^&^^ Sounds like the over head cam set up on VW's and past Porsche's (watercooled), the older models have shims of varying thickness for adjustment cradled in the top cam follower cup and the new ones you just replace the entire follower cup to varying thicknesses as the top is no longer a separate piece. Personally I liked the old style it was quite easy to do with the cam in and check your adjustment manually, now it's a pain, no way to do it without taking the cam out and then re-installing it to check.

Yep, from what l have read the only way, which is crap.

Imagine installing/buying an over-sized lifter, torquing it all down to re-check and it's still out, WITH 8 of 'em.

NO shims on this engine.

It's the same same but different. First you check the valve lash on all the valves. Note the numbers on a piece of paper. Then remove the cam. Then note the number stamped on the follwer cups. Do a calculation with your calculator to check if you can change the cups between the valves that are out of specs. If lucky, you don't have to buy new ones.

^&^^ Sounds like the over head cam set up on VW's and past Porsche's (watercooled), the older models have shims of varying thickness for adjustment cradled in the top cam follower cup and the new ones you just replace the entire follower cup to varying thicknesses as the top is no longer a separate piece. Personally I liked the old style it was quite easy to do with the cam in and check your adjustment manually, now it's a pain, no way to do it without taking the cam out and then re-installing it to check.

Yep, from what l have read the only way, which is crap.

Imagine installing/buying an over-sized lifter, torquing it all down to re-check and it's still out, WITH 8 of 'em.

NO shims on this engine.

It's the same same but different. First you check the valve lash on all the valves. Note the numbers on a piece of paper. Then remove the cam. Then note the number stamped on the follwer cups. Do a calculation with your calculator to check if you can change the cups between the valves that are out of specs. If lucky, you don't have to buy new ones.

I knoooooooooooooooooow that but it is a crap setup and your theory is very cuddly but it doesn't always work out that way, does it.

It's the same with shims, unless you have a stockpile of them with varying thicknesses.

^&^^ Sounds like the over head cam set up on VW's and past Porsche's (watercooled), the older models have shims of varying thickness for adjustment cradled in the top cam follower cup and the new ones you just replace the entire follower cup to varying thicknesses as the top is no longer a separate piece. Personally I liked the old style it was quite easy to do with the cam in and check your adjustment manually, now it's a pain, no way to do it without taking the cam out and then re-installing it to check.

Yep, from what l have read the only way, which is crap.

Imagine installing/buying an over-sized lifter, torquing it all down to re-check and it's still out, WITH 8 of 'em.

NO shims on this engine.

Memories of my old jag.

^&^^ Sounds like the over head cam set up on VW's and past Porsche's (watercooled), the older models have shims of varying thickness for adjustment cradled in the top cam follower cup and the new ones you just replace the entire follower cup to varying thicknesses as the top is no longer a separate piece. Personally I liked the old style it was quite easy to do with the cam in and check your adjustment manually, now it's a pain, no way to do it without taking the cam out and then re-installing it to check.

Yep, from what l have read the only way, which is crap.

Imagine installing/buying an over-sized lifter, torquing it all down to re-check and it's still out, WITH 8 of 'em.

NO shims on this engine.

It's the same same but different. First you check the valve lash on all the valves. Note the numbers on a piece of paper. Then remove the cam. Then note the number stamped on the follwer cups. Do a calculation with your calculator to check if you can change the cups between the valves that are out of specs. If lucky, you don't have to buy new ones.

Like I said.......... "a hemorrhoid"! errrr "a pain"!....

Gotta love the pushrod engines.

^&^^ Sounds like the over head cam set up on VW's and past Porsche's (watercooled), the older models have shims of varying thickness for adjustment cradled in the top cam follower cup and the new ones you just replace the entire follower cup to varying thicknesses as the top is no longer a separate piece. Personally I liked the old style it was quite easy to do with the cam in and check your adjustment manually, now it's a pain, no way to do it without taking the cam out and then re-installing it to check.

Yep, from what l have read the only way, which is crap.

Imagine installing/buying an over-sized lifter, torquing it all down to re-check and it's still out, WITH 8 of 'em.

NO shims on this engine.

It's the same same but different. First you check the valve lash on all the valves. Note the numbers on a piece of paper. Then remove the cam. Then note the number stamped on the follwer cups. Do a calculation with your calculator to check if you can change the cups between the valves that are out of specs. If lucky, you don't have to buy new ones.

this is of course outdated by eons. SHIMS is what you are referring to. hydraulic lifters replaced them as we entered the dark ages. no hydraulic lifter system has shims. reminds me of 1970 Rovers not 2011 cars.

TommyDee, I thought we where talking solid lifters here.

^&^^ Sounds like the over head cam set up on VW's and past Porsche's (watercooled), the older models have shims of varying thickness for adjustment cradled in the top cam follower cup and the new ones you just replace the entire follower cup to varying thicknesses as the top is no longer a separate piece. Personally I liked the old style it was quite easy to do with the cam in and check your adjustment manually, now it's a pain, no way to do it without taking the cam out and then re-installing it to check.

Yep, from what l have read the only way, which is crap.

Imagine installing/buying an over-sized lifter, torquing it all down to re-check and it's still out, WITH 8 of 'em.

NO shims on this engine.

Memories of my old jag.

Yep, I think Alfa's also had the same set up too.

TommyDee, I thought we where talking solid lifters here.

Yep which are still commonly used and not "the dark ages" yet..

^&^^ Sounds like the over head cam set up on VW's and past Porsche's (watercooled), the older models have shims of varying thickness for adjustment cradled in the top cam follower cup and the new ones you just replace the entire follower cup to varying thicknesses as the top is no longer a separate piece. Personally I liked the old style it was quite easy to do with the cam in and check your adjustment manually, now it's a pain, no way to do it without taking the cam out and then re-installing it to check.

Yep, from what l have read the only way, which is crap.

Imagine installing/buying an over-sized lifter, torquing it all down to re-check and it's still out, WITH 8 of 'em.

NO shims on this engine.

Memories of my old jag.

Yep, I think Alfa's also had the same set up too.

Definitely not adjustable, unless you replace a lifter.

The guy l read adjusted them didn't, he checked the clearances and all were within the recommended tolerance measurement.

Within an inch.

Within an inch.

One time a changed oil on my Wave, I asked the mechanic if he had a feeler gauge so he could check the valves. No have was the answere, and he did it by just by rocking the rocker arm up and down. "Now Ok" he said. Needless to say, I bought a feeler gauge the next day and did it myself.

^&^^ Sounds like the over head cam set up on VW's and past Porsche's (watercooled), the older models have shims of varying thickness for adjustment cradled in the top cam follower cup and the new ones you just replace the entire follower cup to varying thicknesses as the top is no longer a separate piece. Personally I liked the old style it was quite easy to do with the cam in and check your adjustment manually, now it's a pain, no way to do it without taking the cam out and then re-installing it to check.

Yep, from what l have read the only way, which is crap.

Imagine installing/buying an over-sized lifter, torquing it all down to re-check and it's still out, WITH 8 of 'em.

NO shims on this engine.

It's the same same but different. First you check the valve lash on all the valves. Note the numbers on a piece of paper. Then remove the cam. Then note the number stamped on the follwer cups. Do a calculation with your calculator to check if you can change the cups between the valves that are out of specs. If lucky, you don't have to buy new ones.

So right !!! All the checking is done before dismantling, do your sums, fit the correct size cam follower cup or shims to what is available for the engine spec, there there are some tolerances in calculations, been there, done it, got the ' T ' shirt on a Volvo and that model you had to calculate the nearest shim size available.

Within an inch.

One time a changed oil on my Wave, I asked the mechanic if he had a feeler gauge so he could check the valves. No have was the answere, and he did it by just by rocking the rocker arm up and down. "Now Ok" he said. Needless to say, I bought a feeler gauge the next day and did it myself.

A Wave.?. Bout time they replaced the Yaris. When will they be in Toyo Showrooms.?.