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Trying To Make Dreambox 500+ Work In My Condo...help!


chacker

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Hi all,

I recently decided to try and switch my UBC-provided decoder box (one of their older models) with a Dreambox 500+ (which I purchased). I am a paying Platinum True Visions subscriber, so just thought I would be able to setup the DM500+, switch the smartcard from the old box to the new one, and everything would be fine...well...not so fast...

I'm able to get the DM setup no problem (currently using PLI image) - I'm familiar with Linux and believe I've got that part right, as it properly recognized the UBC smartcard (using scam). I'm even able to successfully receive a lot of the channels with no problem using the DM500s. Problem is that many channels (like SRES in particular) seem to SKIP and FLUTTER to a point that makes them virtually unwatchable. Compare that with the old decoder (UBC-provided) which has no similar problems (I switched them out at the same time, several times, viewing the same channel to prove this). Same hookup point, same "up-converter", and seemingly same configs.

I believe the problem lies in the fact that I'm in a condo which uses some sort of shared dish (MATV?) system with a single dish on the roof and some big distribution / splitter system; and it seems that the DM500 is less tolerant to slightly weaker signals than the UBC box is. However, it could be a different issue, in that the DM500 does provide many other connection / configuration capabilities beyond what I can see in the UBC decoder, so I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with getting such a config to work in a similar "shared-dish" condo setting. A private dish is not an option - not allowed here - so I've got to make this work or it will have all been a waste of time and money! ARGHH!!!

Can anyone help?

Thanks!

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For your Dreambox you need a signal of about 90%. I don't know what cam your using. Try CCcam or MGCam. There is also one which combines the 2. Download it using your Dreambox, under Add-ons, I think. Could always mount a small solid dish ( something like the red ones you see) inside a window if it gives you a clear shot at the sat your aiming at. Here is a link for using the DB:

http://www.sat-universe.com/

Learned a lot from some of these sat forums.

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I'm using scam, which seems to be the one which recognizes the UBC smartcard, but I'm not getting close to 90% signal on most channels.

Are you implying that using an alternate cam, which can recognize/decode a UBC smartcard could possibly result in a more powerful signal? I was under the impression that there was only one that would work...but I'm willing to try ofcourse...please name the cam that combines, or otherwise might help with the issue if you can.

As for the dish - not an option...but thanks for the suggestion...

Appreciate the response and help!

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When you push the blue button on the remote, go to add-ons. There you can download Cams. CCam works well but is slower than MGCam ( is good during good reception weather) when switching channels. You can switch btween the two as you see fit. My son uses one which has both and listed as such. The signal strenght which will be displayed at the bottom of the screen needs to be around 90% for a good picture, I have gotten OK reception with less, you will have to be the judge on that. Do not download too much stuff the DB can't hold a lot.

This is a guide which may help you:

http://www.doom9.org/DigiTV/dbox-howto.htm

You should get Dreambox Control Center and Dreambox Edit also. Free downloads. Hang in there it took me awhile to get things running too. Bit frustrating at times. Really should get on a Sat forum for better answers, I had to.

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Hi all,

I recently decided to try and switch my UBC-provided decoder box (one of their older models) with a Dreambox 500+ (which I purchased). I am a paying Platinum True Visions subscriber, so just thought I would be able to setup the DM500+, switch the smartcard from the old box to the new one, and everything would be fine...well...not so fast...

I'm able to get the DM setup no problem (currently using PLI image)

Firstly the DM500 and the DM500+ are two very different boxes, where the DM500+ (an openenbedded box) will out proform a DM500 (a CDK box) any day of the week. The symptoms you mention would indicate you have a DM500 and most likey a clone, as it is a known issue that clones do not have the power to correctly switch the 18v (H) line correctly on long coxial runs and the pixalating of the screen you mention would indicate that.

SCAM works well, one of the best softcams to use, but do not expect many people to know what it is (smile).

As to PLi, look at our PLi wiki on this link (yes I am part of the PLI team too), it may help a bit, but I suspect not to much, as I suspect this is a hardware issue, by all accounts.

To prove this, try these two options;

1. Press your Blue Button, Select satellite configuration, select Thaicom 2/5 Ku and set the increase power tab to ON. This most likely will not work, but worth a try.

2. You can prove it is a hardware issue, by looping your 500 with your Truevisions box. Plug the satellite feed into your Truebox and then take a loop out of the Truebox into your 500 and you most likely find it works as it should.

The poster above is confusing the PLI software with something like Gemini and confused about what a softcam does, but just ignore it, or you will be going around in circles following those coments.

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joncl / mellow1,

Thanks for your responses.

joncl - you bring up an interesting set of points. I was not being strayed by the cam discussions - I'm aware that SCAM is regarded as the best cam for a local smartcard, and I have read many related discussions on this in various SAT forums / etc.

I had already tried the "increased power" option you mentioned with no success.

I have not tried the loop scenario (out of the true box, into the DM) but I will do that later today. Is there another way to test / detect for whether or not the box is a DM500 or a DM500+, and whether or not it's a clone?

Thanks again...

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Is there another way to test / detect for whether or not the box is a DM500 or a DM500+, and whether or not it's a clone?

You can see it on the remote control by pressing the menu button | information | About the hardware and it will say either DM500 or DM500plus or DM500+ .

Or you can look under the web interface as shown in the attachment. If you really stuck PM me here or on the PL-images (user jonc every where else but here) web site and bring it over and I will have a look at it for you.

I did not expect the increase voltage to work as I said above, but the loop option should work OK if everything else is set up in the box as it should be.

post-63721-1255577307_thumb.jpg

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joncl,

The output from the web interface on my side looks exactly like your output - model dm500; manufacturer, processor, etc all the same...

But does this really indicate whether it's a clone or not? I suppose not, huh?

I'm trying to do the loop test, but unfortunately I don't have the right cable handy to go out from the true decoder into the DM500, so I'm going to have to work on that one a bit...

IN a previous post, you mentioned the 18V (H) line - and I know there's a setting in the transponder configuration that deals with the voltage. My current setting is H/V - but 18V is an option - is this something I should try?

Chase

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But does this really indicate whether it's a clone or not? I suppose not, huh?

IN a previous post, you mentioned the 18V (H) line - and I know there's a setting in the transponder configuration that deals with the voltage. My current setting is H/V - but 18V is an option - is this something I should try?

No it tells us you have a DM500 not a DM500+ as the + has other options to try that the 500 does not.

You can set the setting to 18v but unless it is on a multiswitch in your building it will make little difference I suspect.

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joncl,

Well, I think the "multiswitch" is potentially the root of the problems...as I know that this condo building does indeed use some sort of single, shared dish distribution (multiswitch???) system. Don't know the make, brand, or model - but it is some form of a common shared system within the building.

I'll try the 18v setting...

Certainly appreciate all of your help...

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18v change had no effect...still get some channels great, others (XZYT, SRES in particular) very very poor - virtually unviewable. SNR on the system rarely goes about 83% as well...

It's probably worth mentioning that the frequency setting for the sat had to be set to 11231 in this building - 11300 doesn't work - I got that from checking the config in the true decoder...presume it has something to do with the distribution / multiswitching system in the building.

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18v change had no effect...still get some channels great, others (XZYT, SRES in particular) very very poor - virtually unviewable. SNR on the system rarely goes about 83% as well...

Try the loop option and I suspect that will work when you grab a bit a rg6 and 'F' connectors (you can buy them even in Big C and tescos etc for a few baht). If the SNR is below 75-77 you will get the symptoms you mention for the reasons I suggested.

My little 1' dish (30cm) I use for a demo here works well and in the rain most times.

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joncl,

I guess my question should have been more along the lines of whether or not there are any converters/boosters/etc which could be put in-line between the long coax feed from the building and the DM that would solve the problem?

Sorry for my ignorance...

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joncl,

I guess my question should have been more along the lines of whether or not there are any converters/boosters/etc which could be put in-line between the long coax feed from the building and the DM that would solve the problem?

Sorry for my ignorance...

I'm also looking for an inexpensive booster. I have one ( antenna booster) I was using for an Angelbox before Dream TV switched encryption ( can't get it anymore), but it doesn't work with the Dreambox. Would like to find something which works.

It is true, that I'm not very knowledgable about the Dreambox, nor electronics in general, but I do have 2 DB's, and an Angelbox which work, and I managed to get them running with help from Satellite forums.

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