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Artist Neighborhood In Bkk?


bangkokjase

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You should check out Da Overstay (google it or PM me for details) its a huge ex-brothel warehouse place where artists and musicians come together. You can stay there also for a small price and they have regular nights on. If theres no nights on there is usually a bunch of artists or musicians just making art and music and chilling out together. It's got an artistic squat like vibe to it and the electrics in the place look dangerous but some of the artwork (graffiti, paintings, all sorts) are amazing!

http://www.kohspot.com/bangkok/happenings/the-overstay-a-bangkok-creative-space/

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Will def do. I plan to arrive early November.

But to the OP - I personally would be very interested in what you find if/when you come here, so please don't let the old gits put you off, please do come back and report OK? You can just do a search for this thread and resurrect it down the road rather than starting a new one.

Look forward to hearing more about your artistic adventures. . .

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Def on my list, thanks.

You should check out Da Overstay (google it or PM me for details) its a huge ex-brothel warehouse place where artists and musicians come together. You can stay there also for a small price and they have regular nights on. If theres no nights on there is usually a bunch of artists or musicians just making art and music and chilling out together. It's got an artistic squat like vibe to it and the electrics in the place look dangerous but some of the artwork (graffiti, paintings, all sorts) are amazing!

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Thanks dddave...very helpful indeed. Just the sort of creative community I'm looking for...especially the movie production studios and cafe culture. Your space sounds perfect.

There is an area near Lad Phrow called "Town in Town" that while somewhat gentrified, has also become one of the more artistic areas of Bangkok. It is a center for TV and movie production with many studios, both small and large. Since those businesses attract talented people in many artistic professions; photographers, designers, musicians, ect., there has developed a strong creative community centering around a sort of "Cafe Culture" with a wide variety of small coffee shops, many showing local artist's work centered on various artistic themes. One of my fav's is the "Ukulele Cafe", the name says it all.

While that area is somewhat "upscale", the surrounding working class areas of Lad Phrow and Payhon Yaotine

will certainly have the kind of space you seek; probably an upper floor of a joined double shophouse where the walls have been knocked through.

I live in what could be called a loft style room, 70 sq/m with 4 meter ceilings. It's a great space and I love it but it is VERY expensive to air condition.

Good luck.

Edited by bangkokjase
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Thanks dddave...very helpful indeed. Just the sort of creative community I'm looking for...especially the movie production studios and cafe culture. Your space sounds perfect.

There is an area near Lad Phrow called "Town in Town" that while somewhat gentrified, has also become one of the more artistic areas of Bangkok. It is a center for TV and movie production with many studios, both small and large. Since those businesses attract talented people in many artistic professions; photographers, designers, musicians, ect., there has developed a strong creative community centering around a sort of "Cafe Culture" with a wide variety of small coffee shops, many showing local artist's work centered on various artistic themes. One of my fav's is the "Ukulele Cafe", the name says it all.

While that area is somewhat "upscale", the surrounding working class areas of Lad Phrow and Payhon Yaotine

will certainly have the kind of space you seek; probably an upper floor of a joined double shophouse where the walls have been knocked through.

I live in what could be called a loft style room, 70 sq/m with 4 meter ceilings. It's a great space and I love it but it is VERY expensive to air condition.

Good luck.

Welcome to ThaiVisa. You will get some very helpful replies on here but, as you've probably noticed, you'll also get the usual suspects that post negative comments all day long. Just ignore them. They don't seem to know of anything outside the prostitute areas and so think that nothing else exists. I have seen similar comments umpteen times where they claim something doesn't exists because this is Thailand, etc. Hope you find what you're looking for and hope you enjoy your time in Thailand. It's a great country with many wonderfully friendly people. I love it here.

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I don't think you need to (or can) hit the jackpot right off the bat. I would move here first to some neighborhood well-connected transportwise (Victory Monument, Thong Lor, pretty much any place on the BTS) on a short-term lease and look.

This is a big city with a heckuva lot going on. And the local art scene is surely spread all over. You have to explore to find your own sweet spot. One thing I can tell you though is that you won't regret moving here.

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Interesting question from the OP. My first reaction was like many posters - wrong city for an art district - but as others have said there are early signs scattered around the city. My vote goes for Ekammai which has a student population, some nice cafes, unusual independent shops (and a Big C!) and interesting if a pretentious Thai clubs.

But buying or renting a 'loft style' top floor of a shop house will not be simple. The expected route for a foreigner is to buy a purpose built condo or rent an apartment. Hats off to the posters who've bought something unusual. I've been looking for a simple, local style flat that I can convert by knocking through walls etc, but it's tough to find and harder to buy. Every agent I've spoken to just shows me endless 'little box' condos and my Thai friends think I'm crazy. "No security, no pool, no gym, foreigners cannot buy" etc.

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Yo man seems like a lot of negativity up in here but I think everyone makes valid points...to answer your question specifically...yes there is a "SHOPHOUSE" avaialable for rent right now on ratchada soi 3. now this is basically set up like this...A ground floor that opens up to the street...you will see all kinds a businesses in here...motorbike repair, tv repair, err anything repair, to like buddha and king stuff for sale, to like mimi sweat shops...its also can be a food shop, a mini mart etc etc...there will be 3 to 4 more floors on top of this...and it is straight thai style living...row houses...ya one is for rent for sure I just saw it yesterday on my way home....prolly like 15 to 20k bht a month....stay in touch man you sound like a cool farang to meet.

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But buying or renting a 'loft style' top floor of a shop house will not be simple. The expected route for a foreigner is to buy a purpose built condo or rent an apartment. Hats off to the posters who've bought something unusual. I've been looking for a simple, local style flat that I can convert by knocking through walls etc, but it's tough to find and harder to buy. Every agent I've spoken to just shows me endless 'little box' condos and my Thai friends think I'm crazy. "No security, no pool, no gym, foreigners cannot buy" etc.

Once you've decided on an area, locating a reasonable house to rent is simply a question of time and energy, not difficulty or expense. A rolling three-year lease should make the cost of necessary improvements worthwhile.

In this case seems like one would be searching for a double-front shophouse from the get-go, negotiate an option to sublease and probably get most of the overall rent back on the commercial downstairs. Ideally it would have a separate entrance for getting upstairs from the outside without going through the shop premises. If you've got five floors to play with (3-4 is more common) then of course you could actually split it up into separate flats or just take on roommates if that suits your lifestyle. The key of course is good relations with the landlord, and their trust that you will leave the property more valuable than when you moved in.

Away from the farang ghettos, flash upscale neighborhoods etc. B25-40K would be a reasonable range for this, but quite a bit more if it's fronting onto a main road with lots of foot traffic - much better values back down the little sois.

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First off, the whole western bohemian artist lifestyle in it's current form is more of a fashion/style as apposed to a way of life. Back in the 70's and 80's artists inhabited rooms above shops or large abandoned warehouse lofts/studios because they were cheap. At some point during the early part of 2000's the "loft/studio" apartment became a fad. All of a sudden old factories were being compartmentalized into open floor plan room apartments, and new places were being built to duplicate the same look. All you had to do was construct four walls, throw in a kitchen, a faux brick wall, bathroom, leave the air con ducts exposed, and a bare concrete floor and you had a "loft" that you could sell or rent for a premium.

So OP if you're looking for this "style" you'll be hard pressed to find it here in mass as this fad is just starting to catch on but like any fad that's cool in the west Thailand will adopt it sooner or later. Second hand and vintage furnishings/fashions are becoming more and more popular and I have seen a few "lofts" for rent but they are more of the manufactured look. You can easily find rooms available above shops that you could transform into loft style places if you have an eye for it.

If you're looking for a truly bohemian lifestyle then Thailand has this to offer in spades. There are countless cheap, and basic accommodations all over the city and some are even above shops. There is a large community of foreigners living here who live this way. They may not be painters but some can play basic songs on an acoustic guitar. Food can be had very cheap and generally drugs are included in the package.

As far as an art scene goes, up until just recently Thai culture didn't exactly promote creativity and there are very few Thai's that want to buy truly creative artwork. Walk into almost any home and the only art hanging on the wall are paintings of the royal family, the homeowners family, or Buddhist images. The artists who created these have talent but it's more technical than creative. The expressionist artwork that we see in the west is almost nonexistent here because when Thai's are young and show an affinity for art they generally are learning to be more technical artists using proper perspective and proportions and very few master their craft using paint brushes, they prefer to use a more precise instrument like a pencil or pen. And as some have already alluded to, the majority of Thai's interested in art come from affluent families. They are allowed to "dabble" a bit when they're younger but eventually the parents push them to pursue more "practical" career paths. Some migrate toward graphic design, architecture, engineering, etc. so they never are able to develop a decent portfolio of truly artistic work. I know many young Thai's like this and in all honesty, they don't have the same care free mentality as the artists types I knew back in the states. They hang in very tight knit groups, aren't too interested in selling their creations (they really don't have to) so they usually just lend them out to friend to hang up in their random shops or businesses. This is probably why the city hasn't seen a larger area develop that is more accessible to the everyday person.

So with all of this being said, like many things in Thailand, scenes are changing slowly. I have noticed a few places opening up here and there, like small cafe's, bars, and restaurants that are starting to get that urban artsy vibe. The "graffiti as art" movement has legs here as well. IMOP it all seems a bit pretentious, like too much effort is being put into trying to be hip but since you're looking for that vibe you might want to check out the following places:

Hippie de Bar on Khao San Rd.

Shades of Retro in Thong Lo (small bar/cafe hidden down one of the soi's)

Talad Rot Fai (it's a night market that sells "hype" vintage and artsy things)

Iron Fairies Pub in Thong Lo - the epitome of artsy hype

There are more I'm just brain dead right now so I will add them as I remember.

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Nope, not interested in a designer loft, trendy shops, or pretentious upper class art students. I don't need poverty cheap at the moment, but I prefer working class surroundings - what i need is lot of space and would like a neighborhood that has thoughtful artists, writers, performers, crafters, and outsiders to hang with, preferably in a not too fashionable neighborhood. There's nothing artsy fartsy about me. Salt of the earth here. But if such a neighborhood doesn't exist then just a big space in a working class neighborhood is good. I get on good with all kinds of real folks.

I'll check out the places you mentioned.

First off, the whole western bohemian artist lifestyle in it's current form is more of a fashion/style as apposed to a way of life. Back in the 70's and 80's artists inhabited rooms above shops or large abandoned warehouse lofts/studios because they were cheap. At some point during the early part of 2000's the "loft/studio" apartment became a fad. All of a sudden old factories were being compartmentalized into open floor plan room apartments, and new places were being built to duplicate the same look. All you had to do was construct four walls, throw in a kitchen, a faux brick wall, bathroom, leave the air con ducts exposed, and a bare concrete floor and you had a "loft" that you could sell or rent for a premium.

So OP if you're looking for this "style" you'll be hard pressed to find it here in mass as this fad is just starting to catch on but like any fad that's cool in the west Thailand will adopt it sooner or later. Second hand and vintage furnishings/fashions are becoming more and more popular and I have seen a few "lofts" for rent but they are more of the manufactured look. You can easily find rooms available above shops that you could transform into loft style places if you have an eye for it.

If you're looking for a truly bohemian lifestyle then Thailand has this to offer in spades. There are countless cheap, and basic accommodations all over the city and some are even above shops. There is a large community of foreigners living here who live this way. They may not be painters but some can play basic songs on an acoustic guitar. Food can be had very cheap and generally drugs are included in the package.

As far as an art scene goes, up until just recently Thai culture didn't exactly promote creativity and there are very few Thai's that want to buy truly creative artwork. Walk into almost any home and the only art hanging on the wall are paintings of the royal family, the homeowners family, or Buddhist images. The artists who created these have talent but it's more technical than creative. The expressionist artwork that we see in the west is almost nonexistent here because when Thai's are young and show an affinity for art they generally are learning to be more technical artists using proper perspective and proportions and very few master their craft using paint brushes, they prefer to use a more precise instrument like a pencil or pen. And as some have already alluded to, the majority of Thai's interested in art come from affluent families. They are allowed to "dabble" a bit when they're younger but eventually the parents push them to pursue more "practical" career paths. Some migrate toward graphic design, architecture, engineering, etc. so they never are able to develop a decent portfolio of truly artistic work. I know many young Thai's like this and in all honesty, they don't have the same care free mentality as the artists types I knew back in the states. They hang in very tight knit groups, aren't too interested in selling their creations (they really don't have to) so they usually just lend them out to friend to hang up in their random shops or businesses. This is probably why the city hasn't seen a larger area develop that is more accessible to the everyday person.

So with all of this being said, like many things in Thailand, scenes are changing slowly. I have noticed a few places opening up here and there, like small cafe's, bars, and restaurants that are starting to get that urban artsy vibe. The "graffiti as art" movement has legs here as well. IMOP it all seems a bit pretentious, like too much effort is being put into trying to be hip but since you're looking for that vibe you might want to check out the following places:

Hippie de Bar on Khao San Rd.

Shades of Retro in Thong Lo (small bar/cafe hidden down one of the soi's)

Talad Rot Fai (it's a night market that sells "hype" vintage and artsy things)

Iron Fairies Pub in Thong Lo - the epitome of artsy hype

There are more I'm just brain dead right now so I will add them as I remember.

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That all sounds just fine. Will def check out the neighborhood. A big shophouse is at the top of my list. Will stay in touch...I'll update here when I get settled.

Yo man seems like a lot of negativity up in here but I think everyone makes valid points...to answer your question specifically...yes there is a "SHOPHOUSE" avaialable for rent right now on ratchada soi 3. now this is basically set up like this...A ground floor that opens up to the street...you will see all kinds a businesses in here...motorbike repair, tv repair, err anything repair, to like buddha and king stuff for sale, to like mimi sweat shops...its also can be a food shop, a mini mart etc etc...there will be 3 to 4 more floors on top of this...and it is straight thai style living...row houses...ya one is for rent for sure I just saw it yesterday on my way home....prolly like 15 to 20k bht a month....stay in touch man you sound like a cool farang to meet.

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You should check out Da Overstay (google it or PM me for details) its a huge ex-brothel warehouse place where artists and musicians come together. You can stay there also for a small price and they have regular nights on. If theres no nights on there is usually a bunch of artists or musicians just making art and music and chilling out together. It's got an artistic squat like vibe to it and the electrics in the place look dangerous but some of the artwork (graffiti, paintings, all sorts) are amazing!

http://www.kohspot.c...creative-space/

I thought he was describing a detention centre for people without a visa....

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Why Bangkok? From everything you have said, it sounds like you are looking for the antithesis of everything Bangkokian.

Try Athens, Barcelona, Paris, Prague. Try Buenos Aires or Melbourne. Cape Town, Manchester. Berlin.

San Francisco.... Oh

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You clearly have no idea about the Thai mindset.

Every count of your response to me is so off the mark its not even funny; it just shows how naive you are.

Come live here for a year or two and then try spouting the same bs.

Have fun in lala land, because when it comes to Thailand, thats where you are, my friend.

I lived in a tenement in one of the poorer parts of Mumbai for a year. I lived in a 10 x 10 cinder block "house" in rural nepal with only wooden shutters at the windows that the monkeys would break open while I was gone during the day and trash the place. I lived in a squatter's abandoned housing project in Ukraine. Trust me...I'm anything but "naive". And I met incredible artists in those places who struggled to do their art in excruciating poverty after long hard work days...none of them bitter and unhappy, which is what you sound like in your negative unhelpful posts here.

I am sure the place you are looking for my non-naive friend is

Khao San Road

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Nope, not interested in a designer loft, trendy shops, or pretentious upper class art students. I don't need poverty cheap at the moment, but I prefer working class surroundings - what i need is lot of space and would like a neighborhood that has thoughtful artists, writers, performers, crafters, and outsiders to hang with, preferably in a not too fashionable neighborhood. There's nothing artsy fartsy about me. Salt of the earth here. But if such a neighborhood doesn't exist then just a big space in a working class neighborhood is good. I get on good with all kinds of real folks.

I'll check out the places you mentioned.

If you're talking about Thais as opposed to foreigners, then the intersection between this group:

> thoughtful artists, writers, performers, crafters, and outsiders

and this group:

> working class

is virtually non-existent.

The concept of "working class" itself here largely equates to "rural peasant", of whom there are millions living in what you would consider tin/concrete slums, tiny houses all crammed together sois too small for a car, and most of whom didn't go to "school" much at all past say ten years old and are struggling hard just to keep up with food prices.

The "thoughtful artists, writers, performers" types are very thin on the ground here, and again I reckon would fall 95% into your pretentious rich kids set, most likely student areas are going to be the closest you'll find.

IMO

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there are obviously still plenty of artists around, and by that i mean, people who draw and color and paint creatively and what not. it is not like universities do not have an art department. but OP seems to be looking more for some kind of social scene. these thai artists i have seen do not seem to have the western style artist personality.

i am guessing as alluded to above, to get into the whole tempermental emotionally disturbed artist segment you are going to need to rub shoulders with some well to do people.

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I can't imagine what it is about my OP that triggered your interest in my motives, financials, and life history. Short version: I've travelled (not touristed) around the world, hitchhiking, trekking, boat, and train, frequently to remote places more times than I can count w/ only a small backpack. I'm no stranger to squat toilets, extreme poverty, village life, and intestinal parasites. I'm equally comfortable on a yellow brick road or a rope mountain bridge.I've lived in a corrugated sheet metal shack and a 4k a month flat and everything in between. I'm intelligent enough to attend to visa requirements. I'm moving to BKK because I've never been there and because I live my life as an adventure.

You sound really annoying.

Some quality piss-taking on this thread Pseudolus and others...cheesy.gifclap2.gifthumbsup.gif

Unfortunately, I can't stay at those trendy "warehouses" in Ratchada as I'm married wink.png

RAZZ

Edited by RAZZELL
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Nope, not interested in a designer loft, trendy shops, or pretentious upper class art students. I don't need poverty cheap at the moment, but I prefer working class surroundings - what i need is lot of space and would like a neighborhood that has thoughtful artists, writers, performers, crafters, and outsiders to hang with, preferably in a not too fashionable neighborhood. There's nothing artsy fartsy about me. Salt of the earth here. But if such a neighborhood doesn't exist then just a big space in a working class neighborhood is good. I get on good with all kinds of real folks.

I'll check out the places you mentioned.

There are places like what you're looking for all over the city but you will find that any place with a large open floor plan is going to be VERY expensive. Much like other large metropolitan cities like NYC, SF, CHI open space is a premium. A livable space that would resemble a large NYC loft would run you well over $2,000 US a month. You would also have to probably either remodel the place by adding bathrooms, kitchen, etc. to make it livable or have the owner knock down walls to open up the floor plan and combine multiple units. It's more common to find multi story 3-4 level places with each floor consisting of a small living space much like a flat. in some cases these places will have an accessible rooftop if you want to do a small garden and have a sitting area. These places don't look like much from the outside but are usually nice inside. Places like this can run $600-$1000 per month depending on the area and the owner.

A few friends of mine rented a large condo in Thong Lo, a bit of a trendy area but it's easier to find larger living spaces there. It was a huge open living space and the rent was around $1,000 a month not including utilities. Not exactly like what you're looking for but it can give you an idea.

Good luck

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Congratulations. You got a really good turnout for your post. Being an artist myself I too found the info useful. I also set up studios in exotic locations to paint (mustn't say work as it might not be allowed) and sell back west. So no competition for local artists. I also sell their work in EU.

You might consider checking out Chiang Mai. It's much quieter than BKK but you can rent a house cheaply which you can use as a studio. Depending on what you're doing It would have a yard for quick drying and a covered area to work outside.

Ubud Bali, is also good for a studio and don't forget the Islands. A studio on Koh Samui is lovely. Also Saigon, lot's of artists there.

If you're mobile enough try a few places.You can find materials everywhere.

I think you're making a great choice to do art in Asia and I wish you the very best of luck.

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there are obviously still plenty of artists around, and by that i mean, people who draw and color and paint creatively and what not. it is not like universities do not have an art department.

Entirely true, but my point remains, as very few Thais outside the top say 25% economic strata have any chance of going to university; the bottom 50% are lucky to stay in school past 15.

Ramkanghaeng is at the lower end of the spectrum, so may be worth a shot, certainly thousands of young students in the area, mostly working people attending part-time, and bound to be some "creative" types in the mix over there.

but OP seems to be looking more for some kind of social scene. these thai artists i have seen do not seem to have the western style artist personality. i am guessing as alluded to above, to get into the whole temperamental emotionally disturbed artist segment you are going to need to rub shoulders with some well to do people.

I doubt if OP is specifically looking for "temperamental" people, much less disturbed ones 8-), and in my experience those characteristics are found at all social levels, and a wide spectrum of occupational categories as well.

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"Hua Mark has the huge Ramkhamhaeng University, one of the largest in the world. It’s not one of the long established and rather exclusive Thai universities where studying entails considerable expenses but rather an institution for students from poorer families."

Check out if it has an art department or similar and likely he students will be living in the nearby area.

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there are obviously still plenty of artists around, and by that i mean, people who draw and color and paint creatively and what not. it is not like universities do not have an art department.

Entirely true, but my point remains, as very few Thais outside the top say 25% economic strata have any chance of going to university; the bottom 50% are lucky to stay in school past 15.

Ramkanghaeng is at the lower end of the spectrum, so may be worth a shot, certainly thousands of young students in the area, mostly working people attending part-time, and bound to be some "creative" types in the mix over there.

but OP seems to be looking more for some kind of social scene. these thai artists i have seen do not seem to have the western style artist personality. i am guessing as alluded to above, to get into the whole temperamental emotionally disturbed artist segment you are going to need to rub shoulders with some well to do people.

I doubt if OP is specifically looking for "temperamental" people, much less disturbed ones 8-), and in my experience those characteristics are found at all social levels, and a wide spectrum of occupational categories as well.

True, I know plenty of artists and none that could be described as ' temperamental emotionally disturbed ' .

Successful artists need to have there heads well screwed on. Vincent and Rothko wouldn't make it...

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first of all, let me extend a welcome to thaivisa to the OP and to not be discouraged in his investigations regardless of the many <deleted> on this thread that say otherwise...

I live in a country town so can't say much about BKK...but if you look around you may find what yer lookin' for...I live in a shophouse (3 adjacent) and I have a welder and a place to work and scrap metal is easy to come by and you should be able to find the same arrangement in BKK but don't expect there to be an 'artists' community like in the west...

all the best and good luck...

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I know a number of foreign artists living in Bangkok who make a living from their work. They do not sell to Thais generally, their work is sold to outside Asian markets and the west. These artists are all located in different areas. One lives at the end of soi 33 near the street of dead artists. He bought an apartment that he works in. Another guy works near the river in an old coverted warehouse / rice storage unit near Saphan Taksin. His rent is expensive but he sells paintings for a couple of hundred thousand a pop. Another guy is on the outskirts somewhere near min buri. Everytime I speak to artists in Bangkok they mention how there is no central 'scene' or area. They choose the best place for them to work and create.

My advice to the OP would be to rent an apartment and learn about the city and the language first. And unless he has a following and a queue of buyers for his work consider getting a second job here as the art world is tough all over the world and especially here. Don't count on locals buying anything contempory, because they won't. Your sales will be to 90% non-Thais, if you work is not recreations of the perfect buddha image (which is a saturated market) then things will be tough.

If the OP wants to live an artistic lifestyle then Thailand in general, and Bangkok is a great choice. If he wants to create and sell work to locals, then it may be the wrong choice.

Edited by Geekfreaklover
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The area you are looking for is Ramkhamhaeng, near the University and the other University called ACAB or something like that. Great place, lots of young people - restaurants, bars, clubs - everything open late, as that when people there come home from work etc. Everything cheap, people are openminded, you will find a lot of young people interested in playing music.

About artists, i have to agree a little bit with the old farts :) People into expressing themselves through painting, music, etc. are youth's from more upper-class families. The ones from the more poor environments are more concerned with living day to day. Another thing people in the west, squatting in a old warehouse doing arts etc. they can just take care of them selfs or even get supported by their families, thats the fact in Scandinavia where i come from - here the poor kids get requests, from back home, about sending money home, even they don't have enough to support them self....

But good luck, i think you will love Bangkok - its a great city!

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