Thai Food For The Mind

[sabaijai]

Thai food for the mind

Roy Hamric, Express-News (Texas), February 26, 2006

CHIANG MAI (Thailand) Foreigners began visiting this sleepy city in the late 19th century when the British opened a "mountain station" to extract teak trees and other timber. During the Vietnam War, Americans found it to be a perfect spot for retreat and repose.

Today, an increasing number of its some 300 Buddhist wats, or monasteries, are drawing more and more Westerners who are forsaking the more traditional spas for introductory classes on Buddhism and meditation retreats up to 21 days long.

A popular monastery among Westerners is Wat Umong, in the foothills of Mount Doi Suthep, rising 5,478 feet above the 1,000-year-old city. "Wat" is a Thai word from the Pali-Sanskrit word meaning "dwelling for pupils and ascetics."

I explored it one day before the turn of the year. On the densely wooded monastery grounds, moss-covered, limestone sculptures of the Buddha were scattered over the grounds of the 14th century site. Small kutis -- huts that house one monk -- were bathed in yellow sunbeams filtering through the leafy canopy. The deep murmuring sound of monks chanting sutras filled the evening air.

On a pathway, blue signs with white lettering offered helpful aphorisms: "Today Is Better Than Two Tomorrows." "I have not failed -- I found ways that don't work."

Sixteen foreigners sat quietly in a red-roofed Chinese pavilion area near a two-acre pond. Nirodho Bikkhu, an Australian monk who lives in a nearby kuti, walked into the pavilion and sat down. He adjusted his brown robe and smiled.

"I would rather answer your questions and just talk. Does anyone have a question?" he asked. Moments of long silence. Finally, a young girl with bronze skin from days on the road asked: "Is reality real?"

The monk smiled.

What's wat

In the past, it took a lot of effort for Westerners to find a wat where they could receive introductory lectures on Buddhism or go on short or long meditation retreats. Like many temples, Wat Umong is rapidly expanding its offerings to Westerners.

"We will be a friend to anyone who wants to know more about Buddhism," said Songserm Bikkhu, the teaching monk who directs Wat Umong's newly opened International Buddhist Education and Meditation Practice Center, which has 17 rooms for foreigners who can choose from one to four-day retreats. The cost is a personal donation. Many Westerners give $4 to $6 a day.

Most Chiang Mai wats teach Vipasanna meditation, a system based on attention to the four foundations of mindfulness. Exercises are based on mindfulness of body and movement, mindfulness of feelings, mindfulness of mind and mindfulness of objects. In the Pali language of Southeastern Asia, vipasanna means "to see clearly."

The retreat schedule is the same at most wats: rise at 4 a.m. followed by morning chanting and meditation, breakfast, study, followed by lunch, afternoon walking and sitting meditation, a one-on-one talk with the supervising monk, rest time and evening chanting, concluded by more sitting and walking meditation. Students are encouraged to do sitting and walking meditation up to 12 hours a day.

A short distance down the road from Wat Umong is Wat Ram Poeng, built in 1451, with touches of Burmese Buddhist architecture. A popular meditation center with Asians and foreigners alike, the wat is home to the Northern Insight Vipasanna Meditation Center.

A Western woman meditates alone in front of a stupa at Wat Ram Poeng in Chiang Mai, home of the Northern Insight Meditation Center.

Eric Stirnweis of Fort Collins, Colo., was in his second week of retreat, along with other Americans and people from Sweden, Canada and France. While waiting for his daily interview with the abbot, he said he had already increased his walking and sitting meditation to about 12 hours a day.

"Here you eat, sleep and meditate -- that's it," Stirnweis said. "They push you."

At the end of the retreat period, he said, each student goes through "termination" -- a three-day period of very little sleep and constant sitting and walking meditation.The daily interviews are helpful, he said, but the practice is tough with lots of ups and downs.

"It's different -- no telephone, no e-mail, six hours of sleep a day at most, but it's a healthy focus," he said. "The abbot is definitely perceptive. I didn't even say anything one morning, and he said, 'Ah, there's much negativity here.' He seems to know you without talking to you."

Wat Ram Poeng is in the process of expanding facilities to house up to 30 foreigners.

Staying on

Frequently, foreigners who want longer retreats are sent to Wat Dhat Sri, a sister temple. It also is creating a foreigner-housing area complete with small cottages outside the wat grounds.

An American, Kathryn Chindaporn, co-directs the meditation center for foreigners with her Thai husband, Thanat.

"This is a good place for basic or long-term practice, tailored to individuals," said Chindaporn, who is from Everett, Wash. "We use the mental labeling technique. The technique is easy. You think, 'I'm taking a step with my right foot, or I'm feeling content or sad.' It's easy to use, but the practice makes it very deep."

Chindaporn said she was on her way to India in 1986 but found herself staying on in Chiang Mai to practice full-time at Wat Ram Poeng, where she took classes in Buddhist studies, learned Thai and has since translated early Thai meditation texts into English.

Laura Robbins, an English teacher from Portland, Ore., had stayed at the wat for 21 days, taking a two-day break in the middle. "It was very difficult," Robbins recalled. "I wanted to leave at least three times. ... My mind was running everywhere.

"I had some very set ideas about who I am. I found that by pushing past that I've come out being much more gentle with myself."

Getting there: Thai Airways flights from Bangkok to Chiang Mai depart hourly during the day; cost, about $75.

Wats in Chiang Mai: Wat Umong, 135 Moo 10, T. Suthep, Chiang Mai, 50200, Thailand; e-mail: [email protected] or on the Web at www.watumong.org.

Wat Ram Poeng, Northern Insight Meditation Center; Tambol Suthep, Amphur Muang, Chiang Mai, 50200, Thailand. E-mail: [email protected] or on the Web at www.watrampoeng.org

Wat Dhat Sri, Northern Insight Meditation Center, Tambon San Luang, Amphur Chomtong, Chiang Mai, 50160, Thailand. E-mail: [email protected].

source: http://www.mysanantonio.com/salife/travel/...i.1aae0272.html

[Gohonzon]

Wat Umong is one of my favourite spots in Chiang Mai. It was once a forest monastery

, but is now only on the outskirts of the city in a tranquil lakeside setting.I hope that it doesn't/hasn't become yet another tourist destination ( even if for the best of reasons ? ) as it was a very peaceful and quietly, well kept secret, i.e. known to a very few foreigners.

I once met a German monk who was residing there. I wonder if this is Songserm Bikkhu ?

Edited March 6, 2006 by Gohonzon

[Rinrada]

Keep noticing threads like .."Meditation Practice Center, which has 17 rooms for foreigners"....rather that experience the true Thai form of retreat...er why..?

When I used to travel around Khmer land and doss down in the wats for a kip it was always on a mat on the floor (yes i had a mat...lucky)at the back with no favoured treatment by the monks(didnt expect any)so whereas one would not sawdust and ashes isnt this a bit of the 5 star treatment....and not Nung Roi % .....mix with the locals....

[sabaijai]

Keep noticing threads like .."Meditation Practice Center, which has 17 rooms for foreigners"....rather that experience the true Thai form of retreat...er why..?

When I used to travel around Khmer land and doss down in the wats for a kip it was always on a mat on the floor (yes i had a mat...lucky)at the back with no favoured treatment by the monks(didnt expect any)so whereas one would not sawdust and ashes isnt this a bit of the 5 star treatment....and not Nung Roi % .....mix with the locals....

Great way to see the country ...

[Rinrada]

Keep noticing threads like .."Meditation Practice Center, which has 17 rooms for foreigners"....rather that experience the true Thai form of retreat...er why..?

When I used to travel around Khmer land and doss down in the wats for a kip it was always on a mat on the floor (yes i had a mat...lucky)at the back with no favoured treatment by the monks(didnt expect any)so whereas one would not sawdust and ashes isnt this a bit of the 5 star treatment....and not Nung Roi % .....mix with the locals....

Great way to see the country ...

Should also mention travel mostly by chopper...not a bike....MI-17/26...bells and Hawks