretty much everything that's Canon

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews...ens-Review.aspx