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Locating Fuel Filter And Jets


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ummm.. just a thought. I do not know much about 2t's. But i would imagine that the carb needs rejetting when you do something like this. more air in or out means it burns quicker so the bike getting hot may be that its running lean.......... Thats kinda the point i was trying to make before. Research your mods rather than relying on a Thai mech of possible dubious quality.

But then on the other hand it might not be any of the above cos i certainly did no research  :D:D

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Hmm. How did he "enlarge" the ports? Doesn't the KR have KIPP or KIPS or whatever? There is a huge difference between enlarging the ports to increase air flow and enlarging the ports by raising the upper edge. What that does is to alter the port timing.

From memory if he enlarged the port by raising the ports top edge he has moved the power band higher up the rev range. If the engine is now breathing better the jets need to be changed. One of the things he has done to your pipe is put a solid sleeve in the muffler part of the tailpipe effectively nullifying any silencing effect. Please have 100-200 baht ready!

Welcome to the Pandora's Box of 2T.smile.gif

Lenny I dug out the formula. The relationship between HP and speed is HP^1/3. To get your 180kph you'll need about 40hp !

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So you think he just nullified the silencing effects because he thought I'd like to have everyone stare at me? :D

Well actually I forgot to mention that he enlarged the jets slightly after the change a couple times while testing, but after a couple times he thought they were large enough and it may be the ignition system.

As of now, 1. It gets hot very fast and 2. It seems to be missing about 2,000 rpm at the top, even thought the rpm needle is missing I can tell it should have a little more at the top before needing to switch gears. But for sure it has more grunt at low-mid rpms and breathes very nicely.

The guy understood everything and I told him what I thought and he said he'd check it out again tomorrow.

I'm definitely going to look for those two genuine ignition system parts as well.

The power valve is working fine and I don't think the spark plug has anything to do with it. A 9 should be fine and a 10 or 11 is only for when you race in the power band for minutes on end.

This leaves two potential issues as far as I am aware of.

1. Too lean near wot when the valve is opened.

2. In-sufficient electricity supplied to the plug by the non-genuine ignition system. (but this wouldn't make it run hot)

As of now it seems to perform about the same whether it is hot or cold, and it does run hot.

The mechanic also said that someone enlarged the carb already but didn't change the jets to accompany it, so this is another thing that could be making it too lean beside the ports enlarging, so maybe the mechanic needs to enlarge the jets a little more.

Well this 2T thing is getting fun and interesting and I think I'm getting close to have a real power house. It just needs the last 2,000ish rpms that seem to be missing and this thing will have the local kids jealous and the police following me home. It already wants to lift the wheel sometimes in first and even after switching gears into 2nd or 3rd though not much.

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So you think he just nullified the silencing effects because he thought I'd like to have everyone stare at me? :D

Well actually I forgot to mention that he enlarged the jets slightly after the change a couple times while testing, but after a couple times he thought they were large enough and it may be the ignition system.

As of now, 1. It gets hot very fast and 2. It seems to be missing about 2,000 rpm at the top, even thought the rpm needle is missing I can tell it should have a little more at the top before needing to switch gears. But for sure it has more grunt at low-mid rpms and breathes very nicely.

The guy understood everything and I told him what I thought and he said he'd check it out again tomorrow.

I'm definitely going to look for those two genuine ignition system parts as well.

The power valve is working fine and I don't think the spark plug has anything to do with it. A 9 should be fine and a 10 or 11 is only for when you race in the power band for minutes on end.

This leaves two potential issues as far as I am aware of.

1. Too lean near wot when the valve is opened.

2. In-sufficient electricity supplied to the plug by the non-genuine ignition system. (but this wouldn't make it run hot)

As of now it seems to perform about the same whether it is hot or cold, and it does run hot.

The mechanic also said that someone enlarged the carb already but didn't change the jets to accompany it, so this is another thing that could be making it too lean beside the ports enlarging, so maybe the mechanic needs to enlarge the jets a little more.

Well this 2T thing is getting fun and interesting and I think I'm getting close to have a real power house. It just needs the last 2,000ish rpms that seem to be missing and this thing will have the local kids jealous and the police following me home. It already wants to lift the wheel sometimes in first and even after switching gears into 2nd or 3rd though not much.

Ummm. I thought Kawasaki said the carb was ok?????????

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In reply to both.

1. The jets ok?

I think Kawa would have just checked the jets. They may have not noticed if someone enlarged the carb a bit. I don't mean the jets, I mean someone wore away at the metal opening to make it larger. They probably just checked the jets and all the jets were stock except the one they replaced. The guy that enlarges carbs, ports and cylinders for a living said that someone already enlarged the carb openings and did an ok job, but didnt change the jets to go along with it.

I would imagine a larger carb would need larger jets so this is what I am thinking. The enlarged ports may make it fire quicker and allow it to breath more but I don't think this would make it leaner but it is after the carboration right? Correct me if I'm wrong. But what he did do when it listened to the engine was enlarge the carbs a bit because he thought the engine was groaning and the carb had been enlarged, and this may have been the more important factor in the performance increase. But I'm not sure.

Either way, jets are cheap and still available at Kawa if the need be.

2. The ignition timing.

I'm not sure what you mean but he is aware that both the coil generator and other part (circuit-wise in between the ignition coil and spark plug, really what to know what to call it) are not genuine and thinks this could be an issue.

He did mention he thought it was a "timing problem" and he took off the thing that the generator sits in (that thing that spins) and checked out the bearing and said it seems fine.

What do you mean by "too advanced?" I don't really understand what you mean by timing and how it can be ran differently.

I am learning lots though and having fun! :D

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2. The ignition timing.

I'm not sure what you mean but he is aware that both the coil generator and other part (circuit-wise in between the ignition coil and spark plug, really what to know what to call it) are not genuine and thinks this could be an issue.

He did mention he thought it was a "timing problem" and he took off the thing that the generator sits in (that thing that spins) and checked out the bearing and said it seems fine.

What do you mean by "too advanced?" I don't really understand what you mean by timing and how it can be ran differently.

I am learning lots though and having fun! :D

Google is your friend... :rolleyes:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing

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Thanks Tony! :D

Well about the timing, I now understand it, but went through every page of the parts catalog and didn't see one part with the word "timing" in it anywhere. The mechanic did one time say he thought it might be a "timing problem" and took off the generator cover and that rotating metal/magnet looking thing that is under it and inspected around it and under it where it attaches. They thought it looked fine.

Also, before I was under the impression that the little coil thing that attaches to the generator cover was the "ignition coil" and kawa had said it wasn't genuine and could be causing issues. It turns out that this part is just the stator and the ignition coil is the part that I was previously referring to as "the part that is, circuit-wise, in between the generator coil and spark plug." I realized this when looking in the parts catalog. My mechanic did point out that it wasn't genuine and there was stock for a genuine part for it, but the whole time I thought kawa was referring to this other part as the potential problem.

I will get this ordered tomorrow.

But I swear I remember the kawa guy was pointing to the stator cover as if the part he was referring to was under it, but really according to what he wrote on the paper for me, when matched up to the parts catalog which he would have followed, it is't under the cover, but rather just under the tank, close to the spark plug...

Edited by lennya12threh
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There is actually two or more Victor models. One being the KR-150C1 and then C2 as well. My stator doesn't look like that at all. I actually found an online pdf the same as the one you just posted and used it to figure out what the ignition coil actually was, but apparently mine is a different Victor and the guy at the shop had two different Victor catalogs and one was the C1 and one was a different one. Mine doesn't have that huge stator and they could tell because one of the models has a separate CDI box and one doesn't or something I forget which one mine was.

Your friend won't need to look for parts as of now, but maybe if the future. :D

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