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Thai Vineyards Newest Tourist Magnets


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Thai vineyards newest tourist magnets

KHAO YAI: -- Thais are notorious shoppers for gastronomical souvenirs.

When you visit Chiang Mai, try the khao soy - a curried noodle dish popular in the north while Trang in the southern boasts the country's best mu yang or barbecued pork. Muak Lek market in the northeast is famed for its curry puffs (for reasons not altogether clear.)

A new pitstop on Thailand's national menu map is on the outskirts of Khao Yai or big mountain National Park, the country's second largest nature reserve, which has in the past two years become the best place to find a bottle or two of Thai wine.

Thailand has been experimenting with domestic wines since 1991 when the late construction magnate Chaiyudh Karnasuta decided to pursue a semi-retirement hobby by investing in a vineyard in Phu Rua valley in Loei province, 430 kilometres north of Bangkok.

The result was the unassuming Chateau de Loei, a white wine that had its international debut at the first summit of the Asia Europe Meeting (ASEM) in Bangkok in 1996.

The attending European heads of state were predictably diplomatic about the Thai plonk.

Since Chaiyudh's experiment in Loei, chosen for its higher altitude, the local industry has learned a lot, such as Thais prefer red wines to white ones, only Shiraz and Chenin Blanc grapes are suitable to Thai climate and the soil and microclimate around Khao Yai, a mere two-hour drive from Bangkok, in the northeast are just as good as the cooler northern provinces for vineyards.

Three vineyards now rim Khao Yai, including the makers of local wine brands GranMonte, Pirom and Chateau des Brumes.

All three are the result of investments made by retired or semi- retired Thai businessmen, following in the footsteps of the father of Thailand's wine industry, Chaiyudh, who was also the founder of the Italian-Thai Company, one of Thailand's leading construction companies.

"I quit my five-day a week job to work seven days a week for myself," joked Visooth Lohitnavy, while supervising wine tasting at his Monpino wine store at his GranMonte vineyard in Asoke Valley, Khao Yai.

Visooth, a former CEO of British multinational Rentokil Initial (Thailand), transformed his family-owned 40-acre farm in Asoke Valley into a vineyard in 1999.

He claims to have sold 60,000 bottles of his 2005 GranMonte stock, with 40 per cent sold directly to tourists visiting his Monpino shop and VinCotto restaurant.

"We've become another attraction for Khao Yai," said Visooth. "Mostly our visitors are middle or upper middle class coming here with their own transport."

In fact, only fairly well-heeled tourists, Thai or foreign, could afford Thai wines. An almost 300 per cent government tax levied on Thai wine keeps them beyond the price range of most Thais.

Imported wines in Thailand face nearly a 400 per cent tax, but even so many foreign brands are cheaper than Thai brands, which start in the 400 baht (10 dollars) price range.

The high tax is a major issue for the newly established Thai Wine Association, which boasts seven members including the makers of GranMonte, Pirom, Chateau des Brumes, Chateau de Loei, Chalawan (Pichit province), Mae Chan (Chiang Rai province) and Siam Winery.

"We're trying to educate the government about the healthful benefits of wine," said Visooth, who added that so far the government has turned a deaf ear to the association's appeal for lower taxes.

Until that happens, the key to the survival of Thai wineries has been through diversification into other money-spinners such as restaurants and resorts.

For instance, Visooth's neighbour the PB Valley Khao Yai Winery, maker of Pirom wine, also offers a plush resort and the Hornbill Grill, specializing in European cuisine washed down with Pirom wine.

PB winery, owned by Piya Bhirombhakdi, scion of the Singha beer brewing family, started its vineyards in 1992 with the help of German oenologist Wolfgang Schaefer.

Village Farm & Winery, another winery-cum-resort situated about 90 kilometres east of PB and GranMonte, has opted for a French flavour in an effort to market its Chateau des Brumes wine as Thailand's premium product.

Owner Virivat Cholvanich, a former senior executive of the Siam Cement Company, Thailand's leading industrial conglomerate, hires French winemaker Jacques Bacou to supervise his operation after every harvest usually in March to assure top quality.

"Germans don't know how to make good red wines," said Viravat. "Germany makes some good white wines and some white wines with red colours."

Village Farm's premium Chateau des Brumes Le Fleur, aged for 22 months in oak barrels imported from France, sells for 3,900 baht (95 dollars) at the farm and for as much as 8,000 baht at select Thai restaurants in Bangkok.

Virivat dismisses efforts by some Thai wineries to create a wine with a unique Thai flavour. "Wine is wine," said the former engineer.

--DPA 2006-10-10

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There are some interesting reds in the Alsace region, on the border with France.

As for Thai wines...........................

From what I have tasted they have a long way to go to compete in

International markets.

If they remain tied to Thai taste buds they never will.

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Imported wines in Thailand face nearly a 400 per cent tax, but even so many foreign brands are cheaper than Thai brands, which start in the 400 baht (10 dollars) price range.

The quality of Thai wines has still a long way to improve. They are about the same grade as a european 1 star wine and are sold for the price of a 4 star wine. Lets drink a 400 baht 4 star :o foreign wine.

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