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Trip Report For Phnom Penh, Cambodia


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My point is that so much of the American food in PP tends to be that burger, nachos, fries, tex-mex high fat stuff. Because the local cuisine is so bland, you end up spending all your time eating tons of carbohydrates and stodge. Nothing wrong with that now and again, of course - I'm as big a fan of burritos and jalapenos relenos as the next man - but after a week of it I yearn for something fresh and exotic.

Well, I disagree. I've been here in PNH for three days now, and the only time I ate Western food was the only time I ate alone. My Cambodian friends took me to different restaurants for lunch and dinner each time, and I can't say the local food is bad.

It's just that I wouldn't know how to order if I were on my own.

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<snip>

My point is that so much of the American food in PP tends to be that burger, nachos, fries, tex-mex high fat stuff. Because the local cuisine is so bland, you end up spending all your time eating tons of carbohydrates and stodge. Nothing wrong with that now and again, of course - I'm as big a fan of burritos and jalapenos relenos as the next man - but after a week of it I yearn for something fresh and exotic.

Well, I disagree. I've been here in PNH for three days now, and the only time I ate Western food was the only time I ate alone. My Cambodian friends took me to different restaurants for lunch and dinner each time, and I can't say the local food is bad.

It's just that I wouldn't know how to order if I were on my own.

So, Tom what is Cambodian food like? I like Thai food but have no desire to kill my taste buds with cayenne pepper, would I like Cambodian food?

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Well, I disagree. I've been here in PNH for three days now, and the only time I ate Western food was the only time I ate alone. My Cambodian friends took me to different restaurants for lunch and dinner each time, and I can't say the local food is bad.

It's just that I wouldn't know how to order if I were on my own.

So, Tom what is Cambodian food like? I like Thai food but have no desire to kill my taste buds with cayenne pepper, would I like Cambodian food?

I don't know whether you'd like it <g> but I do. It is not hot (spicy) so your taste buds will be OK.

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Yes, and the folks you go there don't mind spending US$ 3.50 for a beer. I have an American customer who always wants to have lunch with me at the FCC, because the (Western) food is so good there.

I myself enjoy the atmosphere and the view.

I don't mind it to the point of not going, as I pointed out, it's just that the place itself has become kind of a farce and that bugs me. The $3.50 beers are cashing in on the fake allusions to hardy journalsts plying their trade in the UNTAC days and the photojournalism on the walls. It's not and never was some ourpost for journalists or a real FCC, it's just a cool bar and restaurant (and the Western food is not all that good - some is, some isn't, there are much better places around town for the chow). Sort of like Freebird's is now. Place looks like a freaking Chili's inside.

Well, I disagree. I've been here in PNH for three days now, and the only time I ate Western food was the only time I ate alone. My Cambodian friends took me to different restaurants for lunch and dinner each time, and I can't say the local food is bad.

Yeah, local food in the Philippines is actually bad. Khmer food is just "meh" as has been described (boring, whatever). I don't know a lot of people who live there who hate it and most eat it here and there, but to a man every single local expat I talked to said they find it pretty bland and generally eat some other kind of food (or constantly ask them to make it spicier, etc, mimicking Thai food). That's pretty much what I do. It's just a boring and non-notable cuisine for the most part. Laos and Thai are preferable (Thailand having absorbed and re-marketed Laos food helps Thailand's reputation a lot, heh).

Edited by emilyb
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I lived in Phnom Penh for 6 years and never heard about fake name brand booze. (Unlike India where it's a huge problem.)

The difference is that there are no taxes applied at any point in it's journey to market, and the retailers sell at extremely low profit margins. One of my clients was a large beer manufacturer and when we would go out into the countryside to visit retailers the usual margin on a 24 bottle box of beer was 1000 riel. (25 cents US) This is pretty standard for all retailers there. (A Khmer friend of mine worked as an accountant for a Chinese electronics company. Average profit on a "ghetto blaster" type stereo - 2000 riels, or 50 cents US.)

Cambodian are incredibly adept at getting stuff into the market cheaply and quickly using local channels. In the 90s we would regularly get the new Beaujolais before it was even legally available in France, and at a cheaper price. (No, they were not making fake Beaujolais.)

A lot of the hard booze has spent time sitting in containers on the dock in Singapore.

I know of at least one very famous bar in BKK getting cheap designer booze through Cambodia back in the day.

Edited by koknia
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I lived in Phnom Penh for 6 years and never heard about fake name brand booze. (Unlike India where it's a huge problem.)

The difference is that there are no taxes applied at any point in it's journey to market, and the retailers sell at extremely low profit margins. One of my clients was a large beer manufacturer and when we would go out into the countryside to visit retailers the usual margin on a 24 bottle box of beer was 1000 riel. (25 cents US) This is pretty standard for all retailers there. (A Khmer friend of mine worked as an accountant for a Chinese electronics company. Average profit on a "ghetto blaster" type stereo - 2000 riels, or 50 cents US.)

Cambodian are incredibly adept at getting stuff into the market cheaply and quickly using local channels. In the 90s we would regularly get the new Beaujolais before it was even legally available in France, and at a cheaper price. (No, they were not making fake Beaujolais.)

A lot of the hard booze has spent time sitting in containers on the dock in Singapore.

I know of at least one very famous bar in BKK getting cheap designer booze through Cambodia back in the day.

My experience too. The poster who concluded that the booze is fake because it's impossible that it could be cheaper in PP than in the States obviously is ignoring the fact that booze attracts a lot of tax in the States.

The same applies to Thailand. There is a reason booze is so cheap in Cambodia - low profit margins, cheap distribution and next to no tax on such products.

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I was browsing in Big C's liquor section yesterday, and it was really odd.... almost every bottle of regular non-Thai/imported spirits I looked at was priced right about 900 to 1000 baht... all kinds of different brands, different liquors... but the per bottle pricing was surprisingly uniform.

I guess an interesting question is... lots of people need to make visa runs to the Cambodian border to comply with Immigration requirements. If you've got to make those trips anyway, where's the best place/places at the Cambodian border to do some liquor shopping. And how's the selection for things most farang folks here might want?

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I lived in Phnom Penh for 6 years and never heard about fake name brand booze. (Unlike India where it's a huge problem.)

The difference is that there are no taxes applied at any point in it's journey to market, and the retailers sell at extremely low profit margins. One of my clients was a large beer manufacturer and when we would go out into the countryside to visit retailers the usual margin on a 24 bottle box of beer was 1000 riel. (25 cents US) This is pretty standard for all retailers there. (A Khmer friend of mine worked as an accountant for a Chinese electronics company. Average profit on a "ghetto blaster" type stereo - 2000 riels, or 50 cents US.)

Cambodian are incredibly adept at getting stuff into the market cheaply and quickly using local channels. In the 90s we would regularly get the new Beaujolais before it was even legally available in France, and at a cheaper price. (No, they were not making fake Beaujolais.)

A lot of the hard booze has spent time sitting in containers on the dock in Singapore.

I know of at least one very famous bar in BKK getting cheap designer booze through Cambodia back in the day.

My experience too. The poster who concluded that the booze is fake because it's impossible that it could be cheaper in PP than in the States obviously is ignoring the fact that booze attracts a lot of tax in the States.

The same applies to Thailand. There is a reason booze is so cheap in Cambodia - low profit margins, cheap distribution and next to no tax on such products.

Thanks bendix that about sums it up. The cost of living is much lower in Cambodia than Thailand, some things are more expensive in Cambodia like Electricity, LPG, Petrol & Diesel.

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If your in Phnom Penh cigarettes and alcohol can be bought very cheap at Bayon Supermarket and ThaiHuit Supermarket on Monivong Blvd. Coffee beans are very cheap also at $6 to $8. a kilo compared to Thailand over $20. a kilo. I was buying Imported Australian Rib eye beef for $16. a kilo, I saw it at tops last week for $53. a kilo, big difference. When I moved back to Thailand a few months ago I was shocked at the cost of living in Thailand now.

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If your in Phnom Penh cigarettes and alcohol can be bought very cheap at Bayon Supermarket and ThaiHuit Supermarket on Monivong Blvd. Coffee beans are very cheap also at $6 to $8. a kilo compared to Thailand over $20. a kilo. I was buying Imported Australian Rib eye beef for $16. a kilo, I saw it at tops last week for $53. a kilo, big difference. When I moved back to Thailand a few months ago I was shocked at the cost of living in Thailand now.

I guess this should be counterbalanced though by pointing out that supermarkets in PP are nowhere near as advanced as those in Thailand - every time I go into a supermarket in Cambodia, they always seem a bit sad and depressing.

Villa would make a killing if they opened in PP.

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Bendix, that wasn't my experience at all with the supermarkets I visited last month in PP.

The Bayon Supermarket has been relocated to the first couple floors of a relatively new tall office building, and was a very nice shopping experience in the new location.

Likewise, I visited a couple of Lucky Supermarkets, one in the Soriya Center and another at the City Mall near the Olympic Stadium, and both were perfectly adequate supermarkets even in a non-Cambodia setting.

Things are changing and evolving there quickly... But yes, a market like Villa probably would do very well there.

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I was browsing in Big C's liquor section yesterday, and it was really odd.... almost every bottle of regular non-Thai/imported spirits I looked at was priced right about 900 to 1000 baht... all kinds of different brands, different liquors... but the per bottle pricing was surprisingly uniform.

I guess an interesting question is... lots of people need to make visa runs to the Cambodian border to comply with Immigration requirements. If you've got to make those trips anyway, where's the best place/places at the Cambodian border to do some liquor shopping. And how's the selection for things most farang folks here might want?

Keep in mind that you can bring only one liter per person though. ;)

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Keep in mind that you can bring only one liter per person though. wink.png

Yes, of course, that's true, at least according to the regulations on the book.

So not like I'm going to make a trip specifically for that purpose. But if the wife and I happen to be traveling, it certainly makes sense to bring back two liters or so of something nice.

I'd never done that before living in the U.S., except I think some beer and/or tequila from Mexico a long time back. But living here in Thailand and its over-dutied market for non-local spirits, it absolutely makes sense if traveling to Cambodia, Singapore or similar places.

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Thanks for the replies on the internet. Anyone familiar with landline internet? What kind of speeds can one order/expect (Mbps down/up) and cost. What documents are required? BTW, is there anything extra required for foreigners to signup for any type of utility/service besides your passport?

..............

That's correct, you get a big blue extension of stay sticker (3 months, 6 months or 12 months). I quoted the service price for 12 months at $280. The actual fee is something like $275 and visa dudes charge anywhere from about $280 to $3## for the service. 12 month extensions are always mutliple entry, not sure about the others. It's all perfectly legit and official.

.........

The 12 month extension is for business? can business be conducted on this visa?

Besides cost, is there any other advantages for having a long-stay visa for navigating around? For example, bank account in thailand may be easier when you can show a non-imm vs only a visa exempt stamp.

Nice info - I fully agree about the Cambodian's command of English and their attitude to service compared to Thais. It puts the Thais to shame really, esp. in BKK. Same with the Laos. I think it's because the Thais don't need to try hard enough. Your report is very practical - any comments on local/western food and accommodation and tourist sites quality/price?

................

Re the question about western food, Emily and my posts above have touched on various individual places and the general trends. In Phnom Penh, there's certainly a wealth of choices at prices ranging from affordable to pricey, whatever suits your budget. I think a foreigner could easily manage to eat quite well there without breaking the bank by any means. But there are gaps...as I said above, I saw nary a McDonald's or a Starbucks in PP... Doesn't bother me any, but might be important to some people.

About accommodation, did you mean hotel/tourist type places...or apartment/condo type places for a resident?

I am also equally interested in the long-stay type of guesthouses/apartment options. It appears that there is no $100 studio-type box options without air, mini balcony a plus for hanging clothes?

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I'd sure like to gain some understanding of how Cambodia, starting from how far it had fallen years ago with the Khmer Rouge and civil war, now has managed to gain such a seemingly good/large population of young people, at least in PP, who have become quite conversant in English. It does indeed seem to put Thailand to shame. Whatever recipe the Cambodians used to achieve that, the Thais and their dubious education system (and not just in regards to English) ought to seriously consider importing it.




The recipe Cambodia used to get such good English skills, is grinding poverty and despair as a result of civil war and genocide. Learning English is a way out, so they work hard to learn it.

When I was in Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, I was amazed that even the motorcy guys could speak decent English. After talking with them, many of them could speak Thai too. One I had for 3 days had worked in construction in Thailand, he learned Thai on the job and attended English classes as well, and bought a motorcycle on returning home and started offering tours of Angkor Wat. He spoke better English than some Thais that have degrees from America do


I think a lot of it is the same reason why it seemed so interesting that Jamaica would compete in a bobsleding race. It is always amazing to see people that can do so much with so little. Although I do not personally care if English is well spoken by the locals. As I am a guest, it's more of a bonus. As a tourist it would be of interest for some of the major modes of transportation and some destinations of interest if a few of the staffers speak it.


I am currently in PP for a month and concur with everything previously said. I am impressed with the wide streets and general cleanliness.
The locals tell me that power is very expensive here though, but I am not in a position to verify.
I think I will not visit Thailand as often after this.



Yes Electricity is expensive compared to Thailand....and many blackouts in Sihanoukville.


In the spirit of keeping the thread accurate, can someone post some numbers? How much baht or USD per "unit" (Kilowatt) for electric. In thailand, it is appx 3.7ish baht/unit with vat. And how often do they have blackouts? Are they scheduled or do they just happen? edit: It seems that phuketrichard answered this question. About $.25/unit.

Do they have electronic mall or something that mimics the likes of Pantip to suit computer needs? Is a warranty pretty much out of the question?

Thanks guys. Been following the email updates, but havent had a chance to post in a while.

edit: surprisingly, no one has talked about the banking situation. (Opening account). From TallJonny's initial reports, it doesn't seem like they have a good banking structure if atms are difficult to find.

edit 2: forgot to ask about renting motorbike. Although it appears that tuk-tuk/taxi is already reasonably priced, I still like my own transportation for longer visits.

Edited by 4evermaat
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Keep in mind that you can bring only one liter per person though. wink.png

Yes, of course, that's true, at least according to the regulations on the book.

So not like I'm going to make a trip specifically for that purpose. But if the wife and I happen to be traveling, it certainly makes sense to bring back two liters or so of something nice.

I'd never done that before living in the U.S., except I think some beer and/or tequila from Mexico a long time back. But living here in Thailand and its over-dutied market for non-local spirits, it absolutely makes sense if traveling to Cambodia, Singapore or similar places.

Do The thai officials actually check at the land borders how much alcohol you have? The land borders are generally very lax, although I have not yet hopped over to Cambodia.

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I am also equally interested in the long-stay type of guesthouses/apartment options. It appears that there is no $100 studio-type box options without air, mini balcony a plus for hanging clothes?

The Phnom Penh Post has an online classified ads section with apartment rental listings... Based on what others here have reported compared to what I read in their classifieds when I was in PP recently, I'd guess their listings tend to skew toward the higher end prices of the market there... Since people are taking out ads in the paper to publicize their properties.

http://www.phnompenhpost.com/index.php?option=com_adsmanager&page=show_category&catid=25&order=0&expand=0&Itemid=497

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edit: surprisingly, no one has talked about the banking situation. (Opening account). From TallJonny's initial reports, it doesn't seem like they have a good banking structure if atms are difficult to find.

We did have some discussion about banking earlier in this thread. My original comments were the banking system there was nowhere near as broad as Thailands, nor was their presence of ATMs.

That's not the same thing as saying a farang would have trouble doing banking there. Others later in this thread reported its no problem for farangs to open bank accounts there.

And although one of the larger banking players there, ANZ, has a $5 fee for out-of-network ATM card withdrawals (not unlike Thailand), it turns out Cambodia also has its equivalent of AEON in Thailand, that being the Canadia Bank there, which doesn't charge any fee for foreign card ATM withdrawals. I used their ATM successfully during my visit.

And in reading some banking threads in the Khmer440 forum that's mentioned above in this thread, I saw folks there bemoaning that Canadia Bank is the only banking player among the Cambodian banks that doesn't charge a fee for ATM withdrawals.

So overall, it would seem, their situation is not terribly unlike Thailand, except in that banks and ATMs don't seem to be nearly as omnipresent there as they are here. One other thing.. I didn't catch any big complaint about farangs there being denied new bank accounts because of lacking a work permit...unlike Thailand.

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edit: surprisingly, no one has talked about the banking situation. (Opening account). From TallJonny's initial reports, it doesn't seem like they have a good banking structure if atms are difficult to find.

We did have some discussion about banking earlier in this thread. My original comments were the banking system there was nowhere near as broad as Thailands, nor was their presence of ATMs.

That's not the same thing as saying a farang would have trouble doing banking there. Others later in this thread reported its no problem for farangs to open bank accounts there.

And although one of the larger banking players there, ANZ, has a $5 fee for out-of-network ATM card withdrawals (not unlike Thailand), it turns out Cambodia also has its equivalent of AEON in Thailand, that being the Canadia Bank there, which doesn't charge any fee for foreign card ATM withdrawals. I used their ATM successfully during my visit.

And in reading some banking threads in the Khmer440 forum that's mentioned above in this thread, I saw folks there bemoaning that Canadia Bank is the only banking player among the Cambodian banks that doesn't charge a fee for ATM withdrawals.

So overall, it would seem, their situation is not terribly unlike Thailand, except in that banks and ATMs don't seem to be nearly as omnipresent there as they are here. One other thing.. I didn't catch any big complaint about farangs there being denied new bank accounts because of lacking a work permit...unlike Thailand.

With Canadia Bank the limit of W/D at the ATM is $800. If you need more you can go into the bank & use your card to draw more out. I would usually take out $2,000. (Passport Needed) at a time then deposit it into my Canadia Bank A/C without leaving the building for security reasons.

All you will need to open an A/C is passport, copy of lease from LL or a letter from your Land Lord. Also unlike Thailand Canadia Bank pay a good interest rate on saving A/C, Best to go to their H.Q in Monivong.

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I am also equally interested in the long-stay type of guesthouses/apartment options. It appears that there is no $100 studio-type box options without air, mini balcony a plus for hanging clothes?

The Phnom Penh Post has an online classified ads section with apartment rental listings... Based on what others here have reported compared to what I read in their classifieds when I was in PP recently, I'd guess their listings tend to skew toward the higher end prices of the market there... Since people are taking out ads in the paper to publicize their properties.

http://www.phnompenh...nd=0&Itemid=497

This is a good starting point to find a place to rent:

http://goo.gl/Se4uQ

Another good way to do it, find an area you like, then hire a motodop to take you around that area and look for the "For rent" signs.

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Good Places can be found, as always its not what you know but who you know.

I had a 134 S.M apt 2 Bedrooms, three Bath rooms, a large living area a very large Kitchen a private balcony full width of the building, 2 K west of The Central Market, Military Security was included. $250. a month plus Elect & water, cable TV free. The building was only 2 years old when I moved into it, a friend in the military got it for me.

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Keep in mind that you can bring only one liter per person though. wink.png

Yes, of course, that's true, at least according to the regulations on the book.

So not like I'm going to make a trip specifically for that purpose. But if the wife and I happen to be traveling, it certainly makes sense to bring back two liters or so of something nice.

I'd never done that before living in the U.S., except I think some beer and/or tequila from Mexico a long time back. But living here in Thailand and its over-dutied market for non-local spirits, it absolutely makes sense if traveling to Cambodia, Singapore or similar places.

Do The thai officials actually check at the land borders how much alcohol you have? The land borders are generally very lax, although I have not yet hopped over to Cambodia.

Sometimes its a lottery.

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Electricity Etc: The place I had the Land lady was not greedy, so I paid at the local rate of 740 reil per unit for Elect. Some places will charge you between 1,000. & 1,500. reil per unit. I forget what the rate was for water but for my large apt I paid about $4. a month.

Cable TV is very cheap usually about $5. a month.

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And that in nearly a decade of traveling back and forth many times per year, I've never been searched or scanned once.

Sure. 1,000 times no problem, the next time you get arrested. You know the risks of smuggling alcohol, please don't recommend any illegal activities on an open forum.

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And that in nearly a decade of traveling back and forth many times per year, I've never been searched or scanned once.

Sure. 1,000 times no problem, the next time you get arrested. You know the risks of smuggling alcohol, please don't recommend any illegal activities on an open forum.

Protip: You will not get arrested for bringing in 2 bottles of wine instead of 1, you will get "taxed" and allowed to bring it in. If someone thinks they can haul enough liquor in to qualify for actually importing in any meaningful way (ignore the silly legal pedantry for a moment) without some official arrangement then that person deserves to be stopped at customs and searched, heh.

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Lots of questions

Internet

My work is online, so I'm beyond obsessed with not just availability, but quality, latency and throughput in usage. What I wrote about this earlier is roughly accurate, though I was a bit unilateral. I was told that landline internet starts around $40 a month, but everyone I knew paid $80 a month for some high-end package. I can't give you those goofy DSLReports numbers all the forum wizards obsess over, but in practical terms the internet in Phnom Penh to be quite speedy. I was easily capable of streaming international video content in high definition and so on. You'll experience a bit of latency and your ping to other countries will be about like Thailand, but the actual throughput is plenty high for working online (unless you're working with tons of high quality video editing or something). 3G internet was really speedy too, on the top provider in town (Mobitel/cellcard), though it had a tendency to just drop signal for 5-10 minutes at a time once or twice a day sometimes. Not sure about documents required for utilities. For banks, for example, they're supposed to require a work permit, but in reality it's a lot like Thailand in that you can get an account with just a long-term visa if you catch the right person at the counter.

Long-Term Visa

The 12 month Ordinary visa works similarly to a Non-Imm B in Thailand, granting you permission to conduct certain business-related activities, but not to work. In reality, no one is checking on you in Cambodia and the only way the issue even comes up is if you open a phsyical business or openly compete with people. If you're making deals with friends for some consulting jobs or if all your work is remote then it's not an issue. The advantage to having a long-term visa for navigating around is pretty much what you alluded to about Thailand - and, of course, since it's so cheap and it's multiple entry, if you plan to travel a lot it's handy.

Super-Cheap Accommodations

There are plenty of options at the $100/sub-$100 level if that's what you need, especially as you move out away from the city center. There are even a number of ratty rooms for rent in that range in the city center itself.

Banking

I spoke to it before I thought, but basically it's like Thailand. A friend recommended UCB if you don't have a work permit or a utility bill or landlord letter or anything and that proved to be good advice. As I mentioned, Acleda's got the best national coverage while ANZ is reportedly considered the best for business banking (but also noted for gouging customers).

Computer Parts

Their closest equivalent (and it's no Pantip) is the IT Mall at Canadia Tower which is actually pretty well-done all things considered. Google it up for web sites and images.

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Emily, thanks for all your good and informative contributions to this thread... Since you seem to be well versed with both Thailand and Cambodia, I was curious if you might comment on the general status and profiles of the Army and the police in Cambodia, as compared to their Thai counterparts?

For both the police and the Army, what kind of role do they play there in day-to-day life...and from a farang's perspective, are they folks you're happy to see or best to be avoided?

I don't need to go into any detail here about what kind of reputations the Thai police and military have, each different in their own unique and disheartening ways.... I'm wondering if the Cambodians make the Thais look good or bad by comparison...

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Thanks emily and others for their accurate inputs. For mobile internet, what are the Mhz bands that are used for 3G? For example, in thailand, AIS uses 900Mhz and DTAC/True H/MyCat uses 850Mhz and i think ToT uses 2100. Malaysia looked like 2100 was standard 3G band for all the carriers.

I cant think of anythin.....

Language courses. Khmer. How much appx and if you have any experience with freelance teachers or is it best to go to a good school and learn. Is it worth it? I have a funny feeling it would be worth it for long stay.

Emily, thanks for all your good and informative contributions to this thread... Since you seem to be well versed with both Thailand and Cambodia, I was curious if you might comment on the general status and profiles of the Army and the police in Cambodia, as compared to their Thai counterparts?For both the police and the Army, what kind of role do they play there in day-to-day life...and from a farang's perspective, are they folks you're happy to see or best to be avoided?

I don't need to go into any detail here about what kind of reputations the Thai police and military have, each different in their own unique and disheartening ways.... I'm wondering if the Cambodians make the Thais look good or bad by comparison...

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