How often do you take Tolerance Break. Is it even worth it Lol.

[motorcrazy]

Looks like it needs a new rear cog, which probably means it needs a new chain to fit and the front sprocket while your at it. Other than that, looks fine. Does the rear cog rattle around? Might need new bushes too. Does the rc valve move when you rev it up? Wait until you find all the work arounds Oh well gives you something to play with, right?

it whil not cog around but the thoots are worming out ,wy the thaise use the hammer hehehehe.

and the rear bushes it wil cost 2400 bhat by honda dealer,here by the club ahndmaded 800 bhat

rc valve not move,problem 1 cdi not work, ore the rc valve conector.

[Semper]

Yes comes with a green book but the owner.did.now paid road tax for sometimes I called mochit transport office they said I need to maybe re register the bike ot something and the road tax might need to pay around 2000baht the previous owner dis not pay for so long time

I've heard that if the tax has not been paid for 3 (or was it 5) years, the bike would be automatically unregistered.

Any idea howm much will be cost for the re register of green book ?

According to what I heard 1K+, if you have the green book and frame/ engine numbers match with the numbers in the book.

[MaiChai]

You can buy copy bushes for the rear cog. I think the Honda ones are 130 baht each while the copy ones are about 30 baht each. The copy ones don't last as long as the originals BUT they are considerably cheaper. If you only come to Thailand 3 months a year or don't do daily commutes then, I would go for the copy ones. They are difficult to get out; I drilled out the rubber and when thats out you can bend out the metal part. When you put the new ones in, grease them before they go in so that when you next remove them, it will be easier. While your at it, order a new nut for the proarm.

Ah yes, getting the proarm nut off... Well this is how I did it: I tried a socket, but could not hold it in place. Get yourself a frickin big 36mm ring spanner. You can get one from Worachak for about 300 baht. Unlock the nut so it will unscrew. Get someone (big) to sit on the bike and make the front and rear brakes. Get a largish club hammer. Put the ring of the spanner on the nut. Hold it in place with your foot. Hit the other end of the spanner with the club hammer anti clockwise. You might have to do it a couple of times, but the force will unlock the nut.

You can test the servo motor; the procedure is in the shop manual. First check the cables and if the value moves manually. The servo motor also has a 5k potentiometer so it can work out its position. I have heard you can use servo motors they use in remote control cars to fix NSR servo motors. I have a mate know knows a bit more about this. I know that parts inside the servo come from Mitsubishi.

I just posted on another thread that I found cdi and servo motor copy parts at lekcdi.com; I sent them an email to enquire about prices. Might try their cdi out.

Edited February 6, 2012 by MaiChai

[motorcrazy]

You can buy copy bushes for the rear cog. I think the Honda ones are 130 baht each while the copy ones are about 30 baht each. The copy ones don't last as long as the originals BUT they are considerably cheaper. If you only come to Thailand 3 months a year or don't do daily commutes then, I would go for the copy ones. They are difficult to get out; I drilled out the rubber and when thats out you can bend out the metal part. When you put the new ones in, grease them before they go in so that when you next remove them, it will be easier. While your at it, order a new nut for the proarm.

Ah yes, getting the proarm nut off... Well this is how I did it: I tried a socket, but could not hold it in place. Get yourself a frickin big 36mm ring spanner. You can get one from Worachak for about 300 baht. Unlock the nut so it will unscrew. Get someone (big) to sit on the bike and make the front and rear brakes. Get a largish club hammer. Put the ring of the spanner on the nut. Hold it in place with your foot. Hit the other end of the spanner with the club hammer anti clockwise. You might have to do it a couple of times, but the force will unlock the nut.

You can test the servo motor; the procedure is in the shop manual. First check the cables and if the value moves manually. The servo motor also has a 5k potentiometer so it can work out its position. I have heard you can use servo motors they use in remote control cars to fix NSR servo motors. I have a mate know knows a bit more about this. I know that parts inside the servo come from Mitsubishi.

I just posted on another thread that I found cdi and servo motor copy parts at lekcdi.com; I sent them an email to enquire about prices. Might try their cdi out.

If you need some cdi i have cdi for the sp,and nrr,tzm 1000 bhat

[KRS1]

You can buy copy bushes for the rear cog. I think the Honda ones are 130 baht each while the copy ones are about 30 baht each. The copy ones don't last as long as the originals BUT they are considerably cheaper. If you only come to Thailand 3 months a year or don't do daily commutes then, I would go for the copy ones. They are difficult to get out; I drilled out the rubber and when thats out you can bend out the metal part. When you put the new ones in, grease them before they go in so that when you next remove them, it will be easier. While your at it, order a new nut for the proarm.

Ah yes, getting the proarm nut off... Well this is how I did it: I tried a socket, but could not hold it in place. Get yourself a frickin big 36mm ring spanner. You can get one from Worachak for about 300 baht. Unlock the nut so it will unscrew. Get someone (big) to sit on the bike and make the front and rear brakes. Get a largish club hammer. Put the ring of the spanner on the nut. Hold it in place with your foot. Hit the other end of the spanner with the club hammer anti clockwise. You might have to do it a couple of times, but the force will unlock the nut.

You can test the servo motor; the procedure is in the shop manual. First check the cables and if the value moves manually. The servo motor also has a 5k potentiometer so it can work out its position. I have heard you can use servo motors they use in remote control cars to fix NSR servo motors. I have a mate know knows a bit more about this. I know that parts inside the servo come from Mitsubishi.

I just posted on another thread that I found cdi and servo motor copy parts at lekcdi.com; I sent them an email to enquire about prices. Might try their cdi out.

I just stick the wrench on and kick it swiftly. Works like a charm. Edited February 7, 2012 by KRS1

[kiske]

Actually, the fairings can be picked up for around 1000Baht, if you are happy to buy second hand.

As most, have said. There are parts of the bike that can be expensive. Most notably the RC-Valve, Cylinder, and Pro-arm.

I'd personally, get rid of the proarm and put something lighter on.

Also, get rid of the exhaust, as it's heavy as fuc_k, and contains a catalytic converter, which adds further weight and reduces power.

The cylinders for the SP model are VERY expensive (9-13k) and as such, alot of bikes were fitted with cylinders from the RR/RRW model, either original nikasil or copies. This will reduce the power by a substantial amount, due to the completely different ports (most noticably the exhaust), radically changing the power.

You got a pretty good deal, regardless. As you could break it down and turn a profit. The Proarm, generally sells for 6k with wheel/shock. The forks 2k ish - etc. etc.

You could actually, (if you felt like a little bit of modification) put on CBR150r 2011 fairings on the NSR, as the bikes share the same frame. I was quoted about 6k for the complete fairing set from Honda.

[MaiChai]

Ah, but you know how nuts that have not been removed for a long time are difficult to come apart?

Once got a new insert put in an NSR-R cylinder. Cost 1500 baht, considerably cheaper than an original or a new cylinder of any NSR variant. New insert is the cheap fix. Also it came back with a huge exhaust port! For the price of an SP cylinder I would prefer to buy another bike to play with...

Once saw a cbr150 with an SP proarm on it. Maybe the owner upgraded and decided to keep the proarm?

You can change lots of parts, but the wise miser in me says its an old bike and is it worth spending alot of money on it?

You often see SPs split up for parts on mocyc.com; guess there is more money splitting it then selling as a complete bike?

[KRS1]

I just posted on another thread that I found cdi and servo motor copy parts at lekcdi.com; I sent them an email to enquire about prices. Might try their cdi out.

They can make modified cdi's too, but you have to ask them for it. They ran about 500 baht the last time i ordered a stock replacement about 4 years ago for a TZM. The bike will rev smoother and quicker than stock, good stuff from Lek. Falling behind the times though with fuel injection. In the past they've always used higher grade components than API. Lek uses over rated caps and FETS with low Rds and ESR values, API likes to heat sink the components and stress the duty cycles instead.

[motorcrazy]

Actually, the fairings can be picked up for around 1000Baht, if you are happy to buy second hand.

As most, have said. There are parts of the bike that can be expensive. Most notably the RC-Valve, Cylinder, and Pro-arm.

I'd personally, get rid of the proarm and put something lighter on.

Also, get rid of the exhaust, as it's heavy as fuc_k, and contains a catalytic converter, which adds further weight and reduces power.

The cylinders for the SP model are VERY expensive (9-13k) and as such, alot of bikes were fitted with cylinders from the RR/RRW model, either original nikasil or copies. This will reduce the power by a substantial amount, due to the completely different ports (most noticably the exhaust), radically changing the power.

You got a pretty good deal, regardless. As you could break it down and turn a profit. The Proarm, generally sells for 6k with wheel/shock. The forks 2k ish - etc. etc.

You could actually, (if you felt like a little bit of modification) put on CBR150r 2011 fairings on the NSR, as the bikes share the same frame. I was quoted about 6k for the complete fairing set from Honda.

The cbr its smaller than the honda nsr ,its wil never good fit on the bike.

What you can do its like this,You can put a compleet faring set from a Yamaha R6 that wil fit.

I try to ghet a picture from the club i stay here in korat, the building now the R6 on the honda sp.

[kiske]

Actually, the new cbr150r uses the same frame as the nsr, as well as the LS and older cbr models. The new cbr fairing is larger than the nsr, so will fit, you would just need to build some brackets as the mounting holes differ.

I matched some fairing up on mine a month ago, and it would fit nicely, including the seat fairing (the subframe looks the same) It's just the tank which would differ, the cbr's tank is much larger/taller.

[kiske]

I know a guy who put GSXR600 fairing on his nsr, looks nice, but somewhat out of place. Alot of guys use the RC211v fairing that usually get thrown on the CBR400/NC30's - better fit, but the nose can look large.

The RC211v fairing can be had very cheap, too.