Toyota V8 Exhaust Pipes Length/Size

[melvinmelvin]

Wow, not bad. Everything put together, cabling sorted out, a few new bits and pieces here and there. The engine started RIGHT AWAY and ran smoothly. Happy! Now, have to sort out the boat, repair or build a new one. Probably build a new one.

Just read what happened. That sure sucks. Glad you are OK.

I hope you will able to fix this right so it does not happen again.

Watching twin turbo Nissan VH45 V8 boat vids lately. So awesome.

Shit, sure would like an engine like that Nissan job. You find them in Bang Plii?

Have ordered a new boat now.

Hopefully same shit will not happen again, I am not sure though.

The Thai boat builders have very limited knowledge about protecting wood from becoming rotten due to water ingress.

Will see.

----

Yes, thanks, I am also reasonably pleased that I am still around, That was a very very close call for me.

[melvinmelvin]

right,

new boat ordered, will be built in March/April

will be 10,05 + meters long (to avoid problems with 8 cylinders and government regulations)

max beam will be 1.70 meters (chap refuses to build wider)

the boat will be built in hardwood this time (mai takiang)

the bottom will be 10 mm plywood, am now searching for marine plywood so I will not have to change the bottom every 2 years

(chap refuses to build bottom with hardwood)

(refusal to build wider than 1.7 meters I am not sure about, my Thai ain't good enough to really grasp the reason)

(refusal to build hardwood bottom:

the chap claims its no good, the boards will cfrack he says

he showed me a katoey (a special boat type) he had in his shed, rightly enough the bottom boards were all cracked in the longitudinal direction)

(shit, I hate plywood bottoms)

[transam]

right,

new boat ordered, will be built in March/April

will be 10,05 + meters long (to avoid problems with 8 cylinders and government regulations)

max beam will be 1.70 meters (chap refuses to build wider)

the boat will be built in hardwood this time (mai takiang)

the bottom will be 10 mm plywood, am now searching for marine plywood so I will not have to change the bottom every 2 years

(chap refuses to build bottom with hardwood)

(refusal to build wider than 1.7 meters I am not sure about, my Thai ain't good enough to really grasp the reason)

(refusal to build hardwood bottom:

the chap claims its no good, the boards will cfrack he says

he showed me a katoey (a special boat type) he had in his shed, rightly enough the bottom boards were all cracked in the longitudinal direction)

(shit, I hate plywood bottoms)

Me too,

[cliveshep]

Why don't you build a grp boat using "stitch and glue" method? Your longtails don't have any compound curves as far as I can see, so you could get some flat polyester grp panels laid up, say a total of a 10 ounce layup for the bottom, maybe a bit less on the sides. Cut the panels, butt them up, drill holes and tie them with copper wire. Then tape and fill the joins in epoxy and woven roving. Add timber stiffeners to your hull, glass them in with polyester resin and roving or bi-directional cloth. That way you get a fully waterproof hull, rot free and leak free.What simple curves there are are easy to do much as you would fix plywood to a curve.

GRP does not leak as such but if the surface coat is abraded to expose fibres moisture will get into the layup to a degree. However, as the water won't freeze this is unlikely to lead to issues of delamination. Polyester is a cheaper layup than epoxy, just use epoxy for the joins. Epoxy bonds to polyester, the reverse is not so.

Finish off by applying a decent 2-pack paint system as you cannot gel-coat successflluy on top, apart from it running all over the place it won't cure properly exposed.

[melvinmelvin]

The design has some curved panels that are double-curves (god knows what that is called in English, I mean curved panels in which you cannot draw a straight line).

Haven't got a place for building in GRP. Cleanliness and ventialtion needed.

Building in GRP is a dirty job, lots of poison around, don't fancy that.'

GRP absorbs water, all day and every day, but not much though.

Aluminium could be an alternative though.

More and more GRP boats can bee seen in the Chao Praya delta/basin. Water ingress I would guess is a relatively small problem.

It seems to me that most GRP boat owners take the boat out of the water every day after use.

[transam]

The design has some curved panels that are double-curves (god knows what that is called in English, I mean curved panels in which you cannot draw a straight line).

Haven't got a place for building in GRP. Cleanliness and ventialtion needed.

Building in GRP is a dirty job, lots of poison around, don't fancy that.'

GRP absorbs water, all day and every day, but not much though.

Aluminium could be an alternative though.

More and more GRP boats can bee seen in the Chao Praya delta/basin. Water ingress I would guess is a relatively small problem.

It seems to me that most GRP boat owners take the boat out of the water every day after use.

I thought the fiber glass gel coat sealed stuff..

[cliveshep]

Curves in two planes are called "compound curves" in English

The gel coat is only polyester resin with pigment and a thickening agent added. The resin is the waterproof element, the glass fibre strands which are tiny take in water from their exposed ends by capilliary attraction, moisture travelling up between the semi-microscopic filaments that compose the strands.

GRP boats are expensive and attractive to theives, leaving them afloat could be an irresistable temptation.

If you have access to marine grade aluminium sheet and tube and have a bending machine for the tube and access to a tig welded aluminium would be a fairly good choice. Just don't bolt other metals to it unless you electrically isolate them or you could have a disolving boat producing 3 volts. Any metal close to aluminium in the galvanic table would mix safely. Unfortunately that doesn't mean stainless steel.

[melvinmelvin]

The design has some curved panels that are double-curves (god knows what that is called in English, I mean curved panels in which you cannot draw a straight line).

Haven't got a place for building in GRP. Cleanliness and ventialtion needed.

Building in GRP is a dirty job, lots of poison around, don't fancy that.'

GRP absorbs water, all day and every day, but not much though.

Aluminium could be an alternative though.

More and more GRP boats can bee seen in the Chao Praya delta/basin. Water ingress I would guess is a relatively small problem.

It seems to me that most GRP boat owners take the boat out of the water every day after use.

I thought the fiber glass gel coat sealed stuff..

it does, but not 100%, even epoxy drinks some water, but much much less than gel coated GRP

where I originate from GRP boats are numerous,

in the east country they are normally pulled out of the sea some time late september or in october

put back in during april

this time on dryland suffices for most of the water in the GRP to dry out

in the west country the sea temp is higher, people tend to have the boats in the sea year round, a quick up in spring time for rubbing/painting/maintenance

then out again

these boats get heavier and heavier year by year

some people recommend to pull 'em out and let then dry out every 3 years or so, takes about 6 months for a full dry out

[melvinmelvin]

Curves in two planes are called "compound curves" in English

The gel coat is only polyester resin with pigment and a thickening agent added. The resin is the waterproof element, the glass fibre strands which are tiny take in water from their exposed ends by capilliary attraction, moisture travelling up between the semi-microscopic filaments that compose the strands.

GRP boats are expensive and attractive to theives, leaving them afloat could be an irresistable temptation.

If you have access to marine grade aluminium sheet and tube and have a bending machine for the tube and access to a tig welded aluminium would be a fairly good choice. Just don't bolt other metals to it unless you electrically isolate them or you could have a disolving boat producing 3 volts. Any metal close to aluminium in the galvanic table would mix safely. Unfortunately that doesn't mean stainless steel.

aha, compound curve - thanks, will try and remember that (we call such curves: double curved plane)

my experience is that very high quality steel and aluminium is easy to come by in Bangkok and surroundings, lots of good stuff here

my neighbour can do welding of aluminium, have been thinking a lot about that

last November I got the idea of building an air-boat (those sump things) in aluminium (the thais call them wind boat, ruua lom)

found some good pieces on youtube and shoved my neighbour (who is thai and a keen boater, does some racing),

he found the boats totally uninteresting his eyes went rather quickly back to his Leo

the only time he looked with some interest was when I played a video of an air boat driven by some US chicks in bikinis

anyway; no point in starting a project with someone who thinks the whole idea is just stupid, so there went the airboat

[transam]

My Honda racer had a f/glass tank..............

[canthai55]

he found the boats totally uninteresting his eyes went rather quickly back to his Leo

Show him one of these ...

[melvinmelvin]

Here is a photo of the "start" of the new boat;

This photo was taken monday this week.

You see that the transom is almost ready and clamped down.

The beams for the aft section is placed on the builders rig/jig.

The larger piece of wood in the front is just placed there by me to show where the the two sections of the underwater bodies will be joined.

Next step noe will be bolting the vertical beam sections to the horizontal beams.

Then I would guess the centre stringer.

Then the fundament for the engine carrying beams.

LOA 10.05 meters. Max beam 1.70 meters.

Built in hardwood which the Thais call mai takiang, this just excellent wood for building a boat.

All the beam stuff related to the engine will be in mai teng, which is a lot harder than mai takiang.

Unfortunately the bottom will be 10 mm plywood, pisses me off. Guess you can't win 'em all.

The foredeck will be 5 mm fiber.

All bolts/nuts in marine grade steel.

All screws in stainless, (Thailand doesn't sport self tapping screws in marine grade steel, weird).

I am reasonably convinced that I have a fairly good quality painting scheme for it.

Edited March 25, 2016 by melvinmelvin

[melvinmelvin]

The new boat is under way, checked up on it today after my visit to Nothern Europe.

Transom and skeleton done.

Has started on the outer paneling.

LOA will be 10 m 10 cm

[VocalNeal]

Is that Ko Kret?

[melvinmelvin]

Is that Ko Kret?

Nope,

Its in Klong Oom, when you travel northwards from Tha Naam Non towards Koh Kred,

Klong Oom is off to the west, say 4 kilometers north of Tha Naam Non (the end stop for the Chao Praya Express).

Klong Oom is practically the same as Klong Bangkok Noi, same Klong but called Oom up here.

It enters Chai Praya again in Phra Pin Klao, by the King's boat museum.

[VocalNeal]

We run a lot in the centre of the "peninsula" formed by that.

[EvilDrSomkid]

Sorry I did not see your reply before.

Yes, you can find VH45s in Chiang Khong Bang Na, but are not as common as the 1UZs. They go for about the same.

IMO, their main advantages over the 1UZ are:

- Coil on plug, no distributors with very specific, expensive and hard to find spark plug wires.

- 4.5L, need I say more?

- Rev to 6900 stock.

- for more info: http://www.q45.org/vhpower/info.shtml

[melvinmelvin]

Sorry I did not see your reply before.

Yes, you can find VH45s in Chiang Khong Bang Na, but are not as common as the 1UZs. They go for about the same.

IMO, their main advantages over the 1UZ are:

- Coil on plug, no distributors with very specific, expensive and hard to find spark plug wires.

- 4.5L, need I say more?

- Rev to 6900 stock.

- for more info: http://www.q45.org/vhpower/info.shtml

roughly same price 1UZ seems a pretty good deal - and availabe in Bang Plii is good, guess they can be found in Rangsit as well then

i like the coil on plug bit

not too keen on the high revs though, doesn't go very well with a gearbox with 1:1 ratio

is the torgue (Nm) ample?

I assume they all come with an automatic box,

would have to peel that off and put on a flywheel housing with manuel clutch, could be hard to find a housing that fits

(this is easy with 1UZ/2UZ/3UZ and I assume also 1VD - the flywheel housing and clutch from an Isuzu MBD fits right away,

and then one adds a 4 step gearbox from a small Mazda 6 wheel lorry - done! works well)

if my newbuild turns out successful I might consider importing a 1VD from the US

mai paeng, 50 000 baht CIF Bangkok

Edited April 29, 2016 by melvinmelvin

[melvinmelvin]

The newbuild is progressing, albeit far from the rate I would hope for. Takes time, this is LoS.

Couple of pics taken yesterday follows below.

In between working on my newbuild the builder (Chang) is doing emergency repairs on taxi boats.

Thats OK, after all these taxi guys depend on their boats for a living.

But about time the taxi guys stop wrecking their boats now so that Chang Popp can concentrate om ny piece.

The outer skin is all finished, all beams and the transom all finished. The fundament for the foredeck and most of the side decks are all finished.

The "table" has been started. The athwartships board you see in the middle of the boat is the front board of the table.

The Thais actually call this for table. It serves as a stiffener of the hull and as a separator between driver and pax.

Remaining now: (roughly)

laying the foredeck and the side decks.

Completing the upper boards of the inner skin.

Then the boat will be turned around.

Centre longitudinal and longitudinal stringers will be put in place.

The the bottom itself. And the bottom will be painted.

Then the boat will be turned again.

Then the last bits. The engine fundament. And thats roughly it.

Drilling 6 wholes for bilgewater outlets.

Putting some extra hardwood boards in place to form the footing for the targa.

Lastly the floor boards/panels.

And then the paintjob.

Will be reasonably quick and easy this time around. Very few colours compared to the first time.

[melvinmelvin]

and after the launch I'll take it home (just 1 mile down the klong)

and then lots and lots of work has to be done;

step one will be to arrange for the canopy to be put up, maybe the same piping can be used

or maybe they need to be cut and some small pieces welded in to make the piping wider (the new boat is a bit wider than the old)

and

get the 6 bilge pumps and their 6 float switches and accompanying piping in

and

temporary cabling for the pumps

and

not sure what they're called in English, rubber shock absorbers on the outside of the hull, fenders? bumpers? or whatever

and guess I'll also put in the 4 three inch stainless steel pipes that serves as the fundament for the targa at this stage

then tow to Koh Kred and get the engine and longtail installed, as weel as fuel tank and batteries

a bit of testing, ensuring the fuelsystem is not leaking anywhere, ensuring the gear is working as it should, ensuring thermoswitches, relays

and cooling fans for engine and oil cooler is working

then back home

and then the real work starts

the cabling of everything will take a long time as I will have to produce the steelplates onto which I can screw switches, studs, bus bars, connector boxes etc etc

this stuff cannot be done in advance as I don't know how much space I will have available for this and that before the engine is in the boat

I know it sounds crazy, but even if the boat is more than 10 meters long the available space for screwing things is very scarce

up with instrumentpanel, ignition switch and deadman, battery meters, the ECU, sockets and leads for battery chargers running on shore power

proper cabling of this stuff takes time

all electrical stuff, including relays and switches and power supply for all fans (radiator 2 fans, oil cooler 5 fans) will be kept on the engine itself

right hand side of the cockpit will have all the low amp stuff,

instrumentpanel, battery meters, ignition control, and ECU

but will also have the two big IP67 sockets for both battery chargers (no space on the left hand side)

left hand side will have all the switches and power supply boxes and connector boxes for 6 bilge pumps, 1 emergency water pump for the engine and 1 water pump for wet exhaust,

automatic pump control panels for these 8 pumps,

that side will also have 6 slot cigarette plug panel (10 amp/slot) and the supply and switch for the signalling horn and lastly switches and supply for spots steaming lights

battery selector switches, DVSR, charging control switches, fuses, main studs and bus bars and main switches I hope to be able to place on vertical steel panels

under the engine

wish I could start making this stuff, but the crucial points are the size of the vertical steel panels to be placed under the engine,

so in stead I am enjoying too many beers

below I will put in some photos of the old boat's cockpit;

(trying to illustrate what I'm rambling about above)

above:

the shiny steel plates houses the automatic pump controls for the 8 water pumps

the pink steel panel houses the 6 cigarette lighter sockets, 10 amp each

the grey box is the IP67 socket for the left side battery charger, thus will next be on the right side rather than the left side

all the purple/clear plastic boxes (I have them made in Chinatown, they're in acryllic material) are connector/distribution boxes (water tight)

tricky to see but there are also some switches and fuses there, switches and fuses I hope to be able to move closer to the battery,

onto the vertical steel panels mentioned above

below:

in the centre you will see 2 orange longitudinal beams, this are the basis for the engine fundment

you will also see a lot of switches, studs and bus bars screwed onto these beams, it is a very impractical solution to have all these boxes placed so low,

mistake mistake

what I want to do is to make steel panels (3 mm marine grade stainless) as large as possible, which I will screw onto these two orange beams

and then place the boxes on the these panels, maybe with fuses on the back side of the left panel

these panels will be placed under the engine, hence, I need the mill in the boat before I can estimate maximum size

have the wiring diagrams ready though, for tow different sizes of the panels

above and below,

the right hand side will be simplified somewhat this time around,

the aftmost box/panel contains the ECU, will stay roughly in the same place, hopefully I will manage to fit the loom under the floor boards this time

then comes a biggish purple/clear box, this box has gone will not be used again, was a very bad idea and very expensive and is now in the wastebin

next, the two white covers; those are the two battery meters, will stay, might be moved one section forward

then will come a small panel containing ignition switch and deadman-function

you can spot 2 battery switches, these wil go, will be moved to the engine itself, they control the oil cooler fans

the grey box is the IP67 socket for the charger for the right battery,

will be placed a bit more forward together with a similar socket for the left side battery

all instruments will now be in one steel panel (already done that, along with the accompanying distribution panel, heap of wires, 4/instrument,

the panel will contain 2 large instruments RPM meter and GPS driven speed

some small instruments;

the key ones being; oil pressure, oil temperature, water temperature and gear oil temperature

and then fuel gauge and engine hour-meter

[melvinmelvin]

 

 

 

Some pics from the launch of the new boat.

Last Thursday morning.

 

above lowering

 

under floating

 

 

 

Edited August 8, 2016 by melvinmelvin
text needed

[melvinmelvin]

 

A few pics of the boat after having been towed home.

Tied up by 0950 hours last Thursday morning.

 

Now comes an extremely busy period.

Step one is to have the canopy up and the 6 bilge pumps and floating switches installed.

The support rods for the canopy needs to be changed, all of them cut/bent and welded to fit the width of the new boat.

Takes time.

Pumps and luklois should take a day or two.

 

The the engine can be installed.

 

And then then the cabling and electricity stuff.

 

I have hopes that the engine goes in before the end of the month.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This time I am very pleased that I have ended up with a minimum of colours, the old one had 11 different colours.

The new one; grey, purple, blue, orange and pink.

 

The LOA of this one is more than 10 meters, which hopefully will save me from trouble with my 260 hp engine when I register the boat.

But TIT and we will see.

 

Also need to renew my skipper licence and mechanic ticket.

 

 

 

[EvilDrSomkid]

Looking good.

[melvinmelvin]

 

surprise surprise, I agree

 

I have expectations . . . . .

 

we will see how it turns out

 

[melvinmelvin]

intermediate electrical system put in place

all 6 automatic bilge pumps in operation

 

shore power and tii charge for 1 battery in operation

 

the canopy pipes for the rainy season canopy ar enow set,

they have been sent for polishing

 

when ready ;

 

Next-Canopy up --> engine in

 

then measuring how large vertical steelplates I can place under the engine, in front and on both sides

design the electrical system on these steelplates

have the steelplates made

and then do the permanent wiring/cabling

 

(I'm a sucker for an elaborate electrical supply system)

 

 

[melvinmelvin]

The mill, Toyota 1UZ-FE, installed last Sunday.

 

Below, my mechanic and the engine eagerly awaiting installation.

My mechanic's workshop is on the island Koh Kred in Chao Praya.

 

 

 

[melvinmelvin]

 

Installed.

 

 

 

[melvinmelvin]

 

And the following beers after tied up at home.

 

 

 

[EvilDrSomkid]

Are you Danish?

[melvinmelvin]

3 hours ago, EvilDrSomkid said:

Are you Danish?

 

Nope, can't say I am.

 

But I do enjoy the odd Gammel Dansk very much.