Break-in Techniques For New Bike

[BangRon]

Like some feedback on BREAK-IN viewpoints HARD vs SOFT? Benefits drawbacks? New topic basis on users hints. Novice to motorcycle thangs, and new machines, most toys previous were second hand and broken in very hard.

Anyone know if Kawasaki recommended 1,600 km BREAK-IN rule thoroughly needs to be followed ? ; (less than 4,000rpm first 0-800km then less than 6,000rpm next 800-1,600km).

No fun biking about at a snail's pace on the new 2010 250R ; with my fat ass only able to get to 65kph top gear at 4,000 rpm. Two weeks past now, only at 550km on odometer.

Start a thread.

Many articles written to support the "Hard Break In" method and it's always worked well for me. This is a great article: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Go change your oil and filter NOW, then let her rip! Remember to keep revs varied, avoid lugging the engine, and do a lot of engine braking.

Ride On!

I sure didn't follow that recommendation and now, over a year later and only ridden every four months or so (but some 7000 km) it's still running fine....do what Tony said; the factory definitely has a BIG safety margin built into their recommendations to prevent warranty claims and appearance that their products are crap.

Start a thread.

[ballzafire]

I recommend just following the manufacturer's instructions. They obviously know best.

[FlatOut]

There's so much debate about this, although my biking knowledge is limited, with cars I've always changed oil twice every 500 miles and similarly to your quote, gien it varied revs. Not caning the living daylights out of it, but just running it through its range. Then change oil fairly regularly. Using a thick cheap oil for the first one and then progress to semi synth.

As I said there's so much debate, and no doubt someone will tell me I'm wrong.

With a motorbike, I'd run it smoothly up the rev range for a few hundreds kms and dump the oil.

*Saying that, have you ever seen how dealers and 'mechanics' nail cars/bikes. They don't all just go straight in the show room.*

I'm only replying to subscribe to the thread

[ScubaBuddha]

Tony (BigBikeBkk) will be along shortly to sort it all out.

[Travelmate]

just pin the throttle and enjoy the bike.

The modern engine is virtually bomb proof.

[PeaceBlondie]

I started a daily 70-km round trip daily commute on my first CBR150. Riding under 4,000 rpm would have doubled my commute time. 55,000 km later she'd still hit over 135 kph. Oh - no Thai bike under true 240 cc has a tach, other than CBR, so how would you even know?

[neverdie]

Tony (BigBikeBkk) will be along shortly to sort it all out.

Well hopefully he gets it right this time.

OP, theres been a fair bit mentioned about this on other threads here on thaivisa, it was discussed inside the er6n thread and also the ninja 250 thread and a couple of others.

For max hp, you may like to break it in on the dyno, see video below for explanation:

[BSJ]

Didn't we have another thread on this subject a few months back?

[VocalNeal]

Bangron,

With 550 kms on the clock it is too late to do it the right or the wrong way. From memory it's the first 20mins which is most important. As you have done 550 kms change the oil and then ride it normally don't baby it. It you live near a hill you might wish to ride up the hill a few times.

There are many article on the internet about breaking in motorbikes.

Enjoy the bike.

[onlycw]

Howdy, I would take pains to change the oil 1 more time, like after 200 km. And always wait until the oil is warm before revving the engine - now and later

i read an article by someone who claims the piston rings will sit better when you go wild from the first mile. On my bike? Never!

Also, many gear changes and different loads (go to a hilly region) helps. Monotonous 4000 rpm for 100 km would be terrible.

How do you like the riding position? Or are you a masochist? Just kidding.

Chris

[BangRon]

Acknowledgment to all, thanks for feedback and views. Mindboggling soft vs hard debates out there on net. Myself an apprentice to sports bikes, with the entry level 250R comfortable using Kawasaki recommended break-in procedure for new machine; deem cross-functional teams publish these parameters based on FMEA and DVPR product development and engineering principles. Consider more than just seating rings to cylinder walls for break in as many write ups seem to key in on. Keep in mind valves, springs, bearings, transmission gears, clutch plates, tires, wheel bearings, brakes, …etc… ...

Been taking the RPMs somewhat easy, allowing suitable warm ups, all the same keeping rpm wide-ranging continually changing engine speed. Been putting on many different loads on motor, touching on lots of hilly roads. Using high and low gears, lower and higher rpms, been keeping it mixed up (variety is the spice of life). Changed oil and oil filter with non-synthetic at 550 and 1050km. Got about 32km per liter first 800km in the 4000rpm 65kph and below span. Now having a little more fun in the 6,000 rpm range, can get my lard ass up to 90kmh. Roughly 500km more before I start to attacking this powertrain. Hopefully then I wont be doing any write ups on laying the bike down methods.

Some interesting related links. Peace and No Worries!

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Do_I_really_have_to_follow_this_break-in_period%3F

http://motorcycles.suite101.com/article.cfm/engine_breakin_controversy

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm