Tpi M200

[h90]

Instead of real concrete I received TPI M200.

Has anyone the the Data Sheet for it, specially the strength, as I will make a pretty fragile structure with it that should be able to be very strong.

[thatguy]

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=th&u=http://www.tpipolene.co.th/thai/m200.html&sa=X&ei=ASXgT-qRK4yC8QTTxYD_DA&ved=0CGIQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3DTPI%2BM200%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1C1_____enUS439US440%26prmd%3Dimvns

looks like patching plaster or something. I didn't check all the google results

[h90]

http://translate.goo...S440&prmd=imvns

looks like patching plaster or something. I didn't check all the google results

that link does not work for me, but I found:

Finished cement is generally used for patching. For brick walls plastered. Or concrete

blocks. Both within and outside the building. The Certificate. TIS .1776-2542 (CD General) to absorb the extra features. Applied to reduce the fracture and the pattern of sesame. The walls are peeling off. And contraction after the wax.

What is patching? Repair job?

patching, brick walls and concrete blocks means basically everything??

But how strong is it in compare to other concrete?

[Kwasaki]

http://translate.goo...S440&prmd=imvns

looks like patching plaster or something. I didn't check all the google results

that link does not work for me, but I found:

Finished cement is generally used for patching. For brick walls plastered. Or concrete

blocks. Both within and outside the building. The Certificate. TIS .1776-2542 (CD General) to absorb the extra features. Applied to reduce the fracture and the pattern of sesame. The walls are peeling off. And contraction after the wax.

What is patching? Repair job?

patching, brick walls and concrete blocks means basically everything??

But how strong is it in compare to other concrete?

I believe that to be a additive, why don't you just use the correct concrete strength for the application to what you are doing. ???

CONCRETE MIXES, STRENGTHS.

The strongest mix is usually 7 bags of Portland to each cu.M.

Pool concrete (and rendering) must have a waterproofing agent added. I specify SILKA which costs 600 baht for a 22 litre drum. You add 0.42 litres to every 100 kg of cement powder. There is a Thai equivalent called ATM and only costs half - this does not mean it is inferior, but I prefer, for the tiny extra cost (22 litre is enough for a 4 x 10 pool) to err on the side of caution and recommend an international brand.

The engineering term C-20 is a mix of concrete that has a compressive strength of 20 kilo-newton’s per square millimeter.

The VERY approximate quantities of materials used to generate 1m³ of a C20 (1.2.3.4).

* Ordinary Portland cement 350 kg Fine aggregate (sand) - 700 kg

* Coarse Aggregate (gravel) - 1100 kg Water - 190 kg (190 litres)

So lets say you want to mix a bag of cement at a time, quite easy :-.

1 bag of 50kg cement.

Fine dry aggregate ( sand ) 100kg.

Coarse dry Aggregate (gravel) 155 kg.

Water…190 kg = ( 190 litres ).

Further to this when they are talking “steng” specs, aprox steng counts can be about 40 for 1 bag of 50kg cement, e.g. 280 “steng” = 7 bag mix for concrete maximum strength.

Above ground floors :- 180 "Steng" Cement: TPI Grade 199 "Green" (usually poured over pre-stressed concrete floor / ceiling slabs (literally: plank concrete).

Above ground columns / beams :-210 "Steng" Cement: Tiger Brand "Green".Boon Kiow.

Swimming pools :- 1 - 2 m in depth maximum : 240 "Steng" Cement: TPI Grade 299 "Red" Boon Daeng Portland or Nok Insi Brand: Diamond Pesch.

Maximum strength :- (strongly recommended for anything approaching 2 m depth pools) : 280 "Steng" Cement: Nok Insi Brand, Diamond Pesch

If the brands stated above are not available, be sure you are getting an equivalent.

There is often an international cement spec printed on each bag to verify this.

Many people make the mistake of letting the concrete dry too quickly and added extra water also not leaving it to harden for the correct time.

Edited June 19, 2012 by Kwasaki

[h90]

http://translate.goo...S440&prmd=imvns

looks like patching plaster or something. I didn't check all the google results

that link does not work for me, but I found:

Finished cement is generally used for patching. For brick walls plastered. Or concrete

blocks. Both within and outside the building. The Certificate. TIS .1776-2542 (CD General) to absorb the extra features. Applied to reduce the fracture and the pattern of sesame. The walls are peeling off. And contraction after the wax.

What is patching? Repair job?

patching, brick walls and concrete blocks means basically everything??

But how strong is it in compare to other concrete?

I believe that to be a additive, why don't you just use the correct concrete strength for the application to what you are doing. ???

CONCRETE MIXES, STRENGTHS.

The strongest mix is usually 7 bags of Portland to each cu.M.

Pool concrete (and rendering) must have a waterproofing agent added. I specify SILKA which costs 600 baht for a 22 litre drum. You add 0.42 litres to every 100 kg of cement powder. There is a Thai equivalent called ATM and only costs half - this does not mean it is inferior, but I prefer, for the tiny extra cost (22 litre is enough for a 4 x 10 pool) to err on the side of caution and recommend an international brand.

The engineering term C-20 is a mix of concrete that has a compressive strength of 20 kilo-newton’s per square millimeter.

The VERY approximate quantities of materials used to generate 1m³ of a C20 (1.2.3.4).

* Ordinary Portland cement 350 kg Fine aggregate (sand) - 700 kg

* Coarse Aggregate (gravel) - 1100 kg Water - 190 kg (190 litres)

So lets say you want to mix a bag of cement at a time, quite easy :-.

1 bag of 50kg cement.

Fine dry aggregate ( sand ) 100kg.

Coarse dry Aggregate (gravel) 155 kg.

Water…190 kg = ( 190 litres ).

Further to this when they are talking “steng” specs, aprox steng counts can be about 40 for 1 bag of 50kg cement, e.g. 280 “steng” = 7 bag mix for concrete maximum strength.

Above ground floors :- 180 "Steng" Cement: TPI Grade 199 "Green" (usually poured over pre-stressed concrete floor / ceiling slabs (literally: plank concrete).

Above ground columns / beams :-210 "Steng" Cement: Tiger Brand "Green".Boon Kiow.

Swimming pools :- 1 - 2 m in depth maximum : 240 "Steng" Cement: TPI Grade 299 "Red" Boon Daeng Portland or Nok Insi Brand: Diamond Pesch.

Maximum strength :- (strongly recommended for anything approaching 2 m depth pools) : 280 "Steng" Cement: Nok Insi Brand, Diamond Pesch

If the brands stated above are not available, be sure you are getting an equivalent.

There is often an international cement spec printed on each bag to verify this.

Many people make the mistake of letting the concrete dry too quickly and added extra water also not leaving it to harden for the correct time.

The problem is they bought the wrong cement already. But I fixed that problem already by making it the double thickness and it will do the job.

(we are doing some concrete work for the next flood. As company some staff are doing it when we have less order or when a machine brakes down (which is pretty often), no one of us knows anything about it, but I read two books. I mix the concrete for maximum hardness, but unfortunately everything I do looks like a German bunker and once it is hard you can't knock it down anymore hahahaha. So what we do here is a mix of Monty Python and stan laurel.)