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Floods, Waste, & Disease


bitterbatter

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A Beautiful Solution to an Ugly Situation

(Someone please translate to Thai and pass this on to the proper Authorities and/or the people)

Rooftop Farming: Garbage and Excrement technology in cities are out-dated systems. Separate the food from the real trash, create a composting area. This will attract rats to an your roof, and their urine can either be captured in the runoff or the compost container itself. A good composting system generates a lot of heat with will kill any pathogens within any excrement or urine.

vertigo.jpg

Some Great examples and resources for Rooftop and Vertical Farming integration for Cities

http://thinkprogress...ming-the-plant/

www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roof_garden

http://journeytoforever.org/garden_con.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roof_garden

http://www.cityfarmer.org/subrooftops.html

Another big issue is Septic Tanks. people are continuing to use toilets during this crisis and I guarantee that septic systems are leaking into the floodwater. Flush toilets increase the potential for pathogens and disease, because by mixing so much water with the crap, then the natural self heating chemical reaction that could kill any pathogens is cooled down. The addition of constant floodwater guarantees this.

The alternative solution to toilets?

This is a huge huge problem in modern city designs that isn't talked about. But We really must stop being so terrified of our own Sh#t. The solution may sound disgusting, but the results are actually beautiful, and if handled right, it really isn't that gross. I know that this probably won't happen, but the solution is to add it to the composting. Using bucket with lids , a dry toilet can be created. Keep separate your urine from the poo and this will decrease the smell dramatically. have some leaves, or other green mulch to add on top when you are finished. Urine contains far less pathogens, and can be flushed down toilets with far less risk. If you are scared of the soil created from composting human crap, use this particular dirt created for your ornamental plants and trees, instead of your food garden. This is surely a far worse problem then the rat urine problem

Here is how to compost with simple garbage cans: ( copied from http://thinkprogress...ming-the-plant/)

Garbage can with airstack If you're using a commercial garbage can, make sure it has a minimum base diameter of 38 centimetres (15 inches). If making your own square container, its base should be a minimum of 1 metres sq. (1.25 yards sq.). Both types of composter require an unobstructed height of 85 to 105 cm (34 to 42 in). Drainage There should be a minimum of 4 holes, 5 cm (2 in) apart, in the bottom of the container. Start your compost pile 7 to 15 cm (3 to 6 in) up from the bottom of the bin to allow for sufficient air circulation and drainage. This can be done by building a "false bottom".

Place a heavy gauge screen (1/2 inch hardware cloth) on top of blocks placed inside the unit. Add a 1/2-cm (1/4-in) layer of newspaper to absorb liquid. You can also use a layer of sticks and twigs.

Remember to always keep the drain holes clear of obstructions. Note: Hardware cloth is galvanized wire mesh in various sizes and is available at most hardware stores. Aeration You will also need an "airstack" of approximately 12 cm (5 in) in diameter, leading from the false bottom up through the top of the container.

Commercial airstacks can be purchased at gardening centres or you can create your own with a piece of plastic plumber's pipe or weeping tile. There should be holes drilled all the way down the sides of the pipe or tile. A roll of hardware cloth or a bundle of sticks can also be placed in the centre of the container as an alternative. A hole must be cut in the lid of the composter for the airstack to fit through. It should be a snug fit to help prevent insects and other pests from entering your composter.

For extra protection from pests cap the airstack with some fine mesh. Set-up Place your composter in a sunny area if possible. To ensure there is enough air circulation around the composter, set it approximately 30 cm (12 in) away from any walls. Also make sure the container is raised 5 to 10 cm (2 to 4 in) above the ground and a tray is placed underneath to catch any liquid that may drain out.

Adding materials You can use the same materials for apartment composting as you would for regular outdoor composting (see factsheet entitled Materials to Compost for a detailed list). Although this type of composting can accommodate yard waste, it is primarily for household kitchen and plant waste. All materials should be as small as possible and well-mixed (use a variety of materials).

When putting in fresh kitchen waste always bury the food into the pile and add some leaves or soil on top to help control insects and odours.

Helpful hints

* For every 13 cm (5 in) of organic material, add 2.5 cm (1 in) of garden soil or finished compost.

* The pile should always be as moist as a well-wrung sponge.

* It is a good idea to stockpile some fall leaves to add to your pile all year round.

* Make sure your container has a tight-fitting lid.

Vermicomposting Vermicomposting, or composting with worms, is another way for apartment dwellers to compost.

A worm bin can be set up indoors or can be insulated to stay outside on a balcony. Community composting By getting together with other residents and staff in your building or community garden, it is possible to establish a single backyard composter or a larger 3-bin composter on your grounds. If you have a rooftop, consider placing a composting unit there. Some Great examples of Rooftop and Vertical Farming integration for Cities

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