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What Is This Equipment Called?


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What is it used for, and how do you use it? I understand from the Thai seller that it it used to condition the soil between the rows of sugarcane for ratoon crops. He says it will work in my organic matter to the soild rather than just sit it on top and leave it there. How deep will this go, or how deep should it go? Any thoughts or comments on this? My understanding of Thai sometimes is not complete or as in depth as I would like it to be.

Thanks

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Looks like a unfinished, modified tandam disk. Doubt if it is heavy enoungh to go very deep, without adding weight to the frame , thus sinking the disks in deeper. The offsets in the disks themselves are good for ripping the soil, but this design was orginally for a tandam type or a one way type device, which were built with boxes to add weight to.

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We found for row crops that a correct spacing on a field culivator, using sweeps worked good. The only modification to the culivator was to take off those shanks which would disturb the plant rows. All you are doing is destroying weeds until the cash crop gets height enough to shade cove the ground which prevents weed growth. The process does require the driver s attention so as not to tear up the money crop growing.

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We found for row crops that a correct spacing on a field culivator, using sweeps worked good. The only modification to the culivator was to take off those shanks which would disturb the plant rows. All you are doing is destroying weeds until the cash crop gets height enough to shade cove the ground which prevents weed growth. The process does require the driver s attention so as not to tear up the money crop growing.

What is a cultivator?? Is that what Thais call a ripper? You are right about correct spacing. I am about to go to work on a filed that somebody else planted last year. Actually, 3 people worked on this field. Looks like one of them was drunk. To get a machine to put fertilizer into the ground, not just on top of it, I am down to one tooth and fertilizer delivery mechanism so that it is easy to get it in the right spot without ripping up the sugar.

I'll google the cultivator

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Many cultivators are called harrows. There is that disc harrow, a straight toothed harrow, and spring toothed harrow...

I too am have trouble looking at that "disc" as we call it. I'm used to not seeing that gap in the middle, but rather discs all the way across. Yes, a disc is good for incorporating organic matter into the soil if it's built and set up right, if the soil isn't too hard. Here's more what I'm used to seeing except that some are enormous for really big fields and tractors.

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I think that the one in the pic is not set up right yet. It is still at the store. At this particular store/dealer, they seem to sell items specific to sugarcane production. My guess is that this unit would be set up to cultivate the spaces between rows of sugarcane after it has been cut, before the next growth starts again.

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  • 1 month later...

As a new member, and a bit late in replying,we would call it a scolloped disc harrow, idea is the scolloped disc`s cut the rubbish,so it`s get buried better , but looking at this one I have my doubts when would you use it,now the ground would be to hard, to do any good ,I think. some farmers here use scolloped 3 disc plough`s to plough fields and thay make a fair job to.

What would be better, and what the farmers here in Lopburi are useing at last, are 2 leged sub soilers, which would do more good with 20 ton + of lorry and trailer going across a field, and now here more farmers are useing machines to cut the sugercain more weight there must be a pan underground which needs braking up, helps the land to breath, and helps drainage.

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The original photo is like a hiller or rowmaker that I have. The difference being that mine has a large and small full disc mounted to each leg hence producing two raised beds. Doubt it would do more than leave some drag marks on the soil now. Need to pump a lot of water on first.

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Depending on soil type, the disc as we call it might not want to sink into the soil properly. Since a typical 3 point hitch for that doesn't provide down pressure buy only lifts, a lot of farmers put weights on the disc's frame. Often they do that by building and attaching a box on top and filling it with concrete. Then the farmer can still set the depth control.

Another way to do that and "fix" all implements in one shot it to replace the 3 point top link with a 2-way hydraulic ram and a 2-way valve. Then the top link can push or pull and use the weight of the tractor. The valve has a float position when centered so that the bottom links can still raise and lower for moving it around the place.

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Depending on soil type, the disc as we call it might not want to sink into the soil properly. Since a typical 3 point hitch for that doesn't provide down pressure buy only lifts, a lot of farmers put weights on the disc's frame. Often they do that by building and attaching a box on top and filling it with concrete. Then the farmer can still set the depth control.

Another way to do that and "fix" all implements in one shot it to replace the 3 point top link with a 2-way hydraulic ram and a 2-way valve. Then the top link can push or pull and use the weight of the tractor. The valve has a float position when centered so that the bottom links can still raise and lower for moving it around the place.

I was having a day dream about this type of a setup the other day. It would be perfect. It would also make adjusting the length of that top link very easy, being able to shorten it for lifting higher , say for travelling home and lengthening it for working depth and being able to vary that depth easily. There is a control already for varying depth and then another control for allowing that depth to varying according to terrain or remain rigid with the tractor but one more ram in place of the top link would make it a perfect setup

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Depending on soil type, the disc as we call it might not want to sink into the soil properly. Since a typical 3 point hitch for that doesn't provide down pressure buy only lifts, a lot of farmers put weights on the disc's frame. Often they do that by building and attaching a box on top and filling it with concrete. Then the farmer can still set the depth control.

Another way to do that and "fix" all implements in one shot it to replace the 3 point top link with a 2-way hydraulic ram and a 2-way valve. Then the top link can push or pull and use the weight of the tractor. The valve has a float position when centered so that the bottom links can still raise and lower for moving it around the place.

I was having a day dream about this type of a setup the other day. It would be perfect. It would also make adjusting the length of that top link very easy, being able to shorten it for lifting higher , say for travelling home and lengthening it for working depth and being able to vary that depth easily. There is a control already for varying depth and then another control for allowing that depth to varying according to terrain or remain rigid with the tractor but one more ram in place of the top link would make it a perfect setup

It's a really common setup. It also allows you to level the implement if needed without getting off and doing it manually with the threaded top link. There are actually hydraulic top links so you don't have to mess around getting the ends on, etc. The tractor manual will tell you where to get the hydraulic oil/pressure - often the same place it's taken for a loader, and you can put T's in to have more than one hydraulic valve/controller setup.

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Depending on soil type, the disc as we call it might not want to sink into the soil properly. Since a typical 3 point hitch for that doesn't provide down pressure buy only lifts, a lot of farmers put weights on the disc's frame. Often they do that by building and attaching a box on top and filling it with concrete. Then the farmer can still set the depth control.

Another way to do that and "fix" all implements in one shot it to replace the 3 point top link with a 2-way hydraulic ram and a 2-way valve. Then the top link can push or pull and use the weight of the tractor. The valve has a float position when centered so that the bottom links can still raise and lower for moving it around the place.

I was having a day dream about this type of a setup the other day. It would be perfect. It would also make adjusting the length of that top link very easy, being able to shorten it for lifting higher , say for travelling home and lengthening it for working depth and being able to vary that depth easily. There is a control already for varying depth and then another control for allowing that depth to varying according to terrain or remain rigid with the tractor but one more ram in place of the top link would make it a perfect setup

It's a really common setup. It also allows you to level the implement if needed without getting off and doing it manually with the threaded top link. There are actually hydraulic top links so you don't have to mess around getting the ends on, etc. The tractor manual will tell you where to get the hydraulic oil/pressure - often the same place it's taken for a loader, and you can put T's in to have more than one hydraulic valve/controller setup.

I have another hydraulic valve and control installed already-sitting...waiting....for something to be connected to it. I'll just need to research this a little more and then go do it. Can't be expensive, all I need is the ram and a good shop to weld op the ends on it to make it usable. I know a shop out here that does excellent work....a little pricey, but very good work.

I am already a "celebrity/freakshow/sideshow" in our area with my tractor and my little 2 wheel tractor...wait till the local guys see my new setup.

Thanks for the hint..... I thought maybe I had invented something in my daydream fantasy...I guess not.....lol

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There are actually hydraulic top links so you don't have to mess around getting the ends on, etc.

Ooh..... have you seen these in Thailand?? I missed this part on my first read. I'll have to go to the parts store and start asking.

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There are actually hydraulic top links so you don't have to mess around getting the ends on, etc.

Ooh..... have you seen these in Thailand?? I missed this part on my first read. I'll have to go to the parts store and start asking.

I don't know. I could go out and buy one today at a tractor dealership in the US. I see them on ebay for about $US200+ - just the top link with ends, fittings, ram, etc. You'd need that two way valve and 4 hoses. Two hoses from the tractor to the valve, and two more from the valve to the top link/ram.

Edit: You are probably category 1 size, up to about 40 HP tractor?

Edited by NeverSure
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There are actually hydraulic top links so you don't have to mess around getting the ends on, etc.

Ooh..... have you seen these in Thailand?? I missed this part on my first read. I'll have to go to the parts store and start asking.

I don't know. I could go out and buy one today at a tractor dealership in the US. I see them on ebay for about $US200+ - just the top link with ends, fittings, ram, etc. You'd need that two way valve and 4 hoses. Two hoses from the tractor to the valve, and two more from the valve to the top link/ram.

Edit: You are probably category 1 size, up to about 40 HP tractor?

New Holland 6610 S only 250 hours on it. 90 hp . I'll check the ebay. Thank you.

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Okay. I've looked. I need it. I'll look around here first. One question though; The 2 way valve you are talking about....could you describe this a little better?? Like why I need one. How it works.

Right now on the tractor there are 2 handles with 2 valves side by side with two fittings for a hose each. I don't understand why you need a two way valve as well. The way it is, with the threaded top link, when it is on position (whatever position) the bottom links can raise and lower the equipment fine. If that top link were now hydraulic, why would I not be able to raise or lower it without this 2 way valve for the hydraulics that operate it?

90 hp Hew Holland....would that be cat 2 - 3" ram?

Thanks.

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