After Market Seats?

[andrew55]

Got an D-Max Hi-Lander which I love. Drive long haul a lot and the driver's seat is killing my back. Any suggestions on a good seat (Recaro etc) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in anticipation from my back and I. 1st time I've done this (OP?) so hope I,ve done it right. Andrew

PS How do I post pic?

[powderpuff]

PM sent

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[andrew55]

Thanks Powderpuff and Transam.

Be in touch Rick.

[culicine]

Just highly padded seat covers are all that are required. Even my moderately padded ones for 1000 baht are much better than the standard firm seat. I've also seem much more padded ones. Genuine recaros are very expensive here; the 6000 baht ones in the market are copies.

[MoonRiverOasis]

There's a huge range of aftermarket seats around the accessory shops, here's a link to get you started: http://www.rstyleracing.com/index.aspx?Cat...070908015606504

[Deeral]

It is most likely your posture on a long journey that is causing your problem....it also depends on the nature of your back problem.

Rather than buy a new seat, spend some time first looking at your driving position.

many people place themselves too far away or too near to the steering wheel and more importantly the pedals.

If the seat swab is too far back, every time you apply the brakes (or clutch on a manual) you are twisting your spine a little in order to reach the pedals - repeat this on a long journey and you will get pain. (the angle between your forearm and upper arm should be a little more 90 degrees)

If the back of the seat is too far back, although you may feel you can steer OK, any other controls or adjustments, switches, lights radio will require that you bend forward a little - again repeat this action and you will aggravate any back problems.

If you lean too far back in the seat bumps may cause problems and too close or too hunched up. you'll get further problems.

Hold the wheel at about "10 to 2" sit quite upright with your bum against the back of the seat and make sure your legs aren't stretched to the limit when you depress a pedal.

Get your mirrors adjusted so you don't have to squirm about to get a good view in them, and use the steering wheel adjustment so the wheel isn't too high up.

your back should be straight and your should not feel your tummy is "scrunched up".

Take care entering and exiting the vehicle and avoid leather seats as they allow you to slip out of "whack" on a long drive - fabric holds you in place.

BTW - a seat belt is really good for holding you in the right position.

[andrew55]

Culcine - Think I'll try the padded seat covers 1st. Funds are limited and don't need the disappointment of a poor copy for 7000. The link kindly given by

MoonRiverOasis is a great drool site(thanks MRO)

Deeral - Really professional advice. Sounds like you really know your stuff. Similar comments over the years from chiro's, osteo's and homeo's. Think I'm aware of your points, but with your step by step notes will endeavour to be more conscious of posture.

Have been working as a farrier(horseshoer) specialising in dressage for the past 30 years so have some knowledge of the bio-mechanics of which you speak. Still easy to neglect practising what one preaches. Will print your reply and keep in car.

Interesting that no problems on my motorcycle as I ride'athletically' (riders will know what I mean!)

Thanks all. Happy and safe motoring.

[andrew55]

It is most likely your posture on a long journey that is causing your problem....it also depends on the nature of your back problem.

Rather than buy a new seat, spend some time first looking at your driving position.

many people place themselves too far away or too near to the steering wheel and more importantly the pedals.

If the seat swab is too far back, every time you apply the brakes (or clutch on a manual) you are twisting your spine a little in order to reach the pedals - repeat this on a long journey and you will get pain. (the angle between your forearm and upper arm should be a little more 90 degrees)

If the back of the seat is too far back, although you may feel you can steer OK, any other controls or adjustments, switches, lights radio will require that you bend forward a little - again repeat this action and you will aggravate any back problems.

If you lean too far back in the seat bumps may cause problems and too close or too hunched up. you'll get further problems.

Hold the wheel at about "10 to 2" sit quite upright with your bum against the back of the seat and make sure your legs aren't stretched to the limit when you depress a pedal.

Get your mirrors adjusted so you don't have to squirm about to get a good view in them, and use the steering wheel adjustment so the wheel isn't too high up.

your back should be straight and your should not feel your tummy is "scrunched up".

Take care entering and exiting the vehicle and avoid leather seats as they allow you to slip out of "whack" on a long drive - fabric holds you in place.

BTW - a seat belt is really good for holding you in the right position.

Deeral - One of your points differs from previous advice I've received ie. holding wheel 10-2. What do think about lowering wheel and holding 8-4 for long distances? Was professional advice(as is your's obviously) and seems comfortable. Thinking as I write this it's probably more advantagious to neck/ upper torso than lower back. Do you take patients?? Need a horse or two shod on a barter??

BTW from a country with mandatory seat belt wearing so ALWAYS wear. I don't need to choose to wear them - I'd need to consciously decide not to. Hope folks are aware that airbag deployment without belts worn is often a lethal combination.

Thanks again for your time,

Andrew

[Deeral]

at "20 to 5" - right? - your arms will be in a comfortable low position.

THis however begs 2 questions

! - why is the wheel apparently so high that you need to do this.

2 What do you do if you have to actually turn the wheel a significant amount?

In answer to number 1 - you might find that with your seat etc in the right place in relation to the wheel, you may not need to lower your arms at all and that "hanging" in 10 to 2 is perfectly comfortable. This may also be thew result of "slouching" or seeking a more comfortable position - which would indicate the seating isn't set up right.

Secondly - with your hands in the lower position, steering may require more effort and movement from this position - in the high position you are just pulling down (with gravity) with either arm. The mechanics from the other position require and upward movement or possibly a change of position or movement of the body.

I should point out that ALL of this is a matter of very small adjustments but they may over a long journey accumulate into something more significant.....at the end of the day you need to adjust to a position that YOU feel comfortable and in control in, and that suits your type of driving style.

On a motorbike - the human spine is evolved from animals that walked on all fours - its natural position therefore is hung between the front and rear pairs of legs - so I would suggest that the "forward leaning" position on a motorbike might be the nearest to this and therefore the most satisfactory for your back in the long run - unfortunately there are a lot of other factors to take into consideration here as the tail end of the spine may well be bent over too..... a reclining position on a bike may emulate that of a car.

If you remember the recumbent position of the Sinclair C5 - that was a particularly good position for driving. I still can't understand why the motor industry hasn't got rid of the steering wheel and replaced it with a similar thing to the C5 - handles down at seat level on either side - you would then have your arms in a perfect "at rest" position. .......anyhow that's another story.

[andrew55]

at "20 to 5" - right? - your arms will be in a comfortable low position.

THis however begs 2 questions

! - why is the wheel apparently so high that you need to do this.

2 What do you do if you have to actually turn the wheel a significant amount?

In answer to number 1 - you might find that with your seat etc in the right place in relation to the wheel, you may not need to lower your arms at all and that "hanging" in 10 to 2 is perfectly comfortable. This may also be thew result of "slouching" or seeking a more comfortable position - which would indicate the seating isn't set up right.

Secondly - with your hands in the lower position, steering may require more effort and movement from this position - in the high position you are just pulling down (with gravity) with either arm. The mechanics from the other position require and upward movement or possibly a change of position or movement of the body.

I should point out that ALL of this is a matter of very small adjustments but they may over a long journey accumulate into something more significant.....at the end of the day you need to adjust to a position that YOU feel comfortable and in control in, and that suits your type of driving style.

On a motorbike - the human spine is evolved from animals that walked on all fours - its natural position therefore is hung between the front and rear pairs of legs - so I would suggest that the "forward leaning" position on a motorbike might be the nearest to this and therefore the most satisfactory for your back in the long run - unfortunately there are a lot of other factors to take into consideration here as the tail end of the spine may well be bent over too..... a reclining position on a bike may emulate that of a car.

If you remember the recumbent position of the Sinclair C5 - that was a particularly good position for driving. I still can't understand why the motor industry hasn't got rid of the steering wheel and replaced it with a similar thing to the C5 - handles down at seat level on either side - you would then have your arms in a perfect "at rest" position. .......anyhow that's another story.

Hi Deeral,

Meant holding wheel at 8(L) on the dial and 4® Even 7 and 5. Early onset of old timer's disease/syndrome. God forbid I ever get a digital watch. Not so safe for radical turning. Very much for straight roads, but anything can and will happen.

Accept that the smallest adjustments aggregate to make substantial differences to bio-mechanics/dynamics.

Also determining cause and symptom. A chronic R ankle may cause an acute L hip, or vice versa.

Think the bike is simply a matter of being more athletic. Constant adjustment to C of E and C of G by moving around in and out of the saddle and on the handle-bars.

Not familiar with Sinclair C5. Guess it's like a basic billy cart steering system.

Anyway, Going to be conscious of posture, steering, seat as you advise. Will buy a padded seat cover. Drive few hours south this pm and let you know. All else fails I'll regress to walking on all fours.

Thanks again for you time mate.

Andrew

[Deeral]

OK - I've ost you on the clock dial thing.....but you're right about chronic ankle to bad hip.

Folks develop terrible "twisting" motions to avoid tweeking an injury and in the end either exacerbate it r create another, or worse using a stick or crutches incorrectly.

Good luck!