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Locating Fuel Filter And Jets


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Maichai...... "Or take it to Kawa Rama 9 :) "

Fantastic advice biggrin.gif

Haha, I was joking :) If you don't care about the cost then that is the logical solution. Otherwise roll you sleeves up and try and figure whats wrong with it. Process of elimination. I took an old bike to Honda once; they replaced everything on it that was old and I ended up with a large bill. I suspect Kawasaki would do the same; they are in business to make money so I don't blame them. Labour is cheap so its in their interest to do this, and most people would like old parts to be replaced, so it depends on what you want? Keep an old cheap bike working at minimum cost of renovate back to new?

Crankcase/gearbox; sorry switching between cars and bikes. You know what I mean. Crankcase has the gears/clutch/etc. I also do camera repairs, electronics, computers, smartphones and anything else that breaks that needs fixing.

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Ok, so I took it to Rama 9 and they said come check it out tomorrow at 3pm. I told them about the problem when it gets warm, and bad sound, lose of power ,etc.

I told them to check carb, jets, and engine and he seemed quite confident that just but checking it they would find the issue and there would be no need for test drives. I mentioned that I thought that there is too much or too little fuel entering, or an air or oil leak or something.

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Well I went to Kawa and they changed the air filter, the rar break pads and said that in the carb only one jet was no factory and the rest were ok so they changed it.

The guy said they thought the reason it was having this problem as it get hot / after running a while was because the ignition coil wasn't the genuine one. He was implying that as it gets hot the ignition coil isn't supplying enough electricity to the plug. The only thing was that they had no parts and said they can't order this one anymore so he recommended trying to find one elsewhere that was a better grade though he didn't confirm the grade of mine. I don't think they opened the engine at all even though I said to check the engine.

So I went to a local mechanic near my place asking about the ignition coil but he said it doesn't sound like it is the ignition coil at all. He said if it was then wouldn't have anything to do with "when it gets hot" and that it should have issues starting. He opened the manual he had for the Victor and said it sounds to him like it is those seals by the crank. He said if they are worn as it gets hot air can go in, which is similar to some TV responses. Some other guys on TV had recommended this as well because of the age of the bike, which is interesting.

Maybe I should try do both of the recommendations.

Anyone have insight on the potential ignition coil problem?

-Lenny

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Seemed fine when I drove it home but it wasn't a long drive though normally the problem would arise that quickly. I usually takes 5-10 mins of driving. I'll have to test drive it longer some time. Could be as I go to your place on Sunday!

I'd suspect the issue is still there as all the guy changed was the air filter and pilot jet, (and brake pads)...

Edited by lennya12threh
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The only thing was that they had no parts and said they can't order this one anymore so he recommended trying to find one elsewhere

I have emailed a friend in Indonesia for a price. Although I doubt it is the coil, it doesn't hurt to have the correct one.

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cool thanks. also I have a BP8ES spark plug, but the guy at kawa said this plug is fine.

I'd be interested in a source for parts and am aware that Malaysia, Indo, and the Philippines have alot of nice, good running 2-strokes.

Also wouldn't mind a nice after-market air filter and exhaust system. :D

Also I need new tires, but want some decent ones. Kawa quoted me about 2,000 for a new genuine set. This seemed quite expensive...

Edited by lennya12threh
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"Also I need new tires, but want some decent ones. Kawa quoted me about 2,000 for a new genuine set. This seemed quite expensive..."

You do not say what size or make the tyres are so how can we tell if its expensive or not?

And YES certainly if the coil is faulty it COULD do what the Kawa mech said.

I would have thought getting a coil would be easy.

What year is your bike?

Is it the same engine as the krr?

Edited by thaicbr
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It is the ignition coil, and another mechanic also pointed out the other electrical piece that is in between the ignition coil and the spark plug (not sure what to call it) is also not genuine and could be the issue.

The Victor is 14 years old and the guy said it is the same as the KRR 150 coil but they can't order it anymore.

Today the other mechanic took off the stator cover and thought after all the seals weren't the problem as they were fit quite well and wren't leaking anything. He then thought maybe it was the electrical as well. So maybe Kawa had checked this as well and saw that there was no seal leak there and saw the non-genuine part and thought it was the issue.

I guess I will have try to find a good ignition coil and a good "part that is (circuit-wise) in between the ignition coil and the spark plug." Still also looking for new tires too.

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It is the ignition coil, and another mechanic also pointed out the other electrical piece that is in between the ignition coil and the spark plug (not sure what to call it) is also not genuine and could be the issue.

The Victor is 14 years old and the guy said it is the same as the KRR 150 coil but they can't order it anymore.

Today the other mechanic took off the stator cover and thought after all the seals weren't the problem as they were fit quite well and wren't leaking anything. He then thought maybe it was the electrical as well. So maybe Kawa had checked this as well and saw that there was no seal leak there and saw the non-genuine part and thought it was the issue.

I guess I will have try to find a good ignition coil and a good "part that is (circuit-wise) in between the ignition coil and the spark plug." Still also looking for new tires too.

well then its a 96 so it was built by the same company that own Tiger Motorcycles. You never know THEY may well still have the genuine new coil in stock. They seem like a company that never throws stuff away. Give them a call Khun Pariya 0892018147

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So it was the brake pads :lol:

On a serious note there are loads of KRs around so I can't believe you can't get parts for them. The copy parts are as good (and I have had some rubbish original parts from Honda for my NSR). Coils do go so these should be readily available; have replaced a couple on Yamaha TZR and BelleR.

The trick I think is to find a good bike parts shop. Some will sell you the cheapest parts they can find, while others have their standards and will only sell decent parts at a slightly higher price. But you get what you pay for. Some people want the cheapest, but I think that is false economy and you pay for it down the line. Well that is my experience anyway. If something looks crap I will ask if they have better quality or another one. If you don't like what you are offered, politely refuse and go elsewhere.

If its ignition related maybe you need to check out the CDI; maybe its not original or the wrong type for another bike? Check the HT cable and plug cap? Check electrics; earthing to frame, etc.

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Well I will currently be looking for a new ignition coil and "part that (circuit wise) is in between the ignition coil and spark plug as they are both not genuine. One guy says hes sure they have genuine parts and I gave him my number to call with a price.

Well I really hope the problem is narrowed down to this.

Is does seem to drive a bit better now that Kawa changed one of the jets that wasn't original, and replaced some homemade air filter for a genuine one. I also got a new set of sprockets, chain, and tires for it and replaced all brake pads. Drives great and has alot of power, but still has a noticeable feeling of "getting tired" after driving it for a while or opening up the throttle for extended periods of time. It can usually hit gear 1,2,3 and 4 with the powerband and go quite impressively but will seem to slowly dye out a bit if you do it a couple times.

Feeling quite good about the bike now. Maybe I should get a 9ES plug instead of the 8ES one I have. What's the difference?

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I look to this threat without adding any comments, but as Motorcycle Thailand we would be very interested to see how Kawasaki Thailand resolves this problem. They appealingly don't have parts for an engine they sold less then 4 years ago? Our calls today went into a endless cycle of people telling to call another person and another person until we ended up with the advice to call the same the same people we called before....

Motorcycle Thailand is very willing to assist the owner in getting the part it needs from Kawasaki Thailand in any media needs...

Sure the Kawasaki Victor 150 is a old motorcycle, but Kawasaki Thailand sold (in Thailand) a KRR-150x for less then 3 years ago who uses the same ignition coil...

Is this the service you can expect when you come to Kawasaki with your brand new ER-6N or Ninja 650N after 3-years????

Edited by Richard-BKK
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But Richard you mention sold 3 years ago. Ok they might have had them available BUT they were all built over 6 years ago. As in clearing stock. And NO shops were selling 2t bikes then. Still not good that the part is not available but i hope that puts it into some perspective.  :rolleyes:

As a matter of fact if you want a KRR-150 i think my local former Kawasaki dealer still has one in stock (maybe 2) at least they did 18mths ago. and then they still wanted list (72,000b)

suffice it to say i didn't buy it  :D

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Wow just looked in the general manual thing I have for a KRR and it says B9ES is stock and B8ES is for colder climates or slow running, but shouldn't be used for high speed running. I definitely need the B9ES. I've currently got the 8 plus there is a "P" in the middle of it too. :P This could be the issue, not the electronics, because I do drive it hard.

Edited by lennya12threh
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http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/ngkjpg.htm

In Thailand a '9'; in cooler climes an '8'. Try an avoid an R (resistive); this reduces RF noise at a slight loss in performance. Try gapping it 0.6/7/8mm to see which is overall the best gap (write this down when you figure it out so you don't forget). The parts manual should tell you the 'official' recommended plug.

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Well i did get the right plug based on the manual, fit in, a B9ES, and it seems to run a lot better and I didn't really notice the dying feeling that was present before when using the BP8ES. Seems a lot better and I'm currently getting the exhaust ports enlarged, and the pipe re-done and fitted to get some extra thrills out of it.

If I still notice an issue I will change the ignition coil setup. Apparently the ignition generator under the stator cover is not "order able," but the other part that (circuit wise) is in between the spark plug and ignition coil is replaceable with a genuine part and they guy said this could be the issue as well, but you never know...

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Well i did get the right plug based on the manual, fit in, a B9ES, and it seems to run a lot better and I didn't really notice the dying feeling that was present before when using the BP8ES. Seems a lot better and I'm currently getting the exhaust ports enlarged, and the pipe re-done and fitted to get some extra thrills out of it.

If I still notice an issue I will change the ignition coil setup. Apparently the ignition generator under the stator cover is not "order able," but the other part that (circuit wise) is in between the spark plug and ignition coil is replaceable with a genuine part and they guy said this could be the issue as well, but you never know...

Amazing Lenny. You haven't sorted out the problem you originally asked about and there you go possibly causing more. I give up. Good luck mate. I think you need it rolleyes.gif

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Well what I was noticing before seems to have disappeared with the new spark plug and it's fully understandable. Before I had a hot spark plug for cold climates or easy driving that said "do not drive fast or hard with this plug" in the manual. So after driving for 5-10 minutes it lost it's power and felt shaky. Now with the new plug I took it out the other day for like 30 minutes and was ripping through power bands at every possible occasion. Even after 20 minutes it hit an amazing power band in 2nd and third and didn't wine like it used to before hitting the band if going WOT from a lower rpm. Still feels lacking a bit but quite powerful and I think it could be from the exhaust, which wasn't done very good when I got it cleaned out last time. There is also a minor leak where the exhaust attaches to the engine head and where the silver tip goes on. Plus it's ugly as fuc_k where the last guy opened up the big black part to clean it out and I don't think it was closed up very well.

The guys shop that I found has a little power-machine in there every other day. Some little Honda LS or Dash thats been bored to 160 or had it's ports enlarged and a custom pipe that he makes in the back. They all look good and sound good when they drive off and it seems it has a lot of wealthy "dekwan" customers.

BTW I am still planning to change up the ignition system and the two seals seem ok as the oil level has remained the same for two months and on the generator side there are no leaks.

Just defending my situation, but thanks for the good luck. I still want it! :D

Edited by lennya12threh
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ok good to see your still on top of it. One thing to think about. The Thai boy racers tend to set their bikes up for the drag racing. So you need to make sure that the mech knows you want it good at all speedsand revs cos its a pain in the arse otherwise.

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Well he said i might want to change the sprocket, and if I only changed the rear one it would only be about 200 baht. I believe porting it larger and having him re-doing the pipe (not modifying the bends or angles) just re-lining it / sealing it wouldn't effect a specific rpm but add to the general output.

Messing with the sprockets on the other hand might give it a lot more acceleration and less high speed.. I'll probably change it a bit because I don't think I'll ever want to hit 180 on a bike like this anyways, but could always go for some extra thrills from 0-120. Currently the powerbands of 2nd and 3rd gear are very long and fun, but not really lacking power. I could get a bit faster acceleration and hence shorter gears. Would be more exciting.

One thing for sure is am having trouble convincing my wife to let us spend this money on the bike. We are planing on packing and going to Canada and selling everything, but I still need some thrills while we wait here and it isn't too expensive for a little one like this.

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Oil in the 2stroke only lubes the gears/clutch. The 2stroke oil lubes the cylinder; hence why you should worry if there is no smoke coming out of the exhaust (no_smoke=no_oil=no_lubing=stuck_piston=stop_quickly=over_handle_bars_on_the_floor=ambulance=hospital). On a 2stroke always be ready to pull in the clutch if the piston seizes!!! Happened to me once; sudden silence and I pulled in the clutch pronto.

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Well i did get the right plug based on the manual, fit in, a B9ES, and it seems to run a lot better and I didn't really notice the dying feeling that was present before when using the BP8ES. Seems a lot better and I'm currently getting the exhaust ports enlarged, and the pipe re-done and fitted to get some extra thrills out of it.

If I still notice an issue I will change the ignition coil setup. Apparently the ignition generator under the stator cover is not "order able," but the other part that (circuit wise) is in between the spark plug and ignition coil is replaceable with a genuine part and they guy said this could be the issue as well, but you never know...

whistling.gif You're welcome. Did that fact I'm older than your dad stop you coming over. never mind. Conversation may have been a bit short.laugh.gif

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Hey VocalNeal. No your age had nothing to do with it. :D Actually on Sunday there was a lot of work to do so I didn't make it. On Monday or Tuesday I was meaning to just make a random stop by to say a surprise hello but never got around to it. Had a fight with the lady on Monday and then Tuesday I left the bike at the mechanic shop.

Just got the bike back today after having the pipe re-done and the exhaust ports in the engine head enlarged, and now it sounds fuc_king wicked and has much more midrange rpm power. I never hit the power band yet after the adjustments because I only had a 3 minute drive home from the shop. I'm going to take it out tonight and have some fun to test it out.

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Hey VocalNeal. No your age had nothing to do with it. :D Actually on Sunday there was a lot of work to do so I didn't make it. On Monday or Tuesday I was meaning to just make a random stop by to say a surprise hello but never got around to it. Had a fight with the lady on Monday and then Tuesday I left the bike at the mechanic shop.

Just got the bike back today after having the pipe re-done and the exhaust ports in the engine head enlarged, and now it sounds fuc_king wicked and has much more midrange rpm power. I never hit the power band yet after the adjustments because I only had a 3 minute drive home from the shop. I'm going to take it out tonight and have some fun to test it out.

Tomorrow's Lenny thread will be "took the bike for a thrash and it started making funny noises. As i was slowing down it locked the back wheel...and now will not start....... What's wrong biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

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Haha! Well that's not what happened at all. Just got back from a little spin. Well for one, it's so fuc_king loud when you open it up, even though it has the normal exhaust on it, just re-lined. It definitely doesn't stall before the power band and has more grunt at mid rpms and is much smoother than before. It feels like it breathes, and the mid rpm power increase is very noticeable, though the power band didn't seem to change much. I guess all he did do was enlarge the exhaust ports, though it did help a lot.

But ONE THING. No it didn't seize but it now gets quite hot after opening it up a couple times. Enlarging the exhaust ports will make it run much hotter? Maybe I need to try a colder spark plug for a first-thought action. The guy did mention one other bike he "did up" from 125cc to 160cc and had the ports enlarged was using a 10 or 11(plug number, eg. B9es) or something like that rather than an 8 or a 9.

I'm assuming a colder spark plug will cause the engine to run cooler.

Tell me your thoughts guys.

Edited by lennya12threh
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Also, I noticed that after it got hot the performance would decrease, similar to before when I had the 8 and changed to a 9, seeming to help a lot.

Another thought to add. Enlarging the exhaust ports would be similar to opening the power valve, so it may make the power band less noticeable, but I'm not sure if I'm thinking of this correctly. This could be why the the mid range grunt increase is very noticeable but the power band didn't seem to change.

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