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Honda Nsr 150 Repair


showtime22

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Had the engine seize on me twice before I figured it out on my SP

New crate engines both time

Turned out to be the fuel. a tank of gasahol killed my twice.

I now carry and extra tube of oil mix under the seat if I am not sure 100% on the fuel I'm getting. I also use the best injector oil I can buy

Myiton on third road and Pattaya tri (sorry on my spelling) did one and now in CM a honda dealer did the other

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I recently saw an NSR being repaired at the Mityon shop on the Third road Soi Lenkee corner while I was there ordering parts for my NSR for the second time ( first time they " forgot " to order ) They do attempt to speak English there.

Ran gasahol in my Kawasaki Leo ( 2 stroke ) for years without a sieze run my NSR on it too, think it's more to do with the 2 stroke oil delivery/quality than gasahol per say.

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Thanks and now that I think about it every time it has seized it was after putting gasohol in it and running the bike wide open. Just had the piston replaced again, pretty sure he didn't re-bore either. The guy put a bottle of 2T in the tank when I had about 1.5 liter of fuel in it on top of the full 2t tank. So now it fouls plugs and doesn't want to start and if it does it quickly dies also occasionally back fires when trying to kick start. Big headache maybe I should just get a another one and keep this one for parts.

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Piston seizures on two strokes usually caused by a too lean air/fuel mixture.

Check for intake manifold leaks with a can of WD40. On a warm engine, at idle, spray around intake and carb mounting. Any increase in idle speed means you have found your leak.

If you add more two stroke oil, you leave less room for fuel, which leans the mixture, which makes it run hot, which seizes pistons.

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I would drain the fuel tank, refill with 95 octane. Make sure 2T tank is full, and the injector pump is working correctly. Install new spark plugs.

If the 'mechanic' put that much 2T in it, no wonder it will not start - engines burn gasoline not oil.

All the 2T oil is for is to lube the crank bearings and the piston skirt as the air/fuel mixture swirls around in the crankcase, goes thru the transfer ports, is compressed and ignited by the spark plug. Engine uses ball bearings for this reason, an oily mist is sufficient lubrication.

Does the engine have good compression ?

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OK, what plug are you running? the parts lists at the dealers and the shop manual are WRONG even as a tech bulletin was issued many years ago! See attached. If you order a plug from the dealer, they may sell you the WRONG plug. Amazing AP Honda... (however, Sumet in BKK is fantastic) Wrong plug + high rpm = seized piston.

If you have the wrong plug, change it. If the correct plug, pull it & 'read' it, and post a pic of it. That plug will tell you volumes about the engine's condition/maladies. Also, you MUST bleed the oil lines after disconnection them for any reason.

ALSO, on the NSR, oil pump calibration must be done 3rd, after

1st: throttle cable slack adjustment per spec, &

2nd: power valve calibration/cable slack adjustment per spec,

This is because 1 & 2 affect #3.

Honda NSR-150SP Service Bulletins.pdf

Spark Plug reading copy.pdf

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I would drain the fuel tank, refill with 95 octane. Make sure 2T tank is full, and the injector pump is working correctly. Install new spark plugs....

Does the engine have good compression ?

concur. put octane booster in if you can't find 95. yr lil nsr will thank you for it at the track tongue.png

about compression, am having one helluva time finding a compression gauge in BKK. Anybody know a source here?

Edited by bbradsby
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Thanks and now that I think about it every time it has seized it was after putting gasohol in it and running the bike wide open.

the engine is very stout, but if you cane it, as you obviously do from the above quote, you must make sure you have a proper Fuel:air ratio, healthy cooling system, and i'd also run 95 benzine fuel & fully synthetic oil. Mobile stations carry synth 2T, as does your dealer. roadside scooter shops, I wouldnt trust the label.

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Good that ya got er running!

FYI, a bad rectifier won't keep it from starting & running, as long as the battery has a charge.... it just closes the contact between alternator and battery when voltage drops below a set figure, as well as converting alternating current to direct current that the battery needs.

Did they replace your ECU (the lil black box under the pillion seat/tail section, and it ran fine after that? if so, did you 'try to jump-charge the battery while it was connected to the wiring harness of the bike, especially while ignition switch was on? THis will likely fry both ECU and regulator.

BTW, how expensive was the ECU, and was it new or used? I may want to get a spare.

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Are you talking about the the CDI ( the black box mounted on the right side)? I had that replaced about 2 months ago 1000 Baht the old one had been cut open and modified, they used hot glue to close up the hole too.

If you have the NSR R or RR model I believe these have 2 black boxes one is a CDI the other is for the servo control unit for the powervalve servo motor, on the SP model these 2 functions are all in one box.

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The bike will start now but it dies when you open the throttle all the way. The mechanic went through the bike and said only thing left he thinks is wrong is the crank case seals are bad and 2t oil is getting into the fuel and making the spark plug covered in oil. Any suggestions

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Thanks and now that I think about it every time it has seized it was after putting gasohol in it and running the bike wide open. Just had the piston replaced again, pretty sure he didn't re-bore either. The guy put a bottle of 2T in the tank when I had about 1.5 liter of fuel in it on top of the full 2t tank. So now it fouls plugs and doesn't want to start and if it does it quickly dies also occasionally back fires when trying to kick start. Big headache maybe I should just get a another one and keep this one for parts.

I'm not sure you can get them re bored as they have a ceramic cylinder coating.

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The bike will start now but it dies when you open the throttle all the way. The mechanic went through the bike and said only thing left he thinks is wrong is the crank case seals are bad and 2t oil is getting into the fuel and making the spark plug covered in oil. Any suggestions

I think if the crank case seals are gone then it will be transmision oil leaking into the combustion chamber..you can probably see that the oil level in the sight glass is dropping...anyway crankcase seals means a total engine strip down and rebuild sad.png

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If the engine dies with a rapid opening of the throttle, I suspect carburetor / intake system. Ignition is rpm sensitive as driven by the crank-mounted ignition system.

At a guess - engine dies because the mixture leans out. Probably the same reason the engine seizes - and the same cause.

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Spark plug covered in oil? Which oil? Once had this with a TZR; needed a rebore and new piston as gear oil was leaking in from crankcase through the piston rings. Bike would run fine for 3 mins or so and then die. Take the spark plug out, clean it and it was repeat again. Plug was soaked in dark oil; not the thinner/reddish 2T. You can probably smell the difference?

Edited by MaiChai
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Yes its gear box oil not 2T. Thanks for confirming that this is the problem. The bike is still broken, I wasnt sure if that could really be the problem. So now I need to find a mechanic that I can explain this too.The last two times they just clean the carb and spark club and say its fixed so i gave up.

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Yes its gear box oil not 2T. Thanks for confirming that this is the problem. The bike is still broken, I wasnt sure if that could really be the problem. So now I need to find a mechanic that I can explain this too.The last two times they just clean the carb and spark club and say its fixed so i gave up.

Are you sure?

Sometimes it is not easy to tell once in the engine & onto the plug.

If it is in fact crankcase oil that is blowing by the rings a compression test will tell you

because the rings would be so shot the compression would be low.

If compression is good then back to fuel/oil mix & plug being the right one / heat range.

Your original statement that you seized 3 times was surely a mix or jetting problem

When that happened did they rebore your cylinder? If so they may have gone too far or not installed

proper piston/rings for new bore afterwards which could be why your getting blow by

Just some thoughts wink.png

Edited by mania
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